How Do I Remove Bermudagrass from My Fescue Lawn?

How Do I Remove Bermudagrass from My Fescue Lawn?

“Hello, I have fescue grass, but I also have Bermuda weeds growing within. Last year I had the area dug up,  Round-Up sprayed, new sod put in. Now the Bermuda weed is back. How do I get rid of it? Some suggested I put St. Augustine grass plugs, and it will rid the weeds, but I have heard it turns brown in the winter. Any suggestions would be appreciated.” Question from Cliff Pearce of Riverside, California

Answer: When planted side-by-side, Bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon, Zones 7-10) will always win over fescue (Festuca spp., Zones 3-9). Fescues are finer, less aggressive grasses relative to Bermudagrass, which is a tough, broad-bladed grass that can quickly grow out of control without maintenance. Even worse, Bermudagrass roots can grow to a depth of 6 feet or more, so it is hard to kill. Clearly, the Round-Up (glyphosate) did not kill it to the root.

How to Kill Bermuda Grass

From what I have gathered, there are three good ways to kill this grass: smother it, solarize it, or use a strong selective herbicide. It would be easy to solarize in the hot California sun. To do this, mow the area low and then simply cover it with an impermeable layer of thick clear plastic. Use landscape pins to hold it down. Keep it in place for four weeks or more, until the grass below has died. In theory, this method will kill it to the root. (Click here for more details.)

If you would prefer using a selective herbicide, consult with a local lawn specialist. Mighty potent herbicides are needed to kill Bermudagrass, and you don’t want to handle them yourself.

Your Lawncare Options

  1. Really kill the Bermudagrass, and replant once more with fescue. If you took this route, I recommend patching the area with a fresh piece of healthy fescue sod for the best results. Black Gold Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss is a great amendment to apply for better grass seed or sod establishment.
  2. Replant with tougher lawn grass. Consider a lawn of the drought-tolerant ‘UC Verde’® Buffalograss (Bouteloua dactyloides), a University of California introduction specially bred for many southern California climates. I believe that in Southern California, it will remain green with good care. It is low-growing, native, Waterwise, and attractive. St. Augustine grass is also tough, but it is susceptible to fungal diseases and does turn brown in winter.
  3. Accept that keeping a monoculture lawn is a headache and tolerate the Bermudagrass. If you are a diehard lawn person, then ignore me here, but my lawn is full of clover, mixed grasses, and even violets, and I’m fine with my imperfect lawn, as long as it is well-cut and tidy. The bees also like it better.

I hope that some of these tips help.

Happy lawn care!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Raised Garden Beds In Dry Country

BG-WATERHOLD_1cu-FRONTMy desert garden is the worst case scenario, and I like it that way. When I test plants and products for gardens, they go through the wringer…literally. I want to know how far I can push things before they fail.


When the dry wind blows up here in the high desert of southern California, it sucks every bit of moisture out of the soil surface. The real problem is called desiccation, which is the process of wind drawing moisture out of a living leaf. Under these conditions, there simply isn’t enough moisture in the root zone to replace what’s lost. Growth slows, leaf edges brown and plants fail to thrive.


I decided to try Black Gold Waterhold Cocoblend Potting Soil to see if it would offer plants more immediate moisture availability. Because my soil is so porous, I simply dug a hole, filled it with Cocoblend and planted tomatoes directly into the potting soil. Nearby I mixed compost and organic fertilizer into my desert ground, which is more like decomposed granite than real soil, and planted more tomatoes there. The test plant groups were no more than four feet apart.


Then came an unusual with cold gale force winds from dawn to dusk. My test took the full brunt of it. The plants in Cocoblend stood the desiccation easily. The others lost their bright green coloring and took on temporary wilt. Frankly, it amazed me that differences were so immediately apparent. And this repeated itself over and over when temperatures soared or more moderate wind blew for days. I could not help but attribute the difference to the coir in the aptly named Waterhold Cocoblend.


densityCoir is a byproduct of coconut processing. It is the stringy brown fibers that composed the husk, and these are stripped off when coconuts are processed. When finely ground, this material is proving the most absorptive material available, and yet it won’t pack down over time to cause drainage problems. Best of all, it is recycled, not mined.
What this told me is that Black Gold Waterhold Cocoblend Potting Soil is without question the best choice for raised beds in dry climates hot and cold. Somehow the absorbency of coir is so far beyond anything we’ve seen in the past that its revolutionizing the potting soil world. When used to fill raised beds, it is the best choice for sustainability because it is made from recycled material and helps to conserve water. Virtually every drop you apply to the garden will be absorbed and held ready for roots when they need it. Plus, it takes about twenty years for coir to decompose, so you can be sure it’s as viable today as it will be in the future.


The combination of coir and peat moss is biologically active because worm castings are part of the scientifically blended soil. Earth worms process natural soil into castings which are rich in slow release nutrients. They also contain a whole world of microbes which are introduced to this rich organic soil. Some microbes actually make plants more resistant to drought, promote more aggressive root development and improve disease resistance.


Whenever you create a vegetable garden in raised beds, you must fill it with soil. There are many choices available in a wide range of prices. But remember this: You get one chance to fill those beds, and selecting poor, low cost soil means you start off lacking in water holding potential, microbial activity and nutrient loads from day one. That’s a serious problem out west in our hot, rainless, dry environment. You’ll be always running to catch up. That’s no real savings.