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Author: JESSIE KEITH

Plants are the lens Jessie views the world through because they’re all-sustaining. (“They feed, clothe, house and heal us. They produce the air we breathe and even make us smell pretty.”) She’s a garden writer and photographer with degrees in both horticulture and plant biology from Purdue and Michigan State Universities. Her degrees were bolstered by internships at Longwood Gardens and the American Horticultural Society. She has since worked for many horticultural institutions and companies and now manages communications for Sun Gro Horticulture, the parent company of Black Gold. Her joy is sharing all things green and lovely with her two daughters.

Does Mulch Along a Home’s Foundation Attract Termites?

Does Mulch Along a Home’s Foundation Attract Termites?

“I’ve heard that its not a good idea to place mulch too close to a house’s foundation. I was also told to mulch or plant shrubs around my house’s foundation to prevent my kids from getting lead poisoning from the old chipped off paint in the soil. What should I put near my foundation, bricks? Also, how far from my foundation should I plant vetiver grass? I’m having trouble finding guidance on how far from my brick foundation it should be with its deep root system.” Veronica of Clay City, Indiana

Answer: Some speculate that termites may be attracted to or reside in bark mulch. It is true that termites can eat bark mulch, but they survive and form colonies in solid wood, so bark mulch not a terribly strong termite lure. Moreover, newer homes are generally protected from termites, and older homes should be for their longterm protection.

Either way, there are other mulch options that are certain not to harbor or attract any termites. These include pine straw, chopped leaf mulch, stone mulch, and even quality Black Gold Garden Compost Blend. (Please click here for a full overview of different mulch options.) My personal favorite is pine straw. It looks tidy and really helps to detur weeds.

The best way to keep kids away from the soil at the base of the home is to plant lawn or shrubs along your foundation (click here for some good flowering shrubs for foundations). Ornamental grasses are another option, but I would not recommend vetiver grass (Vetiveria zizanoide, Zones 7-8) because it is a warm-climate grass that will not be hardy in your Zone 5 garden, and it is weedy. Better, more beautiful, sun-loving grasses for your foundation include Karl Foerster Feather Reed Grass, Prairie Winds® ‘Apache Rose’ Switch Grass, or Little Zebra Dwarf Zebra Grass. All need sunshine and should be planted 2 to 4 feet from your foundation in a mulched bed, depending on the final height and width of the grass you choose.

I hope that these tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do I Divide German Bearded Iris?

How Do I Divide German Bearded Iris?

“When dividing iris bulbs, how many should remain in the original site, which is around 2 x 2 feet? The iris’ are of the tall, bearded variety. They are a solid royal blue. I am uncertain of the exact variety, but they have to be an heirloom species as they were transplanted in 1950 from a family member’s garden that was started in the 1920s.” Question from Ann of Raleigh, North Carolina

Answer: How wonderful to have a garden German bearded iris (Iris x germanica hybrids) that is truly a family heirloom! We have peonies that were owned by my great great grandparents. Plants like these are irreplaceable and real treasures. Care must be taken when moving them.

A 2-by-2-foot iris clump can easily be divided into quarters, allowing you to leave a 1-foot clump behind and have three to share or move about your garden as you wish. Here are a few tips for dividing and transplanting German bearded iris properly.

How to Divide German Bearded Iris

German bearded iris rhizomes should be planted as they grow, with their bulbous rhizomes rising halfway from the soil. (Image by Jamain)
  1. Trim back any old flower stems or dead leaves. This makes the moving process easier.
  2. Dig beneath and gently lift the bulbous roots–removing 3/4 of the clump, in your case. Because German bearded iris roots are large, rhizomatous, and half-exposed along the soil surface, dig beneath them and break away the roots of clumps at natural breaks. Damage the roots below as little as possible. Remove any rhizomes that are sunken and damaged or dead.
  3. Fill in holes left behind with soil and compost. Fill in around your existing clump with soil and quality compost, such as Black Gold Garden Compost Blend.
  4. Pot or plant the iris divisions. Plant the rhizomes in a sunny location. Amend the garden soil with compost or peat moss, and make sure that it drains well. Plant iris rhizomes as they naturally grow–with the tops exposed to the air and light. Planting them too deeply can be deadly.

I hope that these tips help! Happy iris moving and planting.

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What is the Best Time to Divide Perennial Hibiscus?

What is the Best Time to Divide Perennial Hibiscus?

“When is the best time to divide Hibiscus?” Question from Melanie of Holton, Michigan

Answer: Mid-spring is the best time to divide perennial Hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos and hybrids, USDA Hardiness Zone 5-9), especially when you live further north. Remember that this hibiscus requires warmth to sprout from the ground, so it is one of the last perennials to emerge in late spring. First, only divide clumps that are 8 to 10 inches across. Anything smaller is too small to create a big show in the coming summer. Then, using a sharp spade, cut down the center of the clump to split it in half. Amend the soil with quality organic matter, such as Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss or Garden Compost Blend, before planting. A Continuous Release Fertilizer formulated for flowering perennials is also recommended.

I hope that this helps!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

How Do You Safely Overwinter Rose Containers?

How Do You Safely Overwinter Rose Containers?

“I have roses in containers. What is the best way to overwinter them in zone 6b? I have a Winchester Cathedral, a Young Lycidas, and a Jubilee Celebration. There is another one that looks similar to the Young Lycidas, but the flowers and scent are a bit different. It is also a David Austin rose, but it was unmarked when I got it from a nursery a couple of years ago.” – Question from Kristen of Stephens City, Virginia

Answer: Start by identifying the hardiness zones for each rose, if you can. In this instance, Winchester Cathedral, Young Lycidas, and Jubilee Celebration are all hardy to USDA Hardiness Zones 5-11. The rule of thumb is that potted shrubs must be at least two hardiness zones hardier than yours to reliably survive winter in an exposed container. Because you live in a Zone 6 area, and your roses are not hardy to Zone 4, you will need to protect your potted roses from hard freezes.

How to Protect Potted Roses from Hard Freezes

There are several methods. Just remember, that regardless of where you place your rose, the pot cannot become completely dry. If placed in a garage or under a patio or eave, supplemental water will be needed to keep the plants alive. Too much moisture can also be detrimental, so I recommend twice-monthly watering through winter, to be safe. Here are four reliable methods of protection.

  1. Protect the pots and roses where they stand. Mound Black Gold Garden Compost Blend around the base of the rose, wrap the top in burlap (tops can be tied or lightly pruned to make this process easier). Mound mulch or moistened chopped leaves along the base of the pot as insulation.
  2. Move the pots of a protected area against the side of the house away from wind. If you live in a very windy area, use this outdoor method. Mound compost around the base of the rose, and wrap the top in burlap. Mound mulch or moistened chopped leaves along the base of the pot to act as insulation.
  3. Move the pots to a protected garage. Place your pots in a safe zone in the garage. Slightly dry roses overwinter better than overwatered ones, so maintain light watering as detailed above.
  4. Move the pots to a protected basement or root cellar that remains cold enough to keep them dormant. Freezing or near-freezing temperatures are necessary.

In the spring, remove any protective coverings and organic layers. It is especially important to move the compost away from the base of the rose and into the garden.

I hope that these tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What Rosemary Varieties Survive in Southern California?

What Rosemary Varieties Survive in Southern California?

“Will rosemary plants survive a mild winter in Zone 9?” Question from Linda of Fresno, California

Answer: Yes! Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is a drought- and heat-tolerant Mediterranean shrub made for California growing. Here are my top four favorite rosemaries that will grow beautifully where you live. Each is unique in its own way.

Top Four Favorite Rosemary Varieties

  1. ‘Blue Boy’ dwarf rosemary (Zones 8-10): The low-growing ‘Blue Boy’ stays 6-8 inches tall and spreads to a foot and a half. It’s perfect for containers and flowers well.
  2. ‘Irene’ weeping rosemary (Zones 8-10): Plant this along the edge of a retaining wall or large pot. Its lavender-blue flowers, flavorful stems, and cascading habit make it a very impressive choice.
  3. ‘Arp’ hardy rosemary (Zones 6-10): Here’s the rosemary that I grow on the East Coast. It is big, bushy, flavorful, and will survive very cold winters.
  4. ‘Tuscan Blue‘ (Zones 8-10): Noted for its vigorous nature, bushy habit, and wealth of spring flowers, ‘Tuscan Blue’ is also exceptional for cooking.

I hope that some of these great rosemary plants interest you.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What Spring Bulbs are Good for Bees and Hummingbirds?

Bees live the little blue flowers of Siberian squill.

“Which bulbs are good to plant for bees and hummingbirds?” Question from Shonda of Ore City, Texas

Answer: I will list bulbs that grow well in your USDA Hardiness Zone 8 garden. Here are some of the best bee- and hummingbird-pollinated spring bulbs for your area.

Spring Bulbs for Bees

Daffodils of all kinds are pollinated by bees, and you are in the southernmost zone for daffodil growing. (Click here for a guide to southern daffodils.) They are doubly desirable because they naturally spread and deer will not eat them. Tulips and hyacinths are also heavily visited by bees. Early flowering crocuses, little blue Siberian squill, grape hyacinths, and Grecian windflowers are several more of my early spring favorites for bees. (Watch the video below to discover many more early bulbs for bees.)

Spring Bulbs for Hummingbirds

Crown Imperial Rubra Maxima has spectacular flowers that attract hummingbirds. (Image by Sir James)

There are fewer spring bulbs for hummingbirds, but those that attract them are spectacular. The California native firecracker flower (Dichelostemma ida-maia), which blooms in May or June, is especially unique and pretty. The standard form is red, but ‘Pink Diamond‘ has deep pinkish-purple flowers. Orange-red crown imperials (Fritillaria imperialis ‘Rubra Maxima’) are also outstanding spring bulbs that hummingbirds enjoy. The tall, bold flowers bloom in late spring as hummingbirds start visiting the garden. Finally, late-spring blooming foxtail lilies (Eremerus hybrids) are visited by both hummingbirds and bees. They produce tall wands of pink, orange, or yellow flowers. Plant their bulbs in very well-drained soil amended with Black Gold Garden Compost Blend.

Happy bulb planting,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

Should I Cut My Chives Back in Fall?

Should I Cut My Chives Back in Fall?

“[I] have a question regarding my chives. They have flowered. Should I cut them back now this time of year or leave them be?” Question from Jeanne of Coldwater, Michigan

Answer: The foliage of edible chives (Allium schoenoprasum) will remain attractive and clippable until the first frost causes the strappy leaves to flop. You can cut them back at this time if you wish. Otherwise, leave them up to enjoy through fall. The same goes for summer-flowering ornamental onions.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Why Does My Pilea Have Black Spots on Its Lower Leaves?

“Why is my Chinese money plant (Pilea peperomioides) getting black spots? It’s almost always the lower leaves.” Question from Katherine of Las Vegas, Nevada

Answer: There are several reasons why the semi-succulent Chinese money plant gets black spots. First, consider what it needs to grow. The South China native naturally grows in shaded forests in well-drained soils among damp rocks at higher altitudes. It likes even moisture, constant moderate temperatures, and humidity. Arid high heat, full sun, or excessive soil moisture are its enemies.

Top Four Leaf Spot Causes in Pilea peperomioides

  1. Overwatering – When the plants are overwatered gardeners often see lower leaf yellowing and spotting. Remove the sickened leaves, make sure that the pot drains well, make sure the soil drains well but holds moisture, and reduce watering.
  2. Direct Sunlight – Too much sun can cause this pilea stress. Declining leaves will often show spots.
  3. Pests and Disease – Whiteflies and other sucking insects can cause black sooty mold as well as leave decline. Have you seen any pests on your plant? Certain fungal diseases can also cause spotting. In this case, lower watering and remove the sickly leaves.
  4. Nutrient Deficiency – Some nutrient deficiencies, particularly potassium deficiency, can cause leaf yellowing and burning. Be sure to feed plants with a balanced fertilizer for foliage plants monthly.

In your case, I think that overwatering is likely the culprit. Make sure you grow it as an indoor plant in hot, arid Las Vegas. Black Gold® All Purpose Potting Mix is a great potting mix option for this Pilea.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

How Do I Repot and Care for My Plumeria?

My Plumeria needs repotting. What is the best soil and pot type?  What amount of sunlight is best – morning, noon? Watering schedule? Question from Jean of Diamond Bar, California

Answer: Frangipani or Plumeria (Plumeria species) shrubs are tropicals that are native to Mexico, Central America, and South America. There are many species that have been bred to create a fine array of colorful varieties–nearly 400 garden varieties are registered.

Plumeria Growing Needs

There are several things that plumerias need to grow well. They grow and flower best with full sun (6 hours or more per day) and warm temperatures (60 to 90 degrees F). Because they are susceptible to root rot, they require contains and potting soil that is slightly acid (6.4 to 6.8 pH) and drains well. Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix with a little added Black Gold Perlite would be ideal.  There are specialty plumeria flower fertilizers on the market or you can choose, or you can simply use a fertilizer formulated for flowering shrubs.

How to Repot a Plumaria

Repot your plumeria every two to three years. A new pot should be at least three inches larger than the last. Plumerias emit a milky latex when damaged, which can be irritating to the skin and eyes, so wear garden gloves and long sleeves when repotting them.

Cover the bottom of the pot with a shallow layer of mix. Then gently lift your plumeria out of its old pot. Adjust and center the root ball in the new pot. Add new soil to the base as needed. Once planted, there should be 2 inches of headspace at the top for watering. If the roots are intertwined, or pot-bound, then gently tease them apart along the bottom and sides to increase establishment and water and nutrient uptake.

Add fresh mix along the sides and work it down firmly to increase soil-to-root contact and remove air pockets. Water in your new plant until water runs from the bottom of the pot. Fill in any receded spots along the sides and water in again. Begin to fertilize a week or two after planting. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Happy plumeria planting!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

What are Good, Easy House Plants for Beginners?

“What are good, low maintenance, indoor house plants for beginners?” Question from Chelsea of Alpena, Michigan

Answer: We created a video for you to see some of Black Gold Horticulturist Jessie Keith’s top nine easy house plants for beginners. Each is attractive, easy to grow, and tolerates a series of different light and growing conditions. We hope that it helps!