Plants are the lens Jessie views the world through because they’re all-sustaining. (“They feed, clothe, house and heal us. They produce the air we breathe and even make us smell pretty.”) She’s a garden writer and photographer with degrees in both horticulture and plant biology from Purdue and Michigan State Universities. Her degrees were bolstered by internships at Longwood Gardens and the American Horticultural Society. She has since worked for many horticultural institutions and companies and now manages communications for Sun Gro Horticulture, the parent company of Black Gold. Her joy is sharing all things green and lovely with her two daughters.
“Can I use soils with controlled-release fertilizer for organically grown vegetables in pots? Are there any chemicals that wouldn’t be appropriate for organic gardening? Thank you!” Question from Jenny of Chatham, Massachusetts
Answer: Some of our soils contain slow-release fertilizers, and all of our products are natural & organic, including our soils with slow-release fertilizer, even though some lack the OMRI Listed seal. The OMRI Listed seal lets gardeners know that a product has been formally reviewed and approved for organic growing. You can also choose any one of our many OMRI Listed natural & organic potting mixes and add OMRI Listed fertilizer formulated for vegetable growing. Our new Black Gold Flower & Vegetable Soil would be perfect for your needs. I hope that this helps!
Miniature weeping pussywillows can be grown in pots or gardens and stay quite compact.
“I bought a Salix caprea ‘Pendula’ (or a miniature weeping pussywillow) on March 20th. I was wondering if the Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix would work to transplant the tree in? I am repotting it into a larger container. I am also wondering how large of a container I may need. Thank you!” Question from Sloan of Knoxville, Tennesee
Answer: The maximum size that your miniature willow (Salix caprea ‘Pendula’) should reach is 6 feet, though they have been known to get larger. The container you choose is just as important as the potting mix you supply to the tree.
Planting Miniature Weeping Pussywillows
Willows are moisture-loving trees that develop extensive root systems, so you must choose a large, strong container if you want a happy, potted specimen. Choose a container that is at least DIA 34″ H 29″ (or deeper), weather-proof, and fitted with drainage holes at the bottom. The pot should have a bottom saucer to catch water. The right pot may be costly, but it will provide a good, longterm home for your tree.
Planting in a plain potting mix would be a mistake. Potting mix breaks down over time, so it needs to be replenished every few years or so. Instead, select a soil mixture with more permanence. Mix natural topsoil with organic components, such as Black Gold Garden Compost Blend, and water-holding Black Gold Natural & Organic Ultra Coir, which are both OMRI Listed for organic gardening. A good combination would be one part topsoil to one part compost and one part coir potting mix. Be sure to combine the ingredients evenly. If you can skim off topsoil from your own yard, that would be most cost-effective.
Willows require regular water to survive in containers, so you may want to install drip irrigation to help keep the container moist on hot summer days.
Protective screen will stop birds from eating the garden seeds.
“How do I stop birds from eating the garden seeds? We have 16 raised beds in our community garden, and we are trying to use 1-2 of them to grow from seeds only. Our problem is that birds keep picking at the seeds almost as soon as we sow the seeds. Do you have any suggestions for covering the beds or any other method to keep the birds away? We are sowing bush and pole beans, peas, radish, and squash seeds, among others.” Question from Jenifer of St. Petersburg, Florida
Answer: Birds not only consume certain vegetable seeds, but some, like starlings, also like to snip back tender new seedlings. Some vegetables you list must be directly sown in the ground, but others are better started in pots and planted as plants, which can save some headaches.
Stop Birds From Eating the Garden Seeds
Cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, squash, and zucchini fare better if they are started in 4-inch pots and then planted after they have put forth several sets of leaves. They are quick to germinate and grow fast, so it is a trouble-free effort. Just be sure to place the seeded pots in a sunny spot protected from birds and keep the soil moist. Other vegetables, like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, kale, and cabbages, grow best if they are started indoors and planted as strong plant starts. (Please click here to learn how to grow tomatoes from seed, and please click here for our favorite lettuces and how to grow them.) Seeds that are best planted in the ground are another story.
Beans, beets, carrots, corn, peas, turnips, and radishes are just a few seeds that are best sown directly in fertile ground. There are a couple of ways to keep birds from eating your seeds. Large-seeded plants, like beans and peas, can be planted 1 to 2 inches down in the soil (Click here to watch a video about our favorite beans and how to grow them.) Beets, carrots, and radishes should be planted closer to the soil surface. I always cover my newly sown seeds with a layer of Black Gold Garden Compost Blend to encourage faster germination. Here are steps to keep marauding birds from eating the garden seeds you sow.
Cover the raised beds with floating row covers or insect (and bird) barriers until they have germinated. Sheer row covers allow sunlight through but keep birds and pests from reaching the beds. Just be sure the seeded rows are well covered until seedlings germinate and really take off. In this scenario, it may pay to lay down drip hose along the rows, so you don’t have to worry about watering from above. I prefer row barriers over bird netting because they are more effective, and birds cannot get trapped in the fabric.
Bird deterrents come in all forms and Bird B Gone sells loads of products to scare birds away, from flashing stakes to scare balloons and hawk or owl decoys. Take your pick. These do work but not as consistently as well-placed barrier covers.
In my opinion, row covers are your best option, and you can use them year after year. One final note: peas and radishes are cool-season crops that grow poorly in heat. They are best grown in fall and winter in Florida.
I hope these solutions help. Have a great vegetable gardening season!
What are the best plants for cats? Plants that appeal to cats and help keep them content, such as catnip and cat grass, are two common cat plants, but there are several others to consider for the garden or home. Many of the best kitty plants can be grown indoors or out. Each is great for cats and cat health, and many will make your cat happier in your yard or home. Please watch to discover our list of the best plants for cats.
“I have paid twice, and can’t get my local university extension to perform a soil test and return my results. Is there a simple way I can determine the most common concerns like PH, potassium, phosphorus and such?” Question from Douglas of Greer, South Carolina
Answer: Well, that’s not right. Extension service soil tests are the best. Try reaching out to the administrative staff in the Clemson University Horticulture department when they are available. I have found that the folks at Land Grant Universities, such as Clemson University, are very friendly and helpful. They will certainly help you get what you paid for or be reimbursed. See if you can’t get through to someone, even though the university is not currently open. The website lists some numbers and email addresses.
Unless you’re a professional grower, you should not have to test your soil more than once. A gardener can expect some changes in nutrients and organic matter, especially in vegetable gardens, but pH should not really change much unless you’re actively adding liming or acidifying products to adjust an extreme soil pH. There are home soil testing kits that work moderately well, such as the Rapitest Premium Soil Test Kit, but these won’t be as accurate as soil tests from an extension service.
Soil tests are most essential when garden plants show significant signs of nutrient deficiency. If they do not, simply feed your plants regularly, and add quality organic matter to your soil yearly, such as Black Gold Garden Compost Blend and Peat Moss.
“What are good, compact perennials and shrubs to plant along a sunny walkway? I need help in selecting either a small shrub of some sort or a perennial of some sort to replace adjacent areas on my walkway. Now that I’ve had ash trees removed it will be mostly sunny. In the past, I’ve used baby tut grass, but sick of digging it up and having to replace.” Question from Donna of Mount Vernon, Iowa
Answer: There are lots of compact perennials and shrubs that will thrive along sunny walkways. If you favor tidy, clump-forming grasses, such as the tender Baby Tut, you have quite a few hardy perennial options for your area. Soft, flowing prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis), blue fescue (Festuca glauca), and compact ‘Little Bunny’ Pennisetum would all look great and work well. They are cute, tidy, and have winter interest, especially ‘Little Bunny’. If you prefer flowering perennials, try clump-forming flowering sedums (click here to many attractive options). These thrive in full sun and tolerate the extra heat that radiates from walkways in summer.
Perennials often require the least amount of upkeep, though there are quite a few compact, easy-care shrubs to consider. Dwarf Japanese holly (Ilex crenata), such as the 12-18 inch ‘Brass Buckle’, or inkberry holly (Ilex glabra), such as the 2-3 foot Gem Box are good evergreen choices. The very pretty 2-foot Double Play®Candy Corn®Spirea or Lil’ Ditty®WitherodViburnum are two of many very small flowering shrubs that would work well.
You might also get creative. It may look most appealing to add a mix of attractive, sun-loving perennials and low shrubs along your walkway for extra color, texture, and interest. Then add in a few everblooming heat and sun tolerant annuals to add an extra flash of color (click here for a great article on the subject.)
I hope that some of these options appeal to you. Have a great gardening season, and stay safe!
“I just got six starburst Clerodendrum cuttings, what is the best way to propagate the Clerodendrum From cuttings? I am currently using Distilled Water and Hydrogen Peroxide?”Question from Lizzy of Ocala, Florida
Answer: From what I have read, it is easy to root Clerodendrum from cuttings I’ve rooted hundreds of cuttings but never those of starburst (Clerodendrumquadriloculare), thankfully it appears to be an easy-to-root plant. From what I have read, there are two basic methods for propagating it from cuttings. Regardless of the method, always start with fresh tip-cuttings that are approximately 12-inches long. Tip cuttings are taken from the youngest, freshest new growth.
It sounds like you are doing the right thing because these cuttings can root well in water. I would choose fresh spring water over distilled water, which lacks electrolytes. The addition of a couple of drops of hydrogen peroxide helps to keep bacteria and fungi from invading. Once your cuttings begin to establish roots, pot them up in quality soil, such as Black Gold Garden Soil, which has added fertilizer to feed plants for up to 6 months.
Another method is to simply dip the fresh tip cuttings in rooting hormone, stick them in pots of quality mix, and keep it moist until the cuttings root. Rooting can take several weeks.
In-ground starburst plants also naturally sucker and layer. The suckers or rooted stems can be dug up and replanted as well.
How do I stop my tomatoes from cracking? There are several ways to end this problem.
“Stop my tomatoes from cracking! Last year even though the weather was optimal with sun and rain my cherry tomatoes continued to split as they grew and most were not edible as the bugs got into them as soon as they split. Is there a way to stop them from splitting like that?” Question from Sylvia of Belle Plaine, Minnesota
Answer: There are several things that you can do. Let me start by explaining what causes tomato splitting. Splitting occurs when a tomato is ripe and full of natural sugars and then it rains significantly. Tomato plants take up water fast, and due to a natural process called osmosis, the water is attracted to the plant parts with the most sugar–ripe fruits. So essentially, those sugary tomatoes fill up with too much water too fast and split. Here are the three best solutions to keep this from happening.
Ways to Stop My Tomatoes from Cracking
1. Choose crack-resistant tomato varieties. Some tomatoes either naturally resist cracking or were bred to be crack-resistant. The sweet cherry tomatoes ‘Ladybug‘ and ‘Jasper‘ are just two of many that are reliably crack resistant. You may see a crack here and there, but they are infrequent when compared to average cherries. ‘Baby Cakes’ salad tomato is tasty and both crack- and disease-resistant. And ‘Big Rainbow’ is a beautiful heirloom with great taste and crack resistance. And, if you like delicious orange slicers, ‘Chef’s Choice Orange‘ cannot be beaten for flavor and crack resistance. These are just a few of many options.
3. Pick tomatoes just before they are fully ripe. If you pick tomatoes just before they are fully ripe and allow them to ripen in a bag or on a windowsill, you can avoid the cracking problem. Slightly underripe tomatoes lack the full-sugar load that causes cracking.
For further tips on growing beautiful tomatoes, I recommend you watch our video about growing tomatoes from seed to harvest below.
