Plants are the lens Jessie views the world through because they’re all-sustaining. (“They feed, clothe, house and heal us. They produce the air we breathe and even make us smell pretty.”) She’s a garden writer and photographer with degrees in both horticulture and plant biology from Purdue and Michigan State Universities. Her degrees were bolstered by internships at Longwood Gardens and the American Horticultural Society. She has since worked for many horticultural institutions and companies and now manages communications for Sun Gro Horticulture, the parent company of Black Gold. Her joy is sharing all things green and lovely with her two daughters.
“How do I know when to get a bigger pot for my jade plant?” Question from Grady of Akron, Ohio
Answer: There are two ways to tell if your jade plant (Crassula ovata) has outgrown its pot:
The plant has become top-heavy
The roots have densely grown to the pot walls
You can tell if the roots have densely grown to the pot walls by feeling down into the soil. You will be able to feel the roots. Another test is to gently lift the plant from the pot to see if the root mass stays together. If it does, it’s time to repot.
The best time to repot a jade is in spring before the plant starts to actively grow. Choose a pot that is an inch or two larger than the previous one. Gently loosen the root ball and replant your jade in Black Gold Cactus Mix, which is custom-made for succulents. This is also a good time to blend in a slow-release fertilizer formulated for succulents. Fill in around the base and edges with the new mix, and water until the bottom saucer is filled. Then keep the soil lightly moist, allowing the plant to dry between watering.
“Any tips on bringing tropical plants indoors during the winter season? They always end up getting buggy.” Question from Chris of Orange, Connecticut
ANSWER: Thanks for the excellent question. It’s always nice to bring tropical house plants outdoors in summer. They thrive in the natural light, humidity, and warm weather, but they also attract pests. These pests are less of a problem outdoors because natural predators and a wider array of food sources (plants) keep their populations low. Once you bring them inside, their populations boom and food sources are limited. Without management, they can decimate house plants in no time.
Four precautions must be taken to stop pesky insect hitchhikers before you bring your tropicals back indoors for winter. (These precautions do not apply to extra troublesome mealybugs and scale insects, which generally require tougher measures, like a systemic insecticide, to tackle.)
Wash all leaves well. Start by spraying them all over with a strong stream of water from a spray nozzle, and wipe the leaves and stems down. Finally, thoroughly spray them with insecticidal soap. (You can also remove any dead leaves or unhealthy looking growth at this time.)
Remove and replenish the top 2 inches of potting soil to catch any pests hanging out in the upper soil layer.
Wash the plant’s saucer and pot exterior well.
Give your plants the correct moisture, light, and fertilizer to help them resist any potential pests, and keep a lookout for any lingering pests, especially in the first month after bringing them back inside. Use more insecticidal soap, as needed.
“I would very much appreciate an answer to my question… specifically… which of your Black Gold soil products contain perlite/vermiculite as I have learned this is best [for fungus gnat problems]. I am also aware that organic soil may perpetuate the fungus gnat problem as well. Since I have been having a terrible problem with fungus gnats as a result of having many plants, I need soil which would not promote these flies. I have eliminated all with the use of sand but must soon do replanting and am apprehensive about purchasing the wrong type of soil. After having read that peat moss is not the best for this problem, I would like to know which of your soils you would recommend.” Question from Barbara
Answer: Fungus gnats are so annoying with their root-eating larvae and pesky adults! They are a common problem that most indoor gardeners experience. They come in through open windows or doors, open potting soil packages, or newly potted plants.
Fungus gnat management is a cultural matter and not soil dependent. All potting soils must contain organic matter, be porous, and hold water well for effective root growth, and any soil that’s moist and high in organic matter will attract fungus gnats. But, don’t despair! Follow these simple cultural guidelines, and you can easily stop fungus gnats from breeding on the surface of your potting soils.
Fungus Gnat Deterrents
First, you need to know what deters fungus gnats:
Dry soils;
Fast-draining soils with inorganic additives, like perlite, vermiculite, and sand;
Inorganic soil covers, like pebbles, coarse sand, chicken grit, or diatomaceous earth (Some swear by the gnat-killing power of diatomaceous earth!);
Pyrethrin sprays approved for organic gardening.
Fungus Gnats Management
Now that you know what fungus gnats dislike, let’s talk management. The yucky larvae feed on plant roots and soil surface algae only in the first 1 to 1.5 inches of surface soil, so this is your management target area. They also breed quickly, going from eggs to adults in as fast as 17 days, depending on the temperature (they like warmth). Follow these home integrated pest management (IPM) steps, and you should see results quickly:
Why wait for flowering house plants to bloom for indoor color when you can have plants that always look vivid and dramatic? Some have foliage that’s so colorful their leaves look like a Mardi Gras parade. Just a few pots will bring dazzling delight to any room with good light.
These rainbow house plants come from tropical or subtropical regions and grow best in rooms with good humidity and warmth. Plant them in premium potting soil that holds water well. Then water and feed them, keep their leaves clean and sparkling, and they’ll paint living spaces with spirit-lifting color. The hottest of the rainbow hotties include the following bold house plants.
Rainbow House Plants
Jacob’s Coat
Jacob’s coat ‘Mosaica’ is a riot of color and grows well as a house plant or seasonal ornamental.
A native of the Pacific Islands, Jacob’s Coat (Acalypha wilkesiana) is a tropical shrub that makes a wonderful potted house specimen. It has standout multicolored evergreen foliage that typically comes in shades of white, green, pink, and red. Choice selections include the pink-, peach-, green-, and purple-leaved ‘Mosaica’ and peach- and orange-hued ‘Tiki Peach Whirl’. The plants can grow quite large and should be pruned to size as needed.
Chinese Evergreen
‘Two-Tone Moonstone’ is one of many wildly colorful Chinese evergreens.
The brilliant leaves of Chinese evergreen (Agleonema spp.) are boldly colorful. These low, lush plants originate from the humid tropics and subtropics of Asia where they survive in the forest understory. Two of our favorites for color include ‘Two Tone Moonstone’, with its pink and white leaves speckled with green, and the poinsettia-like ‘Red Zircon’, which has crimson-red leaves edged in green.
Begonias
Begonia T REX™ ‘St. Nick is one of the thousands of different begonias with cheerful leaves. (Image thanks to Terra Nova Nursery)
The variety of colors that can appear in a single begonia leaf are truly impressive. Species extend from subtropical to tropical regions across the Americas, Africa, and Asia where they exist in moist, forested habitats. They have been intensively bred, resulting in thousands of impressive cultivars, such Begonia ‘Martha Stewart’ with its gold-, chartreuse- and russet-leaves, and Terra Nova’s T REX™ ‘St. Nick, with a purple- and red-centered leaves decorated with green and silvery white spotting. Another good pick from Terra Nova is Begonia SHADE ANGEL™ ‘Aurora’ with its lustrous leaves that have hints of silvery blue, lavender, raspberry pink, and ivory.
Croton
Croton ‘Mammy’ has the bonus of curly extravagant leaves.
The leaves of croton (Codiaeum variegatum) are arguably the most colorful and visually diverse of all the plants in this list. Natural populations exist in the South Pacific and Australia where they grow in open forests and shrublands. The lush, glossy-leaved plants can take a little less water and have brilliantly patterned leaves that may have mixed shades of yellow, red, purple, white, and green. Some are broad-leaved and others elongated. We like ‘Mrs. Iceton’, with leaves of deep purple, rose, green, and yellow, ‘Lauren’s Rainbow’, with elongated leaves of purple, orange, green, and yellow, and the compact ‘Mammy’ with its curly multi-colored leaves.
Rose-Painted Calathea
Rose-painted calathea ‘Princess Jessie’ loves shade and always looks lovely.
Native to the forests of Brazil, rose-painted calathea (Calathea roseopicta) has broad, striped leaves of green, ivory, and rose. The compact plants always look and grow well in low-light areas of the home. Try the dark green, rose, and ivory ‘Princess Jessie’ (a name I like very much).
Ti Tree
Few house plants are as electric as ti tree!
The upright, lance-shaped leaves of ti tree (Cordyline fruticosa) come in lots of brilliant tropical shades. Like croton, it comes from the South Pacific and adjacent Australia where it survives in drier tropical forests. Specimens develop woody, trunk-like bases over time. Give them bright light and large pots that will allow their roots to grow freely. For color, we like the purple and magenta ‘Ruby’, and the green-, yellow- and pink-leaved ‘Morning Sunshine’.
Tricolor Prayer Plant
As the name suggests, the low-growing tricolor prayer plant (Stromanthe ‘Triostar’) has three-colored, lance-shaped leaves with bold markings of cream, rosy purple, and green. It originates from Brazilian rain forests and requires sufficient moisture and humidity for good growth.
Caring for Tropical House Plants
Aside from bright filtered sunlight, warmth, and humidity, these tropicals need plenty of rich, moisture-holding soil to dig their roots into. At planting time, provide them with containers that are several inches larger than their root balls. Make sure the pots have drainage holes at the bottom and deep saucers to catch excess water. Two of the best Black Gold mixes for substantial water-holding ability are Black Gold Waterhold Cocoblend Potting Mix, which is OMRI Listed and contains coconut coir, and Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix, which is our #1 best seller for house plants of all kinds. Keep the potting mix evenly moist, never wet, and fertilize regularly with an all-purpose fertilizer. Slow-release fertilizers are easier to apply and time-saving.
A collection of these rainbow house plants will bring spectacular looks to any indoor space. Forget about flowers! Planting with indoor foliage is the best way for busy gardeners to achieve neverending color.
“I would like tips for Poinsettia care.” Question from Sandra Lee of Cottage Grove, Minnesota
Answer: Place your poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) in a location with direct sun or bright filtered sunlight and give it even moisture. Refrain from keeping its soil wet, which can stress plants out. Poinsettias are tender Mexican natives that grow as large, winter-blooming shrubs in their native homeland and require good warmth, especially from spring to fall.
General Poinsettia Care
If you don’t want to toss your poinsettia away after the holidays, you can continue to grow it as a house plant. Leaf drop is common in indoor-grown poinsettias that are given too little light or kept too dry. Low humidity can also cause stress and encourage spider mites. The key is giving them plenty of light and average, consistent moisture. Also, be sure to provide fertile, well-drained soil such as OMRI Listed Black Gold® Natural & Organic Potting Soil.
Getting Poinsettias to Rebloom
Getting poinsettias to rebloom isn’t always easy because flowering is triggered by daylight changes; the short days and long nights of winter induce flower bud development. The best method is to provide plants with ample and consistent natural daylight during the warm growing months, which will encourage them to adopt their natural blooming cycle. You can even bring them outdoors in the summer. Just be sure to clean them well before bringing them back indoors to avoid any hitchhiking pests. (Click here to learn how to clean your house plants before bringing them back indoors.)
Professional greenhouse growers actually manipulate the plants to bloom for the holidays by shading them during part of the day to mimic short days. They start this process around the autumnal equinox to get them blooming by the holidays. Flower set depends on night length, so keep poinsettias in total dark from 5 pm to 8 am. If it’s done right, they should be in full flower six to eight weeks after treatment. You can do this at home by placing them in a totally dark place during these periods of the day by placing them in a dark closet or covering them with an opaque black cloth from 5 pm to 8 am until bud set occurs. Otherwise, homegrown poinsettias will naturally rebloom sometime in mid to late-winter.
“What is the soil pH of Black Gold Natural and Organic Potting Soil?” Question from Michael of Pueblo, Colorado.
Answer: At production, the peat moss in our mixes has a pH range of 3.5-5.0, but we add liming agents to bring all of our potting mixes up to a more neutral pH range of 5.5-6.5. Keep in mind, mix pH will change depending on your growing environment, irrigation water, the fertilizer you use, and the plant species you grow. For a highly detailed article on managing mix pH, read the Sun Gro article titled Managing Low pH in Growing Media for Reliable Crop Performance.
“Does beer really kill slugs and snails and how? Also, what’s the best way to use it if it does?” Question from Greg of Olympia, Washington
Answer: Yes! Beer is a safe way to attract and kill slugs. The yeasty sweet smell lures them and the ethanol in the beer kills them, or they simply fall into the traps and drown. The key to a smart slug beer trap is covering it in a way that just targets the slugs that feast on your vegetables, hostas, and other favorite plants. (Other insects desirable critters may also be attracted to beer as well as the neighborhood dogs.)
How to Make a Slug-Only Beer Trap
Take an empty lidded plastic container headed for the recycling bin. (A large yogurt or cottage cheese container works well). Cut four elongated holes 3 inches up from the base of the container, so you have enough space to add the beer. Set the container down into the soil, so the holes are just at ground level. Fill the container with cheap beer (the sweeter the better) and the slugs will enter into a blissful demise. Large holes may be needed to accommodate snails.
“I seem to have a problem keeping my plants happy. What is a good amount of water for succulents?” Question from Becky of Cambridge, Nebraska
Answer: It depends on the time of year and climate. It is very easy to overwater indoor succulents, especially in the winter months. Overwatering leads to root and crown rot, real succulent killers.
Watering Succulents from Winter to Fall
In general, succulents require little to no water in winter. This mimics the natural dry season that they experience in the wild. During the growing months (spring through fall), give them limited water. I often water mine between two to four times a month, depending on how hot and dry it is. In drier weather, I water them well once a week, or four times a month.
“Can you propagate orchids? My orchid has another stem growing at the bottom and I am wondering if I cut it off if it will grow and how to do that?” Question from Krystal of Lincoln City, Oregon.
Answer: Orchids with pseudobulbs, like yours, can easily be divided when the plants reach a substantial size. These orchid types include lots of common household favorites, like Cattleya, Dendrobium, Epidendrum, Laelia, and Oncidium. But, based on your image, your orchid is not large enough to divide. A strong, flowering-sized division should have at least three to four pseudobulbs. (Click here to learn more about dividing orchids with pseudobulbs.)
Your happy orchid is producing strong roots that are growing beyond the pot, which is what it should do. When its roots greatly outgrow the pot (see image below), it will be time to replant your orchid into a large pot with fresh orchid bark and sphagnum moss. The best time to replant an orchid is when it is setting new growth, often in late winter. Never divide or repot an orchid when it is in full bloom! (Click here to learn more about repotting orchids like yours.) Once your orchid has at least six to eight bulbs, you can consider dividing it. I hope this helps.
Happy orchid growing!
Jessie Keith
Black Gold Horticulturist
Repot your orchids when their roots have overgrown the pots.
“How do I overwinter my fuchsia baskets?” Sherry from Camas, Washington
Answer: What a great question! Large, happy fuchsias are expensive, so it pays to overwinter them. You have two overwintering options:
Bring Your Fuchsia Indoors
Clean your fuchsia before bringing them indoors (click here to read how), and maintain them as house plants through winter. Place your baskets in a location with bright, filtered sunlight. Water the plants when the soil begins to dry in the upper 2 inches. If your home is cool, they will likely need less frequent watering. They are best fed with a slow-release fertilizer.
Fuchsias grow best in rooms with high humidity, so refrain from growing them near heating vents that will quickly dry their foliage and soil. Prune back any dead or dying branches, and keep a watch out for pests, such as white flies and spider mites. Treat them with insecticidal soap if they develop any pests (click here to learn more about house plant pest control).
Induce Dormancy or Semi-Dormancy
Most hybrid fuchsias are not cold hardy, aside from the reasonably hardy hummingbird fuchsia (Fuchsia magellanica), which survives to USDA Hardiness Zones 7-9. More tender varieties will go semi-dormant if maintained under temperatures between 36 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit–never lower. This is the most trouble-free way to store them through winter. Cut back the dead foliage in spring, and give them good care before taking them outdoors again. Spring is also the best time to upgrade them into new pots with fresh potting mix, such as Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix.
