What makes a holiday house plant great? It should be bright, colorful, and embody the spirit of the season. Here are our top ten favorite holiday house plants. Some continue to look good through much of winter!
Author: JESSIE KEITH
Winter-Fruiting Trees for Lasting Beauty
Now that fall has passed, it is a dismal thing to look out the window and see no color. But, this does not have to be the case if you plant beautiful trees that still offer bright colorful fruits to the garden in winter. The first one everybody thinks of is holly, but there are several more that fit the bill.
American Holly
American holly (Ilex opaca, USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9) is an eastern native tree that can survive in some shade but grows and looks best in an open area with full sun. The pyramidal tree can reach up to 50-60 feet tall, so find a big place in your yard or garden to plant it. It has leathery evergreen leaves and bright red berries that turn from green to red in fall that stay on through the winter. A caveat is that it is a dioecious tree, which means that plants have either female or male flowers, never both. That means that both male and female plants are needed to produce fruit. One of the oldest and best varieties is the heavy-fruiting, ‘Jersey Princess‘, which was bred at Rutgers University. It fruits heavily and has a neat, narrow habit. A good pollinating partner is ‘Jersey Knight‘. Be aware that the leaves are very prickly, so wear thick garden gloves with gauntlet sleeves when handling them.
Yaupon Holly
The more southern sun-loving yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria, Zones 7-9) has smooth-edged leaves and female trees develop copious red berries that remain on the stems through much of winter. It is a native species that naturally exists in open coastal woods from Virginia down to Florida and across to Texas. Wild specimens can reach up to 45 feet high, on rare occasion, but generally do not exceed 25 feet. The golden-berried ‘Anna’s Choice‘ is a lovely female variety reaching 15 feet that bears lots of sunny fruits against its fine, scalloped leaves. ‘Will Flemming‘ is an unusually upright narrow male yaupon holly tree that reaches 12-15 feet. Its spring flowers will pollinate female trees, like ‘Anna’s Choice’.
American Wahoo
American wahoo (Euonymus atropurpureus, Zones 3-10) is a relative of the invasive non-native burning bush (Euonymus alatus), but in fall this non-invasive eastern native shows off exceptional pinkish-red fruits with orange inner seeds as well as purplish-red leaf color. In spring it bears purplish flowers. The multi-stemmed tree can reach up to 20 feet and looks best when planted as specimen trees in a sunny, open lawn. Well-drained, fertile soil is needed. Some stem pruning must be done to encourage an open trunk. Birds love the fruits.
Green Hawthorne
The green hawthorn (Crataegus viridis, Zones 4-7) is a small native tree that exists across much of the eastern United States. Wild specimens have large thorns up and down stems, so approach this tree with caution. ‘Winter King’ is an improved variety with spectacular red fruits in winter, profuse white flowers in spring, very few thorns, and silvery bark. The scarlet fruits (called “haws”) resemble very little apples, and technically they are edible, but most gardeners leave them to the birds. (European hawthorns (C. monogyna) are a bit larger and often used to make jams and jellies.) In fall, the leaves turn purple and scarlet, and the brilliant red fruits last well into winter. ‘Winter King’grows 15 to 20 feet tall, adapts to any kind of well-drained soil and is drought tolerant and disease resistant.
Crabapples
There are literally thousands of flowering crabapple varieties. The best flower and fruit beautifully and are very disease-resistant. One that comes highly recommended by my daughter is ‘Prairifire’ (Malus ‘Prairifire’, Zones 4-8), a highly disease-resistant variety first introduced in 1982 and developed by Dr. Daniel Dayton of the University of Illinois. It displays some of the most stunning hot-pink spring blooms against purplish-red spring leaves that turn dark green in summer and bronze-red in fall. Its fall crabapples turn bright red and are held into winter until birds pick them off. The tree reaches about 20 feet tall, needs full sun, and resistants many foliar diseases that attack crabapples. Plant it in full sun for best growth and flowering.
Click here for a full overview of how to properly plant a tree. Its steps will ensure that any tree you plant will grow beautifully in your landscape. Rich amendments, such as Black Gold Peat Moss and Garden Compost Blend, will ensure their roots will grow deeply in the first year.
Any one of these trees, or all of them, will brighten your winter landscape. I hope this has given you some plants to buy when planning for any garden additions for next season.
DIY Holiday Wreath from the Garden
Homemade wreath making can be expensive if you invest in pricy greens, berried branches, premium pinecones, and premade bows and baubles. But, wreath making can also be inexpensive, which is especially welcome during tough economic times when money is tight. Harvest ornamental branches and clippings from the garden, ask your local tree-yard for free evergreen branches, and you can create outstanding wreaths for very little. Learn to make your own festive bows, and your wreath will be a little less than the final cost of a wreath frame, florist’s wire, ribbon, and a little elbow grease and creative inspiration.
I like to gather wreath materials from my garden and use trimmed branches from my Christmas tree, but not all readers may have this advantage. Thankfully, many tree yards offer inexpensive or free greens, cones, and other decorations for wreath-making. Garden centers also sell a variety of greens and berries–some pricy and some reasonable. It is easy to err on the frugal side and still have materials to create something pretty and testing. Either way, making your own wreath is far cheaper than purchasing pre-made wreaths, and you end up with custom-made creations with personality.
DIY Garden Wreath Components
My favorite wreath components include evergreen branches, pine cones, dried flower heads, berried branches, dried grasses, and festive embellishments, such as metallic spray paint, a touch of glitter, and a bow. If I am feeling really frugal, I will even reuse a wreath frame by deconstructing my wreath creations yearly at the end of the season.
In addition to extra Frasier or balsam fir branches from my Chrismas trees, here are wreath components that I have in my yard:
- Evergreen Ferns
- Miscanthis Grass Plumes
- Dried Hydrangea Flowers (I did not add these to this year’s wreath)
- Nandina Greens & Berries
- American Holly Branches
- Cranberry Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster apiculatus) Branches/Berries
- White pine cones (I refrained from adding these to my wreath this year.)
Here are the extra materials I use for wreath making:
- Metal or grapevine wreath frame
- Heavy-duty shears
- A paddle of florist’s wire
- Decorative florist’s ribbon for the holidays or winter
DIY Wreath Technique
Here are the steps I took to put my wreath together. The process is easy, and the basic principles can be used to create lots of different wreath creations at different times of the year. Just be sure to use fresh plant materials that are long-lasting. Happy wreath making!
To make your porch look even more festive, make these holiday containers. They look wintery and pretty up until spring when you can dismantle them to make way for spring containers.
Why Did My Crape Myrtle Die?
“What caused my grown crepe myrtle to die? it was doing fine for many years, then just died. I cut down the branches [last spring] hoping it would revive, but it did not. I have several crepe mytles and never had one die before. Question from Sandy of Wake Forest, North Carolina
Answer: Crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) are usually quite trouble-free, but there are some threats that can cause them serious problems. Cold snaps will certainly cause crape myrtles to die back to the ground, but I see that your winter weather last year was quite mild.
Crape Myrtle Bark Scale
Another possibility for the fast decline of your trees is the crape myrtle bark scale (Eriococcus lagerstroemia or CMBS). The serious pest just recently appeared in North Carolina (click here for a detailed fact sheet), and it can devastate trees. SMBS is a fuzzy white scale insect that quickly covers crepe myrtle branches, sucking the life out of the newer and older growth. Live scale insects can be squashed in the summertime to reveal their red, blood-like interior. It’s a good way to identify the pests. Various external and systemic pesticides can be used to kill CMBS. To learn more, please contact your local extension agent (click here to find your local extension agent).
Most other crape myrtle pests and diseases cause limited damage, so make sure your trees are fully dead before cutting them down. Were any of last year’s leaves and stems alive? If so, continue to prune off the dead stems next season, leave the living stems, and contact your extension agent as soon as possible. They can test trees for the presence of additional diseases that may be plaguing them.
Happy gardening,
Jessie Keith
Black Gold Horticulturist
Why Won’t My Christmas Cactus Bloom?
“My Christmas cactus hasn’t bloomed in 2 years. It gets light from the sliding glass door on the south side of the house with a patio and garage, so it does not directly get light. Any suggestions?” Question from Victoria of Adrian, Michigan
Answer: There are several reasons why a Christmas or holiday cactus (Schlumbergera buckleyi and S. truncata) may fail to bloom. Here are the top four reasons followed by a thorough video that explains how to successfully care for these plants to ensure yearly flowering.
Top Three Reasons Why Christmas Cactus Won’t Bloom
- Too little or too much light: Very bright, indirect light is needed to induce bloom. High, natural light allows the plants to detect the long nights needed to induce blooming, while full sun will cause leaf damage.
- Too much or too little water: Even though Schlumbergera are cacti, regular water is required up until October. At this point, you must refrain from watering for one month. Well-drained soil is also essential.
- Dry air: Unlike most cacti, Schlumbergera are rainforest species that require high humidity.
To further troubleshoot what could be the problem, please watch the following video.
Happy gardening,
Jessie Keith
Black Gold Horticulturist
What Are Some Everblooming Flowers for Northern California?
“I live in Northern CA– in the Bay Area. What are the flowers I can plant that will bloom year-round?” Question from Floredia of Vallejo, California
Answer: You live in USDA Hardiness Zone 9b. Thankfully, there are lots of everblooming garden plants that continue to look pretty year-round. Here are some suggestions for your zone and mild, arid climate.
Six Everblooming Flowering Plants for Northern California
Marguerite Daisy (Argyranthemum frutescens, Zones 9-11): New varieties of this daisy from the Canary Islands have been bred to bloom continuously. Vanilla Butterfly® is an especially pretty, high-performing type with ivory and butter-yellow blooms. Established plants tolerate heat and some drought. Bees and butterflies will visit the flowers.
Everblooming Roses (Rosa spp., Zones 5-10): Most new roses are continuous bloomers that tend to flower most vigorously in spring and then in bursts when weather is favorable throughout the year. (Click here for a great list of roses recommended for the West Coast.)
Lynn’s Legacy Texas Ranger (Leucophyllum langmaniae ‘Lynn’s Legacy’, Zones 8-10): Beautiful lavender-blue flowers cover this evergreen Mexican shrub through most of the year. Plant it in a well-drained spot. The Chihuahuan Desert native needs dry soil once established.
Mes Azur Sage (Salvia ‘Mes Azur’, Zones 6-9): Here is a tough evergreen everblooming salvia that bears loads of small purple flowers all year round. It will only slow down a bit during the hottest driest times of the year. It is a great plant for bees.
Red Neck Girl Forsythia Sage (Salvia madrensis ‘Red Neck Girl’, Zones 7-10): If you like big, bold plants, then this everblooming Mexican salvia is for you. It has huge spikes of yellow flowers on 4-6-foot plants. Hummingbirds love them.
Redvein Indian Mallow (Abutilon striatum, Zones 9-11): Pendulous flowers of yellow with striking red veins cover this shrub through the warm growing season. Specimens can become quite large (8-10′) but take well to rigorous pruning. It also grows well in pots.
There are hundreds more flowers for your area that bloom almost year-round, so let this list be the start of an ongoing search.
Happy gardening,
Jessie Keith
Black Gold Horticulturist
When Do Daffodils Come Up in Spring?
“I just planted my daffodils. Now, when will they start to come up, in the spring? Also, can I just leave them in the ground so that they will come up again the following year?” Question from Bev of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Answer: It seems like a question that answers itself, but it is not. Truly, it depends. There are different daffodils that emerge and flower at different times in the spring season. So, the time that your daffodils will emerge depends on the varieties that you planted. (Always make note of your plant’s names, if they are given. They can provide a lot of needed information.)
Daffodil Bloom Times
Daffodils may emerge in early spring (February to March), early to mid-spring (March to April), mid-spring (April), mid-to-late-spring (April-May), or late-spring (May). The short, golden ‘February Gold‘ is an early spring daffodil that was first introduced in 1923; a good early to mid-spring variety is ‘Barrett Browning‘ with its ivory petals and small, dark-orange cups; lots of tiny cream and gold flowers cover the mid-spring bloomer ‘Minnow‘; ‘Ambergate‘ is a mid-to late-spring bloomer with tangerine and dark orange flowers; finally, ‘Sir Winston Churchill‘ is a fragrant, double-flowered daffodil that blooms late. And, if you plant all of these, you can happy sunny daffodils in your garden from February to May!
Daffodils are wonderfully hardy and naturalize over time. They are also very long-lived in the garden, which is why you commonly see them in big swaths around old homes. So, leave them in the ground. Once their greens tops start to turn brown in late spring, trim them back. The following spring, your daffodils should return in even greater numbers.
(Click here for more information about planting bulbs.)
Happy gardening,
Jessie Keith
Black Gold Horticulturist
How and When Should You Prune Cape Jasmine?
“When should an overgrown (8′ high) Cape Jasmine bush (we call them gardenias) be pruned? How severely can it be trimmed back? Thank you!” Question from Ann of Wake County, North Carolina
Answer: You have one happy Cape jasmine (Gardenia jasminoides, Zones 7-11)! You can take a couple of pruning approaches, but avoid pruning in fall. Spring is a better time. Be sure to use sharp bypass loppers, pruners, and a fine pruning saw (I like both Felco and Corona products). Always make cuts at a 45-degree angle for better healing. Here are two good options for pruning overgrown Cape jasmine.
- Renewal Pruning: This is the harshest method, but your shrub will be sized down faster. Cut the largest stems in spring as far back as 3 feet before new growth emerges. Be sure to prune and thin in a pleasing rounded shape. Remove any damaged or crossing stems as well as cumbersome old growth. Leave some fine branches with buds. Keep in mind, that this method will remove most of next year’s flower buds, but the plant should look quite nice once it leafs out.
- Two-Step Pruning: This method is less aggressive and will spare your flowers. Prune your Cape jasmine back to 5 feet after your shrubs flower next spring. Then prune again the following year after they flower to a final height of your liking. When pruning, strive for an appealing, mounding habit, and remove any old, crossing, damaged stems as you go.
For more information about Cape jasmine, click here to read a great resource from NC State Extension.
Happy gardening,
Jessie Keith
Black Gold Horticulturist
When Is The Best Time to Prune Roses?
“When is the best/latest date I can cut back roses?” Question from Joseph or Milwaukie, Oregon
Answer: Late winter is an excellent time to prune reblooming roses, but you can also safely prune them at other times–including now. I recommend that you read our blog about pruning roses in spring (click here to view it). I also encourage you to watch our rose-pruning video with West Coast Rosarian, Rich Baer. It provides a useful, hands-on overview of how to prune roses and covers everything from needed pruning tools to the proper pruning height.
Happy rose gardening,
Jessie Keith
Black Gold Horticulturist
Can I Use Black Walnut Leaves for Compost?
“I have several black walnut trees in my yard. Would it be alright to use the leaves in the compost? Question from Raymond of Holt, Michigan
Answer: I would not recommend it. As you surely know, black walnut trees (Juglans nigra) excrete the toxin, juglone, which is deadly to quite a few ornamental plants. The toxin helps reduce competition, making black walnuts bad trees for small home landscapes. Who wants a deadly tree around? Still, black walnuts are beautiful and have edible nuts that feed wildlife, so they are best reserved for more wild areas or fencelines far from the home garden–unless you plant nothing but tolerant plants.
Juglone is largely excreted by the roots, but it is also found in lower quantities in the wood and leaves. The toxin can leach from leaves into compost in small quantities. That’s why you need to be careful about what you plant near a walnut tree and where you put walnut leaves, which are best taken to the woods, fenceline, or bagged for disposal.
Because you have a black walnut tree, it would be prudent to get to know plants that are resistant and sensitive to these trees. Please click here for a great list provided by the Morton Arboretum, a world-class tree resource.
Symptoms of Black Walnut Toxic Syndrome
Keep in mind that there is no cure once sensitive plants have been significantly impacted by juglone. Exposure signs include yellowing, wilt, stunted growth, and finally death. It may take plants months to die after exposure.
Happy gardening,
Jessie Keith
Black Gold Horticulturist