Articles

Can You Help Me Learn How to Grow Herbs?

“I want to start growing my own fresh herbs. I am CLUELESS on gardening….help!” Question from Lisa of Erie, Pennsylvania

Answer: You are in luck! Herbs are some of the easiest plants you can grow. Almost all herbs require full sun, fertile soil with good drainage, and average water. Some are perennials (meaning they will survive the winter and grow each year) and others are annuals (meaning they will survive just one growing season and die). They are very easy to harvest. Just clip the leaves as you need them, being sure to leave enough to keep the plant full and healthy. Here are some great herbs to grow in your USDA Hardiness Zone 5 area.

Perennial Herbs

All of these herbs will live for at least three years in the garden. At planting time, be sure to give them good soil. If planting them in pots, they grow best in Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix, which is approved for organic gardening. If growing them in a prepared, weed-free garden work some Black Gold Garden Compost Blend into the soil to ensure they perform really well. After your herbs have been initially planted, water them every other day to help them become established. After a couple of weeks, you can water garden-grown plants less unless the ground becomes very dry. Potted herbs will need to be watered every other day or even daily if the weather is very hot and windy.

Lavender: Grow this easy herb in full, hot sun and raised very well-drained soil. The fragrant, shrubby perennials have pretty flowers that are highly attractive to bees. Many are not very winter hardy, but there are a few that will survive your winters. (Click here to learn more about growing lavender up north.)

Mint: Everyone loves mint, but this aggressive herb will take over a garden in no time, so plant it in a big pot filled with good potting soil. This will keep its roots from roaming.

Oregano: Like mint, oregano is a fast spreader but not quite as aggressive as mint. It should also be planted in a large pot.

Sage: This classic, bushy herb is evergreen and continues to look nice through winter. It’s broad, dusty gray leaves smell pungent when crushed, and in early summer, stems of pretty violet-blue flowers appear. I like to harvest it in the fall for late-season dishes.

Thyme: French thyme (Thymus vulgaris) is a favorite herb for flavor with lemon thyme (Thymus citriodorus) being a close second for taste. (Click here to learn more about other lemon-scented herbs.) Plant thyme in rock gardens or south-facing beds.

Annual Herbs

Annual herbs can be grown from seed or purchased at your favorite plant nursery.

Basil: This is one of the best annual herbs for hot summer days. It can easily be grown in the garden or containers. (See the video below to learn how to care for container-grown basil.) Clip the leaves all summer to keep plants tidy and flavorful.

Cilantro: This cool-season herb grows best in spring or fall. Harvest cilantro leaves when they are lush and green. As the plants mature, they produce frilly white flowers that develop into round seed heads, which can be ground to create the spice coriander.

Dill: Dill is a cool-season herb like cilantro. Its delicate dilly leaves taste great in salads, and its seeds can be used to flavor dill pickles.

Parsley: Parsley grows and tastes best in the spring or fall. Sometimes it will survive one winter, but it is best grown as an annual. Once it has flowered, it is time to pull it from the ground and plant more.

I hope that these growing tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Can I Plant Annuals and Vegetables Together?

Can you plant annual flowers and vegetables in the same raised bed? Question from Diane or Newark, Ohio

Answer: Sure! In many cases, annuals can be beneficial to vegetables by warding off pests (click here to read about the protective power of marigolds) and/or attract pollinators. Compact flowers that will not compete for too much sunlight or water are best.  Here are some of my favorite flowers to plant in my vegetable garden for beauty, cut flowers, and to feed pollinators. These sun-lovers are all effortless to grow.

  1. Cosmos (dwarf): The pretty daisy flowers of these annuals are good for cutting and attract bees. Try the compact varieties Sonata Mix (2-feet high) or the fully double pink ‘Rose Bonbon‘ (2 to 3-feet high).
  2. Calendula: These cheerful yellow or orange daisies are grown as herbs as well as flowers because they have edible petals that can be used to make tea or soothing balms.
  3. Dahlias: There are hundreds of amazing dahlias to choose from and all make excellent cut flowers. Bees and butterflies also love them. Choose compact varieties for easier care. Check out Swan Island Dahlias to choose the best dahlia for your taste.
  4. Marigolds: I love tall marigolds in the vegetable garden. The large flowers look pretty through summer, and these Mexican natives just thrive in the heat. ‘Kee’s Orange’ is a brilliant variety with deepest orange flowers.
  5. Compact Sunflowers: There are loads of spectacular sunflowers for the garden, and all are very easy to grow from seed. I suggest choosing compact varieties because they won’t shade out vegetables or fall over in wind. (Click here to learn all about growing sunflowers.)
  6. Zinnias: Any tall or medium-sized zinnia will add color and cut flowers to your garden. Check out the new Zinnia ‘Zinderella Purple’ or  Zinnia ‘Queeny Orange Lime’. Both are beautiful and some of the easiest flowers that you can grow from seed.

Try adding any of these pretty annuals to your vegetable garden this season for functional color.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

 

Do I Have To Worry About Your Soils While Pregnant?

“I am pregnant and was watering my plants when I got Black Gold potting soil on my hands. I am concerned about toxoplasmosis and have questions. Is your soil made in areas where cats are present?” Question from Katie

Answer: Feline waste is not an ingredient present in our mixes! As you probably know, toxoplasmosis may be present in fresh or old cat feces. Any garden threat of this parasite would come from cats defecating directly into your garden soils. (Click here to read the CDCs guidelines for protecting yourself against toxoplasmosis.)

With that said, be cautious when gardening while pregnant, and always wear waterproof garden gloves followed by washing your hands well after gardening. All natural, in-ground soils always contain Listeria monocytogenes, a bacterium that can cause the disease listeriosis, which pregnant women are susceptible to. So, dig carefully, and clean up well. (Click here to read the CDCs guidelines for protecting yourself from listeriosis.)

We also recommend washing any garden herbs, fruits, or vegetables very well before consuming them.

Garden safely,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do I Calculate How Much Peat to Add to My Garden?

“I purchased 3.0 CF bags of Black Gold Peat Moss. What is the expanded volume of this bag? I need 3.5 cubic yards of peat for my raised bed garden mix, so was going to buy 32 of these bales…but realized it’s going to expand. How do I calculate how much to buy?” Question from Dave of Utah

Answer: To determine the expansion of 3.0 cubic foot bales of Black Gold Peat Moss anticipate it at a 2:1 ratio. So, the bales should expand to 6 cubic feet when properly fluffed. One cubic yard equals 27 cubic feet, so to determine the amount you need in cubic yards calculate 3.5  x 27 = 94.5. Then divide 94.5 by 6 for a total of 15.75 bales. I’d go with 16 bales of peat to be safe.

I hope that this helps!

Best,

Jessie Keith

How Do I Keep Cats Out of the Garden?

How do I keep cats out of the garden? Question from Richard of Winston Salem, North Carolina.

Answer: Even if you love cats, they can be real pests in the garden, even though they keep a wide variety of other garden pests at bay. Their love of soft mulch and soil for defecation encourages them to treat nice garden ground as makeshift cat boxes. Bird lovers also frown at cats hovering around their yards and feeders.

There are several methods for deterring cats from the garden. You will have the best luck if you target the areas where cats are the biggest problem. Here are my recommendations.

Repellent Plantings

First, you can rely on natural or store-bought repellents.  Cats dislike strong citrus and menthol smells. So during the summer months, you can plant herbs that they dislike. These include the attractive cat repellent plant (Plectranthus caninus), lemon verbena (Aloysia citriodora), lavender (Lavandula spp.), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), rue (Ruta graveolens), and sage (Salvia officinalis). Oniony smells are also not cat favorites, so chives (Allium schoenoprasum) or summer ornamental onion (Allium ‘Summer Beauty’) are other planting options. (Click here to learn more about planting lemon-scented herbs or other garden herbs.)

Many commercial repellents also exist. I recommend reading customer reviews to find the best one to repel cats.

Catproof Plantings

Cats like open ground, so don’t leave large spaces between plantings. Dense groundcovers and prickly plantings of all kinds will do a lot to keep cats away. Roses, hollies, mahonia, and low-growing junipers and pines are all good prickly plant choices. Sweet box (Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis), spotted deadnettle (Lamium maculatum), thyme (Thymus spp.), and bugleweed (Ajuga reptans) are all good groundcovers to ward off cat digging.

Rethinking Mulch

Well-placed rocks or stone soil covers will also keep cats from digging in favorite places. You may also consider placing a mulch of prickly pinecones in strategic places. For vegetable gardens, I recommend putting down a layer of mulch cloth or thick wetted newspaper and covering that with an additional layer of hay or pine straw. Not only will this keep weeds down, but it will discourage cats from digging.

Automated Scarecrows

There are lots of motion sensor “scarecrows” to keep cats away from garden areas. These include those that spray water or emit ultrasound or other sounds to frighten away cats. Once again, read reviews before making an investment. Customer satisfaction is always the best means for determining whether a costly product is worth your money.

Fencing

Cats can easily jump fences, but a 4-foot wire fence around a vegetable garden plot may be enough to ward them off.  This will also keep rabbits away.

Cats Lures

It may sound counterproductive, but some people have had success planting catnip or other cat-attractant plants away from precious garden areas. A planting on your yard’s periphery may prove helpful.

I hope that these tips are useful!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Can You Help Me Grow Better Root Vegetables?

“I always have bad luck growing rooted veggies – but get a lot of tomatoes and cukes – and beans why?” Question from Christine of Adams, Massachusetts

Answer: Tomatoes, cucumbers, and beans are all warm-season crops, while many root crops are cool-season crops. So long as your root veggie problems aren’t caused by groundhogs, insect pests, rabbits, or voles, there are several reasons why you may be having troubles. Here’s an overview of how to grow root vegetables with success.

Growing Root Vegetables

Most root vegetables grow and taste best in cool weather and can be started in spring just before the last frost. This includes spring beets, carrots, onions, radishes, and turnips. Choose highly rated or award-winning varieties, like the AAS-winning carrot ‘Purple Haze‘ or ‘Avalanche‘ beet, to ensure good results. These vegetables require a sunny garden space, but before you plant, first consider your soil.

Root vegetables grow best in deep, friable loam that’s high in organic matter and has a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Deep, loose soil is especially important for tap-rooted veggies, like carrots, parsnips, and Asian radishes. If the soil is tough down below, they will be stunted. I recommend double digging your root vegetable plot. Double digging involves deeply digging a garden area to loosen the soil, and amending with compost (Black Gold Garden Compost Blend) and slow-release vegetable fertilizer to encourage superior rooting. [Click here to read an article about double digging.]

When seeding your crops, create shallow rows with a stick and sprinkle them with added compost to aid germination. Label the rows, sprinkle in the seeds, cover with another light sprinkling of compost, and lightly water. Keep the rows just moist until the seeds start to sprout. As they grow, you can water them more vigorously. When the seedlings have reached 3 inches or so, thin them. (Please see the video below about growing beets for thinning instructions.) Keep these vegetables moderately moist and well weeded, and they should grow beautifully!

Later in the season, you may consider growing fall root crops, like winter carrots and onions, parsnips, and rutabaga. [Click here to read an article about growing these crops.]

Good luck with this year’s root crops!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Create and Enjoy Community Garden Tours

Written by Nan Sterman

I tend to divide the world into two kinds of people: those who walk or drive down a street, oblivious to their surroundings, and those who notice everything, especially cool gardens.  The latter group often dreams of strolling through gates and peaking over fences into the lush backyards and courtyards of others. If you notice everything (and of course you do), spring or summer is your lucky season for garden tours, private or public. And, if you lack garden tours in your community, consider creating your own!

Types of Garden Tours

The gardens included on tours are often private but can also be public and include speakers.

Garden tours are usually organized or offered by garden clubs, garden societies, and or public gardens. Some benefit causes like school gardens or educational scholarships or community beautification projects.  Other tours, such as native garden tours, have an educational goal.  Still, other tours are just for the fun of it. I went on a first garden tour more than 25 years ago. Since then, I’ve attended dozens, held my own garden on tour many times, and designed tours for the public.

Starting a Community Garden Tour

If you are innovative and know lots of other enthusiastic gardeners, you can start your own garden tour in your community. That’s just what I did. In 2005, I was first asked to head a tour for my community, the Encinitas Garden Festival & Tour.  Then in 2010 an annual self-guided walking tour of over 23 private gardens (a school garden, a butterfly vivarium, and even a fire station garden) was created where I live! Thousands now attend the event, which also features a marketplace of vendors selling plants, pots, tools, and garden soil (like Black Gold®), and close to a dozen talks on gardening topics.

Our tour is unusual in its size and scope, but if you develop and host a tour annually, it will surely grow.  Typically, a new garden tour features four, five, or maybe ten gardens on a driving and walking tour. For the price of admission, attendees generally get a map of the garden locations and a description of what makes each one special, in addition to garden access. Garden hosts are at the ready to help attendees better understand the plants, development, and overall design scheme of their gardens. Each tour will be as unique as its community. As it grows, so can its offerings.

The Dos and Don’ts of Garden Tours

Whichever tour you choose to attend or host, here are some dos and don’ts:

DO

  • Buy tickets ahead of time, so you know where to go, and so organizers can anticipate how many people to host.
  • Wear comfortable shoes.  (I’m always amazed to see high heels teetering down a garden path.)
  • Wear sunscreen, a hat, and bring a bottle of water — common sense.
  • If you have trouble walking or negotiating rough surfaces, inquire about the garden accessibility ahead of time. This is especially essential for people in wheelchairs and parents with children in strollers. Many private gardens are not designed for public access or ADA compatibility.
  • Get an estimate of how long it might take to visit the gardens, so you can plan your day.
  • With tours where there are just a few gardens but lots of people, expect some lines. Be patient. While you wait, strike up a conversation with the person next to you.  You may learn an interesting gardening tip or, at least, make a new friend.
  • Leave the dog at home. Fido may adore the walk but garden owners won’t be appreciative.
  • Bring a camera! Bring a camera! Bring a camera!  And a notebook.

DON’T

  • Pick flowers, collect seeds, or take cuttings. Taking anything from a garden without permission is, well, stealing. If you see a plant you like, take a photo or note its name. Take that information to your local nursery.
  • Go into areas marked as being off-limits.  There is a reason they are marked that way.
  • Try to visit a garden that is not on the tour, even if it looks absolutely fascinating.
  • Criticize a garden. Their owners work hard to prepare for your visit.

Then once you enter each garden, take a good attitude and have a good time! After you complete your garden tour, your next step should be to go home and implement some of your new garden ideas using Black Gold®!

 

Sunflowers for Bees, Song Birds, and Garden Splendor

Honeybees and native bees rely on sunflowers for pollen and nectar.

Annual sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) are pure floral gold. Their immense blooms have an almost storybook quality. They track the sun, creating a glowing warm basin of golden pollen and sweet nectar to draw bees and butterflies. Abundant oil-rich seed heads follow, feeding both wildlife and humans. For Native Americans, sunflowers symbolized courage and were cultivated as the “fourth sister,” along with corn, beans, and squash.

Sunflower History

Native Americans first cultivated sunflowers nearly 3000 years ago.

Sunflowers are North American natives, with natural populations extending from southernmost Canada to Central Mexico.  Native Americans first cultivated them nearly 3000 years ago, using them for food, dye, medicine, and ceremony. Colonists quickly adopted the flowers—growing them for food, livestock forage, and beauty. Today, the nearly one-billion-dollar sunflower industry has them farmed and manufactured for oil, food, birdseed, cut flowers, and gardening.

Cultivated sunflowers can be traced to two population centers in the central and eastern US, according to research. From these, hundreds of cultivated varieties have arisen with diverse heights, flower sizes, and colors ranging from gold to bronze, orange, burnished red, near black, pale yellow, and ivory. Vibrant new varieties serve the seed, cut flower, and gardening markets, but some of the best selections are Native American heirlooms—offering qualities that sustained peoples for thousands of years.

Sunflowers and Wildlife

Sunflowers feed bees, butterflies, and birds. (Image by Franziska Meyer)

Honeybees and native bees rely on annual sunflowers for pollen and nectar, along with butterflies and other nectar feeders. Mature seed heads become songbird feeding stations—attracting finches, nuthatches, cardinals, and titmice—while also attracting many small mammals. Wildlife prefers large-headed varieties, which can be cut, dried, and saved to feed birds through winter. Avoid growing pollenless sunflower varieties for bees, because they offer less food value to these pollinators.

 

Sunflowers for Seed

Hungry birds begin to devour seed heads as they develop!

Mammoth Grey Stripe’ is the best-known seed sunflower! Its huge golden blooms are supported by strong stems able to hold the weight of the fully developed seed heads. The massive plants reach 10-12’ in height, and the heads of grey-striped seeds reach up to 12” across. The comparable ‘Mammoth Russian’ is slightly larger with golden petals and striped seed hulls. It reaches 14’ in height and bears 12-14” heads. ‘Giant White Seeded’ is another good seed producer with pure white seed hulls produced on 12” heads. Provide all large sunflowers with lots of space and expect many colorful goldfinches to visit as their heads develop. (Cut or cover any heads you want to save for winter birds!)

Native American Heirloom Sunflowers

‘Hopi Black Dye’ has black-hulled seeds used for natural dye. (Photo courtesy of High Mowing Seeds)

Native American sunflower varieties have unique traits valued by the tribespeople that saved them over generations. The black-hulled ‘Hopi Black Dye’ has large flowers with yellow petals and black-brown centers. The near-black seed hulls were used by the Hopi people to dye wool and baskets.  A great Native American variety for eating is ‘Arikara‘. First collected on the Louis and Clarke expedition, these golden sunflowers were grown by the Arikara people (in present-day Missouri) for their massive seed heads that can reach 16” across. The seeds of this variety also germinate under cooler conditions than many other sunflowers.

Sunflowers for Cutting

‘Sunrich Orange Summer’ is a great pollenless variety for cutting.

Sunflowers produce copious messy pollen, which is why pollenless varieties are preferred for cutting gardens. ‘Pro Cut’ has pollenless chocolate-brown centers and golden petals (much like a giant black-eyed-Susan) that look superb in arrangements. Children love ‘Teddy Bear’, a compact (2-3′), fully double, golden variety with minimal pollen. Choose ‘Sunrich Orange Summer’ for its yellow petals and pollenless brown centers. The deep burgundy ‘Prado Red‘ has almost black centers and bears many pollenless flowers perfect for cutting through summer.

Sunflowers for Gardens

Autumn Beauty mix produces lots of pretty flowers that shine in the garden.

Choose shorter or colorful, long-flowering, multi-branched sunflowers for a big garden show. The well-branched Autumn Beauty Blend sunflowers have long-flowering bold blooms in shades of gold and burnished-red. The 5-6’ plants are perfect for large borders. The ivory and pale yellow flowers of ‘Italian White’ are small, delicate, and borne in profusion on 5-7′, well-branched plants. Both perform well in big garden spaces!

There are lots of super-compact varieties good for small-space gardening. Pick the 1-2′ ‘Big Smile‘ for containers and really small gardens. Its dark-centered yellow flowers are cheerful and prolific. The slightly taller ‘Peach Passion’ is a 2-4’ variety with loads of small, peachy yellow flowers over a season.

Growing Sunflowers

Sunflowers take 50-110 days to bloom from seed, depending on the variety. Plant seeds outdoors in fertile, well-drained soil to a depth of 1-2″, or indoors under grow lights in pots of Black Gold Seedling Mix. Amending garden soil with Black Gold Garden Soil or Black Gold Garden Compost Blend will help facilitate germination and deep root growth. Give sunflowers full sun and lots of space to grow, especially tall varieties. Provide minimal care once established, aside from occasional watering in dry weather.

The burgundy blooms of ‘Prado Red’ are unique and beautiful.

Refrain from planting sunflowers near areas where you intend to direct sow other seeds. Sunflowers excrete chemicals from their roots that reduce germination and seedling growth in many other plant species. This helps sunflowers naturally compete in the wild, but it can create problems in the garden.

Sunflowers are easy to grow, making them one of the best flowers for wildlife and enjoyment. They also self-sow, so you can expect interesting volunteers to pop up in your garden for years to come. Every garden needs a little sun from these cheerful, easy annuals.

The fully double ‘Teddy Bear’ is great for children’s gardens.