Food-Gardening Lessons From A Wartime Victory Garden

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Author: JESSIE KEITH

Plants are the lens Jessie views the world through because they’re all-sustaining. (“They feed, clothe, house and heal us. They produce the air we breathe and even make us smell pretty.”) She’s a garden writer and photographer with degrees in both horticulture and plant biology from Purdue and Michigan State Universities. Her degrees were bolstered by internships at Longwood Gardens and the American Horticultural Society. She has since worked for many horticultural institutions and companies and now manages communications for Sun Gro Horticulture, the parent company of Black Gold. Her joy is sharing all things green and lovely with her two daughters.

What Garden Companion Plants Control Insect Pests?

“What’s the best flower to control unwanted bugs in your veggie garden?” Question from Sylvia of Belle Plaine, Minnesota

Answer: Some commonly recommended companion plantings are ineffective, while others are supported by research. Most of the research surrounds vegetable crops and companion plants that reduce the number of insect pests that attack these crops. Companions fall under two categories:

  1. Trap crops: These plantings attract insect pests, luring them away from favorite vegetables. They take up a lot of space and are not practical for most home gardeners, so I will just cover repellent companion plants that have been shown to really help ward off vegetable pests.
  2. Insect-repelling companion plants: These plants ward off certain insect pests in the garden.

INSECT-REPELLING COMPANION PLANTS

These plants emit chemicals that deter insects. Repelling plants will never totally protect vegetables from the pests that attack them, but they can reduce pest numbers. Here are a few good examples of vegetable pests and the companion plants that repel them.

Herbal Insect Repelling Companion Plants

Herbs have been shown to offer repellent protection to specific veggies. Here are the best.

  • Basil (Ocimum basilicum) can reduce the number of tomato hornworms on tomatoes and thrips on flowers. Choose large varieties.
  • Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) and onion relatives repel plant-damaging moths, aphids, and mites that attack a wide host of vegetable plants, such as brassicas (collards, cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower), beans, and squash, so a border of chives might be really helpful in the garden.
  • Sage (Salvia officinalis), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), hyssop (Hyssop officinalis), thyme (Thymus vulgaris), dill (Anethum graveolens), and chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) are more edible herbs that may also provide brassicas some protection against common pests.
  • Catnip (Nepeta cataria), wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum), and tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) are inedible herbs that reduce damage by flea beetles, a pest that attacks eggplant, brassicas, tomatoes, and other common crops. One downside is to these repellent plants is that they tend to spread and become weedy. Of these, I recommend catnip the most. Just clip it back occasionally to keep it from flowering and setting seed.

Flowering Insect Repelling Companion Plants

A few common garden flowers also have repelling qualities.

All of the companion herbs and flowers mentioned will flourish in soil amended with fertilizer-enriched Black Gold Garden Soil. I hope that some of these tips. When planting to protect, it is most helpful to plant a close row or ring of repelling plants near the vegetables that you want to protect.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What Is the Best Time of Day to Water Plants?

“What time of day should I water my plants?” question from Courtney of Roebling, New Jersey

Answer: It really depends on where you live and what your soil and climate are like. In a very dry region, I’d suggest watering in the evening and possibly again in the morning, depending on the time of year and the severity of drought. But, where you live in the Mid-Atlantic, rainfall is ample, so watering plants in the evening can encourage fungal and bacterial diseases.

My horticultural colleague, Russell Stafford, says, “Water in the morning before the heat of the day, or at daytime hours on cloudy days. Use a hose with a watering wand or watering can to directly irrigate recently installed plants. Soaker hoses, drip systems, and other irrigation methods that directly contact the soil are ideal for established plantings.  (Sprinklers waste water.)” I have to agree, and might also add that I like to water the base of plants, at the root zone, rather than spraying foliage unnecessarily. Of course, if you miss watering in the morning, it does not hurt to water midday or even in the mid-afternoon. It’s just nice for plants to dry out a bit before the evening. Click here for more excellent watering tips from Russell.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Do Old Coffee Grounds And Tea Leaves Help Gardens?

 

“Are sprinkling used coffee grounds around flowerbeds or tree and shrubs a good idea?  We have our neighbor dogs and cats issues. Thanks!” Misty from South Carolina

Answer: It’s a question that I asked myself some time ago because my grandmother’s favorite amendments for roses were old tea leaves and coffee grounds. Both organic materials, derived from plant leaves and seeds, are slightly acidic and break down quickly, so essentially they act as quick compost at a slightly low pH suitable for roses. Coffee grounds also contain needed plant macro and micronutrients, such as phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium, while tea leaves contain a decent level of nitrogen, a macro-nutrient that encourages leaf growth.

Extra organic matter is always beneficial and encourages beneficial microbes as well, so placing grounds and leaves around other plants that appreciate slightly acid soil would also be a good idea, especially if you work them into the soil. Following up with proven soil amendments designed to make your garden plants thrive, like Black Gold Garden Compost Blend and Earthworm Castings, is also highly recommended.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

When Do You Fertilize Rhododendrons?

“When is the best time to fertilize Rhododendrons?” Question from Carin of Fall Creek, Wisconsin

Answer: When it comes to questions about Rhododendrons and Azaleas, even experts like me turn to the American Rhododendron Society. Their goal is to teach gardeners how to make the most of these beautiful flowering shrubs. Their advice follows that of professional growers: if the plants look happy, perform well, and have fertile, well-drained soil that is slightly acid, then there is no need to feed them. Excess fertilizer can actually damage their roots. But, if your soil is sandy and poor, then I recommend amending it with Black Gold Peat Moss and Garden Compost Blend to increase water- and nutrient-holding ability. From there fertilize in the early spring with a food formulated for acid-loving plants, like rhododendrons. (Click here to read more.)

I hope that these tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Is This Tomato Mosaic Virus?

“Hi! Doing good? Please, can you tell me if this is tomatoes mosaic virus or others, or simply burn from the heat lamp? How can I send you pictures, please? Thank you for caring! Anne ;-)))” Question from Anne of San Diego, California

Answer: It is hard to tell at this stage. There are points where physical damage, such as foliage burn or herbicide damage, can certainly look much like a disease. Nutrient deficiency (click here to learn about tomato nutrient deficiencies) can also look much like a disease. With that said, it is rare for seedlings to get a mosaic virus in the home. These diseases are often vectored by insects, though if you are a smoker, tobacco mosaic virus is very stable and can be transferred from contaminated cigarette tobacco to a seedling, though this is rare, too. I recommend placing the seedlings in question apart from the others, feed them, and watch them. If they pull out of it, then it was not a disease. If the foliage looks more and more diseased, then dispose of the plant. Click here to for a good look at advanced mosiac virus in tomatoes.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do I Protect My Bulb Pots From Rot?

“I tried planting bulbs (crocus, daffodils, tulips, and iris) in pots this year. They were well mulched and gathered in a warmer area of the garden near the house. Nothing came up! After investigating, it appears they became too wet and froze. The pots have great drainage. Any suggestions for next year will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!” Question from Jane of Bloomington, Illinois

Answer: Bulbs are adapted somewhat to freezing and thawing, but if they get too wet, they are prone to rotting, especially when temperatures are mild in fall and spring. There are several things that you can do to protect them from excess winter water. The easiest way is to simply store the pots under a patio or protective eave. You can also add more amendments, like Black Gold Perlite, to encourage faster drainage, but overhead cover gives one a bit more control. On the flip side, there is always a chance that they may become too dry under cover, so intermittent watering from fall to spring is recommended.

It is also advisable to protect your tulip and crocus bulbs/corms from rodents that enjoy munching on them in the winter months when food is scarce. Applying some repellent granules around the bulbs at planting time will help. From there, I recommend that you read Mike Darcy’s excellent article about creating layered bulb pots in the fall (click here to read).

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What Are The Best Shade-Loving Native Groundcovers For New Jersey?

Shade Native Groundcovers For New Jersey

“What are the best ground covers for where I live in coastal New Jersey? The location is shaded 75-80% of the day.” Question from Thomas of South Amboy, New Jersey

Answer: The groundcovers that grow best in the shaded areas in your area of coastal New Jersey are natives. Here are four of the prettiest and toughest for your area.

Native Groundcovers for Shade

American Alumroot (Heuchera americana) forms large mounds of textural, red-veined leaves make this hardy perennial a great groundcover for shaded spots. Truly, any Heuchera can be planted en masse to cover a lot of shady ground and look great. One note: they do not appreciate mulch over their crowns.

American Ginger (Asarum canadensis) is an attractive, low-growing, spreading groundcover with bright green, heart-shaped leaves. It is easy to grow and pretty.

Evergreen American Wild Ginger (Hexastylis arifolia) is a low-growing, spreading groundcover with beautifully mottled leaves. It is one of my favorite native groundcovers.

Appalachian Sedge (Carex appalachica) forms fine, grassy clumps of foliage that are very attractive. It will tolerate both dry and moist shade.

Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) is a rare fern that is evergreen, grows well in dry shade once established, and spreads. Multiple plants must be planted over an area for it to cover good ground. It is my favorite groundcover for shade. (Click here to learn more.)

If natives are not your thing, then bugleweed (Ajuga reptans) is a pretty, low-growing spring bloomer with deep green foliage and spikes of bright purple flowers in spring. There are lots of attractive varieties available.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

What Is the Best Mix for Potted Citrus Trees?

“What is the best potting mix for Meyer lemon tree in a plastic pot?  Needs to drain well.” Question from Polly of New Mexico

Answer: We offer several good-fit mixes. Before potting your tree, make sure that the new pot is several inches larger than the old and that it offers excellent bottom drainage. The ideal potting soil should have a balance of good porosity, drainage, and water-holding ability. Ideally, it should be slightly acid, because Meyer lemons grow best in soils with a pH of 6-7. Here are our best OMRI Listed soils for your tree.

  1. Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix
  2. Black Gold Natural & Organic Ultra Coir
  3. Black Gold® Natural & Organic Flower and Vegetable Soil

Growing Potted Citrus

Potted citrus trees require a minimum of 8 hours of sunlight a day to perform well. Warm growing conditions (60 – 75 degrees F) and moderate humidity (45 – 50%) will encourage flowering and fruiting. Bringing plants outdoors in summer, on a sunny porch or patio, helps them grow better year-round.

Good watering, feeding, and care practices will keep your plant happy. Water plants deeply until the water drains from the bottom of the pot. Allow pots to become moderately dry between watering–the tops should be dry down to a minimum of 3 inches. (Outdoor plants may need to be watered almost daily, while indoor plants require less frequent water.) During the winter months, when growth naturally slows, the watering regime should be reduced. Signs of overwatering include leaf yellowing and drop and eventually stem death. Trees allowed to become too dry may also unexpectedly drop some leaves.

Fertilization is essential, any slow-release fertilizer formulated for citrus would be ideal.

I hope that these tips help!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do You Stop Asparagus Beetles?

“How can I prevent asparagus beetles from attacking and how can I get rid of them?” Question from Carol of Drums, Pennsylvania

Answer: There are several cultural things that you can do to manage asparagus beetles. There are two types with similar habits and damage, the black and white adult common asparagus beetle (Crioceris asparagi) and orangish-red spotted asparagus beetle (Crioceris duodecimpunctata). First, it is important to understand their life cycles.

Asparagus Beetle Life Cycle

  1. In early to mid-spring, as spears break ground, adult asparagus beetles emerge from sheltered areas along the ground and in trees.
  2. The beetles mate and the females lay spare rows of dark brown, oval-shaped eggs on spears of asparagus plants.
  3. Beetle eggs hatch in around a week and the small, translucent larvae start chewing on spears and foliage.
  4. The larvae feed for around two weeks before pupating in the soil below the plants.
  5. Pupation takes just a week, then the new adults emerge to start a new cycle. Cycles can last all season long.

Asparagus Beetle Damage

Spotted asparagus beetle (Crioceris duodecimpunctata) first emerges in early spring.

When adult beetles feed on spears, the spears turn brownish-green and the tips bend and look hook-like. Scarring will occur along the asparagus spears from larval chewing. The larvae and adults will continue to feed on the foliage all season long, weakening the plants and increasing beetle populations. The damage also weakens an asparagus plant’s immunity, making it more susceptible to fungal disease.

Managing Asparagus Beetles

Asparagus beetle larvae are very destructive chewers.

Good timing and dedication are needed to remove these pests from your garden. Here are the removal steps that I recommend.

  1. Look for eggs and beetles early in the season and daily as soon as the spears start to emerge and during harvest season.
  2. Scrape off and smash the eggs, and pick off the larvae and adults and place drown them in a dish of soapy water.
  3. Time your pest search well. Asparagus beetles are most active in warm, afternoon weather, while the best time to look for new eggs is in the morning.
  4. Large asparagus beetle populations might need the addition of a pesticide. Neem oil is approved for organic gardening and has been shown to be effective on plants for several days.
  5. Finally, harvest spears as soon as you can and snap them all the way to the ground to keep beetle food sources down.
  6. Keep beds clean, weeded, and remove beetles, eggs, and larvae as you see them. (Click here for additional tips about weeding and feeding asparagus.)

I hope that these tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What Is the Best Mix For Carnivorous Plants?

“Do you have a mix that works with carnivorous plants like the American pitcher plant or venus fly trap?” Question from Doreen of Lander, Wyoming

Answer: North American carnivorous plants, like the Southeast American native Venus Flytrap (Dionaea muscipula, USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8), are largely bog plants. Consequently, peat moss is one of the best growing mediums for them. Peat bogs are nutrient-poor growing environments, which is why the plants adapted to bogs gather needed nutrients from the insects that they catch and digest. I suggest growing yours in Black Gold Peat Moss Plus, which has an all-natural added wetting agent to help the peat remain wettable. Add to the peat moss a little sand at a 1:4 ratio and top it off with a little coarse, unprocessed peat moss. The combo should be perfect for your plant. Refrain from adding fertilizer!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist