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Tag: pests

How Do I Keep Worms Off My Cabbage Crops?

“All my cabbage family plants…example broccoli, cabbage…etc. get worms on them and they eat them up. What is the best pesticide to use? I even cover them with netting and they still get wormy.” Question from Chris of Orange, Connecticut

Answer: White cabbage moths, also called cabbage loopers/worms, are the most common pest (click here to learn how to manage them) of crops in the cabbage family, but they are really easy to manage. If your cabbage-family crops get loopers yearly, then apply pre-emptive applications of OMRI Listed BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) to stop them in their tracks. Lots of companies make this highly effective pesticide, and not only does it work, but it does not harm any beneficial insects. Start spraying your cabbages, broccoli, kale, collards, and cauliflower shortly after putting these crops out. That way, the caterpillars won’t stand a chance, and you will have clean crops!

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do You Manage Whiteflies Organically?

“What is the best organic way to get rid of whiteflies?” Question from Shawn of Kenosha, Wisconsin

Answer: Whiteflies can become awful pests to manage if the populations become large, but they are relatively easy to kill. Here is a little more information about these pests and some organic methods for handing them.

What Are Whiteflies?

Whiteflies are sucking insects that remove the juices from plant leaves and stems. Tiny whiteflies can be very destructive when populations are high–causing leaf drop and general plant decline. When plants are badly infested, the undersides of leaves will become covered with clouds of tiny flies that are bright white and clusters of their small, round, white egg masses.

Whiteflies breed continuously and quickly, which is a big reason why they are so problematic. According to Colorado State University: At 70º F, the greenhouse whitefly life cycle happens fast. “It takes 6-10 days for egg hatch, 3-4 days as a nymph I, 4-5 days as nymph II, 4-5 days as nymph III, 6-10 days for the pupa. Adults can live for 30 to 40 days.” Adults produce lots of eggs for ever-increasing numbers unless challenged.

How to Kill Whiteflies

Start by spraying the plants off with a sharp spray of water from a hose. Focus on the undersides of leaves. Then look beneath the leaves for clusters of clinging, small, white egg masses. Leaves thickly covered with egg masses should be removed, tightly bagged, and thrown away. Next, wipe the egg masses off of the remaining leaves. Make sure no eggs remain. Finally, spray the plants with insecticidal soap, Neem oil, or horticultural oil. (Click here for an overview of horticultural oils for organic insect control.) Continue to check for whiteflies and wipe and spray leaves as needed.

It may take a little work, but this method is effective.

I hope that these tips help!

Happy gardening

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do You Stop Asparagus Beetles?

“How can I prevent asparagus beetles from attacking and how can I get rid of them?” Question from Carol of Drums, Pennsylvania

Answer: There are several cultural things that you can do to manage asparagus beetles. There are two types with similar habits and damage, the black and white adult common asparagus beetle (Crioceris asparagi) and orangish-red spotted asparagus beetle (Crioceris duodecimpunctata). First, it is important to understand their life cycles.

Asparagus Beetle Life Cycle

  1. In early to mid-spring, as spears break ground, adult asparagus beetles emerge from sheltered areas along the ground and in trees.
  2. The beetles mate and the females lay spare rows of dark brown, oval-shaped eggs on spears of asparagus plants.
  3. Beetle eggs hatch in around a week and the small, translucent larvae start chewing on spears and foliage.
  4. The larvae feed for around two weeks before pupating in the soil below the plants.
  5. Pupation takes just a week, then the new adults emerge to start a new cycle. Cycles can last all season long.

Asparagus Beetle Damage

Spotted asparagus beetle (Crioceris duodecimpunctata) first emerges in early spring.

When adult beetles feed on spears, the spears turn brownish-green and the tips bend and look hook-like. Scarring will occur along the asparagus spears from larval chewing. The larvae and adults will continue to feed on the foliage all season long, weakening the plants and increasing beetle populations. The damage also weakens an asparagus plant’s immunity, making it more susceptible to fungal disease.

Managing Asparagus Beetles

Asparagus beetle larvae are very destructive chewers.

Good timing and dedication are needed to remove these pests from your garden. Here are the removal steps that I recommend.

  1. Look for eggs and beetles early in the season and daily as soon as the spears start to emerge and during harvest season.
  2. Scrape off and smash the eggs, and pick off the larvae and adults and place drown them in a dish of soapy water.
  3. Time your pest search well. Asparagus beetles are most active in warm, afternoon weather, while the best time to look for new eggs is in the morning.
  4. Large asparagus beetle populations might need the addition of a pesticide. Neem oil is approved for organic gardening and has been shown to be effective on plants for several days.
  5. Finally, harvest spears as soon as you can and snap them all the way to the ground to keep beetle food sources down.
  6. Keep beds clean, weeded, and remove beetles, eggs, and larvae as you see them. (Click here for additional tips about weeding and feeding asparagus.)

I hope that these tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Why Are My Pine Trees Dropping New Growth?

Why Are My Pine Trees Dropping New Growth?

“I have a number of pine trees in my yard. Last year I had a number of trees that dropped new growth, this happened in the fall and winter.  This year a larger number of the trees dropped the new growth.  It looked like a green carpet. under the trees.  The weather was dry warm and the winter was colder than usual.  This year was quite warm and the winter was warmer than usual, stayed in the 20deg.  Also, we had heavy snow.  Also higher wind both years.  Is there a problem with the weather or something else? The new candles are falling.  All the candles are falling, it looks like a carpet.  They are falling in the fall and winter.  I’m really not sure what kind of pine they are.  The pines did drop some needles in 2019, too.” Question from Raymond of Holt, Michigan

Answer: If the fresh, new candles on your pines are falling to the ground green, then it is likely that insect pests are at work, though some environmental conditions can also cause needle drop. I will cover a few possible answers for you, but without knowing what species of pines you have, and without seeing images of the damage, I cannot provide a definitive answer. I recommend that you follow up with your local extension agent at Michigan State University. Extension agents are paid to help state residents with garden and landscape problems. Yours sounds serious! (Click here to see your local agents.)

Pine Defoliating Pests in Michigan

Pine Sawflies: These nasty pests defoliate the older green needles of pines in summer. (Click here to learn more about their management.)

Pine Shoot-Tip Beetles: The damage caused by these black beetles is typically shoot-tip and branch injury. (Click here to learn more.)

Pine Tip Moths: These moths cause new growth in pines to die in summer. (Click here to learn more.)

For a detailed list of more problems that can assail pines, I recommend that you read The Christmas Tree Pest Manual (2014). It is a super resource.

I hope that you get the help that you need for your trees this season!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do I Keep Squirrels from Stealing My Tomatoes?

“Squirrels have stolen all my tomatoes for the last 3 years.  Is there any option other than putting up fencing?” Question from Barbara of Portage, Michigan

Answer: Squirrels tend to steal fruit when they are thirsty as well as hungry, and there are several proactive things that you can do to keep them away. Fences do not work due to the acrobatic nature of squirrels. Your best option is a motion-sensor repeller. There are several types. Some are in the form of hooting owls, others release ultrasonic sounds, but the best use sharp sprays of water to startle and frighten away squirrels and other pests. The Yard Enforcer is a good brand.

At my home, I also maintain a water source for birds that squirrels can also drink from and place my kitchen produce seeds–from melons, squash, etc.– outside and away from my garden for squirrels to eat. It costs no money, and well-fed and watered squirrels tend to stay away from my garden.

I hope that these tips help.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Mildew, Insects, and Rodents Damaged My Vegetable Garden. Help!

Mildew, Insects, and Rodents Damaged My Vegetable Garden. Help!

“My raised bed gardens were a disaster this year!  Mildew, cabbage worms, rodents – even though I thought I had great organic soil mix and high enough barriers.  What can I do this fall to get a great start next spring?” Question from Glenda of Sewell, New Jersey

Answer: I am sorry to hear that your vegetable garden was a downer this year. Different pests and diseases need to be dealt with in different ways. Here are some recommendations and resources.

Ways to Ward Off Vegetable Garden Pests and Disease

  1. Clean up. The best way to ward off pests and diseases is to remove all plant material from your vegetable garden in fall and do the same in early spring when winter weeds abound. It removes the overwintering eggs of some pests as well as plant-borne diseases.
  2. Go no-till. Each season, my no-till garden gets covered with a 2-3-inch layer of compost to stop weeds. Rodents cannot find a safe harbor in this type of mulch, unlike straw and leaf mulch. (Click here to learn how to create a no-till vegetable garden.)
  3. Plant resistant varieties. The more disease- and pest-resistant the vegetable varieties you choose, the better.
  4. Space plants and rows well. Increased airflow and space in the garden will dissuade many diseases, pests, and rodents. (Click here for more tips for tackling rodents and other mammalian pests.)
  5. Plan for pests: If your cabbages have had cabbage worms in the past, expect the worms to return. Apply pre-emptive applications of safe, OMRI Listed BT spray to stop them in their tracks. By learning the life cycles of different pests that have plagued your garden in the past, you can plan precise strikes with the correct pesticides.
  6. Give your plants a good head start. Choose (or raise) the healthiest plants you can. Large, robust seedlings have a greater chance of resisting pests and diseases and producing high yields. If growing plants from seed, be sure to give your seedlings plenty of light and room to develop stout, dense growth, and ample root systems. (Click here for seed-starting tips.)

I hope these tips help. You may also want to watch the video about overcoming powdery mildew below.

Happy vegetable gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do I Protect My Tomato Fruits from Insects and Slugs?

How Do I Protect My Tomato Fruits from Insects and Slugs?

“How can I keep bugs and slugs from destroying my tomato fruit? They totally decimated my crop this year leaving me nothing to can for the winter months.” Question from Sylvia of Belle Plaine, Minnesota

Answer: There are several things that you can do to ensure that insects and slugs don’t damage your tomatoes. Here are six methods.

Six Ways to Stop Pests From Eating Tomatoes

  1. Clean your vegetable beds up completely in the fall, and till lightly in the spring. This will remove any overwintering pest eggs.
  2. In the spring, apply a layer of quality compost as a surface mulch to stop weeds and create an open, weed-free layer to keep slugs away (slugs often hide in weeds).
  3. Use tall tomato cages, and prune your tomatoes to keep developing fruits off of the ground and away from slugs and critters.
  4. Apply diatomaceous earth at the base of your tomato plants to deter slugs. You can also use Sluggo, a good slug killer that is approved for organic gardening.
  5. Plant your tomatoes in the full sun (8+ hours) at least 3-4 feet apart, leaving space between plants. This will discourage slugs, which cannot withstand the sun and avoid open ground.
  6. Apply BT spray, which is also approved for organic gardening, if tomato hornworms or other caterpillars attack your plants and fruits.

Finally, be sure to choose good tomato varieties for northern gardeners for better yields. (Click here for more tomato growing tips and varieties for northern gardeners.)

I hope that these tips help!

Happy tomato growing,

 

What Preventative Strategies Stop Garden Pests Before They Attack?

“What is best to use to be on the offensive and keep pests from coming into your garden?” Question from Marilyn of Roseburg, Oregon

Answer: You cannot keep pests from visiting, especially if you are growing their favorite foods. But, cleanliness, monitoring, and planting robust pest-resistant varieties are three excellent tools for keeping pests at bay. Planning ahead for potential pests is another tactic. Let me flesh out these tips a bit more.

Give Good Plants a Good Head Start

Stressed plants emit hormones that attract potential pests, so keeping plants happy and healthy is important. When choosing vegetable starts at your local nursery, select disease and pest-resistant varieties, pick large plants with no leaf damage, and avoid highly root-bound plants. (Bound roots have a dense, interwoven network of roots with little potting mix. Gently lift plants from their pots to see the roots.) Bound root systems must be cut and separated at planting time, which puts undue stress on transplants.

Choose (or raise) the healthiest plants you can. Large, robust seedlings have a greater chance of resisting pests and diseases and producing high yields. If growing plants from seed, be sure to give your seedlings plenty of light and room to develop stout, dense growth, and ample root systems. Planting one seedling per pot will help avoid competition. Fertilize starts lightly, so they are as strong at planting time. (Click here for seed starting tips.)

Keep Plants and Beds Clean

A clean, weed-free garden with open spaces between plants yields better fruit by increasing light exposure and airflow. Under clean, open conditions, pests and diseases are slower to take hold and easier to manage. Walkways covered with straw, leaf mulch, or compost also make is nicer and easier to walk through the garden and care for plants in all weather.

Keep plants clean! Bushy veggies, such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant, are especially important to clean and prune to minimize the spread of disease and pests. (Click here to learn how to prune tomatoes.) Remove dying, diseased, or infested leaves and stems or any unwieldy branches that inhibit airflow and light where it needs to reach. When pruning, clean your pruners from one plant to the next by dipping them in a 10% bleach solution to reduce the chances of any cross-contamination of potential diseases. At the end of the season, remove all garden litter and plant material from the garden soil that may harbor overwintering pests and diseases.

Plan For Pests You’ve Experienced Before

If your cabbages have had cabbage loopers or your petunias have had budworms in the past, expect them to return. Apply pre-emptive applications of OMRI Listed BT to stop them in their tracks. By learning the life cycles of different pests that have plagued your garden in the past, you can plan precise strikes with the correct pesticides. (Reach out to the Oregon State Extension Service for more information and to take advantage of their many online resources for Oregon vegetable gardeners.)

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

How Do I Stop Squirrels from Eating My Flower Bulbs?

“I have a problem with squirrels digging up my flower bulbs. What can I do?” Question from Susan of Lexington, Kentucky

Answer: Squirrels, voles, mice, and other related creatures dig up tulip certain crocus bulbs but dislike most others. Tulip bulbs are especially tasty treats that hungry critters will dig up in fall and winter when food is scarce or the bulbs look best on the garden menu. Here are several potential solutions that will stop them in their tracks.

Protect Your Tulip Bulbs

Gardeners use various methods to protect their tulips.

  1. Apply vole or squirrel repellents after planting bulbs. These will detur digging and consumption.  Shake-Away Coyote Urine is one option.
  2. Another method is to plant tulips 1 to 2 inches deeper–8 inches rather than 6. This can only be done with large-bulbed tulips, like Triumphs and Giant Darwins. Most animals are less likely to dig as deep or detect the bulbs below.
  3. Place chicken wire over tulip bulb plantings, which can be easily lifted after the blooms fade in spring. The wire will protect the bulbs before blooming. It is always nice to cover wire sheeting with mulch so it cannot be seen.
  4. Plant tulips that naturalize, like chrysantha tulips, which spread and resist predation in numbers.

Plant Other Bulbs

Daffodils, chionodoxa, fritillaria, scilla, muscari, and other bulbs are not as palatable to rodents, so plant lots of these instead. Many of these bulbs naturally spread to make your spring garden more and more beautiful each year. Amending bulb plantings with Black Gold Garden Compost Blend and a fertilizer formulated for bulbs will help them perform their best.

I hope that these tips help.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

How Can I Remove Spider Mites from My Adenium?

“Help!  My 4-year-old Adenium has always thrived.  Last year it put out 6 seed pods and this year the blooms were massive overpowering any green.  When the blooms finally stopped all the older leaves turned yellow and dropped.  But new ones were coming out.  Now the new ones are all curling and while green on the top the bottoms have brown spots.  It’s in the sun all day long and while we had a wet spring (before the blooms) the summer has been dry and hot.  When the leaves started turning yellow (over a month ago) I noticed spider mites so I sprayed them with an insecticide soap for 2 weeks and they are gone but now the leaves are all curled and brown spots on the underside only.  How can I save this plant?” Question from Julie of McKinney Texas

Answer: The good thing is the succulents like Adeniums have lots of stored energy, so once you totally rid them of the spider mites, they will bounce back quickly. To truly eradicate the mites, you will have to spray more than just the foliage.

How to Treat Plants for Spider Mites

Here are the steps I would take to completely remove spider mites from an Adenium.

  1. Remove damaged, yellowing leaves.
  2. Wipe down the base of the plant and stems.
  3. Wipe down the pot.
  4. Remove the top 2 inches of potting mix, and replace it with a quality cactus mix, such as Black Gold Cactus Mix.
  5. Fertilize with a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for flowering plants.
  6. Spray all plant parts with insecticidal soap or Neem oil.

The white-paper test is my favorite way to further test for mites. Take a clean piece of white paper, hold it beneath the leaves, then tap the leaves onto the paper. If you have mites, tiny specs will fall, and eventually, they will start crawling around. These are spider mites. Continue to do the tap test and gently wipe down leaves and stems and spray them until healthy new growth appears and remains undamaged. It may take time, but you can overcome spider mites.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist