Food-Gardening Lessons From A Wartime Victory Garden

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Author: JESSIE KEITH

Plants are the lens Jessie views the world through because they’re all-sustaining. (“They feed, clothe, house and heal us. They produce the air we breathe and even make us smell pretty.”) She’s a garden writer and photographer with degrees in both horticulture and plant biology from Purdue and Michigan State Universities. Her degrees were bolstered by internships at Longwood Gardens and the American Horticultural Society. She has since worked for many horticultural institutions and companies and now manages communications for Sun Gro Horticulture, the parent company of Black Gold. Her joy is sharing all things green and lovely with her two daughters.

How to Amend Around Mulched Flower Beds

“On an annual rotation, what do I do with my mulch? Do I strip and reapply every year? How do I amend my soil in a flower bed that already has perennials? Do I  just topdress? Or dig around the perennials and mix with native soils?” Question from Tim of Springfield, Pennsylvania

Answer: Good questions! I am assuming that you apply bark mulch, which is generally slow to break down, especially if less processed when applied or comprised of cedar or other evergreen barks. I will also assume that you apply it at the standard depth of at least 2 to 3 inches.

You have several options for improving the soil of your mulched annual and perennial beds.

Annual Beds

  1. Switch to a mulch that feeds the soil. Bark mulch is notorious for binding essential nutrients, namely nitrogen, and breaks down too slowly to rapidly feed your soil. Mulching with composted bark, compost, or leaf mulch (all of which quickly integrate into the soil) will do the duel job of protecting against weeds and feeding your soil. (OMRI Listed Black Gold Garden Compost Blend is an excellent choice for the soil surface and as an amendment.)
  2. If you want to stick with bark mulch for your annual beds, do a soil re-haul in the spring, once your soil is warm enough to work. Neatly rake your mulch onto a tarp and generously and deeply work compost and peat moss into your beds. Work it down with a garden fork or tiller to a depth of at least 8 inches. This is also a great time to add slow-release flower fertilizer for the season. Then plant your annuals first and re-mulch afterward to avoid getting mulch into the planting holes.

Perennial Beds

  1. Once again, consider switching to a mulch type that better feeds your soil and garden plants, and be sure to fertilize your perennials yearly.
  2. If you want to stick with bark mulch, you could leave 6-inch a ring around each perennial and apply either compost or earthworm castings on the surface annually in the spring. Even when applied to the soil surface, the quick-to-decompose organic matter will feed your plants and soil microorganisms.
  3. If you are really concerned about the soil quality of your perennial beds, do a soil re-haul in the spring. Start by digging your perennials (this is also a great time to divide them and/or redesign your beds), then follow the same steps listed above. Perennials tend to set deeper roots than annuals, so it pays to amend the soil a bit deeper.

I hope that these tips are helpful!

 

Happy Gardening!

 

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

Jade Jewels: Remarkable Jade Plants for Connoisseurs

Golden jade has remarkable sunset-hued leaves. (Image thanks to Mountain Crest Gardens)

A mature, well-formed jade (Crassula ovata) is an arboreal treasure of a house plant worthy of indoor garden ardor. Its thick, trunk-like stems ascend to a rounded top with glistening clusters of fleshy, jade-colored leaves. In winter, happy plants will do double duty by producing a wealth of starry white flowers. But, succulent connoisseurs know there are other remarkable crassulas that take everyday jades to a whole new level!

Growing Jades

Excess summer heat and sun can cause stress, resulting in orange-brown tinged foliage.

All jades are tough—a testament to their droughty African origins. They grow best in filtered or partial sunlight, and during the winter months, they require low water to mimic the dry winters of their home country. Plant them in pots of porous soil with moderate organic matter and excellent drainage. Black Gold Cactus Mix is the perfect medium for jades to dig their roots into.

In the summer, bring jades outdoors to bask in the natural heat and filtered sunlight. (If you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 9-11, you can grow them outdoors year round). Give them moderate water, and be sure to allow the soil to become quite dry between watering. Avoid placing them in full hot sun, because this can cause sunscald and heat stress, resulting in orange-brown-tinged foliage.

Before bringing them back inside in fall, check them from scale insects and mealybugs. Washing and spraying the stems and leaves with insecticidal soap will help. It’s also good to remove and replace the top inch of potting medium to remove any pests that may be harboring there.

Remarkable Jades

Golden jade

Golden Jade (Crassula ovata ‘Hummel’s Sunset’): You can’t miss golden jade, with its leaves in sunset shades of green, red, yellow, and orange. It reaches two to three feet high when mature, and its leaves are most colorful when placed in bright filtered sunlight. Golden jade is relatively slow growing and has white winter flowers.

Gollum jade

Gollum Jade (Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’): As the name suggests, the leaves of ‘Gollum’ jade look like creepy, tubular, suction-cup fingers of green with red edges. The plants age to a sturdy four feet tall and always receive comments from passersby. If you love jades, you have to grow this one!

Ripple jade (Image thanks to Mountain Crest Gardens)

Ripple Jade (Crassula arborescens subsp. undulatifolia): This more compact jade reaches just one foot high and has undulating leaves of bright blue-green. It will grow quickly if placed in bright light and bears starry white winter flowers.

Silver dollar jade

Silver Dollar Jade (Crassula arborescens): The extra-large, silvery leaves of this jade plant are edged in red. Mature specimens reach a bushy two feet high and wide, making them just the right size for potted indoor specimens. Their starry, pink and white winter flowers play off the brightly colored leaf edges.

Tricolor jade (Image thanks to Cologne University)

Tricolor Jade (Crassula ovata ‘Tricolor’): Bright variegated leaves of green, yellow, and ivory are the star of this unique jade plant. It reaches over one foot high and bears white flowers in winter. Like most variegated plants, it is slower growing than standard Crassula ovata.

Sources

When in full flower, jade plants look extra pretty.

Mountain Crest Gardens has a wonderful array of jades for online purchase, and their plants always arrive at your door fresh and healthy. You can also check quality garden centers or plant nurseries in your area that carry interesting selections of succulents.

Give your connoisseur jades good care, and they will be with you for a long time. Specimens have been known to live for as many as 100 years! They are true house plant investments.

Flowering Shrubs for Minnesota

“What is a good flowering shrub for Zone 4? Question from Sandra Lee of Cottage Grove, Minnesota

Answer: There are so many great flowering shrubs that grow beautifully in USDA Hardiness Zone 4 winters! Here are three super hardy options to try:

1. Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens, USDA Hardiness Zones 3-9): There are lots of wonderful varieties of this summer-flowering beauty, and the shrubs grow well in partial shade and full sun. Two of the best to try are the giant-white-flowered Incrediball® and more compact, mauve-flowered Invincibelle Mini Mauvette®.

2. Potentilla (Potentilla fruticosa hybrids, USDA Hardiness Zones 2-7): These sun-loving, summer-flowering shrubs are long blooming and have flowers in yellow, white, or pink. They are also tolerant of drier, more well-drained soils. The golden-flowered ‘Happy Face‘ is a good performer.

3. Hardy Roses (Rosa hybrids): Loads of shrub roses really tough it out way up north. Those in the Oso Easy® group of roses are extra hardy and very high performing. There are lots to choose from with flowers of rose-red, peach, white, and pink. Try the super hardy (Zones 3-9), pink-flowered Oso Easy® Fragrant Spreader , which is fragrant, pretty, and spreads to form a low mass of roses from early summer to fall. The double red Oso Easy Double Red, is slightly less hardy, surviving in Zone 4a winters.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Unproductive Pumpkins

“I’d like some info on why my pumpkin seeds didn’t produce pumpkins. There were lots of leaves and flowers, but no pumpkins. I planted them plenty early enough, and there wasn’t any frost. The leaves just started dying out by mid-September.” Question from Kimberly of Vancouver, Washington

Answer: Sorry to hear your pumpkin vines did not produce pumpkins! First, make sure that all of their growing requirements are met. Pumpkins need to be planted in spring, after the threat of frost has passed, for fall harvest. Full sun, summer warmth, and space (a 12’ x 12′ to 15 x 15’ patch) are essential for vining varieties. It pays to plant them on berms (click here to read all about berming) amended with lots of organic matter. Feed them with a fertilizer formulated for vegetables, and be sure they get plenty of moisture (probably not a problem in Vancouver).

If all their growing requirements were met, there are four more possible reasons why your pumpkins did not develop.

1. Lack of pollinators

Pumpkins have two flower types, male and female, and these are bee-pollinated. The male flowers are produced first, followed by the female blooms, which have small, underdeveloped pumpkins at the base of each flower. If you see female blooms on your plants, and no bees, this could be the problem. Without pollination, the developing fruits just shrivel and drop. If you think this is the cause of your troubles, try a hand-pollination method. Simply use a small brush to move pollen from a newly opened male flower to a newly opened female flower. It’s fast, easy, and will yield pumpkins!

2. Time

Lots of pumpkin varieties require good growing conditions for more than 100 days to produce. Early pumpkins are a good choice for those living further north. The varieties ‘Flatso‘ (85 days to harvest), ‘Chucky‘ (85 days to harvest), and ‘Cinnamon Girl‘ (85 days to harvest) are all early to produce.

3. Disease

Some fungal diseases and disorders will cause the fruit to shrivel up at various stages of development if you don’t think pollinators are your problem. (Click here to read a great article from Purdue University about pumpkin diseases and solutions.)

4. Squash Vine Borers

These pests bore into the stems of pumpkins and other squash and cause whole vines to die back because they are cut off their water. Usually, with vining pumpkins, some of the vines survive because they root along the ground and survive, so this is often less of a problem. Nonetheless, click here to read a great Q&A about squash vine borers to determine if this is your problem.

Better luck with your pumpkins next year!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Useful Plants for Wet Soils

“Getting ready to move to an 8-acre farm in Kansas. The spot we picked for the garden is about 2 acres. It’s all sunny. My question is that about 20% is kinda shady and is always wet. Is there anything that can be planted there? Want something that can grow in the damp soil and kinda shady. It gets sun but not like the rest of where we want to plant our garden. Think there might be a natural spring running underground. That’s the only spot on the land that has sun. Mature Pecan trees planted throughout the property. Don’t want to get rid of the trees. Need help with suggestions on what to plant in the wet area if anything. Thank you for your advice in advance.” Question from Carrie in Belton, Missouri

Answer: I will give you two lists of planting options for your spring-fed growing area: (1) edibles and (2) flowers adapted to wet growing areas.

Edibles for Wet Soils

A non-invasive tender edible that grows well in the wet ground and partial sun is taro (Colocasia esculenta); start it at the beginning of the warm season and harvest it before frost. Perennial herbs for wet soils include peppermint (Mentha x piperita) and native wild mint (Mentha arvensis); both are fragrant and delicious. Fruits that grow well in moist to wet soils include Canadian elderberries (Sambucus nigra ssp. canadensis) and common serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea). There are also several Asian vegetables that thrive in wet soils, like water spinach (Ipomoea aquatica) and butterbur (Petasites japonicus), but these are very invasive in the US, so I don’t recommend growing them. 

Flowers for Wet Soils

Cardinal flower is one of many perennials for wet soils. (Image by Jessie Keith)

Beautiful flowers that thrive in wet soils and partial sun include cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis), great blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica), swamp sunflower (Helianthus salicifolius), and crimson-eyed rose-mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos). These are just a few to consider for your 2-acre spot. Click here to read more about Perennial Flowers for Wet Places.

Good luck cultivating your new farm!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How to Avoid Buying Poached Rare Native Plants

“I have read about succulents in California being poached for the house plant market. How can I be sure the plants I buy are not stolen?” Isaac from San Francisco, California

Answer: Plant theft/poaching from federal, state, and private natural lands is not a new thing, even though it is highly illegal. Rare and expensive native orchids, spring wildflowers, carnivorous plants, and herbs (like ginseng) have all been subject to poaching. Now native succulents are the new thing.

You are right to worry and seek legit nursery-grown stock over illegally wild-collected plants that may have made their way into the hands of less reputable plant sellers. It’s a heartbreaking phenomenon because so many wild plants and plant communities are in danger of disappearing. Ignorance and greed drive plant poachers.

Here are five steps to ensuring a rare native plant is not poached:

  1. Before buying any native plant, ask whether it is nursery grown. All nursery-grown stock will have a printed tag indicating the source and grower.
  2. Buy your succulents or natives directly from the grower. (We recommend Mount Crest Gardens for native succulents!)
  3. Join a succulent plant group and get divisions of native succulents from group members.
  4. Contact a regional native plant society, like the California Native Plant Society, to get the names of reputable native plant nurseries.
  5. Avoid buying rare native plants from anyone who cannot tell you the source of the plant.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

The Best Vegetables and Fruits for Indoor Growing

“What are the best vegetables and/or fruits that I can grow indoors?” Question from Dolores of Robinsonville, Mississippi

Answer: You are in luck! We have several Sun Gro articles on these very subjects. Salad greens are the easiest veggies to grow indoors. To learn more, read our article titled, Windowsill Salad Greens for Indoor Growing (click here to read the article). You can also grow compact peppers, tomatoes, and loads of different herbs inside. Learn more about how to grow these edibles in our article, Windowsill Herbs, and Vegetables for Kitchen Gardeners (click here to read the article).

You can also try your hand at growing indoor fruit if you have enough sun for them. Dwarf citrus grows well indoors, which we detail in our article Growing Lemons, Oranges, and Other Citrus Indoors (click here to read the article). You can also grow Dwarf Tropical Fruits Indoors (click here to read the article).

The key to growing any veggies or fruits indoors is making sure they get lots of sunlight and care.

Happy indoor growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

I Need Colorful Flowers for Deep Shade

Tradescantia ‘Sweet Kate’ is colorful and thrives in shade. (Image by Jessie Keith)

“What is the best colorful flower that needs the least amount of sun for Zone 7a?” Question from Kay of New Jersey

Answer: That’s a great question. I will list several brightly colored perennials that grow well in shaded Mid-Atlantic gardens (arranged by bloom time). But, let me know your soil type and whether your flowers will be competing with lots of surface tree roots. Most shade plants grow best with a nice layer of moderately moist, organic-rich soil and limited surface-root competition. Amending your soil with Black Gold Garden Compost Blend will help.

Colorful Flowers for Shade

Spigelia is a pretty summer bloomer for shade.

Early Spring – Helleborus Brandywine™ : Evergreen leaves and pretty early spring flowers make these great shade perennials for any Mid-Atlantic garden.

Late Spring – Tradescantia ‘Sweet Kate’: Golden foliage and violet-purple flowers make this one of the most colorful shade perennials for late spring.

Late Spring – Phlox stolonifera ‘Home Fires’: This hardy, low-growing, groundcover phlox produces bright magenta blooms in late spring and early summer.

Summer –Spigelia marilandica: This summer-blooming flower offers clusters of crimson and gold flowers that are beautiful and visited by hummingbirds.

Late Summer – Chelone lyonii ‘Hot Lips‘: Flowers of pink appear on this late-summer bloomer. Chelone likes a little more soil moisture and will tolerate both sun and shade.

All-Season Foliage Plants- Hostas and Heucheras: Both heucheras and hostas grow well in shade and have foliage that comes in a wide array of colors.

If you want to add some brightly colored shade-loving shrubs to your low-light garden, throw in a few azaleas and rhododendrons. Variegated red twig dogwoods also add brightness to shaded gardens.

Happy shade gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What Are Some Good Southern Plants for Shade?

“Most of my yard is shaded. What are the best plants for me? I am in Georgia.” Question from Lucretia of Elberton, Georgia

Answer: There are lots of great flowers for you to grow in your southern garden. Perennials are the best investment because they return each year. Here are eight great perennials to try that will thrive in your hot summers. It’s nice to plant a suite of flowers that will look good in spring, summer, and fall.

Good Southern Perennials for Shade

Heuchera ‘Southern Comfort’ is a beautiful shade perennial for southern gardens (blue lungwort flowers in the background). (Image by Terra Nova Nurseries)

Fall Anemones: These spreading fall-blooming flowers grow well in partial shade and add color to late-season gardens. (Read more about fall anemones here.)

Autumn Fern (Dryopteris erythrosora): This is a tough fern with coppery fronds that will take hot summer climates and thrives in shade. Just be sure to amend its soil with quality compost, like Black Gold Garden Compost Blend.

Hardy Begonia (Begonia grandis): This perennial begonia gently spreads through shaded gardens and has lovely red-veined green leaves and pink flowers.

Hostas (Hosta spp.): Hostas are perennials grown for their beautiful foliage and come in hundreds of large and small varieties. Most thrive in southern gardens. (Click here to read about super hostas for the South).

Wild Bleeding Heart (Dicentra eximia): This Georgia native is at home in shaded gardens and has ferny foliage and pretty spring flowers of pink, white, or rosy red.

Barrenwort (Epimedium spp.): This tough perennial grows really well in dry shade and can take the heat. It has lovely foliage and unique spring flowers. (Click here to read more about barrenworts for southern gardens.)

Alumroot/Coral Bells (Heuchera spp.): Heuchera are grown for their beautiful leaves and delicate flowers. They love shade and look pretty all season long. Try the elegant variety from Terra Nova Nurseries, ‘Southern Comfort‘, which has beautiful cinnamon and peach leaves.

Lungwort (Pulmonaria spp.): Like many of the plants on this list, lungwort has pretty speckled f0liage and pretty violet-blue flowers in late spring. It grows well in the South and is reliably attractive. (Click here to read more about lungwort for southern gardens.)

If you want to add nice shade-loving shrubs to your low-light perennial border, throw in a few azaleas and rhododendrons.

Happy shade gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

How Do I Grow Bay Leaf Indoors?

“What’s the best way to grow bay leaves indoors?” Question from Debbie of Fort Calhoun, Nebraska

Answer: Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis) is a broadleaf evergreen tree from the Mediterranean region  that is hardy between USDA Hardiness Zones 8-10. Thankfully, it is very easy to grow indoors, if you have a sunny spot that remains relatively cool through the winter.

Most quality nurseries carry bay laurel. Choose a leafy, robust looking tree, and plant it a ceramic pot that’s twice the size of the root ball, being sure to leave at least 2 inches of space at the top for watering. We recommend planting bay in a rich, well-drained mix for edible growing, like Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix, which is approved for organic gardening.

Bay laurels require less water in fall and winter but don’t let the pot become completely dry between watering. During the summer months, bay pots grow better outdoors and require more water. Upgrade your bay when it outgrows its pot, and prune its branches back, if they become too large and top-heavy.

Fresh bay leaves can be harvested all season long, just be sure to leave enough leaves on the plant for good growth and plant health.

Happy bay laurel growing!

Jessie Keith