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Author: Mike Darcy

Mike lives and gardens in a suburb of Portland, Oregon where he has resided since 1969. He grew in up Tucson, Arizona where he worked at a small retail nursery during his high school and college years. He received his formal education at the University of Arizona where he was awarded a Bachelor of Science Degree in Horticulture, and though he values his formal education, he values his field-experience more. It is hard to beat the ‘hands on’ experience of actually gardening, visiting gardens, and sharing information with other gardeners. Mike has been involved with gardening communications throughout his adult life. In addition to garden writing, he has done television gardening shows in Portland, and for over 30 years he hosted a Saturday radio talk show in Portland. Now he writes, speaks, gardens and continues to share his love of gardening. To be connected to the gardening industry is a bonus in life for Mike. He has found gardeners to be among the friendliest and most caring, generous people. Consequently, many of his friends he has met through gardening.

Abutilons: the Best Parlor Maples

Abutilon pictum ‘Thompsonii’

Container gardening has always been a big part of my garden. and years ago what started out as a small grouping of pots on our deck, has continued to expand. Now I have about 150 containers throughout my garden.  The plant selection varies, and I am always removing something that did not perform as well as expected by adding something new.  However, even with all the changes, some things remain consistent and one of the constants is my fondness for Abutilon.  I cannot remember a time when I have not had at least one Abutilon in a pot.

The common name for abutilons is parlor maple or flowering maple because the leaf has a maple shape and the plants grow well indoors or outdoors. Abutilon can also be called Chinese lantern because of the pendulous, lantern shape of the flowers. Species are native throughout the subtropics and tropics worldwide and most are evergreen. Some of the prettiest are from the Americas.

The Best Abutilons

The sizes, shapes, and colors of Abutilon flowers are quite variable.  Some flowers are bell-shaped and face downward, while others are more open and face outward.  Their blooming season is long, and once they begin to flower, they will continue to do so throughout the summer and into winter, if you bring them indoors.  They come in shades of red, pink, yellow, white and/or orange. South American species are specially adapted for hummingbird and bat pollination.

Abutilon ‘Moonchimes’

Abutilon ‘Moonchimes’

The large, open, 2-inch flowers of Abutilon ‘Moonchimes’ are a delicate primrose yellow. The compact plants reach 2 to 3 feet and have dark green foliage. This is a lovely variety for summer containers.

Abutilon ‘Red Tiger’

Abutilon ‘Red Tiger’

My all-time favorite Abutilon is ‘Red Tiger’.  The flowers on ‘Red Tiger’ almost look like a stained glass piece.  The yellow flowers have scarlet-red veining, and the design is so intricate that it almost does not look real.  It is definitely a conversation piece in the home or summer garden.  If you have not grown Abutilon and are going to try one plant, this would be my choice!

Abutilon ‘Souvenir de Bonn’

The cultivar ‘Souvenir de Bonn’ has leaves that are edged in cream and pendulous, orange, bell-shaped flowers.  This is a reliably good bloomer, and with the contrasting leave color, it makes an outstanding container plant.  I suggest giving this one some protection from the hot summer sun.

Thompson’s Abutilon

The leaves of Abutilon pictum ‘Thompsonii’ are green flecked with yellow patterns. This is a vigorous species that originates from Brazil can reach 6 feet, where hardy. Its orange flowers veined with red are no less beautiful and stand out against its unique leaves. 

Trailing Abutilon

Trailing Abutilon (Abutilon megapotamicum)

Abutilon megapotamicum is sometimes referred to as ‘Trailing Abutilon’ because, with pruning, it can be kept almost prostrate.  The flowers are small but abundant and have large, red calyces and yellow petals.  If left to grow where hardy, without trimming, this Brazilian native can reach up to 8 feet and is in constant bloom.

Abutilon ‘Nabob’

Abutilon ‘Nabob’

The Abutilon cultivar ‘Nabob’ has always performed well in my garden. It is tall, reaching 8 to 10 feet, where hardy, with very dark red flowers that attract hummingbirds. The leaves are very dark green.

Growing Abutilon

Here in the Pacific Northwest, Abutilon is not reliably winter hardy, but if the winter is mild, the plants will often survive as perennials and new shoots will emerge from the ground in the spring. Most survive in USDA Hardiness Zones 8-10. I would not consider outdoor potted plants as winter hardy, so I treat them as annuals if they are not brought indoors. And, if they survive winter, then that is a pleasant spring surprise.

Abutilon is fast growing and new shoots will be in bloom by summer. My pots get varying degrees of sun and shade.  Some get full sun all day, and others receive full shade and some a mix of sun and shade.  I have found that Abutilons seem to be very adaptable and thrive in full or partial sun, but they do not want to be in full shade.  For pots in full sun, I plant them in Black Gold Waterhold Cocoblend Potting Mix because it is excellent for retaining moisture on a hot summer day.  For pots in a partially sunny location, I plant them in Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix.

Abutilons are very easy to start from cuttings and that is an easy way to carry over plants from year to year.  Take new tip cuttings, dip them in rooting hormone, place them in a moist potting mix, and they will root in no time. Pot them up and keep them indoors in bright, indirect light to keep them happy while they winter over. Whether in indoor containers or in the ground, abutilons make superb blooming plants.

 

 

 

 

Captivating Cape Primroses for Indoor Color

After the holiday season is over and the poinsettias have been discarded, the home can seem to be rather bleak with no color from blooming plants. Having indoor color to brighten some of the dark and gloomy days we get in the winter months can give our spirits a boost while we wait for spring. In the time between now and the arrival of spring, a good way to fill the flower void is with the easy-to-grow, blooming house plant, Cape primrose (Streptocarpus spp.).

Cape Primrose Origins

The common name, Cape primrose, refers to the plant’s usually long-tubed, primrose-like flowers with South African Cape origins. But, it is not a true primrose. Instead, it’s in a plant group called gesneriads,  in the family Gesneriaceae, and a relative of African violets. Cape primroses have an advantage over African violets in that they produce multiple large flowers on longer stems. Like African violets, they can bloom over a long period of time and come in colorful shades of blue, purple, pink, yellow, white and bicolors. They also have contrasting veins and/or throat colors for added appeal. There are many cultivated varieties, and many have ruffled edges for extra flounce.

Growing Cape Primroses

Many varieties of Streptocarpus have ruffled edges for extra flounce.

If you can grow African violets, then you can grow Cape primroses.  Since both plants are related, and grow in comparable environments in the wild, they require similar growing conditions. The correct potting mix is essential for good growth, and Black Gold African Violet Mix is ideal for providing a good balance between porosity and organic matter. (Click here for a full video about how to plant African violets and close relatives, like Cape primroses.)

The location in the house is critical for Cape primroses to thrive and continue to bloom. Keep them in an area with bright, indirect light. They are sensitive to hot, direct sun but will not bloom without adequate light. They also require high humidity, so keep them away from a heating vent or outside door so as to minimize drafts. One humidifying method to try is placing the pots on a tray of crushed rock or small pebbles covered with water. This will keep the air around the plants humid while not over saturating the pots.

Most house plants either die or decline because of too much water, and Cape primrose is no exception. They should be watered thoroughly from the bottom, and the soil should be allowed to slightly dry out at the top before watering again. With too much water or lack of adequate drainage, the leaves will wilt and the base of the plant may rot.

Most Cape primrose hybrids also have large leaves, which tend to tear easily. If this happens, just cut off the damaged part. These are quite forgiving plants.

Most garden centers carry specific African violet fertilizers, which are also best for Cape primroses. Follow label directions and fertilize as needed.

Some Favorite Cape Primroses

False African Violet (Streptocarpus saxorum): Many small lilac-blue flowers are produced from densely foliated plants with small, succulent leaves.

Streptocarpus ‘Party Pinafore’: This variety boasts large, lilac-purple flowers with white lower lips striped with purple.

Streptocarpus ‘Bethan’: This cultivar has loads of medium-sized,  pale violet-blue flowers with strong venation and white throats.

Streptocarpus ‘Seren’: Flowers of palest ivory with violet picotee edges and yellow throats bloom in profusion on these long-leaved plants.

Check out your local garden center that has a good selection of house plants, and you will most likely see Streptocarpus in bloom in an array of colors.  There are even dwarf and trailing varieties. When it is too early to plant actual primroses (Primula spp.) outdoors, Cape primroses can be a good indoor substitute.  And, when the weather warms, you can even place pots outdoors in brightly shaded spots for a bit of porch or patio color.

Dwarf Conifers for All-Season Beauty

A dwarf white spruce shows off its winter cones.

Dwarf conifers are often overlooked as both landscape or container plants.  In recent years there have been many new cultivars of dwarf conifers that have been developed to be super compact and slow growing. These make superb garden specimens that will shine all year long, especially in the winter months.

Dwarf Conifers Defined

There are lots of different dwarf conifers available at nurseries these days.

There has been some confusion, for both the retailer and the consumer, regarding the true definition of a dwarf conifer.  To help eliminate this confusion, and to establish some parameters for growth that a homeowner would understand, the American Conifer Society has established two size categories, dwarf and intermediate.  Dwarf conifers grow very slowly to a final height of 1-2 feet in ten years.  Intermediate conifers, while not technically a dwarf,  are compact and can easily be worked into landscapes or containers without becoming large trees.  An intermediate conifer will grow up to 12 inches annually and can be selectively pruned to maintain a smaller shape.

Dwarf Conifer Care

In my own garden, I have many containers with dwarf conifers, and they have become an important part of my patio display.  They provide an evergreen appearance throughout the year and tolerate our summer and winter conditions.  Most grow best in full to partial sun, however, read plant tag information regarding sun/shade requirements whenever you purchase a new conifer, so it Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix.  I have found that it provides the fertility and good drainage that most conifers need.

Favorite Dwarf Conifers

It is always difficult to make a list of favorite plants, but I have carefully chosen select dwarf conifers for my garden. Here are some of my garden favorites along with a few other garden-worthy selections.

Korean Fir

Korean fir (Abies koreana ‘Horstmann’s Silberlocke’) is one of my favorite dwarf conifers. (Image by Mike Darcy)

Two of my favorites are Korean firs (Abies koreana).  The first is the conical golden Korean fir (Abies koreana ‘Aurea’), which has needles that are lemon yellow and quite attractive when in a bed with a background of green foliage. This intermediate conifer grows very slowy but can reach a final height of 8 feet or more. The second is the silver dwarf Korean fir (Abies koreana ‘Horstmann’s Silberlocke’), which has needles that slightly curl around the stem to reveal blue-green needles with silver-white undersides.  It is also an intermediate conifer but is easily kept small by pruning. I have to admit that the ‘Horstmann’s Silberlocke’ is my favorite. It gets many comments from garden visitors.

Japanese Plum Yew

Spreading Japanese plum yew is one of the best compact conifers for low coverage in beds. (Image by Jessie Keith)

A conifer with beautiful upturned needles and a low, spreading habit is spreading Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia ‘Prostrata’). It creates perfect evergreen cover where a low grower is needed, and it performs best when given afternoon shade. Another choice variety is ‘Korean Gold’, with its beautiful lemon-yellow needles with dark green undersides. It is a real attention getter in the garden

Hinoki Cypress

Dwarf Hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Nana Gracilis’) always looks good in a sunny garden spot.

Dwarf Hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Nana Gracilis’) has dense, lush, green fans of foliage and a very compact habit (3-6 feet when mature). Another cultivar that provides an interesting contrast of colors is the white tipped dwarf Hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Snowkist’).  This is considered a dwarf conifer, and its outstanding feature is dark green foliage with creamy white variegated tips.  It has a globe shape and will not get much larger than 3-4 feet.

Hemlocks

For something with a weeping shape, consider weeping western hemlock (Tsuga heterophylia ‘Thorsen’s Weeping’).  It is very small and slow growing; in only 10 years it will reach just 1 foot.  It has a weeping shape and can be staked to form a fountain effect or left alone to weep over the side of a pot.

Spruces

The classic bird’s nest spruce (Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’) always remains low and tidy.

There are many compact spruces (Picea spp.) available that are perfect for containers and small spaces. The classic bird’s nest spruce (Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’) is a low grower that has a tidy nest-like habit. It grows very slowly, reaching 2-feet high and several feet wide in 10 years. The bushy dwarf Norway spruce (Picea abies ‘Pumila’) is comparable but is rounded and does not spread. Another to try is the conical Daisy’s White spruce (Picea glauca ‘Daisy’s White’), a gem with creamy white new growth that darkens to blue-green by summer. It is very slow growing and gets to just 3 feet after 10 years.

Due to smaller lot sizes and with more people living in apartments and condominiums, many garden centers have increased their selection of dwarf conifers.  Check with your local garden center and you may be very surprised at the choices available.

The Best Fragrant House Plants

Orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata)

In the Pacific Northwest, where our winter days are often rainy and overcast, (some would say dark and gloomy), it is a bonus to have an indoor environment where plants grow and thrive. If the plants also have fragrant blooms, it’s even nicer.

The limiting factor for most of these floriferous house plants is the lack of adequate light, so if a spot in a sun room or near a bay window is available that would be ideal. I also refer to these plants as being double-duty, because they can be outdoors in the summer and then brought indoors for the winter. Most of the bloomers on this list have white or ivory flowers that are naturally moth pollinated and exude their most powerful fragrance at night.

Gardenia

Gardenia

There is a wide assortment of gardenias (Gardenia spp.) to chose from, with some being quite winter hardy here in the western part of the Pacific Northwest. I have had Gardenia ‘Frostproof’ (Gardenia jasminoides Frostproof’) for several years, and it blooms outside for most of the summer. While the flowers are small, they have the typical gardenia fragrance. I leave my plant outdoors, but it could also be a winter blooming house plant. Gardenia ‘Mystery’ (Gardenia jasminoides ‘Mystery’) is a double-flowered variety used by florists, and if given an indoor location with lots of light, it will make a very nice house plant.

Dwarf Citrus

Citrus blossoms are wonderfully fragrant and you can’t beat the fruits!

Dwarf citrus (Citrus spp.) are excellent choices for double-duty plants. Meyer lemon is probably the most widely planted, and if placed in a container of adequate size, it can live for many years. Citrus like heat and can be outside in full sun during the summer and then brought indoors for the winter. Meyer lemon will bloom with fragrant white flowers throughout the year and will also bear lemons at a fairly young age. If the plant has been outdoors all summer, spray it thoroughly with water before bringing it inside to wash off any insects that might be present. Be sure to bring the plant indoors before a frost. (Click here to learn more about growing indoor citrus.)

Pink Jasmine

Pink jasmine, (Jasminum polyanthum)

Another house plant is pink jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum). The vine produces masses of fragrant, star-like flowers that are reddish-pink on the outside, white on the inside, and intensely fragrant. This is a fairly reliable bloomer that flowers through most of the late winter and early spring. It is a fast grower and needs a small trellis for its twining stems to climb. Trim it regularly to keep it check.

Orange Jasmine

Orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata) is a compact plant with waxy white flowers that have an orange-blossom fragrance. Young plants start blooming early on. This is an easy-to-grow house plant that blooms reliably.

Madagascar Jasmine

Madagascar jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda, image by Scott Z.)

Often used in wedding bouquets because of its intensely fragrant white flowers, Madagascar jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda) is best grown as a house plant in cold climates. The vigorous evergreen vine needs something to twine up and likes humidity, so mist it on a regular basis. If given enough light, it will bloom indoors during the winter. The fragrance of the flowers will easily fill a room.

Pinwheelflower

Gardenia Crape Jasmine (Gardenia jasminoides), white flowers with green leaves

Like many of the other house plants listed, pinwheelflower (Tabernaemontana divaricata) has fragrant white flowers and evergreen foliage. The tender shrub is native to Southeast Asia but grows very well indoors in pots. It blooms the most in spring but may produce additional flowers throughout the year. The waxy white, blooms are most fragrant at night.

Over watering and poor drainage are common reasons for these house plants to diminish. Planting them in a premium potting mix that drains well will help ensure growing success. My mix of choice is premium Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix. It has ingredients to help with drainage in addition to added fertilizer that lasts for up to six months. Start a regular fertilization regime several months after potting.

In addition to giving them plenty of light, keep your plants away from dry heat sources, such as heating vents or a fireplace, as this will stress the plants and their foliage. Once your fragrant house plants start to bloom, you will be glad you planted them. Their flowers and scent brighten dreary winter days, making the indoors just a little more enjoyable.

Growing Hardy Chrysanthemums

‘Hillside Sheffield Pink’ is a classic hardy mum with extra fragrant flowers. (Image by Jessie Keith)

As I recently drove into my local garden center, I noticed the marquee sign along the highway read: FALL MUMS, PLANT NOW! Walk into almost any garden center in fall, and there will be a display of potted chrysanthemums. Most often they are purchased for a quick spot of “annual” color in the garden or front door containers, but some mums are true hardy perennials.

About Chrysanthemums

Mums were first cultivated in China as far back as the 15th century BC and in Japan as early as the 8th century. The cultivated species, Chrysanthemum × morifolium, originates from the Asian  Chrysanthemum indicum crossed with several other putative species. Along with the plum, orchid, and bamboo, the chrysanthemum is known in China as one of the “four gentleman of flowers”.  With their late-blooming season and long-lasting flowers, chrysanthemums are like mature gentleman scholars whose wisdom and integrity grows with each year.

In general, chrysanthemum blooms come in 13 shape classes (daisy, pompon, spider, decorative…read about all classes here) and many colors (white, red, yellow, orange, purple, etc.). Hardy mums tend to have single or decorative double flowers and often spread, forming dense clumps over time. Their hardiness range tends to be within USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9, but some can take even colder winters.

Five Hardy Chrysanthemums

Mums in the Mammoth™ series were bred in Minnesota and are very hardy.

Some of the finest hardy chrysanthemums include the following:

Gold and Silver Chrysanthemum (Ajania pacifica (formerly Chrysanthemum pacifica)): This is a reliable hardy perennial mum (Zones 5-9) that is easy to grow and does not require high maintenance.  It spreads to form a tidy one-foot blanket of dark green leaves rimmed in white, which makes it an attractive plant even when not in flower.  Clusters of yellow, button-shaped flowers appear in fall.

Chrysanthemum ‘Gethsemane Moonlight’: This hardy mum (Zones 5-9) bears lots of semi-double flowers of primrose yellow starting in October.

Chrysanthemum ‘Hillside Sheffield Pink’: Numerous daisies of apricot-pink cover this classic hardy mum (Zones 5-9) in late October. The flowers are extra fragrant and attract lots of late-season pollinators.

Chrysanthemum Mammoth™ Series: Mums in the Mammoth™ series were bred in Minnesota and are remarkably hardy (Zones 3-9). They come in lots of colors and shapes.

Chrysanthemum ‘Matchsticks’: The lovely flowers of ‘Matchsticks’ are red and gold and have spoon-shaped petals. They are also very hardy (Zones 5-9).

Specialty Chrysanthemums

Specialty chrysanthemums, like this spider mum, are very tender and won’t survive winter.

Large, choice, specialty mums in unusual flower classes are almost always tender and bred for the cut-flower industry or exhibition (think of the ‘football’ mum). I visited with a garden center manager, and she said specialty mums are a very small niche market and won’t survive winter cold. Moreover, they are high maintenance and must be groomed all summer for their pricey fall blooms. They even need be protected from the rain to keep the flowers from being ruined. If you are still ambitious and want to grow grand specialty types, check out the mail-order company King’s Mums in Sand Spring, Oklahoma.  Their quality and selection are excellent.

Cultivating Hardy Mums

‘Matchsticks’ is hardy and has specialty mum looks.

Winter-hardy garden mums can be planted in spring or fall. They must have excellent soil drainage and high organic matter.  I would suggest amending the soil with Black Gold Garden Soil at time of planting. If you plant in spring, be on the lookout for slugs, which will feed on the new growth as it emerges. (Sluggo is the organic pesticide option for managing garden slugs.)

In late spring, it always pays to trim back your mums by half. This will result in shorter, tidier plants with more flowers when fall-time arrives. After flowering, the plants can be cut back to the ground and then mulched with OMRI Listed Black Gold Garden Compost Blend for increased winter protection.

Chrysanthemum Displays

Gold and silver chrysanthemum is an unusual groundcover mum that will survive cold winters.

Not only are garden centers displaying fall mums, but they are also a focus at some botanical gardens. The Lan Su Chinese Garden in Portland, Oregon is one of these gardens.  In keeping with the importance of the chrysanthemum in China, the Lan Su Chinese Garden designates the month of November as ‘Mumvember’.  During this month, they have over 750 potted chrysanthemums on display throughout the garden. Longwood Gardens’ Chrysanthemum Festival is another display of national repute. Their famous 1000-bloom mum is a fantastic work of engineering and horticulture.

While you may find blooming garden mums at any month of the year at a florist or garden center, their natural bloom cycle is in the fall.  So, this is the best time to enjoy them. To learn more about Chrysanthemums, visit the National Chrysanthemum Society.

Fantastic Fall Anemones for the Garden

Here it is October in the Pacific Northwest, and cool moist weather is upon us after a hot and dry summer. The recent rains and cool temperatures are a welcome relief to many plants (as well as to myself).  Many summer annuals are still performing, and the hardy fuchsias and dahlias will continue to flower heavily up until frost. This is also the time when the fall-blooming anemones, such as Japanese anemones and other fall types, look their best.

Japanese Anemones

The Chinese Anemone hupehensis has single pink-, white-, or rose-colored flowers.

Fall-blooming anemones are sometimes overlooked and under planted.  While there are several different species, by far the most common and widely planted is the Japanese anemone (Anemone hupehensis var. japonica).  Despite its name, the “Japanese” anemone is not actually native to Japan, but it comes from China.  Wide cultivation in Japan led to the escape of this plant into the wild. The wild Chinese species Anemone hupehensis has tall, airy, single flowers of purple, purple-red, pink, or white, that may bloom from later summer to fall. Anemone hupehensis var. japonica differs in that its flowers are semi-double to double.

Chinese Anemones

Other Asian fall-blooming anemones include the Chinese windflower (Anemone tomentosa), which has white hairs on its leaf undersides and tall, five-petaled, white or pinkish flowers that bloom from late summer to fall. Another Chinese native is the grapeleaf anemone (Anemone vitifolia), which has grape-like green leaves and white or purplish flowers that bloom from late summer to fall. Many popular “Japanese” anemones are actually hybrids of Anemone hupehensis, A. vitifolia, and A. tomentosa, and commonly referred to as A. x hybrida variants.

Fall Anemone Varieties

The white-flowered ‘Honorine Jobert’ has large single blooms. (Image by Jessie Keith)

Here in the Pacific Northwest, the most common are white-flowering Japanese anemones, with the large-flowered ‘Honorine Jobert’ (A. x hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’) being the best. It usually comes into flower in late August or early September and continues into October.  Because of its late-blooming habit, it makes an excellent addition to the fall garden with the bright white flowers being a focal point in the evening  Over the years, it will form large clumps with its fibrous, spreading roots.  It is best grown in a spot that is protected from the hot midday summer sun, but if given too much shade, its stems will be floppy.

The large, rose-pink, double flowers of ‘Prinz Heinrich’ are really impressive! (Image by Jessie Keith)

For a semi-double white Japanese anemone, look for the cultivar ‘Whirlwind’ (A. x hybrida ‘Whirlwind’). Two more impressive doubles are the rose-pink ‘Pamina’ (Anemone hupehensis var. japonica ‘Pamina’) and larger-flowered rose-pink ‘Prinz Heinrich’ (A. hupehensis var. japonica ‘Prinz Heinrich’). All are available at more specialized garden centers, and their impressive flowers make them well worth growing. Another common variety is the single pink (A. x hybrida ‘Robustissima’), which can bloom into November. All of these plants spread laterally over time to create substantial clumps, so give them plenty of space.

Growing Fall Anemones

Anemones like humus-rich soil, and Black Gold Garden Compost Blend is an ideal medium to add at planting time or as a winter mulch.  Even though anemones like evenly moist soil, they also need good drainage, and compost provides moisture retention, aeration, and facilitates drainage.  After plants have finished flowering, cut them back to ground level and divide them, if necessary.

These fall-blooming beauties prefer full to partial sun and are very easy to grow in our Pacific Northwest climate, and once established, plants will continue to spread. I would not consider them invasive because they are easy to control.  If you see some plantings in your neighborhood, perhaps a neighbor would be willing to share.  It is hard to think of a more reliable fall-blooming perennial.

I always have a difficult time removing summer annuals that are still performing, but the appearance of fall perennials like anemones makes it easier.  They bring the season lots of color and beauty just before the garden offers its farewell.

Large single pink flowers grace ‘Robustissima’ fall-blooming anemone.

 

Beautyberry for Bountiful Fall Color

Branches laden with bright purple berry clusters can be a very pleasant surprise to those unaware of the virtues of beautyberry (Callicarpa spp.).  These berries  provide a bright spot of color, especially in the autumn garden when the color performance of many shrubs is over.

Beautyberry Origins

There are more than a dozen species of Callicarpa, however only a few are readily available to at plant nurseries.  Most often referred to as beautyberry, most species are native to China and other parts of Asia, but Callicarpa americana is a native of the southern and eastern United States. All grow and flower best in full to partial sun and prefer soil with average fertility and good drainage.

Beautyberry Varieties

The leaves of Bodinier’s beautyberry develop a burnished or yellow color before falling in autumn.

Here in the Pacific Northwest, the most widely planted variety is the Chinese Bodinier’s beautyberry (Callicarpa bodinieri var. giraldii  ‘Profusion’, USDA Hardiness Zone 6-8).  This is recommended because it is a heavy bearer of bright purple berries.  In the spring the new leaves are tinged with bronze as they first appear, and the branches become lined with clusters of tiny lavender flowers. In my garden, it tends to be a bit of a gangly grower, reaching up to 7 feet tall and almost as wide. Select pruning of the tallest, most overgrown branches will keep it in check.

I also have a  white Japanese beautyberry (Callicarpa japonica ‘Leucocarpa’, USDA Hardiness Zone 5-8), which has white flowers and berries and is a slightly smaller shrub (4-6 feet) than Bodinier’s beautyberry.  In the autumn, as the foliage of ‘Leucocarpa’ begins to turn yellow and brown, the clusters of white berries create quite a color contrast.

The spring flowers of beautyberry are pale lavender to pink.

There are new varieties Callicarpa that have been developed to offer colorful foliage and a compact growth habit.  Variegated Japanese beautyberry (C. japonica ‘Snow Storm’, USDA Hardiness Zone 6-8), is a good example with leaves that are white at the beginning of the season and then becoming mottled with green as they develop.  Unlike the gangly ‘Profusion’, ‘Snow Storm’ is a tidy, mounding shrub to 3 to 4 feet that is desirable for small gardens or containers.  It has pink flowers and purple berries.

The American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana, USDA Hardiness Zone 6-10) is a larger shrub (6-9 feet) with a more informal, long, arching, open branches and of looser bright purple berry clusters. Plant it in more informal landscape settings.

Beautyberry Lore

The leaves of American beautyberry naturally repel mosquitoes.

Sometimes I marvel at what we do for our plants and what our plants do for us. I find it fascinating to read folklore about plant attributes and then test the folklore in real life.  The American Beautyberry poses a good example of how lore can help today’s gardeners.

In the early part of the 20th century, farmers in northeastern Mississippi discovered that placing fresh crushed leaves of Callicarpa americana under the harness of draft animals, like horses and mules, helped keep biting insects away.  This practice became known throughout the region, and people began crushing leaves on their own skin to keep mosquitoes away. People stopped using American Beautyberry with the dawn of insect sprays, so this practice was almost forgotten until recently. Recent research found Mosquito Bite Deterrent chemicals were present in the leaves of these plants. In fact, they showed significant repellent activity against mosquitoes.  Maybe this could be called ‘folklore becomes reality’.

Two years ago I conducted my own experiment with a neighbor that is interested in botanicals for medicinal purposes. We both rubbed leaves of my Bodinier’s beautyberry on our arms to see if they would repel mosquitoes. Sorry to report that the mosquitoes landed on both of us, because I had not realized that the mosquito repelling properties were from C. americana and not my variety!

Visit your local garden center this fall season and check out their selection of berried Callicarpa.  By making your purchase now, you are assured of getting the berry color that you want!  With the long and hot dry summer we have had, be sure to amend the soil with Black Gold Garden Compost Blend before planting, and water thoroughly.    

A Vertical Vegetable Garden in the City

Salem, Oregon gardener Harry Olson has taken vertical gardening to new heights, (literally).  Harry’s home is on a small city lot and because of space constraints and shade issues from neighboring trees, Harry has, out of necessity, created a vertical garden.  This has challenged him to creatively experiment and find innovative ways to maintain a productive edible garden.  Many of his methods could easily be modified for gardeners with even less space (a sunny balcony, deck or patio).

Start with Good Soil

Harry starts with good soil, one of the most essential components for any garden. Quality soil is critical for good production, especially where space and light are limited. For edible gardening in small spaces, Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix is great for container growing and Black Gold Garden Compost Blend is a super amendment for in-ground gardening. Both products are OMRI Listed for organic gardening and will naturally boost productivity and yields.

Grow Vegetables Creatively

Tomatoes

A well-trained triple-grafted tomato is a big space saver!

Grafted tomatoes are a favorite of Harry’s because in one container it is possible to have three different varieties.  He uses a ‘triple graft’, and one that Harry successfully grew last year was a combination of ‘Sweetheart’ (red, heart-shaped, salad type), ‘Blush’ (golden-orange grape type), and ‘Virginia Sweet’ (red-gold beefsteak type) tomatoes.  Harry often extends an invitation to different garden clubs and societies to visit his garden, and he told me that this triple-grafted tomato was the most photographed plant in his garden.

Vining Vegetables

Harry’s metal-framed cucumber and squash trellis is space-saving and strong.

Cucumbers and squash can easily be grown vertically with good support.  These substantial vines climb by tendrils, so it is necessary to provide a strong trellis of metal or wood with a wire or string lattice for the tendrils climb.  Harry’s simple, compact structure was constructed from a single metal frame with a lattice of strong, taught strings. To further maximize space, he planted the base of the trellis with rosemary, basil, and other sun-loving herbs.

Vines can also be container-grown, if the container is large enough. Harry chose to grow is cantaloupe vertically in a large container fitted with a  trellis. To support the heavy fruit and save the vine from breakage, he used pantyhose trusses to hold the fruit. What a good solution!

Pantyhose trusses proved the best way to support trellised cantaloupe.

Harry also relies on pole beans, another easily grown vining crop, that are light and easy to trellis. These summer producers thrive in the heat and start to decline by fall.  For a fall crop, he plants vining peas in late summer.  They are easy to grow from seed, thrive in the cooler fall weather and often continue producing, even after the first light frost.

Vining nasturiums add color and edible flowers to Harry’s plot.

Vining edible flowers also have a place in Harry’s city plot. With adequate support, his vining nasturtiums will often reach six feet.  An advantage with nasturtiums is that they do not require full sun as compared to the other plants mentioned here.  Nasturtiums provide beautiful flowers and all parts of the plant can be eaten.  The leaves and stems will give salad a little ‘spice’ and the flowers make a beautiful edible garnish.

Fruit Trees

Columnar apple trees are easily grown in pots and can be placed along a sunny fence.

Even dwarf fruit trees can be grown in containers.  Harry chose columnar apples planted along his fence. These are a good choice because in the last few years columnar apples have become readily available in garden centers.  These trees have been developed to set fruit without having another tree for cross pollination, and the columnar structure produces short branches close to the single trunk to maximize space, airflow, and sun exposure.  Imagine having your own homegrown apples on your deck or patio!

Growing a vertical garden is probably much easier than one might imagine.  Even with the limited space of a balcony, deck or patio, it is possible to have fresh produce throughout the summer with some plants continuing to produce into the fall.  Do some experimenting and you might be pleasantly surprised with the results.

Five Delicious Lemon Scented Herbs

Low-growing variegated lemon thyme makes a lovely and tasty addition to herb or container gardens.

If I had to pick my favorite scent in the garden, it would be difficult to select just one, and it might depend on what scent I was smelling at the moment. There are many plants in my garden that have a pleasant scent I enjoy. Common Heliotrope comes to mind, with flowers that have a delicate scent somewhat like vanilla, but at the top of my list would be my lemon-scented herbs. I do not know exactly what it is, but there is something about the scent of lemon that is so refreshing that I never tire of it.

Of course a lemon tree can give us the true scent of lemon with their sweetly fragrant flowers, and aromatic foliage and fruit that give us the scent we know. Here in the Pacific Northwest, we cannot grow lemon trees unless we have a greenhouse, sun room, or a place to offer protection and adequate sunlight during the winter. So, the next best thing is to select plants that we can easily grow in our gardens that will give us the scent and flavor of lemon.

Lemon Verbena

Lemon verbena is actually a fast-growing tropical shrub grown as an annual herb.

One of my favorites would have to be lemon verbena, (Aloysia citrodora). Using the word ‘verbena’ can be confusing because many gardeners are familiar with the common garden verbena (Verbena x hybrida), which is widely planted as a summer annual. But, lemon verbena is a totally different plant.

Lemon verbena is usually grown as a summer annual, but this South American shrub is hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 10, so it will overwinter in protected locations, if the winter temperatures do not drop much below freezing. It can also be brought indoors as a houseplant. It loves the sun and is a fast grower that can often reach 6 feet in a season. If not pinched back regularly, it will become a gangly, sprawling plant. The leaves of lemon verbena are bright green, rough to the touch, and have one of the strongest lemon scents. Just touching a leaf or brushing against the plant will release the aroma. I have a container of lemon verbena on my deck every summer that I plant in Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix. The leaves are great for flavoring teas and iced drinks.

Lemon Grass

A lemon grass seedling will grow to a huge plant in just one season!

Tropical lemon grass, (Cymbopogon citratus), is a very easy grass to grow in the garden and forms a neat clump, like many other ornamental grasses. Add Black Gold Garden Compost at time of planting and pick a location that has full sun. This grass can even grow well in moist soils and also looks great planted in a pot with Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix. The fragrant, tender bulbs at the base of the clump are used in Asian cooking, especially Thai and Vietnamese dishes. It grows as an annual in cold-winter climates, but one small plant will become a large clump in just one season. Lemon grass is also the natural source of citronella oil, so it wards off mosquitoes. [Click here to learn more about growing lemon grass.]

Lemon Thyme

Last year in my garden, I planted the lemon thyme variety, Thymus x citriodorus ‘Lime’, in a large pot on a stand. I wanted the thyme to cascade over the side if the pot, and it performed just beautifully. It has a very strong lemon scent good for flavoring fish and fresh vegetables, and its lime-colored foliage contrasted nicely with the other plants in the pot. This pot was left outside last winter and the lemon thyme came through with no damage. Another pretty variety to try is Thymus x citriodorus ‘Variegata’, which has a lovely lemon flavor and pretty variegated leaves.

Lemon Basil

The leaves of lemon basil perfectly pair the flavor of basil and lemon.

Everyone loves the taste of basil, but the unique tang of lemon basil (Ocimum × africanum) adds a whole new flavor to summer foods. The tall, bushy basil performs very well in the summer heat and full sun of the herb garden. Add its leaves to refreshing drinks or any dish where basil would be welcome.

Lemon Balm

Lemon balm tends to spread and self-sow, so it is best to grow it in containers.

Another easy lemon-scented plant to grow is lemon balm (Melissa officinalis). This plant grows quickly and can reach 2 feet in height in a season. The leaves are heavily veined and have a strong scent of lemon. Lemon Balm can quickly spread in a garden, and self-sows, so it can become invasive if not pruned back and kept from going to seed. I would suggest planting it in a pot to keep it contained. It likes a rich potting soil, like Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix. The leaves are great for cold drinks on a hot summer day, or they can be dried to make lemony tea in winter.

The above mentioned plants are a small sampling of those available with a lemon scent, and it is not too late to plant them. Check out your local garden center and look in the ‘herb section’ for the best assortment.

Growing Miniature Roses

Pots of miniature roses brighten up a nursery display.

Miniature roses are perfect for small-space gardeners that love the look of classic roses. They come in all colors, and newer varieties are disease resistant and bloom continuously through summer.

There is a cloud of mystery concerning the exact origin of the miniature rose. It is most likely a descendant of the Chinese rose, Rosa chinensis var. minima, and for some unknown reason it made its way to the island of Mauritius in the Indian Ocean where it was found growing in a botanical garden. An Englishman who found it growing there brought it back to England in ~1815. It then seemed to disappear until an officer in the Swiss Reserves found it growing in a window box in Switzerland in the 1920’s. Rose hybridizers quickly recognized the marketing potential of the miniature rose.

What is a Miniature Rose?

Miniature roses are everblooming and make fine container specimens.

Initially, to be classified as a miniature rose it had to fit under a teacup. However rose growers realized that to be a recognized class in rose shows, a better definition was needed. Today for a rose to be classified as a miniature, the leaves, stems, thorns and flowers must be miniature versions of a full-sized rose plant.

According to the American Rose Society, miniature roses now can range from just inches to 2 feet. A newer miniature class, mini-flora roses, are like shrubby floribunda roses in miniature and can reach up to 3 feet. The flowers can range from less than 1 inch to several inches across with the colors being the same wide array as any regular garden rose.

Good Miniature Rose Varieties

Image by Weeks Roses

All a’Twitter™ (2012 introduction, 18-24 inches)

This bushy miniature produces loads of orange blooms on plants with glossy dark green leaves. This is a very disease-resistant selection from Weeks Roses that flowers best in milder weather but will also tolerate warmer growing conditions. Its delicate double flowers open as they mature to show a golden plume of stamens.

 

Be My Baby™ (2011 introduction, 20-28 inches)

Image by Weeks Roses

Marked by excellent diseases resistance, this bushy miniature from Weeks Roses and produces loads of deep pink blooms all summer.

This one is a high performer that will bloom well all season up until frost. It’s perfect little roses look very much like those of a hybrid tea rose, but in miniature.

 

Busy Bee™ (1994 introduction, 18- 22 inches)

Image by Greenheart Farms

This cold-hardy, disease-resistant miniature produces lots of coral pink and peach blooms on bushy plants. Offered by Jackson & Perkins, Busy Bee™ is also a vigorous bloomer that will go all season!

This exceptional beauty was originally bred by F. Harmon Saville of Greenheart Farms.

 

Red Sunblaze® (1989 introduction, 12-15 inches)

Image by Meilland Int.

Developed by Meilland International, Red Sunblaze® is a miniature red rose with attractive foliage and frilly deep red blooms that look great in containers. This is a truly small rose, but its high blooming capacity makes it a standout in the garden.

 

‘Sun Sprinkles’ (1999 introduction, 18-24 inches)

Image by Jackson & Perkins

The delicate yellow blooms of this 2001 All America Rose Selections Winner look like mini hybrid tea roses and have a light fragrance. ‘Sun Sprinkles’ is an exceptional Jackson & Perkins introduction. The shrubs are heat tolerant, disease resistant, and everblooming. Plants are hardy to USDA Hardiness Zone 6.

Growing Miniature Roses

As a general rule, miniature roses are as winter hardy as other garden roses, with some being bred to be a bit hardier than others. Since they are grown on their own roots and not grafted, they can withstand quite a bit of winter cold.

In our maritime Pacific Northwest climate, I have never heard of instances of them being killed by our winters. They should be treated just like other roses in the garden with at least six hours of sunlight, regular rose fertilizer, summer water and possible disease and insect control. They like a rich soil, so at time of planting, work in some Black Gold Garden Compost Blend. Most miniatures will bloom continuously throughout the summer months if the old flower buds are cut just as would be done on a regular rose bush.

Sometimes miniature roses get a bad ‘rap’ when they are sold by supermarkets and box stores during the winter months. Often these plants are sold in full bloom in small pots. These have been forced in a greenhouse controlled environment and are not meant to be planted outdoors in winter. They should be treated as a blooming houseplant, and if kept in a well lighted location, they will continue blooming for 6-8 weeks. With good indoor care, they can be planted outdoors in spring when temperatures warm up.

Growing Miniature Roses in Containers

Miniature roses make ideal container plants and can be especially useful on a deck or balcony. For a gardener that has a confined space but would like roses, miniatures are ideal. Most will bloom early in the spring and continue throughout summer and into the fall. In a container, using Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix would be an ideal mix to use at time of planting. A miniature rose growing in a container will need regular fertilization just as it would if planted in the garden.

Since they are easy to propagate, many new miniature roses are introduced every year, and some of the colors are amazing. If you perhaps do not have the space or location for a regular-size rose garden, consider growing miniatures. You will be amazed at their performance!