Articles

Plants for Creative Fall Container Gardens

Combine Intenz™ Dark Purple spike celosia, variegated sedge, and a dusty purple ornamental cabbage for a fun fall container trio.

Tired of planting the same old door-side potted chrysanthemums year after year?  Then upgrade this year’s containers! Lots of cool new fall plants have bold good looks and bright colors to make container design a lot more exciting.

What makes a container plant great for fall? Its must flaunt its best color through the season and shine up until the first frost or beyond. Those that tough it out after frost include ornamental cabbages, kales, and Swiss chard. Some of these fall beauties will even survive through winter as evergreen biennials or perennials. Here are some of our favorites for creative late-season container gardening.

Super Celosias and Amaranths

The plume Celosia ‘Fresh Look Red’ will ignite your fall containers.

Celosias and amaranths (two closely related plants) of all shapes, sizes, and colors have become available for fall gardening. These include spike celosia (Celosia spicata), classic cockscomb, plume celosias (Celosia cristata), and purple-leaved amaranths (Amaranthus spp.). The annuals are rugged and tolerant of heat as well as the cooling temperatures of fall, so they can be planted in summer and continue to look bright through fall. Just remember to remove any old blooms that start to lose color. This will encourage new flowers to appear.

Pretty Peppers

Jolly pots of mixed ornamental peppers make great additions to mixed fall container gardens.

Ornamental peppers start to look great by late summer, and their pretty fruits of orange, yellow, red, or purple will retain their color up until frost. Some even boast deep purple foliage as well as pretty fruits. The hot ornamentals mix well with any seasonal garden flower or plant, and you can even save seeds for spring sowing. The peppers are also edible and spicy, with varying degrees of flavor. (See the video below for more designs using ornamental peppers.)

Happy Heirloom Squash

A slate-blue hubbard squash, white ‘Cotton Candy’ pumpkin, and bumpy ‘Galeux d’Eysines’ pumpkin are nestled in a pot of Proven Winners’ Diamond Frost® Euphorbia.

Unusual pumpkins and winter squash are all the rage and look lovely when nestled in pots alongside complementary fall flowers. Most are very tasty, so it’s nice to bring them indoors before a hard freeze, so you can enjoy them in Thanksgiving pies, soups, or cakes. (Click here to learn how to process squash for pie.) Look for collections of squash that look good together or with your favorite fall flowers.

Sumptuous Evergreen Sedges

A single mop of evergreen ‘Toffee Twist’ sedge will fill a pot, adding interest to other colorful potted plants.

Many grassy sedges are tough evergreen perennials that add an airy appeal to fall containers and mix well with practically any fall flower. Some lovely evergreen sedges to try include the gold-edged Japanese sedge (Carex morrowii ‘Gold Band’, 12 inches, USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9) or white-edged Silver Sceptre sedge (Carex ‘Silver Sceptre’, 12-18 inches, Zones 5-9); both have tidy bunches of colorful, curvaceous, strappy leaves that flow over container edges. Another star for containers is the finer, hair-like Toffee Twist sedge (Carex flagellifera ‘Toffee Twist’, 12-16 inches, Zones 7-9), a Proven Winners® plant with fine, caramel-colored foliage that looks great all winter.

Sturdy Succulents

A nest of evergreen hens & chicks is brightened by a single ‘Sweet Lightning’ mini winter squash.

Hardy succulents of all shapes and sizes look great in fall containers and will even survive the winter, where hardy. Go simple by nestling a few hens & chicks (Sempervivum spp.) within a small planter embellished with a few decorative additions. Or, go bold by planting a big, blooming sedum along with other fall flowers. Tall sedums are showy in fall, and there are many fabulous varieties to discover. (Click here to read more about tall sedums.)

Miniature Plants

Tiny hens & chicks, mosses, cabbages, thyme, heather, and sweet alyssum bring this mini fall garden to life.

Creating seasonal containers in miniature is a popular trend. Tiny hens & chicks, mosses, heathers, ornamental cabbages, and flowers give broad pots or troughs an alpine or rock garden look. Place plantings like these on an outdoor dinner or side table where they can be enjoyed up close. You can even try making your own hypertufa trough or centerpiece for attractive little fall plantings. (Click here to learn how to make your own hypertufa centerpiece.)

Planting Fall Containers

Give mums a lift with additions like purple heuchera, Sedum Rock ‘N Grow® Popstar, and arching willow branches.

Choose festive containers and arrangements of plants, and pair them according to color, size, height, and texture. For best results, choose good-fit containers that will accommodate the plants you have chosen, and fill them with Black Gold All Purpose Mix, which has excellent porosity and water-holding ability for great results. Keep pots watered through fall and feed them with quality plant food, such as Proven Winners® Premium Water Soluble Plant Food for Flowering Plants. Once hard cold hits, remove any unsightly dead annuals and leave any perennials in the pots for spring.

To get more excellent fall container garden planting and design tips, read Black Gold’s sponsored article on Garden Therapy: Fall Container Care and Maintenance + DIY Container Ideas!

How Do I Stop the Spotted Lanternflies in My Garden?

How Do I Stop the Spotted Lanternfly in My Garden?

“How Do I Stop the Spotted Lanternfly in My Garden?” Question from Tulip Tramp of Wilmington, Delaware

Answer: Oh, you asked the right question. Spotted lanternflies (Lycorma delicatula) first appeared in my garden this year, so I am getting firsthand experience trying to manage them, and they are a nightmare. They are prolific, large, and cluster and suck the juices out of trees in very high numbers–enough to kill. They are lightning-fast, hard-to-kill, and nasty. In my yard, they attack black walnut (Juglans nigra) and willow trees (Salix spp.). They’ve also been hanging out on my dahlias and cardoon. For whatever reason, these fruit-tree pests have yet to attack my peach trees, apple trees, and fig–likely because they favor black walnuts. But, I am also on a quest to lower their numbers and keep them away from my garden.

Spotted Lanternfly Origins

Tree of Heaven is the favorite tree of spotted lanternflies, but they also attack fruit trees, grapes, and black walnuts. (Image by Luis Fernández García)

Spotted lanternflies are highly destructive insects that originate from China, India, and East Asia. Their preferred host is tree-of-heaven (Ailanthus altissima), a Chinese tree that was first brought to the United States in 17 84 and quickly became a common weed tree across much of North America. Tree-of-heaven contains chemicals that make spotted lanternflies bad-tasting and inedible–giving them natural protection from predators that would eat them.

Aggressive spotted lanternflies are newcomers to our shores. They were first discovered in the United States in eastern Pennsylvania in the fall of 2014. Since then, they have taken over areas across Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Virginia, where they have caused huge economic damage to the forest, orchard-fruit, and grape industries as well as home landscapes and gardens and the businesses that serve them.

Thankfully, these insects can be somewhat cold-sensitive. “The researchers found that bark temperature of about 14 degrees Fahrenheit is the limit at which the beetle can survive (Frank Kummer, The Philadelphia Inquirer, 2018).” That means they will be limited to regions with milder winters, maybe as cold as USDA Hardiness Zone 5.

Spotted Lanternfly Life Cycle and Management

When you know an insect pest’s life cycle, it provides more knowledge to work with when sorting out ways to kill it. A spotted lanternfly female lays many eggs on branches (or practically anything else when populations are high). One female can lay one or two rows of 30 – 60 eggs. The egg masses are camouflaged with a layer of a protective substance that looks like mud. If you can find the eggs, scrape them off and smash them on sight (see the video below).

The first-hatch, or first-instar, nymphs emerge in May or June, and at this time, they are most vulnerable to pesticides. The nymphs begin to suck at the stems of trees, secreting honeydew as they go. The honeydew then encourages the growth of black mold, another negative side effect of these pests. As the lanternflies grow, they shed their skins and develop new features–including wings. Adults are much harder to kill.

Spotted Lanternfly Management Methods

I favor organic gardening, so I try to work with OMRI Listed pesticides, but spotted lanternflies can be hard to destroy. From what I have read, effective insecticides that are approved for organic gardening include Stoller’s Golden Pest Spray Oil and insecticides containing pyrethroids, among others. These have also been shown to kill nymphs quickly up to the third instar. More powerful insecticides are needed to efficiently kill adults, so it is best to try to kill lanternflies early on.

Initially, I tried to use insecticidal soap on first and second instar nymphs in my yard, but it was not powerful enough to kill them all. Now, I am moving to Safer pyrethrin spray, which is stronger. It should work better. I have also invested in a sprayer that will allow me to target higher tree branches where I see the pests in masses. Pyrethrin spray can also kill beneficial insects and pollinators, so I am just going to target the spotted lanternflies that are on my black walnuts and willows and keep the spray away from any garden flowers. If you can reach them, early instar lanternflies are also easy to kill by just dropping them in soapy water. They cannot swim and die quickly. Hopefully, a combination of these steps will make an impact.

Penn State is also working on a potential bio-insecticide (derived from a native fungus) for lanternflies (click here to learn more). Let’s hope this research will offer an easier, natural way to kill the beasts.

For more information about research and possible management ideas, contact your local extension agent and let them know that you have found lanternflies on your property. Visit U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) extension website to find your local agent.

Happy spotted lanternfly hunting. Maybe if we all work to manage them in our yards, we can reduce their populations for the good of all.

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

I also could not resist adding this very clever trap method devised by a very smart teen in my area!

What Is The Best Soil for Raised Beds?

“I built 2 beds measuring 4′ x 16′ and 2 foot deep.  I don’t think I need a Black Gold mix for the bottom half.  What is something I could [add to] the bottom half of the boxes?  Also are Black Gold products meant as a supplement to the soil or a soil replacement?” Question from Kevin of Rome, Georgia

Answer: We have many amendments and soils suitable for raised bed gardening, but we now sell a natural raised bed soil that is specially formulated for your type of garden. Black Gold® Natural & Organic Raised Bed & Potting Mix is just for raised bed gardening, is sold in cost-effective large bales and is OMRI Listed for organic gardening. If you wish to supplement with additional soils or amendments, try the following bulk and/or bagged options.

  1. Quality screened bulk compost, leaf compost, or mushroom compost – These are all rich and fortifying but high in organic matter, which eventually breaks down over time and needs to be replenished.
  2. Quality screened bulk topsoil – Topsoil contains mineral soil as well as organic matter, so not all of its components will break down over time.
  3. Bagged compost, such as Black Gold Garden Compost Blend – This is a good option for smaller-scale raised bed gardening. Treat it as you would bulk compost.

Products sold in bulk are generally available at large landscape supply centers and are sold by the yard. Add topsoil of compost at a ratio of one part topsoil or compost to two parts bagged mix.

Before ordering any soil, be sure you know how much you need by using the soil application formula. Also, be sure to feed your soil with quality fertilizer formulated for vegetable gardening.

Soil Application Formula

To find the amount of soil you will need, determine the volume of your square or rectangular bed by measuring its length, width, and height. Then use the following formula: V = L x W x H.

V = soil volume
L = bed length
W = bed width
H = bed height

So, if your bed happens to be 6 feet x 4 feet x 1.5 feet, multiply 6 x 4 x 1.5 = 36 cubic feet. Our raised bed soil is sold in 2.2 cf bales. To determine the amount of bagged soil you might need (36 cubic feet/2.2 cf bales= 16). If you plan to add topsoil at a 1:3 ratio, then you will need 2/3 mix (24 cubic feet (10.66 2.2 cubic foot bags of raised bed potting mix)) and 1/3 topsoil (12 cubic feet of topsoil). If you want to buy topsoil by the yard, then you must know yardage. Divide the answer in cubic feet by 27 to get the number of cubic yards you might need (36/27= 1.3 cubic yards).

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

(For more tips click here for a full overview of how to prep a new vegetable garden from start to finish.)

I hope that these tips help.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Cultivate’20 Virtual

Sun Gro and Black Gold will attend the free Cultivate’20 Virtual presented by American Hort. It will be held online from July 13 to July 16, 2020. Visit our virtual 3D exhibit booth, enjoy seeing many speakers, take part in virtual networking events, and lots of educational opportunities. It promises to be a truly exciting online event for the green industry. Don’t miss it!

“For nearly 100 years, Cultivate has been known as THE event for every segment of the green industry. As the source of best practices, new plant varieties, and product innovation, Cultivate’20 Virtual is the place to network with old colleagues and meet new ones.”

Green Roof Essentials for Home Gardeners

Any green roof added to a home, such as this stylish patio green roof, should be fully or partially professionally installed.

“A roof of asphalt shingles is a desert wasteland compared to a living, cooling, vital green roof.” -Jessie Keith

Even small-scale green roofs need specialized knowledge for success. You can’t just throw potting mix on top of your garden shed, patio roof, or chicken coop, plant a few succulents, and call it a green roof. Do it slap-dash, and you’ll get a big mess. Start outright, and you’ll have a lovely longterm addition to your garden or home. Here are some essentials to consider when designing and creating a small-scale green roof.

Green Roof Benefits

It is not uncommon for European garden sheds, such as this shed in Norway, to have green roofs.

Well-crafted green roofs benefit buildings and the environment. They cool structures in the summer, hold heat in winter and reduce noise in homes. They benefit the environment by reducing stormwater runoff, increasing habitat and food for wildlife, and providing green space to reduce carbon emissions. On a larger scale, green roofs in cities reduce the urban heat island effect (increased temperatures caused by widespread heat-absorbing asphalt and roofs and too little plant life to reduce heat). According to the EPA, “Air temperatures in cities, particularly after sunset, can be as much as 22°F (12°C) warmer than the air in neighboring, less developed regions.” Green roofs are also perfect for those of us that have a little hobbit in our veins and simply love plants and green spaces.

Their real-world benefits are measurable. Cities invested in green-roof technology see positive impacts fast. According to the non-profit Green Roofs for Healthy Cities (GRFHC), “In 2019, 14 green roof companies recorded 763 projects in 35 US states and three Canadian Provinces, installing 3,112,818 square feet of green roofing.” The 3,112,818 square feet provided the following measurable gains:

  • 36.9 million gallons of stormwater retained per year;
  • 120 tons of carbon sequestered every two years;
  • 5.06 million kWh (equivalent) of energy saved per year;
  • 1,199 full-time equivalent (FTE) construction jobs;
  • 45 full-time equivalent (FTE) maintenance jobs annually.

Even small green roofs can make a difference to homeowners and the local wildlife. A roof of asphalt shingles is a desert wasteland compared to a living, cooling, vital green roof.

Green Roof Types

Intensive green roofs, such as this urban green roof, have soil that is deeper and able to sustain larger plants that require more soil and water.

There are two basic green roof types (with many variations in between), extensive and intensive. Extensive types are shallow (4-6 inches of soil), lighter, lower-care green roofs planted with tough, hardy succulents. Sometimes they are even planted as small grasslands. Intensive green roofs are deeper (6+ inches of soil), heavier, and higher maintenance. These are found on large urban apartment or corporate buildings with built-in green roof gardens or even farms.

Homes able to accommodate intensive green roofs are specially built to sustain them. Even those with extensive green roofs are bolstered to handle the extra weight. Extensive green roofs on architecturally simple yard or garden structures are less of a worry.

Extensive Green Roof Layers

Modular extensive green-roof boxes have layers for growing hardy succulents and fit together to cover waterproofed rooftops.
  1. Adapted from Small Green Roofs.

    Vegetation Layer: Low-growing, low-water plants are best.

  2. Soil Layer: The “soil” layer consists of a soilless growing medium that requires replenishment over the years. It often contains various mineral components, such as pumice and perlite, and organic components, such as coconut coir and Canadian Sphagnum peat moss. In some European countries, they use ground soil because its mineral content does not break down.
  3. Filter Mat: This is a thin, geotextile layer with fine pores that keep particles out of the drainage layer while allowing water through. (Heavyweight landscape fabric works well.)
  4. Drainage Layer: Lightweight small or medium lava rock (scoria) stones, expanded clay, or shale are common drainage-layer minerals that will not degrade. (Small lava rock is a good choice.)
  5. Waterproof Membrane: Choose synthetic waterproof sheeting made for green roofs. It is specially designed to resist weathering and cracking. (Deck waterproofing membrane is a good option for small-scale projects.)
  6. Thermal Insulation: A commercial insulation layer is required for heated buildings but not needed for small-scale, outdoor green roofs.
  7. Roof Deck: The roof base-layer is generally wood.
  8. Edging: A long-lasting edge must be applied to keep all layers in place while also permitting drainage. Pebbles are usually placed along the edge to allow water to filter to a downspout. Good drainage is essential to avoid washout or other problems. (Wood edges can be used, or metal edge restraints can be specially purchased.)

Some of these layers can be bypassed with the use of modular green roof trays designed on plastic bases made to sit and fit on a waterproofed roof deck. These are generally only accessible to professionals, so home gardeners would need to work through a contractor to get them.

Extensive Green Roof Essentials

Rustic logs edge this green roof that covers a small garden storage space.

Small-scale green roofs may be tiny enough to cover a doghouse, such as Schicketanz’s beautifully designed prefab doggy dream house, or can bedeck larger garden structures, such as a pavilion or succulent covered patio roof. (A knowledgeable contractor is needed for bigger projects.) Here are essentials to consider when planning any green roof project.

  1. Design for Maintainance – Easy access is essential for future maintenance. Consider how you plan to weed and modify plantings on your roof. Irrigation may also be needed during very hot, droughty times. On larger, flat roofs, maintenance walkways of stone increase accessibility. Laying down irrigation tape that is easily hooked up to the hose makes watering easy.
  2. Determine Structural Load-Bearing Capacity – According to the National Park Service: “When fully saturated and with mature plant cover, a thin extensive green roof can weigh about 13 pounds per square foot. A more typical extensive roof with 3 to 4 inches of growing medium weighs 17 to 18 pounds per square foot.” Some sources calculate higher weights. Then you need to consider load. For instance, if your green roof load was 20.5 lb./sq.ft. over the span of 8.5 ft., the roof would need 6 x 2″ timbers spaced 16″ apart for a strong enough platform (numbers from the sadly-out-of-print Small Green Roofs: Low-Tech Options for Greener Living (2011) by Nigel Dunnett et al.)
  3. Budget – Costs generally range from $13 to $45 per square foot, installed by a professional. If you build a smaller outdoor green roof on your own, the cost can be much less.
  4. Plants and Soil Depth – Succulents can be purchased by the flat, which is the most cost-effective way to start. Most will grow beautifully in 4-6 inches of growing medium.

Extensive Green Roof Plants

Colorful sempervivums and sedums add color and interest to a small, decorative green roof.

Hardy, evergreen, low-growing succulents are the best for extensive green roofs. Choose those that spread and have different colors and textures that pop.

Tasteless Stonecrop (Image by Mountain Crest Gardens)

Coral Carpet Sedum (Sedum album ‘Coral Carpet’, USDA Hardiness Zones 6-9) – The white-flowered sedum reaches 4 inches high, spreads to 8 inches, and has greenish-red foliage that turns dark coral in winter.

Angelina Stonecrop (Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’, Zones 3-11) – The golden spruce-like foliage turns shades of orange in winter, and plants reach 3-6 inches and spread to 12 inches.

Histoni Sempervivum (Image by Mountain Crest Gardens)

Kelp Forest Stonecrop (Sedum ‘Kelp Forest’, Zones 4-9) – Soft mounds of sprucy leaves can reach 6 inches and spread to 18 inches.

Tasteless Stonecrop (Sedum sexangulare, Zones 5-8) – Is more tasteful than its name suggests. The fine, low-growing evergreen spreads quickly to form an attractive mat of fine foliage. Starry yellow flowers appear in late spring or early summer.

Rolling Hens-and-Chicks (Sempervivum globiferum ssp. allioniiZone 5-9) – Rolling Sempervivums create lots of offsets and spread. Electric green rosettes that develop red-flushed tips in winter make this variety extra pretty.

Histoni Rolling Hens-and-Chicks (Sempervivum globiferum ssp. hirtum ‘Histoni’, Zone 5-9) – Bright green rosettes tipped in cherry red give this rolling hens-and-chicks bright color that deepen in the winter.

 

 

How Do I Care For My Avocado Pit Tree?

“I hung an avocado pit in a cup of water, and it grew roots, and now has a crazy height of like 3-4 feet. I’ve read that I can keep them in a large pot outside, and they won’t outgrow it. Do you agree, and again, what should I use as dirt? Will an avocado tree in a planter actually produce avocados? Be kind since that would be a lot of dirt for a big planter!” Question from Joseph

Answer: Congratulations! Avocado trees can make nice house or patio plants if you have space. You have already discovered that they grow quickly, so planting yours in a large container with drainage is recommended–18 inches is a good starting size. Good potting soil for the job is Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix, which is OMRI Listed for organic gardening. Indoor trees require lots of sunlight to grow well. Feed yours with a fertilizer formulated for avocados, and water evenly from spring to fall. Allow the pot to become somewhat dry before each watering. In winter, water a little less as growth slows. To keep your tree at a manageable size, prune off extra- long branches in spring.

In general, you need more than one avocado tree for cross-pollination. So, even if your tree blooms as it matures, it will likely not fruit, but if you start another avocado tree, you could get lucky.

Take your tree outdoors in a partially sunny spot in summer to encourage vigorous, even growth. Just be sure to clean it before bringing it back inside for winter, if you live in a cold-winter zone (click here to learn how to clean your plants before bringing them indoors for winter).

I hope that these tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do I Care for Creeping Charlie (Pilea nummulariifolia)?

How Do I Care for Creeping Charlie (Pilea nummulariifolia)?

“I recently purchased this Creeping Charlie for indoors, and again, received not so great information (let it dry fully before adding water, etc.). It was fine one morning (there had been some brown leaves, which I was told was because I was overwatering it), but when I got home, it looked like this (image below). Water brought it back somewhat. Now only two of the groups of leaves you can see above remain. I am assuming that putting it in a larger pot will help keep more consistency in the moisture, but need to know what of your products should I use (and if possible, again, recommendations for pot size, methods, etc.). It gets mostly filtered sunlight here, with a few minutes a day of direct sunlight.” Question from Joseph

Answer: Creeping Charlie (Pilea nummulariifolia) is a tropical groundcover native to the Caribbean and areas of South America that grows beautifully as a trailing house plant. Yours needs a new home and a little care to bring it back to glory, but it is not beyond hope. It is quite easy to grow once you know what it needs.

Creeping Charlie Care

Choose a larger well-drained pot with holes at the bottom and a saucer to catch water. A 6-8” pot would suffice. Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix would be perfect for its needs. Creeping Charlie (Pilea nummulariifolia) likes even moisture, but allow it to dry out somewhat between watering, and water it less in winter–maybe once a week or so. Give it bright, indirect light, and feed it lightly with a slow-release fertilizer formulated for house plants. When it outgrows its pot, repot in spring. Like most tropicals, it likes some ambient humidity, so avoid planting it near vents or fans where it will be subjected to dry air.

Consider bringing it outdoors in summer to encourage more vigorous growth. Just be sure to clean it before bringing it inside for winter (click here to learn how to clean your plants before bringing them indoors for winter).

I hope that these tips help!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do I Care for My Hoya Carnosa?

How do I care for my Hoya carnosa?

“I have a plant that I only recently found out was a Hoya carnosa (according to an online forum). Long story short, I got it from a job clearing out a house. I thought it was a plastic plant, and left it for weeks. Finally, it started to die, and my lightning-fast mind realized it was real. I put it in a window, and as you can see it took off. Then something happened, and it got sick and the leaves turned yellow and started to die. I still have no clue what caused it. It was getting a little less sun where it was than the previous picture, but the problem seemed to come from something else.

Finally, all that was left was one small thread of green leaves, connected to the dirt by a thin, brown, spindly branch, near dead. I decided to cut it off and place it in water. Apparently whatever was wrong with the rest of the plant wasn’t wrong with this section (??), as it grew roots in a bottle like crazy, and has now formed a strong set of leaves:

It has sat this way for years, as I was afraid to do anything to it since it seemed strong the way it was. I tried asking a few garden places, but they ignored me. I asked on an online forum, and beyond identification, I received conflicting answers (keep it in water, move it to dirt, etc.)

I believe I should move it to dirt, but need to know what to use from your options, and if possible, recommendations on how to do so. It had such a “strong will” to survive. I’d hate to kill it by doing something wrong. That would be devastating.” Question from Joseph

From left to right. Happy hoya, yellowing hoya, water-grown hoya.

Answer: That is quite a story. I think that your plant was initially getting too much water. Your porcelainflower or wax plant (Hoya carnosa) certainly has a strong will to live, but it should not be growing in a cup of water. It is a miracle that it has survived. Tropical succulents like this native of East Asia and Australia require very different growing conditions. Here’s what it needs to grow beautifully.

Hoya carnosa Care

As you have discovered, Hoya can be picky. Like most succulents, they really dislike regular water in the winter months and excess water at any time usually makes them unhappy. Warmth and humidity are always welcome.

Ditch the cup of water, and plant your Hoya in a well-drained pot filled with fast-draining potting soil, such as Black Gold Cactus Mix. An 8-10” pot would be a good choice. Give it even irrigation from spring to fall and very little water during the winter months (once-weekly water at most). (Click here to learn more about how to water house plants.)

Place it in a spot with bright, indirect light with some direct sunshine. It grows best in temperatures between 60–85 °F (16–29 °C). Once planted, do not replant until it has completely outgrown its pot. Porcelainflowers resent transplanting. Once it begins to set buds, do not disturb the plant as this can result in bud drop. After flowering, refrain from removing the spent flower heads. Essentially, disturb your Hoya as little as possible, and let it be its happy self. Keep it fertilized with a slow-release fertilizer (follow manufacturer’s directions).

I hope that these tips help. Keep me posted on its progress. I am curious to hear how it responds to its new home.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

How to Grow Your Own Blueberries

Everyone who loves to grow their own food should grow their own blueberries. Blueberries are ideal for edible landscaping. They grow well in-ground or in containers. They’re bushy, attractive, and their leaves turn brilliant shades of orange, purple, and red in fall. Before adding them to your yard or garden, it’s good to know what types are available. You will be glad that you learned how to grow your own blueberries.

Blueberry Varieties Listed

Highbush Blueberries: ‘Blue Ray’ has extra-large-fruits early to mid-season, ‘Duke’ is high-yielding with upright shrubs, and ‘Elliott’ is a good late-producer.
Rabbiteye Blueberries: ‘Tifblue’ has large berries midseason and ‘Brightwell’ produces large clusters early to midseason.
Southern Highbush Blueberries: large-fruited ‘Cape Fear’, robust ‘Sharpblue’, and upright ‘Legacy’, which has very large, tasty fruits.
Designer Blueberries: The boxwood-like Blueberry Glaze® and cute, round Jellybean® have delicious fruit, tidy habits, and bright fall color (from Bushel & Berry).

Click Here for the Step-by-Step pdf About How to Grow Your Own Blueberries

DIY Succulent Fairy Garden

Create an easy fairy garden filled with tender succulents that will look great through summer and winter. We used a bowl-shaped planter filled with Black Gold Cactus Mix and lots of beautiful succulents from Mountain Crest Gardens. Product links are below.

Materials

Black Gold Cactus Mix
Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix
Succulents
Bowl-shaped container
Fairy figurines
Decorative stones and mosses

Mountain Crest Gardens Succulent Plant List

Aloe ‘Blue Elf’
Crassula mesembryanthemoides
Crassula perforata ‘Variegata’
Haworthia retusa ‘Fouchei’
Mammillaria crinita ‘Duwei’
Mammillaria gracilis ‘Fragilis’
Sedeveria ‘Jet Beads’