Food-Gardening Lessons From A Wartime Victory Garden

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Author: JESSIE KEITH

Plants are the lens Jessie views the world through because they’re all-sustaining. (“They feed, clothe, house and heal us. They produce the air we breathe and even make us smell pretty.”) She’s a garden writer and photographer with degrees in both horticulture and plant biology from Purdue and Michigan State Universities. Her degrees were bolstered by internships at Longwood Gardens and the American Horticultural Society. She has since worked for many horticultural institutions and companies and now manages communications for Sun Gro Horticulture, the parent company of Black Gold. Her joy is sharing all things green and lovely with her two daughters.

Why Aren’t My House Plants Growing?

“Why would a houseplant just not grow? A couple of my houseplants won’t get any bigger or the growth is so slow it’s barely noticeable. I got them when they were small starter plants & have had them for a year or 2. These are my common plants…spider and prayer plant.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.” Question from Katherine of Las Vegas, Nevada

Answer: There are several reasons why your plants may be stunted or growing poorly. Reasons typically involve soil drainage, soil quality, fertilizer, and light. Here are seven house plants Q&As to make sure your plants are getting what they need.

  1. Does your pot have drainage holes and a saucer to catch water? If not, repot your plants in pots with good drainage. Otherwise, water will pool at the bottom of the pot and inhibit root growth.
  2. When you stick a finger in your potting soil is it saturated or dry? Even moisture is what you want for these plants. (Click here to read a great article about how to water house plants.)
  3. Is your pot big enough? Check to see if your plant’s roots are “bound” by trying to run your finger along the inner edge of the pot below the soil line.  If you feel tight roots along the edge, it is time to transplant your house plants into a larger pot. (Click here to learn how to repot bound house plants.)
  4. Did you choose good-quality potting soil? Good-quality potting soil should be lightweight, porous, and have premium ingredients, such as peat moss, coir, compost, perlite, and added fertilizer. We recommend Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix for house plants.
  5. Is your potting soil more than three-years-old? If so, replant your house plants in fresh potting mix (not a problem in your case).
  6. Do you feed your house plants? Tropical foliage plants, such as prayer plant (Maranta leuconeura) and spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), should either be fed with a continuous-release fertilizer, which usually feeds plants for up to six months, or regularly fed with a water-soluble fertilizer.
  7. Are you house plants growing irregularly, are they one-sided, or are their leaves elongated and thin? If so, they may be getting too little light. Be sure to provide them with bright, filtered sunlight for good growth.

I hope this information helps and your plants really begin to grow.

Happy house plant growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

 

How Do I Stop Peach Leaf Curl?

Peach leaf curl (Image by Giancarlo Dessì)

“What is the best way to keep curly leave off of my peach trees?” Question from Craig of Big Bar, California

Answer: Peach leaf curl is caused by the fungal disease Taphrina deformans. It causes infected peach leaves to thicken, turn shades of pale green, yellow, and red, and become curled and distorted. Eventually, the leaves will drop prematurely. On occasion,  flowers and fruit will show curling and spotting. Badly infected peach trees can also exhibit stem dieback.

Wet springs are sure to cause serious leaf curl symptoms on infected trees. There are several cultural and safe chemical means of controlling peach leaf curl disease. These include:

  1. Apply a dormant oil fungicide spray in late fall, in late winter before the trees leaf out, and again after they begin to leaf out in spring. If the spring is unusually wet, apply an additional copper-based fungicide spray through spring during a dry spell. (Click here to read more about dormant oil sprays.)
  2. Moist spring air between the temperatures of 40 degrees F and 86 degrees F encourages the onset of the disease. Watch for leaf-curl signs when weather conditions are favorable, and spray with a Bordeaux mixture fungicide of copper sulfate (CuSO4) and slaked lime (Ca(OH)2) as soon as they appear.
  3. During the growing months, continue to spray with a Bordeaux mixture fungicide. This fungicide is effective and approved for organic growing.
  4. Remove badly infected or dying stems with clean shears or loppers as you see them.

Repeat treatment yearly as needed, especially in moist years, to overcome this common fungal disease of peaches.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Why Is My Lavender Dying?

“This is the 2nd lavender I am having problems growing.  I can pull up part of it like it’s rotting.  What am I doing wrong?  There is another Lavender about 3 feet away that is looking great.” Question from Jacklyn  of Portland, Oregon

Answer: When lavender (Lavandula spp.) struggles, it is almost always due to a problem with soil quality and drainage. If fungal rot has taken hold, it is definitely caused by excess soil moisture. The frequent rains of the Pacific Northwest make it even more important to give your lavender very sharply drained soil. The difference between soil from one garden spot to another can be quite dramatic, even if they are only 3 feet away.

Lavenders naturally grow along sunny uplands with very well-drained soil, and they require full sun. If the soil is too moist and does not drain fast enough, rot will take hold. I encourage you to read our article titled, Soil Matters to Lavender; it will give you all of the information you need to properly amend your soil for lavender growing. You might also consider growing lavender in large containers and cutting their mix with part Black Gold All Purpose Mix and part Black Gold Cactus Mix. Topping the pots off with decorative pebbles would also be helpful.

I hope that these tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Are Grow Bags Good For Growing Vegetables?

“Are grow bags good for growing a vegetable garden and how long do they last?” Question from Erin of Kirkwood, Missouri

Answer: I have used grow bags and found that they are very good for vegetable growing. Grow bags are inexpensive, remain aerated, and provide a lot of space for plant growth. The life of each will depend on the manufacturer. Smart Pots is one of the best manufacturers of grow bags, and their products last from three to five years, according to their website. Grow bags will not last as long as a traditional raised bed, but they are reasonably priced and offer an easy way to test out raised bed gardening without the high cost. I recommend them

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

My Dry Potting Soil Won’t Take Up Water. What Do I Do?

“What should I do when potting soil becomes water repellent, and I don’t have anything big enough to dunk my pots in?” Question from Ethan the Rosarian

Answer: It is very frustrating when potting soil gets so dry that it resists taking up water. We add natural & organic wetting agents to our soils to discourage this from happening, but it can still be a problem if the soil becomes completely parched. Thankfully, there is one method that will consistently rewet super dry potting soil; wetting and mixing it with very warm or hot water and then hand turning and mixing it (be sure to wear water-impermeable gloves). The heat helps the peat and compost easily take up water again. It is the most effective way to get super dry potting soil to fully imbibe water again. Just be sure to let it cool before planting.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do I Keep Mushrooms from Growing In My Mulch?

Pine needles or pine straw mulch do not encourage mushroom growth.

“I buy fairly expensive mulch each year but continually experience mushrooms growing in it.  What causes this and is there anything, (non-toxic), I can use on the mulch to stop mushrooms from growing?” Question from Diane of Newark, Ohio

Answer: Traditional bark mulch is the perfect medium for mushroom growth, especially if it’s kept moist. The job of mushrooms and toadstools is to break down forest detritus, such as old trees, bark, and leaves. The main thing that you can do to stop mushrooms from growing in your mulch is to switch to a different type of mulch that does not encourage mushroom growth.

Organic Mushroom-Free Mulch Options

Mulches that are more acid are less apt to discourage mushroom growth. Two of the easiest to find and most reliable are pine straw or pine needles and pine bark nuggets. Pine straw is purchased in bales and makes a very attractive garden mulch. Pine bark chunks are a reddish color and slow to break down. Another organic option would be the application of screened compost, which is finer and breaks down more quickly.

Stone mulches are another option. Please click here to read a full article about all types of mulches and garden top dressings.

Happy Gardening,

Jessie

This bed is covered with a thick layer of pine straw,

How Can I Protect My Potatoes From Cut Worms?

“What is the best way to organically protect potatoes from the fat, grey larvae that wiped out my potatoes last year? I forget the bug’s name, but I looked it up last year. My organic gardening book said to use bran bits and molasses.” Question from Kit of Fairless Hills, Pennsylvania

Answer: I think your pest is the cutworm. Cutworms (Agrotis spp.) are the destructive caterpillars of nocturnal moths, and there are many kinds that attack practically every vegetable crop, including potatoes. Cutworms are fat, gray and curl into a C-shape when disturbed. They tend to feed along the ground at night and are called “cut” worms because of their ability to cut off seedlings and small stems. They will also eat into tubers, roots, and fruits. Several cultural steps and products can help control them.

Cultural Steps to Stop Cutworms

Weeds are a cutworm’s first food, so keep your beds weed-free. Tilling has also be shown to smother and kill cutworms early in the season, so consider tilling your beds under before planting your potatoes. Placing plastic collars around the base of plants has also been shown to ward off cutworms. And, sprinkling a layer of food-grade diatomaceous earth around the bases of plants has also been shown to help. Diatomaceous earth has sharp points that we can’t feel, but these cut into the flesh of soft-bodied caterpillars.

Hand-picking also helps. Cutworms tend to hang out below plants in shady spots during the day. Look for them, and smash or drown them in a glass of water for easy removal.

Pesticides to Stop Cutworms

The use of molasses and bran traps appears to be one old-time method gardeners have used to kill cutworms. The theory is that cutworms are lured to the mix and trapped and/or damaged by the thick molasses. I cannot testify to this method, but I can advocate the use of BT (Bacillus thuringiensis), which is an all-natural insecticide approved for organic gardening. The beauty of BT is that it only damages harmful insects that chew on your plants. Bees and other beneficials are not impacted by BT.

Take some or all of these steps, and your cutworm troubles should be over.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What Are Good Garden Flowers for Partial Shade?

Nothing beats classic impatiens for color in shady gardens. (Image by Jessie Keith)

“What are the best flowering plants for a mostly shady spot with some morning sun?” Question from Brigitte of Arnold, Missouri

Answer: There are so many wonderful garden flowers that grow well in partial shade but can tolerate a little sun, too. Here is a good list of long-blooming perennials and annuals that will grow well in your area under these light conditions. All of the annuals are also great for containers. Before planting any of these in the garden, I recommend amending your soil with Black Gold Garden Soil, which feeds plants for up to 6 months. Black Gold Moisture Supreme Container Mix is recommended for potted specimens.

Annual Flowers for Shade

Endless™ Illumination Bush Violet thrives in partial sun or shade. (Image thanks to Proven Winners)

Begonias: You can’t go wrong with begonias, as long as you provide them with good moisture, especially through the hottest summer days. Two showy high performers are Bossa Nova® Red  Begonia and Illumination® Golden Picotee tuberous begonia. Classic wax begonias that you can purchase in flats at every garden center are also inexpensive and excellent.

Bush Violets (Browallia hybrids.): These annuals are just beginning to gain popularity due to their nonstop summer flowers. Try the true-blue Endless™ Illumination Bush Violet.

Classic Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana): Pick up a flat of impatiens at the garden center in your favorite color, and plant them for all-summer color.

New Guinea Impatiens (Impatiens hybrids): These impatiens are generally taller and tolerant of a little more sun than classic impatiens. One that I will be planting this year is the tangerine-orange Infinity® Orange. 

Torenia (Torenia hybrids): You cannot go wrong with any of the spreading torenia in the Summer Wave Series. They spread and bloom from late spring to frost. Summer Wave® Large Blue is probably my favorite.

Perennial Flowers for Shade

Pink Diamonds fern-leaved bleeding heart is a great shade flower. (Image thanks to Proven Winners)

Rozanne Hardy Geranium (Geranium ‘Rozanne’): Purplish-magenta flowers are produced by this hardy geranium throughout summer.

Pink Diamonds Fern-leaved Bleeding Heart (Dicentra hybrid): Standard varieties of this pretty woodland bloomer just flower in late spring or early summer, but ‘Pink Diamonds’ offers showy pink flowers all summer long.

Wild Blue Phlox (Phlox divaticata): Blooming in mid to late spring, wild blue phlox bears airy stems of five-petaled, pale violet-blue flowers that are visited by butterflies and long-tongued bees. The variety ‘Blue Moon’ has especially large flowers of violet-blue Plants will naturalize over time.

Foamflower (Tiarella spp.): These pretty perennials have attractive foliage and foamy flowers that appear in late spring. Try the new Proven Winners variety ‘Cutting Edge’.

Heuchera (Heuchera hybrids): Here’s another for both beautiful flowers and foliage. There are hundreds of varieties on the market with beautifully colored (gold, orange, burgundy, purple, red, etc.) and textured leaves and wands of colorful spring flowers. The variety Dolce® ‘Spearmint’ coral bells is a very strong bloomer. Terra Nova nurseries develops the most fantastic forms of this garden favorite.

Happy flower gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Can I Grow Artichokes in Zone 5?

“I live in zone 5B and was wondering if I can grow artichokes. If so, how would I go about doing that so that I can have edible flower buds? Thanks!” Question from Trish of Newton, New Jersey

Answer: It’s all about timing, choosing the right artichoke variety, and giving the plants good care.

  • Timing: Start your plants indoors from seed early–in February or March. Artichokes are very easy to start from seed, but they need lots of sun and have a tap root, so start them in a deeper pot–something no smaller than a 4-inch pot. Expect them to grow quickly.
  • Choosing the right variety: The only artichokes that northerners can successfully grow are those that bloom in the first year. Three good choices are ‘Colorado Star‘, ‘Tavor‘, and ‘Imperial Star‘.
  • Giving them good care: Full sun in a necessity. Plant your artichokes in a garden bed with quality soil that drains well. Amending your garden soil with Black Gold Garden Soil at planting time is recommended. Be sure not to overwater your plants; they like it on the dry side once they are established.

For all the details in between, please watch the Black Gold video about growing artichokes un North below.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Why Does My Aloe Have Black Spots?

“We live in South Florida (Miami). My daughter-in-law has planted an aloe plant in the ground.  It’s growing nicely but has black spots on it.  Should she be concerned?” Question from Brenda of Miami, Florida

Answer: Florida rains are too much for succulent Aloe (Aloe vera). It is a dryland plant from the Arabian Peninsula that is best suited for cultivation in Southern California and the American Southwest in the US. It requires dry, fast-draining soil, once established. Too much moisture stresses aloes and invites fungal disease. Black spots on the leaves are due to fungal disease, but there are several things you can do to stop its spread.

To grow aloe well where you live, it should be potted. Before potting up your aloe, remove the worst of the infected leaves; just cut them off. Choose a pot big enough to accommodate its root system that has drainage holes at the bottom. Your aloe will need very fast-draining soil, such as Black Gold Cactus Mix. When you are ready to transplant, dig the aloe from the soil, remove the excess soil from its roots, and plant it in the pot with fresh mix. Finally, water it in lightly, and once its foliage is dry, spray it with a natural & organic, copper-based fungicide (click here for an example).

Place your potted aloe in a sunny to partially sunny spot under an eave or covered patio where it will not get rain. This will allow you to water it as needed. I recommend watering no more than twice a month, and water it from the base while being sure to keep its foliage dry.

From there, your aloe should thrive!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist