Food-Gardening Lessons From A Wartime Victory Garden

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Author: JESSIE KEITH

Plants are the lens Jessie views the world through because they’re all-sustaining. (“They feed, clothe, house and heal us. They produce the air we breathe and even make us smell pretty.”) She’s a garden writer and photographer with degrees in both horticulture and plant biology from Purdue and Michigan State Universities. Her degrees were bolstered by internships at Longwood Gardens and the American Horticultural Society. She has since worked for many horticultural institutions and companies and now manages communications for Sun Gro Horticulture, the parent company of Black Gold. Her joy is sharing all things green and lovely with her two daughters.

What is the Best Soil and Advice for Growing Strawberries in Maine?

“What is the best soil and advice for growing strawberries?” Question from Melody of Lewiston, Maine

Answer: Strawberries grow best in soil that is well-drained, moisture retentive, light, and high in organic matter. A soil with a slightly acid pH, between 5.5 to 6.5, is ideal. Amending your soil with Black Gold Garden Soil, Peat Moss, or Compost Blend will boost your soil for strawberry growing.

Folks living in colder zones like yours should plant strawberries in a warm, sunny location that is not too exposed. Your strawberries should also be protected from late-spring frosts for better fruiting. Protecting plants with a layer of straw can help. It’s also wise to choose an extra winter-hardy strawberry variety. According to the University of Maine Cooperative Extension Service,  ‘Allstar’, ‘Bounty’, ‘Catskill’, ‘Earliglow‘, ‘Guardian‘, ‘Lateglow’, ‘Midway’, ‘Mira’, ‘Mohawk’, ‘Northeaster‘, and ‘Surecrop’ are the best strawberry varieties to grow in your state.

For more growing advice, I recommend you read the Black Gold article, Growing Strawberries with Success. Our video about strawberry growing (below) will also help you successfully grow these fruits.

Happy strawberry growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Best Window Direction for Winter Herbs

“What is the best window to place my herbs in during the winter? We’re growing basil, parsley, and oregano.” Question from Gregory of Gloversville, New York

Answer: Most culinary herbs are sun lovers, so choose a south-facing window, if you have one. The sunniest window you have will be your best window for herbs.

For more information on how to make the most of your indoor herbs, read this blog article about Bringing Herbs Indoors for Winter, and watch our video (below) about the best herbs for indoor growing!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith, Black Gold Horticulturist

 

Gro Your Own: Indoor Herb Growing

Fresh herbs taste best for home cooking, so why not grow your own indoors this winter? Here are the best herbs for indoor growing plus tips for successful indoor cultivation.

Please Click here for a Step-By-Step pdf.

Rooting Mint Cuttings

“When dealing with mint clippings, what is the best way to keep them alive and well until they root and can be planted directly in soil?” Question from Jacquelynn  of Torrington, Wyoming 

Answer: You are lucky! Mint is one of the easiest herbs to root. Start by choosing the healthiest stem tips and clip them off to a length of about 6 inches. Then rinse them off and place them in a glass of clean water. Change the water every four days or so. They should root in the water within a week or two.

Once your cuttings have rooted, prepare medium-sized pots filled with quality mix, like Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix. Dibble out holes big enough for your cuttings then plant them, being sure to firm the soil down around their roots. (Always leave at least an inch at the top of the pot for watering and make sure it has a saucer below.) Then water in your mint plants, and place them in a sunny window. Keep them trimmed back if they start to become too leggy, and feed them with a slow-release fertilizer to keep their foliage lush.

Happy indoor herb growing!!!

Jessie Keith

Best Low-Light House Plants for Cats

“What are the best low-light house plants that are cat safe?” Question from Margaret of Houston, Texas

Each of these eight beautiful house plants grow well in shade or filtered sunlight, and according to the ASPCA, all are non-toxic to cats.

Cast Iron Plant

Non-Toxic House Plants for Cats

Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior, full to part shade, 1-3 feet): This bold-leaved house plant needs average water and fertile soil. Some varieties have gold or variegated leaves.

Rex Begonia (Begonia rex-cultorum, part shade, 1-2 feet): Grown for their fantastic leaves and flowers, these are some of the prettiest houseplants that are cat safe.

Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans, full to part shade, 2-6 feet): The classic parlor palm, with its deep green palm leaves, looks great indoors and is safe for all pets.

Rex Begonia

Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum, full to part shade, 1-2 feet (cascading)): The classic spider plant is safely chewed upon by cats like cat grass and is very easy to grow.

False Aralia (Schefflera elegantissima, part shade, 5-10 feet (indoors)): False aralia has beautiful foliage and is very easy to grow in partially shaded areas.

Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata, part shade, 2-3 feet): Common Boston ferns are lovely, safe, and always pretty in low-light spots in the home. Just be sure to water them regularly and remove old, browning fronds.

Parlor Palm

Emerald Ripple Peperomia (Peperomia caperata, part shade, 6-10 inches): The corrugated leaves of this compact house plant always look pretty and won’t pose a threat to cats.

Silverleaf Peperomia (Peperomia griseoargentea, part shade, 6-18 inches): This peperomia has silvery, textural leaves that glow in partial shade locations in the home.

House Plant Care

All of these house plants will thrive in Black Gold All-Purpose Potting Mix, which is specially formulated for indoor growing. Choose a planting pot that is just larger than the root ball of your house plant, and leave at least 2-3 inches of space at the top for watering.

Emerald Ripple Peperomia

Water plants regularly. Feel the soil down to your middle knuckle, and if it’s dry, it’s time to water. Less water is generally needed during the cold winter months. House plants also grow better if fed with a quality fertilizer formulated for house plants.

Be sure to place house plants away from heating vents, as this causes their leaves and soil to dry more quickly. It is also wise to clean the leaves of house plants to remove dust that can inhibit growth. This is especially necessary for larger-leaved specimens that readily collect dust.

Best Perennial Herbs for Zone 7 Gardens in Texas

“Are  there any herbs that will overwinter in zone 7b?” Question from Deb of Alvarado, Texas

Answer: Yes! There are many perennial herbs that will thrive in your northeast Texas location. I understand that your summers are hot and muggy and your winters are chilly and windy. For your home, I would opt for perennial herbs adapted to Mediterranean climates. These include the following:

Chives

The spring onionyflavor of chives (Allium schoenoprasum, USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8) is a favorite in spring dishes. Edible clusters of mauve flowers appear in mid-spring, rising above the upright foliage. Chives love sun and rich garden soil amended with compost, such as OMRI Listed Black Gold Garden Compost Blend. Harvest them fresh, when they are most flavorful, and add them to omelets, salads, or vegetables.

Oregano

Oregano (Origanum vulgare, USDA Hardiness Zones 4-10) thrives in sun and has low, rooting stems that spread, so be sure to give it space to grow. You can also contain it in a pot. Dry the leaves in fall for winter cooking.

Thyme

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris, USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9) is a common herb across Europe with a low, spreading, shrubby habit and pungent evergreen leaves. It requires well-drained soil and a sunny spot. Harvest the leafy stems any time of year or dry the leaves for herbal mixes.

Sage

The leathery, gray, evergreen leaves of sage (Salvia officinalis, USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8) are tasty, and this hardy shrubby perennial bears pretty lavender-blue flowers in summer, which are also edible, and attract bees. Give it plenty of sun and average soil with good drainage.

French Lavender

Of all the French lavenders to try, ‘Provence’ (Lavandula x intermedia ‘Provence’, USDA Hardiness Zones 6-9) is extra fragrant and beautiful. It is a vigorous hybrid between English lavender (L. angustifolia) and Portuguese lavender (L. latifolia).  [To learn more about growing lavender, click here.]

Rosemary

In the Mediterranean, hardy rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Arp’, USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10) is planted in aromatic evergreen hedges. This sun and drought-loving herb has needle-like leaves that are resinous and piney. Dry them for winter cooking or harvest fresh stems year round.

I hope this helps!

Happy perennial herb gardening!

Jessie

Best Time to Transplant Roses in Georgia

“What is the best time to transplant roses in Georgia?” Question from Jacqueline of Statham, Georgia

Answer: The best transplant window in your USDA Hardiness Zones 7-8 location is from November to February, when your roses are largely dormant. Choose a mild winter day when the soil is warm enough to dig. Here are the steps needed to transplant your roses:

Steps for Transplanting Roses

  1. For easier transplant, prune rose bushes back before moving them (see our rose pruning how-to video below).
  2. When digging up a rose for transplant, remove as much of the rootball as possible, while retaining as much soil around the ball as possible.
  3. Dig a new hole that’s just a little larger than rootball, and amend the backfill with quality compost, like Black Gold Garden Compost Blend, before planting.
  4. Plant the rootball so the top of the ball meets the top of the soil line, and fill in around it with the backfill, being sure to remove any air pockets. All roots should be covered.
  5. Feed your roses with natural alfalfa meal fertilizer (great for roses!), and water your rose well.
  6. Add a topdressing of 2-3 inches of compost or bark mulch to protect your newly planted rose.
  7. If weather remains dry, continue to keep newly transplanted roses watered until they break bud and their roots have become well established.

Happy rose growing!

Jessie

Deer-Resistant Chrysanthemums for Northern California?

“Loved your article on hardy mums!  Living in NoCal, I have a lot of deer.  Do you know of any deer resistant mums?  Also mums that can tolerate some shade?” Question from Jeanene of Willits, California

Answer: Classic garden mums (Chyranthemum x morifolium) are not reliably deer resistant, but some mum relatives are both resistant as well as being well-adapted to your growing area. This includes the plants listed below. Each grows well in the cooler, drier climate of North California and will bloom into fall.

African Daisy (Osteospermum fruticosum hybrids)

4D™ Osteospermum hybrids look very mum-like and resist deer forage. (Image by Ball Horticultural Company)

These pretty South African tender perennials are bushy and bloom all season long. They come in lots of yellow and red shades, and some double varieties, like D™ Osteospermum, look very chrysanthemum-like. They grow best in full sun and well-drained but fertile garden soil. They also thrive in pots filled with quality mix like Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix.

Marguerite Daisy (Argyranthemum frutescens)

Vanilla Butterfly has pretty yellow and ivory blooms that flower continuously. (Image by Proven Winners)

Marguerite Daisies grow just like African daisies and also originate from South Africa. They have fernier foliage and daisy or double flowers that look very much like those of mums. The single variety Vanilla Butterfly® has very pretty ivory and butter yellow blooms.

Of course, any of the mum varieties mentioned in our hardy chrysanthemum article would survive where you live, but you would have to rely on cover or quality deer repellent to keep them from being noshed upon. (Click here to read a great article on managing deer and other pests from our sister brand, Fafard.)

I hope this helps!

Happy gardening!

Jessie

 

Beating Squash Vine Borers

“The last couple of years that we have planted zucchini, a worm of some sort has eaten to roots and caused the plants to die. We try to use as little chemicals as possible but don’t know what else to do. We have tried 7 dust, diatomaceous earth and this year we even tilled several times before planting but yet our plants still died because of this insect. It doesn’t bother other plants just the zucchini.” Question from Michelle of Copperas Cove, Texas

Answer: You have squash vine borers! These moth pests lay their eggs at the base of zucchini and squash vines. Then their larvae hatch and bore into the base of the squash, eating away at the stem interiors until the vines wilt and die due to lack of food and water. Bush zucchini and squash are most susceptible because they have just one stem supporting the whole plant.

There are several things you can do to keep borers and bay, and none require pesticides.

Tackle Borers Early

The key is getting to the borers before they get to your squash. The half-inch-long moths are gray with orange-red bodies dotted with black. They buzz like wasps and reproduce just once a year. Look for them early in the summer, when they are ready to lay clusters of tiny, flat, brown eggs at the base of squash stems or lower leaves. The eggs take just one week to hatch.

Keep a lookout for adults and egg clusters after you plant your squash. If you find the eggs, gently scrape them away. Continuous checking and egg removal will keep the borers at bay. The moths are also attracted to the color yellow, so another method is laying yellow sticky traps at the base of the stems.

Some gardeners also find success placing floating row covers over squash up until midsummer. You just have to secure the row cover edges to keep insects from getting inside until the borer threat has passed. Then remove the covers to ensure your zucchini flowers get pollinated.

Remove Borers

Here’s what an active borer looks like in a squash stem (cross-wise cut). Look for the tan, gravelly frass at the stem base!

If borers do infiltrate your zucchini stems, you can actually remove them! Look for holes filled with tan, gravelly frass (insect droppings) at the stem base. As soon as you see these borer signs, gently slice open the stem lengthwise, doing as little damage as possible, and remove the yucky borers. This process is a lot easier than you might think.

Plant Zucchini Later in the Season

Lots of bush zucchini will produce fruit in as little as 45 to 50 harvest days. So, if you plant new plants in midsummer, after the squash borers have stopped reproducing, you can worry less about borers.

Plant Borer-Resistant Zucchini

Vining squash and zucchini types require more space, but their stems root along the ground, making them resistant to borers. If one stem is attacked, the others will support the growing vine. Two great resistant varieties to try include ‘Cocozella Di Napoli‘ and ‘Costata Romanesco‘.

I hope this information helps!

Happy zucchini growing,

Jessie Keith

Squash vine borer drawing by author Mary Foley Benson.