“How do you prune a Bay Leaf plant?” Question from Mark or Warren, Ohio
Answer: Whether potted or grown in-ground in a Mediterranean climate, spring is the best time to prune back a bay laurel. Start by removing branches with unhealthy leaves. Then prune to shape by either shearing stem tips or cutting small or overgrown stems back to the main stem. Shearing stem tips will result in denser growth. Be sure to use clean, sharp bypass pruners for your cuts. (I like Felco pruners.) Leave plenty of healthy foliage on your tree, so it can recover quickly. Here’s a little more information about keeping potted bay laurels happy.
Growing Bay Laurel
Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis) is a broadleaf evergreen tree from North Africa and Asia that is hardy between USDA Hardiness Zones 8-10. Thankfully, it is very easy to grow indoors, if you have a sunny spot that remains relatively cool through the winter.
Bay laurels require less water in fall and winter. During the summer months, bay pots grow better outdoors and require more water. Upgrade your bay when it outgrows its pot.
Fast-growing bays should be planted in pots twice the size of the root ball–be sure to leave at least 2 inches of top space for watering. We recommend planting bay in a rich, well-drained mix for edible growing, like Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix, which is approved for organic gardening.
Fresh bay leaves can be harvested all season long, just be sure to leave enough leaves on the plant for good growth and plant health.
Pruning shrub roses in spring…exactly what does it mean when a rose is called a ‘shrub rose’? In Taylor’s Dictionary for Gardeners a shrub is defined as “A woody plant that is shorter than a tree and usually has several stems that branch from the base”. This definition would certainly fit many rose types, like floribunda (shrub rose crosses between polyantha and hybrid teas roses.), grandiflora (shrub rose crosses between hybrid tea and floribunda roses), rugosa (Rosa rugosa), musk rose (Rosa moschata), or other species shrub roses.
Putting the word ‘shrub’ in front of the word rose has several different connotations. On the Royal Horticulture Society website, they describe shrub roses as flowering just once in the summer and requiring little formal pruning, which is not true for contemporary, ever-blooming shrub roses. As I continued reading their website, I realized they were using the term “shrub rose” to denote what we would call old garden and species roses, (hybrid musk, damask, moss rose, gallica, etc.).
Modern Shrub Roses
Pink Double Knock Out® is one of several roses in the series. (Image by Jessie Keith)
Most gardeners that I know would refer to a shrub rose as one that is bushy, has smaller flowers, masses of blooms, and requires very little maintenance. These are the roses that, here in Portland, we would see along the freeways with flowers that almost cover the shrub throughout the summer. These roses are also often used in commercial parking lots, and some homeowners use them as a mass planting in the front of their home in the space between the curb and the sidewalk.
One of the most popular of the shrub roses are those in the Knock Out® series, developed by Star Roses®. Introduced in 2000, the original Knock Out® is now the most widely sold rose in the United States. This ever-blooming shrub rose has rosy pink flowers, but new selections have been developed with flowers of pink, white, and yellow. It is a very vigorous shrub and is black spot resistant which has made it a favorite of Pacific Northwest gardeners. In my own garden, I have a grouping of Knock Out® roses and they provide a bright spot of color all summer and I have never seen a sign of black spot.
Peach Drift® is one of many shrub roses in the Meilland group of roses. (Images by Jessie Keith)
These are not the only shrub roses on the market, though. Many more, featuring more refined blooms are available through vendors, such as David Austin English Roses. Many of these choice shrub roses are award-winning and selected for disease resistance as well as their voluptuous blooms with great fragrance.
Another recommended group are the popular French Meilland®landscape roses, which are available as a groundcover, bush, or larger shrub roses and feature numerous flowers all season long. They are available in lots of colors and are also markedly disease resistant and low maintenance.
Pruning Shrub Roses
These hard-pruned Knock Out® shrub roses will look full and flowered by summer.
Before doing any rose pruning you’ll need sharp pruning shears or loppers and a pair of thick rose gloves with gauntlet cuffs that resist thorns. I also think it is a good idea to wear safety glasses. The months of February or March are ideal for pruning shrub roses. It is easier to make cuts when the foliage is absent and pests and diseases are yet to be a problem.
When pruning shrub roses, I go back to the Royal Horticulture Society and their web article about shrub-rose pruning where they suggest “little formal pruning.” This is largely because older shrub rose varieties bloom on old wood, but newer shrub roses bloom on new wood, and seasonal pruning can keep their height in check while helping them look tidier.
Thin out smaller branches to open up the bush to more light and air circulation.
When you think of pruning Knock Outs®, these are the freeway roses that maintenance crews prune with power hedge shears! While I would not suggest that sort of extreme pruning for a homeowner, this does give an indication of how receptive they are to rough pruning. Home gardeners will see desired results if they cut shrub roses back just below the final desired height and width; well-established roses will branch out far beyond the cuts you make. Then prune out any dead, diseased, or broken branches, and thin out smaller branches to open up the bush to more light and air circulation. large, old shrubs can be renewal pruned back to 18 inches if they grow far beyond their boundaries.
My Favorite Shrub Rose
Rosa glauca is a species shrub rose with blue-green leaves and single roses. (Image by Rich Baer)
One larger shrub rose that I particularly like, is a species rose called Rosa glauca. This tall-growing shrub reaches 7-8 feet tall in my garden. It is a once-blooming rose with single pink flowers followed by red hips, however, another feature of this rose is the bluish color of the leaves. This is a beautiful background plant; even without flowers, the foliage looks good all summer. Each year I prune my plant to about half its height in March.
Do not be bashful about pruning your shrub roses. They are quite resilient and any cutting mistakes you make in March will probably not be evident by June.
Removing the old, spent flowers from perennials, like this coneflower, will keep the plants flowering and looking great for longer. (photo by Jessie Keith)
Summer is not the time of year when most gardeners prune, but there are some definite advantages to summer pruning. It is easier to identify damaged or ill branches when a tree is in full leaf. When a tree is in full leaf it is also easier to identify branches that can be removed to provide better air circulation. A reminder: if you are going to do summer pruning on fruit trees, do it after the fruit has set.
Summer Pruning
Deadheading modern rose varieties will encourage new roses to appear. (photo by Jessie Keith)
For those gardeners that have espaliered fruit trees, constant summer pruning is a necessity. With the tree sending out new branches, it is important not to let these grow too long but to keep them trimmed so the tree is kept properly trained and maintained. For gardeners that would like to be able to grow their own fruit trees, but have limited space, growing espaliered trees is an excellent option to consider.
There is confusion among gardeners as to when and how to prune hydrangeas. Some hydrangeas bloom on 2nd-year wood, so if a plant is severely pruned one season, it may take a full year for it to come into bloom again. There are other Hydrangeas, ‘Limelight’ is a good example, that bloom on new growth. This means it can be pruned at almost any time and still produce flowers. Check with your local garden center to learn the best time to prune your hydrangeas and still get flowers.
Check with gardening neighbors and garden experts to get additional tips on pruning. Find a neighbor that likes to garden and soak up some information. One of the best things about gardening is that most gardeners are very friendly, helpful, and like to share information.
growth buds that reside on either side of it.
Deadheading
When removing the summer seed heads from Rhododendron, be sure not to remove the new
“Deadheading” means is removing the old flower stems to make way for new. The word is used frequently with regard to rhododendrons and azaleas and refers to snapping or cutting off the area where the old flower was attached to the stem. With most rhododendrons and azaleas, this area is usually very visible which makes removal easy. Often, this is done for visual purposes because dried up flowers are not very attractive. Removing the flowers is also a way to prevent the plant from forming seed. When a plant forms seeds, it takes away nourishment that could be used for new growth. Be careful when removing the seed head because new growth buds reside on either side of it and should not be removed. These new buds will produce the new growth for the summer and this growth will then develop flower buds for next years’ bloom.DRoses are another plant that responds well to having the flower stems removed after the flowers are gone. This will encourage the plant to produce new stems and new flowers. Stem removal can also be seen as a way to perform some selective summer pruning and will help ‘open’ the bush up to allow for good air circulation. Just be sure to sanitize your pruners between plants to protect against any potential spread of disease.
Winter is not pruning season for all plants, even though most gardeners traditionally prune in the cold season. Sometimes what is traditional, is simply that, ‘traditional’ and may have no actual factual basis.
For espaliered fruit trees, constant summer pruning is a necessity. (Image by Jessie Keith)
Once Rhododendron flowers have died, remove them from the base to stop seed development.
Spring is a good time for some general maintenance pruning on some trees and shrubs. If your rhododendrons have not been deadheaded, it should be done as soon as possible. I have to smile to myself when I use the word ‘deadhead’ as it is commonly used in garden lingo and many of us think everyone understands the meaning but that is not always the case. I once had someone ask me, very seriously, what exactly did I mean when I said ‘deadhead’! And when I paused briefly to consider the question, I could understand their uncertainty.
Beneath each rhododendron bloom lies two leaf buds. Be sure not to cut these off when deadheading your rhododendron.
Deadheading Rhododendrons
To put the word in the context, deadheading rhododendrons means to remove all of the unattractive dead or dying flower clusters. If left on the plant, they will begin to produce seed, which takes energy the plant could be using for growth and vigor. Look closely at the flower cluster, and it will have a stem that attaches to the branch. The flower cluster should be cut or snapped off just above the junction where it meets the branch. Remove the stem carefully because at the base there will be one, or several, new leaf buds forming that will emerge as the present year’s new growth. Be sure not to cut these.
Rhododendrons can also be pruned hard if they have gotten too tall. Pruning after blooming is ideal. If pruning is delayed, the buds for next year’s flowers will develop, and pruning hard will result in few or no flowers the following year. If this has happened, and the plant needs to be pruned for height purposes, hard pruning should not harm the plant but don’t expect flowers.
Summer Rose Care
Cut the stems of hybrid teas lower than normal to regulate shrub size while encouraging more flowering
Hybrid tea roses often grow to six feet or more in one season, which is an unwelcome height in many gardens. It is easy to continually prune roses throughout the season, as flower stems are cut for arrangements, but this may not be enough. So, try cutting flowers and pruning at once. For example, if the desired rose height is four feet, go down the stem to the desired height when cutting a flower. Roses are quite forgiving, and soon new flower buds will follow. The advantage of pruning continuously throughout the season is that there will always be some bloom on some of the plants. We are growing roses for their flowers and everything we can do to encourage flower production and keep the bush the size we want is the ideal goal to strive for.
Pruning Trees & Shrubs in Summer
Sometimes I think it is easier to do spring pruning on deciduous trees and shrubs because it is easier to see what branches need to be removed. Once they have lost their leaves, it can be difficult to remember which branches were well placed and which were not. Home gardeners can also prune and shape spring-flowering shrubs, such as lilac, Korean spice viburnum, and daphne, once flowering has ceased. With shrubs like these, it is essential to prune just after they flower to ensure you don’t remove next year’s flowers.
Prune lilacs just after they have bloomed. (Image by Jessie Keith)
As we head into summer, we have been having some record high temperatures here in the Pacific Northwest with little rain. Many plants are suffering from these temperatures, but some techniques can help. It is not too late to add a mulch of Black Gold Waterhold Cocoblend Potting Soil, to help preserve soil moisture. Plants in pots will benefit from this as much as those in the ground. Try it. You will be surprised at the water-holding properties of this mix, and I think your plants will thank you.
Fall is a good time for light rose pruning, though most recommend you prune these shrubs in late winter or early spring. Trim your roses to about waist high (3 ft). I like to take off the old leaves if they are still on the plant. Prune out any dead or diseased canes. Be sure to wear heavy rose gloves to keep your hands protected and rely on sharp bypass pruners to make the job easy.
Wait until mid February for the severe pruning of cutting canes to about 18 inches. At this time, it also helps to feed plants with a little organic rose & flower fertilizer.
