Articles

What are Good Container Vegetables for Florida?

“What would be vegetables I can grow in containers in Zone 10b? Question from Susan of Pembroke Pines, Florida

Answer: Stick with warm-season vegetables, like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and eggplant, and give them extra care and water if you choose to plant them during the hottest times of the year.

The key to successful vegetable container gardening is starting with large containers, good mix, and choosing more compact vegetables better adapted to container culture. Plant them a quality potting mix that holds water really well, like Black Gold Waterhold Cocoblend, which is OMRI Listed for organic gardening. Water them daily (or twice daily on really hot days), and feed them with a quality fertilizer formulated for vegetables. (Click here to read our full article about growing vegetables in containers!)

I also encourage you to watch our gardening video about successfully growing tomatoes in containers (below).

Happy potted veggie growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

When Do I Cut Back Orchid Stems After They Bloom?

“Do I need to cut off the stems after my orchid flowers fall off or will new flowers grow on the stems next year?” Question from Bonnie of Young, Arizona

Answer: It depends on the health and blooming stage of the flowering stem. If the stem/s are still green, prune off the spent flowers to about 1-inch above the closest node on towards the bast of the stem; this may encourage further flowering. If your spike/spikes are beginning to turn brown, prune them all the way back to the base of the plant. Always use clean, sharp shears to prune off old stems, and sterilize the shears in a 10% bleach solution before pruning another orchid. This will reduce the risk of cross-contamination if one of your orchids happens to have a disease.

Always keep a lookout for keikis. On occasion, certain common orchids will develop little plantlets on their flowering stems, called keikis. These can be nurtured, removed, and replanted as entirely new plants! (Click here to learn more about keiki removal.)

Once your orchid has finished flowering, it needs a rest before it will bloom again. The length between blooming will depend on the type of orchid you are growing. But, in general, slightly decrease the growing temperature for the orchid, and give it good care and fertilization. (Click here to learn more about how to get certain orchids to rebloom.)

Please let me know if you have any additional questions about the specific orchids you are growing!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

I Need House Plants for Shade and Low Humidity!

“I have no sunlight in my home. I need plants that will thrive without direct sunlight. Any suggestions?” Question from Susan of Albuquerque, New Mexico

Answer: There are loads of low-light house plants that will thrive in indirect sun. Just be sure to set them all as close to a lit window as possible! Because of the dry air in your part of the country, I have also selected plants that will withstand low humidity. Here are some good picks for you to try:

  1. Aspidistra

    Cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior): As the name suggests, this large-leaved house plant is tough as nails. It will grow well in low light, low humidity, and can take irregular watering.

  2. Fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata): Large, glossy, unusual leaves make this indoor tree a very attractive addition to the home. It is also a tough African native that likes partial shade and intermittent watering. Give this one a larger pot to grow in and space because it can easily reach several feet.
  3. Dragon Tree (Dracaena marginata): This small, understory tree from Madagascar can take low light, drought, and dry air. Choose a pretty variety, like ‘Colorama’, which has red-striped leaves.
  4. Sanseveria

    Snake Plant (Sansevieria spp.): Also called mother-in-law’s-tongue, this succulent African native makes a beautiful addition to homes and will take low light and low humidity. For best looks give it filtered sun, room temperature, well-drained soil, and once-weekly water (twice-monthly water in winter). (Click here to learn more about growing snake plant.)

  5. ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia): This is another semi-succulent African beauty with tropical good looks that grows very well in low light and drier air. Care for it as you would snake plant.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What’s the Best Fertilizer for Vegetable Containers?

“What kind of fertilizer should I use to grow vegetables in a big container pot with potting soil?” Question from Susan of Union City, Pennsylvania

Answer: For containers, I always opt for a slow-release fertilizer that will feed plants well all season long. Choose one that is formulated for vegetables, fruits, and herbs. Most of these will have either a balanced N-P-K (Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium) ratio, such as 10-10-10, or a ratio that’s more geared towards foliage growth (12-10-5) or fruiting (4-6-3). Just as a reminder, nitrogen encourages foliage growth, phosphorous generally supports flower, fruit, and root development, and potassium supports overall growth. Read the label and make sure the fertilizer you choose will accommodate the vegetables you want to grow. If you garden organically, pick an OMRI Listed fertilizer.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

How to Start African Violets from Cuttings

“I want to start some special African violets for friends. How do I divide or take cuttings from them? Question from Anna of Cheboygan, Michigan

Answer: You will be happy to learn that African violets are one of the easiest houseplants to propagate! The process does not even require rooting hormone.

Starting African Violets from Cuttings

Newly stuck African violet leaves in vermiculite.

All you have to do is take leaf cuttings from African violets and give them good care until they root and sprout. Simply cut healthy leaves from the base of the petiole (stem) and insert them in moist Black Gold Vermiculite. Maintain high humidity and keep them out of direct sunlight. After a month or so they should root. Then within a couple more weeks, new leaves will slowly develop from the petiole base. Once the sprouting African violets look like small plants, move them into small pots filled with Black Gold African Violet Mix. They should start growing happily straight away! I also encourage you to watch our video on African violet care below, to ensure your little plants grow to their fullest.

Happy African violet growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How to Rid an Organic Garden of White Mold

“What is the best way to get rid of white mold in an organic garden? I pulled the plants this summer but I’m curious if there’s something I can do if it happens next year.” Question from Lynda of West Warwick, Rhode Island

Answer: White mold (Sclerotinia spp.) is a real problem, particularly with legumes (plants in the bean family), sunflowers, and many veggies and bedding plants. When it takes hold, it can cause flower blight, stem rot, fruit rot, and crown rot. If you adopt a multi-step, integrated approach to the problem, you can tackle it without the use of fungicides.

This fungal pathogen overwinters in the soil, so don’t expect it to disappear quickly. Here are several steps that will help you manage it next year.

  1. Clean all plant debris from your vegetable bed this fall.
  2. Space your vegetable rows and vegetable plants widely next year to increase aeration and hasten foliage and soil drying. If you avoid dense plantings of susceptible plants, you will discourage the disease from taking hold.
  3. Drip irrigate your plants and prolong the time between watering them; let your soil have a longer drying period between watering to discourage the disease and its spread.
  4. Rotate with non-susceptible crops, like corn, alfalfa, and wheat cover crops.
  5. Till the crop area after growing and harvesting susceptible crops, and refrain from tilling the area after planting non-susceptible crops.
  6. Control weeds well. Applying black row cloth can help control weeds and the spread of the disease.
  7. Keep a lookout for the disease and remove infected plants as you see them.

I hope these tips help! Good luck in controlling your white mold problem. To learn more about this disease, click here to visit The American Phytopathological Society’s page about it.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

Succulent House Plants: Winter Light, Water, and Temperature

“My cactus and succulents are indoors and under lights all year. Should I try to give them a dormancy period with less light and lower room temps in the winter?” Question from Kendra of Humboldt, Iowa

Answer: It looks like your succulents have plenty of light! They look great. Keep them under lights for winter, but feel free to turn them off at night. If you want to save money on lighting bills, consider bringing them outdoors in the summer months, after the threat of frost has passed. They will thrive in the natural sunlight. Just be sure to check them for insects before bringing them back indoors in fall; cleaning the plants with insecticidal soap is also a protective measure.

When it comes to winter growing temperatures, cacti and succulents do like it a little cooler. Maintaining a room temperature between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit would be ideal.

Water less, too. Indoor succulents tend to require little to no water during the winter months. This mimics the winter dry season that they experience in their natural habitats, so be sure to water them very sparingly during the cold season. It also pays to plant them in a premium, fast-draining mix, like Black Gold Cactus Mix.

I hope this answers your questions!

Happy succulent growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

Light for Indoor Succulents

“How much sun (if any) do indoor succulents need?” Question from Diane of Palmyra, New Jersey

Answer: Most popular indoor succulents originate from semi-desert to desert environments where they experience hot sun during the day and cool temperatures at night. That means they tend to grow best if provided bright sunlight. In some instances, certain succulents also grow well in partial sun or bright, filtered light. One of the best able to withstand lower light is Sanseveria (Click here to learn more about growing Sansevieria). Foxtail agave (Agave attenuata, photo above), giant gasteria (Gasteria acinacifolia), and torch aloe (Aloe aristata) are three more succulents that will grow well in lower light.

Indoor succulents also tend to require little to no water during the winter months. This mimics the winter dry season that they experience in their natural habitats, so be sure to water them very sparingly during the cold season. It also pays to plant them in a premium, fast-draining mix, like Black Gold Cactus Mix!

Happy succulent growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

When Can You Start Pruning Lilacs?

“How long should you let your lilac bush grow after planting before starting to trim and shape it the way you want?” Question from Traci of Ithaca, Michigan

Answer: It all depends on your size preference for your lilac. Aside from pruning off dead or damaged branches or spent blooms, you can select prune your lilac to meet the desired height and to remove unwanted suckers at any time, so long as your plant is robust and growing well. “Select pruning” means taking away ungainly, unproductive, or overgrown branches for plant health and to reach the desired shrub size. You may cut branches all the way down to the ground or partially cut them to meet a specific height. Never shear a lilac! (Click here for a full lilac-pruning guide.)

Common lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) reach can between 8 to 15 feet. Most gardeners plant them in areas where they have lots of space to grow and don’t start select pruning until they are at least 6 feet. Shrubbier lilacs, like the Korean lilac (Syringa pubescens subsp. patula), may reach between 4 to 10 feet, and most gardeners don’t start select pruning them until they become quite robust and bushy.

The best time to prune a lilac is in early summer, right after they flower. This is because they set new flower buds shortly after flowering, and you don’t want to cut away next year’s blooms!

I hope this helps. Happy lilac pruning!

 

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

 

Overwintering Calla Lilies

“I am hoping to overwinter my calla lilies in the cool of my basement! Will this work and any advice?” Question from Robin Van Vleet of Warner, New Hampshire

Answer: Excellent question, Robin! Calla lilies (Zantedeschia spp.) originate from southern Africa and naturally tend to bloom from late spring to midsummer, though they can be forced to bloom at other times of the year. Wintertime is their dry period, so storing them in a cool dark place through the cold months is the right idea. Here are three overwintering options, depending on how your callas are growing.

Container-Grown Callas

If your callas are container grown, simply place them in a cool, dark place, such as your basement, through much of the early winter months. During this time, refrain from watering them. In mid to late winter, bring them back upstairs to a full to partial sun location in your home, and begin watering them once again. They should start putting forth new foliage fairly quickly. When new foliage appears, begin to feed them every two weeks with liquid fertilizer formulated for flowers.

Garden-Grown Callas

If your callas were growing in your garden, dig their rhizomes (roots) when fall frosts start to threaten. Place them in a container of potting mix or compost, and store them in a cool, dark place, such as your basement, through winter. If you want to plant them outdoors in spring as lush plants, pot them up in late winter and give them indoor care as specified above. After the threat of frost has passed, you can plant them outdoors. Another option is to place them in well-amended soil outdoors after the threat of frost has passed, which will result in later-flowering plants.

Greenhouse-Grown Callas

A third option is to maintain your callas in a cool greenhouse or conservatory through winter if you have one. If growing callas in a winter greenhouse, water them very little through the heart of the winter months.

I hope that this calla-storing information is helpful!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist