Author: Mike Darcy

Mike lives and gardens in a suburb of Portland, Oregon where he has resided since 1969. He grew in up Tucson, Arizona where he worked at a small retail nursery during his high school and college years. He received his formal education at the University of Arizona where he was awarded a Bachelor of Science Degree in Horticulture, and though he values his formal education, he values his field-experience more. It is hard to beat the ‘hands on’ experience of actually gardening, visiting gardens, and sharing information with other gardeners. Mike has been involved with gardening communications throughout his adult life. In addition to garden writing, he has done television gardening shows in Portland, and for over 30 years he hosted a Saturday radio talk show in Portland. Now he writes, speaks, gardens and continues to share his love of gardening. To be connected to the gardening industry is a bonus in life for Mike. He has found gardeners to be among the friendliest and most caring, generous people. Consequently, many of his friends he has met through gardening.

Generational Family Gardening with Kids

New, budding gardeners learn how to grow vegetables organically.

Gardening is best shared with multiple generations, especially for our youngest gardeners. Whether we gardeners have our own children, grandchildren, or children in the neighborhood, it is an easy role to fill. Young Millennial families are embracing gardening, so the goal for older gardeners should be to share our garden knowledge to inspire young, budding plant lovers. When everyone gardens, young and old, everyone wins.

A home garden, whether it be a small potted garden or raised bed full of vegetables, is the most natural place for kids to first discover gardening! Let them pick the flowers, harvest tomatoes, or help water and weed. Something as simple as pulling a deep dandelion root can be a great learning experience. It’s all about being outdoors and instilling a love of the earth and all the great growing things it sustains.

Gardening at home is where it starts for most families, but there are other more formal ways for gardeners to share their knowledge with the next generation. States across the country have programs to get kids involved in gardening at an early age, beginning in elementary school and continuing through high school. Most programs like these were inspired by the ground-breaking Edible Schoolyard program in Berkley, California. These are great places to volunteer your time and expertise. (Click here to learn more about national youth gardening programs).

Farm to School

Families learn to plant strawberry containers (in Black Gold mix, of course!).

One such program in my state is through the Oregon Department of Education called Farm to School program. The goal of Farm to School is to establish school vegetable gardens, started and maintained by students from seed to harvest. Currently, 46% of in Oregon public schools participate in the program. It is an excellent way to get kids started in gardening while also giving them the benefit of extra outdoor physical activity. Students learn botany and horticulture, but also science, math, nutrition, and health. Volunteer gardeners are often invited to help support Farm to School gardening activities.

Local gardens and garden centers may also provide garden support to families. Locally in the Portland, Oregon metro area, a local chain of garden centers, Al’s Garden Center, has sponsored a Kid’s Club for over twenty years, with events specifically designed for kids. Classes may be about planting strawberries or “Growing an Edible Rainbow” of tomatoes, purple beans, cucumbers, and sweet corn. In addition to the actual planting, the teachers have a lesson plan to explain what it is they are planting and how it will

Kid’s Club Members at Al’s Garden Center have fun with planting projects.

grow. (The Kid’s Club coordinator told me that many former Kids Club members, now adults with families and gardens of their own, have personally thanked her for everything they learned in the program!)

Public Gardens are also a great resource for gardening families and kids. Bellevue Botanic Garden in Seattle, Washington has great programs for kids, including popular “Kids in the Garden” sessions. (To discover a public garden near you, click here.)

Kids’ Gardening Tips

Through the years, I have visited classrooms to teach kids about gardening and taught my own grandchildren to garden. Here are a few tips that I have learned along the way:

Select a vegetable that kids like. (Veggie list for kids)
Many young kids do not like big tomatoes, so I avoid them.
Plant seeds that are large like peas, corn, or beans. (Seed list for kids)
Nasturtiums and sunflowers are great flowers for kids because their seeds are easy to handle and they germinate quickly.

Organic potting mix is the best choice for kids’ gardening projects.

For hands-on seed-planting lessons, I take a bag of organic Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Soil and fill lots of small, sturdy pots for the kids. In my experience, they love to put their hands in the soil, and for some, it will be their first time! They always enjoy planting time and watching their seeds sprout. I often take a nasturtium plant in bloom to show the kids what it will look like. Then I let them try a nasturtium leaf or stem, explaining that it will be spicy. This is always a fun project.

It is good news that we are seeing more families gardening, and I believe it is largely fueled by the organic vegetable movement. This movement has succeeded in making people more aware of the food they eat, where it comes from, and how it is grown. It has been a huge incentive for parents to begin a vegetable garden, even if gardening was not part of their history.

For those with limited space, growing vegetables in a container on a deck or patio can easily be accomplished. (Click here to learn how to grow vegetables in containers.) With grandparents and parents gardening, and the kids watching and learning, hopefully a new generation of gardeners is being born.

Sharing vegetable gardening basics with kids improves their knowledge of the cycle of life and improves their eating habits.

Top 10 Shade Garden Plants for the Pacific Northwest

It’s hard for me to list a top 10 list for any category of plants, but here I try. It is a stretch to come up with a definitive list because my favorites vary from season to season and sometimes from day to day. When people ask me what my favorite plant is, my response is likely to begin with the comment “at this moment”, and then continue on with a name. My garden palette of favorite plants has changed greatly over the years and I would expect it to continue to change. If I was asked to do this list in mid-summer, it would probably be different than what it is now.

Either way, this list includes some plants that I believe do especially well in shady summer containers. Others are purely early-season ephemerals that disappear after making a grand show in spring. Some are wonderful shrubs and summer perennials that will make any shade garden shine.

With all the plants mentioned, I have learned that they grow best in conditioned soil that is rich in organic matter. The Black Gold Earthworm Castings Blend helps provide natural fertilizer and microbial activity. For containers, Black Gold Moisture Supreme Container Mix is ideal as it too has earthworm castings as well as coir for increased water-holding capacity, which can be very important in the summer.

Also, be aware of different types of shade conditions in your yard before planting a new plant. Perhaps there are tree roots that might rob the soil of precious moisture in the summer, in which case adding a layer of water-holding soil amendment might help.

#1 Hellebores

These effortless perennials would have to be number one on my list, not only because they tolerate shade, but because they are among the first plants to bloom in late winter/early spring. They are also very easy to care for, their flowers come in a variety of colors, and their evergreen leaves look great all season long. There are many different named cultivars on the market. For me, the variety ‘Jacob’ is a very reliable early bloomer, and ‘Double Painted’ has extraordinary dark red and white color. They are true summer perennials that send up stems of lily-like lavender or white flowers are varying times in the season.

#2 Bleeding Heart

Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) are elegant spring bloomers in their own right, but the golden-leaved ‘Gold Heart’ is my very favorite. The stunning yellow foliage is outstanding and glows above the sweet, rose-pink, heart-shaped flowers that appear in mid-spring. This herbaceous perennial dies to the ground in the fall and then returns again in spring.

#3 Pacific Trillium

The white-flowered Pacific trillium (Trillium ovatum) is a western native and a superb woodland plant. The plant appears in early spring and flowers in late March. The stem is topped with a whorl of three leaves and in the center is a stalk of usually white flowers. By summer, the foliage will disappear until the next spring season. Trillium plants do not like to be disturbed so plant them an area where they can be left alone.

#4 May Apple

Another great spring ephemeral that makes a big statement in the early shade garden, the May apple (Podophyllum peltatum) is grown for its unusual parasol-like leaves. The foliage color varies depending on the cultivar, as leaves can be solid green or patterned with shades of brown. The flowers are not readily visible as they appear under the large leaves. The elegant hybrid Podophyllum ‘Spotty Dotty’ has particularly striking foliage of palest greenish yellow spotted with reddish brown.

#5 Elephant Ear

A tender shade plant for summer, elephant ear (Colocasia esculenta) grows well in summer warmth and likes some filtered sunlight. It’s bold leaves look spectacular in large summer container. The plants like a lot of moisture so water regularly for best looks and performance. There are many varieties with large leaves in bright green, yellowish, and dark purple shades. Try the cultivar ‘Black Magic’, which has deepest purple leaves that almost look black. In fall, harvest the bulbs and store them in a cool dry place over winter. Then plant them again the following spring.

#6 Caladium

Caladium candidum (Image by Jessie Keith)

Another beautiful shade plant with amazingly colorful foliage is Caladium. This tender summer plant is grown from tubers that are sold at garden centers in the spring. Caladium are grown for their large arrow-shaped leaves which have patterns of green, white, pink and silver. They are excellent plants for a shady location. If given regular moisture in summer, they will provide foliage color where many plants might struggle.

# 7 Hosta

*Hosta* ‘Paul’s Glory’ (Image by Jessie Keith)

No top 10 shade plant list would be complete without the ever-useful hosta. Hosta is a traditional shade-loving foliage plant that comes in a wide range of sizes and colors. Ideal for creating patterns that weave throughout a flower bed, hostas are lush, diverse, and beautiful. Standard hostas are green but cultivars are hugely diverse with foliage of grayish blue to yellow and variegated bicolors in every shade in between. Some are several feet in height and others may only reach a few inches. All grow best in rich, well-drained soil that offers some moisture on hot summer days.

# 8 Siberian Bugloss

Another great summer foliage plant for shade is Siberian bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla). Its pretty, heart-shaped leaves add texture to shaded spots and variegated varieties, such as the ‘Jack Frost’, brighten shaded gardens. The leaves of ‘Jack Frost’ are silver, with green veins and a green border. In spring it produces small, delicate stems of violet-blue flowers. Siberian bugloss likes the same growing conditions as hostas.

#9 Oakleaf Hydrangeas

Alice Oakleaf Hydrangea (Image by Jessie Keith)

Few shade-loving shrubs offer the bold good looks of hydrangeas and oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) are offered in a wide variety of pleasing cultivars. All are shade-loving plants even though many will tolerate a fair amount of sun with adequate moisture, a good reason to amend their soil with Black Gold Garden Compost Blend. Check with your local garden center to discover on best varieties for your garden situation.

#10 Primroses

For early season color, few flowers are as delightful and diverse as primroses (Primula spp.). Primroses are often one of the first flowers that garden centers will sell in the spring. All tend to flourish in shady gardens in our area, and the low-growing perennials come in many different flower colors.

So there are ten current shade plants on my list, but that list is ever evolving and will probably change tomorrow. Let is serve as a guide to gardeners wishing to plant reliable shade plants in their gardens. Another tip is to visiting your local garden center to get specific planting advice for your tastes and garden situation.

Amazing Rhododendrons and Azaleas

Rhododendron ‘Caractacus’ (Waterer Hybrid) has many magenta clusters, or trusses, of flowers in spring. (Image by Jessie Keith)

I cannot recall being in a Pacific Northwest garden that does not have rhododendrons and azaleas. Most gardens have many, and deservedly so. The hybrids can provide beautiful trusses of flowers throughout the spring and there are native species with smaller flowers but a very sweet fragrance. Our cool and moist climate is an ideal environment, and with a little extra care, they will thrive.

Rhododendron and Azalea Differences

Rhododendron 'Springtime' (Gable Hybrid) JaKMPM — Azalea Springtime’ is a pretty pink variety that will brighten any spring landscape. (Image by Jessie Keith)

While they can usually take full sun, my experience is that they seem to prefer some protection from the hot summer sun. Botanically, all azaleas are Rhododendron species, but there are several characteristics that distinguish these plants. 1. Rhododendrons usually have flowers in large clusters called “trusses”, and azaleas do not. 2. Rhododendron leaves tend to have scales, dots or dense hairs on their undersides while azaleas tend to have leaves with small hairs on the tops and bottoms. 3. Rhododendron flowers tend to have 10 or more floral stamens and azalea flowers tend to have 5. Plants can be both evergreen and deciduous (though more rhododendron are evergreen) and both like similar growing conditions.

R. Yaku Angel flowers — *Rhododendron yakushimanum* ‘Yaku Angel’ has extra pretty pink and white spring trusses. (Image by Mike Darcy)

As with many plants, there is a large diversity among rhododendrons and azaleas and some plants can tolerate more direct sun than others. When buying a plant, check the label as it should give a clue to the light requirement. Also, check the label for height as some plants can become small trees while others may stay as small shrubs. Bloom time is also variable and with a little research, one can have blooms from early spring, (February/March), and on through early summer. Peak bloom time for most plants would be May and the flower colors are as diverse as any group of plants that I can think of with shades of purple, white, yellow, orange, pink, and red. While most are solid colors, some can be bi-colored and others have speckles.

Rhododendron and Azalea Varieties

One of my favorite rhododendron varieties is Rhododendron yakushimanum ‘Yaku Angel’. It has wonderful white, felt-like new growth and soft brown hairs under the leaves called indumentum that feels like velvet to the touch. The flowers are light pink in bud and open to white. It is a beautiful shrub in the garden at any season, whether in bloom or not. The new rhododendron ‘Dark Lord’ is a very compact, burgundy-flowered variety that is also exceptionally beautiful and reliably cold hardy.

Rhododendron indumentum — The soft, coppery hair underneath the leaves of some rhododendron is called “indumentum”.

There are lots of great azaleas to choose from. One of the best for glowing spring color is the blazing orange-red-flowered ‘Fireball’. The popular azalea Bollywood™ is another much-sought variety that boasts cream and dark green variegated foliage in addition to bright red flowers. The classic azalea ‘Springtime’ is a more subdued cultivar with rich pink flowers that appear in mid spring.

Rhododendron and Azalea Culture

Both rhododendrons and azaleas like a soil that is slightly on the acid side, a 5-6 pH should be good. They need a constant supply of moisture, but good drainage is essential. Their roots should never be saturated.

In the natural environment, rhododendrons and azaleas often grow below tall trees. In these forested environments, the trees drop needles or leaves to create a natural organic layer. In a garden setting, these shrubs also appreciate good organic content in the soil. Black Gold Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss is ideal to use as a soil amendment at the time of planting. In my garden, I also like to add Black Gold Garden Compost Blend as a spring garden top dressing to help conserve moisture during the summer. Once rhododendron and azaleas plants are established in a garden, they are relatively easy to maintain

Most commonly, these shrubs set flower buds on the prior years’ wood. That means the buds for spring flowering plants form during the previous summer or fall. If you prune in late summer, you may be cutting off your flowers buds and not have any blooms in the spring. A good rule is to prune right after flowering.

In addition to their spectacular flowers, some evergreen rhododendrons have a material on the new leaves and undersides of the leaves, called indumentum. It is a wooly or hairy covering that is often a beautiful copper color and provides color all year.

Many cities in the Pacific Northwest have rhododendron gardens, which are ideal for visitors to learn how they perform in the garden and in the elements. Rhododendron gardens can also give gardeners ideas on companion plants that look and perform well with these shrubs. I would suggest visiting one of these rhododendron gardens as it may open your eyes to many rhodies you did not even know existed!

Rhododendron 'David Gable' (Gable Hybrid) JaKMPM — Rhododendron naturally live in forests under trees. (Image by Jessie Keith)

Growing Hardy Carnivorous Plants

This fanciful pot of pitcher plants shows the fun you can have with carnivorous plants!

When I was in high school, I bought a Venus fly trap (Dionaea muscipula) because carnivorous plants always intrigued me. It survived a mere few weeks and died. Then when I was in college, I tried again with the same results. Perhaps it was living in hot, dry southern Arizona that did the last plant in, but it was my last attempt to grow Venus fly trap for several years.

Upon moving to Oregon in the late ’60s, I began gardening in earnest with my focus primarily on a huge diversity of perennials and shrubs. It was as though I could not stop buying plants, and with every trip to a garden center, I came home with new ones. But there were no carnivorous plants in the mix. Not yet.

Then on a visit to Southern Oregon and a stop at Darlingtonia State Natural Site, my interest in carnivorous plants was renewed. Here were cobra lilies, (Darlingtonia californica) growing in the wild. It was more delightful than I could have imagined.

Carnivorous Plants for the Garden

Craig, Pitcher Plant, Man — Cobra lily pitchers are unique and look like scary monsters when figurines are included.

As my gardening intensified, I began to visit other local gardens and one in particular had beds of carnivorous plants. I will never forget it. There were cobra lilies, pitcher plants (Sarracenia spp.) and Venus fly traps, all growing out in the open with no protection from the elements. And, they were beautiful plants in an array of colors.

I was particularly taken with the colors of the pitcher plants with their pitchers in shades of red, chartreuse, maroon, brown and many had intricate veining colors. I knew then that I had to have some of these in my garden! Since that time, I have cultivated several containers of these marvelous plants and find them surprisingly easy to grow.

Carnivorous Plant Cultivation

Hardy carnivorous plants naturally grow in bogs and other wetlands where soil-nutrient resources are scarce. That’s why they resort to catching insects to get their “vitamins”. So, it should come as no surprise that certain growing conditions must be met to have success growing these plants. Thankfully, these conditions are not difficult to achieve.

Here are some tips from a Sarracenia gardener, which I have implemented with good success. (This method is also suitable for growing all manner of hardy carnivorous plants.) Select a location in the sun and dig a pit about 18-inches deep and as wide as you want the bed. Then cover the pit with a pond liner and make small slits in the bottom of the liner to allow slow drainage. Sarracenias like soil to be consistently moist but not saturated. Then add a mixture of 3:1 ratio of Black Gold® Peat Moss to pumice. This has proved to be an ideal mix for plants planted both in the ground and slow-draining containers.

A note of caution: do not use a potting mix with fertilizer. These plants do not need or like mix with added fertilizer. They get their nutrients from the insects they capture. In the case of Sarracenia, insects are attracted to a combination of scent and “drugged” edible deposits along with the pitchers that make them fall inside where they are unable to escape due to the presence of slippery hairs that push them downward. Once they fall to the bottom of the pitchers, they drown in secretions and are absorbed by the plant.

Fun to Grow!

Venus fly traps can be challenging to grow for the uneducated gardener. — Venus fly traps can be challenging to grow without the cultivation basics.

Carnivorous plants are a superb way to get children involved in horticulture. I have learned that my grandchildren delight in showing visitors the trapped insects in the pitchers of Sarracenia or the jaws of a Venus flytrap.

Each year I seem to expand my Sarracenia and Darlingtonia collection by adding new cultivars with different colors. My plants thrive in a large container, in full sun and are left outside in the winter with no damage. In the last few years, I have noticed more gardeners using carnivorous plants, and their availability at local garden centers has steadily increased. Try some Sarracenia in your garden containers this year, you might be pleasantly surprised.

Sarracenia_purpurosa_france_2007_-_2 Oliver pouzin — The ornamental pitchers of the purple pitcher plant (*Sarracenia purpurea*) are as pretty as its flowers. (image by Oliver Pouzin)

Blooms in the Ice: The Joy of Late Winter Bulbs

Snowdrops break through the ice of a forest floor in February.

Here in the Pacific Northwest, this past November and early December were very warm and mild. My tropical red-leaf bananas did not die until a hard freeze shortly before Christmas (almost unheard of), and many gardeners had summer- and fall-blooming plants still in flower. Neighbors showed me their 3-4 inch spring daffodils that had emerged and asked if they were going to bloom for New Years! Their hopes were squelched in mid-December a sudden blast of ice, snow, and bitterly cold weather arrived. But, there are other winter-blooming bulbs that can withstand the cold and reliably bloom in snowy months.

Bulbs that perform well at this time of year are often overlooked and rarely planted. This is likely because people are generally not visiting other gardens in winter, so they do not have the opportunity to discover the beauty and diversity of winter bulbs.

Hardy Cyclamen

IMG_4852 (1) — Cyclamen coum brighten a Seattle garden landscape in mid-February. (Image by Jessie Keith)

While not actually bulbs, the tuberous Cyclamen coum is a superb garden plant for Pacific Northwest winters. The shade-lover forms mats of attractive, heart-shaped foliage and produces many colorful flowers in shades of deepest magenta and white, that bloom in mid to late winter. Even when not in bloom, the leaves have variable colors and patterns that range from green to silver with wonderful variations in patterns of these two colors. The winter-hardy plant (USDA Hardiness Zones 7-9) survives in most areas west of the Cascades and provides a long season of bloom. (Please note that these hardy Cyclamen species are not the tender hybrid plants that you would find in a florist shop.)

Usually, garden centers will carry two hardy cyclamen (C. coum and C. hederifolium). The difference is that C. hederifolium tends to bloom in late summer and well into the fall season, with plants still showing some color in November in my neighborhood. In my garden, I grow both species and find them very easy to cultivate. Both have become naturalized under my trees, in much the same way hellebores spread. I have found that hardy Cyclamen perform best in a soil that is rich in humus or compost, and I add Black Gold Garden Compost when planting. Especially when planting Cyclamen under and around established trees. The compost helps to keep the soil from totally drying out in a hot summer.

Winter Aconite

Another winter-flowering tuber not often seen in gardens is winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis). It is in the Ranunculus family and has single yellow flowers that look like buttercups. Plant the small tubers in the fall in soil that has been enriched with Black Gold Garden Compost. Once established, these plants will naturally spread and become reliable winter bloomers. Winter Aconite will also naturalize under trees if left undisturbed.

Snowdrops

Snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) are some of the best-known of the winter bulbs. The very hardy true bulbs bloom as early as January and produce delicate, pendulous blooms of white dotted with green. These attract bees on warm winter days. The extremely cold-tolerant flowers are often seen peeking up from light snows, lending unique beauty to the winter garden. Over time they will also naturalize.

Early Crocus

The delicate woodland crocus blooms very early in the season. (Image by Jessie Keith)

The woodland crocus (Crocus tommasinianus) is one of the earliest crocus to bloom, often appearing in February gardens. The delicate pale purple-pink flowers create blankets of color in wooded landscapes and lawns. Once the flowers are past blooming, they will disappear until the next season.

Since the foliage of hardy cyclamen, winter aconite, snowdrops, and similar winter bloomers disappear in the summer, I would suggest adding companion plants with extended interest that grow in similar conditions. Evergreen hellebores make nice complimentary plantings. Not only do they bloom in winter, but the evergreen plants offer interesting foliage all year long.

At this time of the year, the weather can be cold and not exactly “garden friendly”, but there is still lots to see at nearby botanical gardens. A visit to your local public garden might enrich your plant palette with some unexpected winter-blooming treasures.

Happy New Year to you all, and may your gardens flourish and provide you much pleasure.

“So what’s the point? The point is to relax and enjoy gardening, remembering that nature is always in charge.” –Tony Avent, Plant Delights Nursery

Winter Garden Plants for Holiday Cheer

*bodnantense* Helleborus ‘Cotton Candy’ (Image thanks to Terra Nova Nurseries)

In years past, Pacific Northwest gardeners have put their gardens to bed at the end of summer. This is changing. I see a greater trend towards maintaining garden color using ever-beautiful perennials and woody plants. This trend was reinforced while visiting a gardening friend last fall. He said that his garden looked too barren after he had removed all his summer annuals and cut back his herbaceous perennials. So, he sought to fix the problem. He embarked on a quest to learn how other gardeners achieved year-round color and was delighted to discover a vast selection of winter garden plants.

Unusual Winter Berries

Callicarpa 'Beautyberry' — *Callicarpa bodinieri* ‘Profusion’

With the holidays approaching, it is especially nice to learn about plants that provide natural holiday color. Probably one of the best-known plants for fall and winter color is Bodinier’s beautyberry (Callicarpa bodinieri ‘Profusion’, zones 6-8). This hardy, deciduous shrub is an impressive, easy-care shrub for home gardeners. Sometime in late autumn, the leaves turn orange to yellow, and once they fall, the branches show off clusters of beautiful purple berries. In my own garden, I cut the berried branches to bring indoors for decoration. This also allows me to do some winter pruning.

Winter-Flowering Shrubs

Another wonderful shrub for the holidays is the deciduous, winter-blooming Viburnum x bodnantense ‘Dawn’ (zones 5-7). In early winter the buds on the stems emerge with pink, fragrant flowers. The stems can be cut before the flowers open and brought indoors where they will open and provide bloom and fragrance for several weeks. Another highly fragrant bloomer that breaks bud in January is wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox, zones 6-9). This Chinese native offers pale-yellow and maroon flowers that appear on bare branches. The red-flowering Yuletide camellia (Camellia sasanqua ‘Yuletide’, zones 7-10) is another very cheerful bloomer that often produces colorful flowers from fall through winter.

Elegant Evergreens

We should not neglect dwarf, or very slow growing, conifers. These are ideal plants for small landscapes, garden borders, or outdoor containers. A favorite of mine is Abies koreana ‘Horstmann’s Silberlocke’ (zones 5-7), which draws comments from visitors no matter what the time of year. This beautiful fir has needles that curve slightly around the stem and reveal blue tops and silver-white undersides. Another is Pinus parviflora ‘Goldilocks’ (zones 5-8) with the needles taking on a golden hew which provides a pop of color year round.

Larger evergreens can also add real grace to winter landscapes. Of these, the weeping Alaskan cedar (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis ‘Pendula’, zones 4 to 7) is especially beautiful with its elegant weeping branches. This tree can reach 35 feet or more, so be sure to give it lots of space.

Dwarf conifers can easily be grown in containers using Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix. They are also perfect for a border garden. When planting in-ground plants, I recommend amending the soil with Black Gold Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss, which is best suited to plants that prefer slightly acid soils, such as conifers.

Colorful Hellebores

Helleborus_Cotton_Candy_4b-1 — Helleborus × hybridus ‘Cotton Candy’ (Image thanks to Terra Nova Nursery)

I would be remiss without mentioning hellebores (Helleborus spp., zones 5-8). These hardy, evergreen perennials are often seen in older gardens, but 10-15 years ago they had a resurgence in popularity. They are ideally suited to Northwest gardens with cool, moist shade. Many new cultivars developed in recent years that bloom earlier and longer. The English introduction, Winter Sunshine (Helleborus × ericsmithii Winter Sunshine) and the Terra Nova introduction Cotton Candy (Helleborus × hybridus Cotton Candy, Winter Jewels™ Series) are just two great selections from which to choose. Some of the newer hellebores that I planted are even beginning to bloom in my early December garden.

Hellebores like soil with plenty of humus material, and the addition of Black Gold Garden Compost Blend at planting time is ideal. Local garden centers are now stocking potted hellebores in bud and bloom, and they make ideal host/hostess gifts. They can be left inside for 7-10 days and then hardened off on a cold porch to be planted outdoors, either in the ground or in a container. In a container, use Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix and the evergreen plants will provide both winter and spring interest for years to come.

Abies 'Silberlocke' — *Abies koreana* ‘Silberlocke’

I hear from many listeners on my In the Garden with Mike Darcy radio program on KXL Portland and often receive photos of some of their favorite winter plants. The ones that I have mentioned are just a sampling.

With this year ending, I wish you all a very happy New Year! May we continue to share the enjoyment that our gardens provide us. And, may you find some new plants for your garden. There’s always room for one more!

Smart Tips for Growing African Violets

African violets are popular for their colorful, ever-blooming flowers and compact size. (Image by Jessie Keith)

I once heard someone say that the African violet was “America’s Favorite Houseplant”. While I do not know if this is true, it has certainly been a house plant staple for years. The compact pretty plants bloom throughout the year with flowers that come in a multitude of colors. They are very specific and needy when it comes to care. The wrong soil, humidity, watering regime, and temperature can keep plants from blooming or even kill them, but get them right and you are in for a year-round floral show.

As the name denotes, African violets, (Saintpaulia ionantha hybrids) originate from Africa. They were discovered in the late 1800s (in an area that is now Tanzania) growing naturally on shaded rocky ledges in the Usambara mountains. The original flower color on the plants was blue. It is believed that the first commercial production of plants occurred in 1893 in Germany. Seeds were imported into California from Germany and England in 1926. And now African violets are among the most popular house plants in the United States.

Just like outdoor plants, proper soil is essential for plants to grow and be healthy. African violets seem to do best in a planting soil that has been created for them. Plants need enough water to keep the soil moist but not soggy and Black Gold African Violet Potting Soil fulfills this requirement. The blend of Canadian Sphagnum peat moss, compost, perlite/pumice, and earthworm casting is ideal.

The air temperature around African violets is important. It should be close to 70 degrees F. Good air circulation is another important factor; if there is not adequate air movement, powdery mildew and rot may develop.

Bright light is needed for plants to flower well. (Image by Jessie Keith)

Bright but indirect light is essential for African violets, so choose a spot near a window that’s out of the direct sun. The right light inspires overall good plant health and flowering. If an African violet does not get enough light, it will stop flowering and the leaf stems may elongate and leaves turn yellow. Keep a lookout for these symptoms. The plant will ‘tell’ you if it is not getting enough light.

Many plants like having their leaves sprayed with water, but the African violet is an exception. Large water droplets on the leaves will often cause brown spots and ugly mottling. Growers keep their potted plants in a saucer or on wicking mats, so plants can be watered from the bottom of the rather than the top.

800px-Saintpaulia_'Pink_Amiss'_02 — Flower colors range from deepest purple to bright pink and white. (Image by Jessie Keith)

African Violets are very easy to start from leaf cuttings and this can be a fun exercise for children. It is also a good way to get new colors and varieties by exchanging leaves with other growers. Begin by cutting a healthy leaf and placing the stem in a container of moist vermiculite, such as Black Gold Vermiculite. Roots will usually begin to form in about thirty days. After another 30-60 days, the stem can be placed in a small pot of Black Gold African Violet Soil. Leaves will begin to develop from the leaf base over the following month.

It would be difficult to think of another house plant that will provide the continuous blooms and variety of colors as an African violet. Most garden centers with a house plant section will have an area devoted to African violets. Check to see if your city has an African Violet Society. Attending a meeting is an excellent way to meet others with a similar interest. There are also African Violet Shows where members sell plants and rooted cuttings, which provides a way to increase your collection.

Mike Darcy’s Favorite Fall Trees and Flowers

This Stewartia pseudocamellia is in fall color.

The fall season is upon us and what a glorious time of year it is. As I walk around my neighborhood and drive around Portland, the many deciduous trees are turning brilliant shades of color. The more brilliant they are, the better.

Favorite Fall Trees

Stewartia pseudocamellia seed pods, L Foltz 2014 — Stewartia pseudocamellia seed pods

Many maples are turning red, some are orange, and others are shades of yellow. The Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba) trees are turning golden yellow, and our summer annuals are telling us that their time is almost over. Sometimes we can have a tree that gives us scarlet fall foliage as well as beautiful seed pods. Stewartia pseudocamellia is just such a tree. Mine is planted in my front yard where it takes center stage.

Salvias

Yet, there is still much color in the garden, not only from foliage but from flowers as well. In my own garden, I am quite a Salvia fan and always willing to try new varieties. This past spring I purchased Salvia splendens Saucy™ Red, and I was rather disappointed with it in summer. It did not flower well compared to my Salvia guaranitica ‘Black & Blue’. Well, I had a very pleasant surprise this September. Evidently, Saucy™ Red likes cooler weather, shorter day-length, or maybe both, because it burst into full bloom and has continued ever since. It is mid-October, and the 7-foot-tall plant has burnished scarlet flowers on almost every stem. Sadly, the tender plants are only hardy to USDA Zones 9-10, so I will have to replant if I want to enjoy this Salvia again.

Impatiens tinctoria

Another new garden flower this year is the 8-foot-tall, large-flowered, Impatiens tinctoria, which comes from the rain forests of East Africa. I had first seen it growing in a friend’s garden three years ago and was surprised to learn that it is a winter hardy perennial, surviving USDA Zones 7-11. This is my second year to grow it, and I learned that it likes grows best in shade with protection from the hot afternoon sun. In the spring, I worked lots of humus into the soil around it and mixed in Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Soil. Today my plants are over 6 feet tall and blooming with a flower that does not look anything like a garden impatiens. These flowers are fragrant at night and attract much attention from garden visitors.

Cover Crops

Now is the time of year to put the summer vegetable garden to bed. The tomatoes are finished, as well as the beans, squash, peppers, etc. Once these plants are removed, it is an ideal time to prepare the soil for next season. Mix Black Gold^® Garden Soil 0.05 – 0.02 -0.05 into the beds and plant a cover crop. Cover crops are broadcast legumes, or grasses such as buckwheat, that are planted to cover the garden in winter and are tilled under in spring.

Legumes are plants in the Pea Family (Fabaceae) and include clovers and vetches. With the help of symbiotic bacteria called Rhizobium, they “fix” nitrogen from the air back into the soil, making it available to other plants. Thus, by planting a cover crop, you increase the nitrogen level of your soil while also protecting your beds from erosion and aggressive winter weeds. The added organic matter from the spring-tilled cover crop with also benefit your garden soil.

We always get some “sunny windows” during this season. These windows give us a wonderful opportunity to get out in the garden and do fall chores. Fall is also a great time to “edit” your garden. We all have plants that have gotten too big, are in the wrong place, or maybe we are tired of them. Walk around your garden with a note pad and make notes on garden editing that you can do throughout winter. But, most importantly, enjoy the season and its many colors.

Shrubs with Fall Color

This late-season Pacific Northwest landscape shows the bountiful blooms of a pink-flowered crape myrtle.

In the spring, gardens come alive with tulips and other spring-flowering bulbs, and the peonies and many other herbaceous perennials emerge from the soil. It is a time of much anticipation for gardeners. We often visit our local garden centers to see what is new, in bloom, and what we must have. In the fall season, however, gardeners are less apt to visit garden centers or other gardens. As a result, many late-blooming trees and shrubs are overlooked when there are so many trees and shrubs with fall color to consider.

I began to seek out trees and shrubs that provide good fall color some time ago. Whether the color comes from flowers, berries, bark, or foliage, there is a surprising assortment to chose from. My plants of choice were selected for Pacific Northwest gardeners, but they can also be cultivated in other parts of the country.

Hydrangea

While hydrangeas are noted for their spectacular flowers in late spring and summer, some varieties provide great fall color. One is Hydrangea paniculata ‘Fire and Ice’. The cream-colored spring flowers change to pink as the season progresses, and by the end of summer the papery blooms turn dark to medium pink.

Oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) put on a great fall show with both colorful flowers and foliage. Not only do their pinkish-tan flowers remain attractive into winter, but their leaves turn brilliant shades of red. ‘Snow Queen’ is a large, carefree oakleaf hydrangea with rich mahogany red fall leaves and very large flowers.

Hydrangeas grow best in humus-rich, moderately moist soil. Before planting amend with Black Gold Peat Moss Plus. It contains an organic wetting agent and helps hold soil moisture during the hot days of summer.

Crape Myrtle

There are so many selections of crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) that it can be difficult to make a decision if one only has space for a single plant. Older varieties were traditionally late blooming and prone to powdery mildew here in the Pacific Northwest, but most new selections are resistant to powdery mildew and will flower from July to September. An added bonus is that crape myrtles bloom on new growth, so they can be pruned to size in winter or spring if space is a consideration. The flower colors range from white to lavender to shades of pink and red. Some varieties even have red, bronze, or dark purple foliage, which can provide a nice contrast against a home or large border.

Peanut Butter Shrub

Clerodendron trichotomum fruits look almost like flowers and remain colorful on the shrubs until early fall. — *Clerodendron trichotomum* fruits look almost like flowers and remain colorful on the shrubs until early fall.

Clerodendron trichotomum, often referred to as the “peanut butter shrub” due to its leaf and stem fragrance, is a mid- to late-summer bloomer that produces brilliant clusters of fall fruits. Each fruit has four fuchsia calyces that surround a metallic turquoise drupe. The showy fruits remain on the tree into the early fall.

European Spindle Tree

Euonymus europaeus ‘Aldenhamensis’, (European spindle tree) produces a comparable display of brilliant fruits. In spring, rather nondescript clusters of small white flowers appear. In fall, fruits appear that are brilliant pink outside and open to show orange berries. If that is not enough, the leaves turn brilliant fuchsia before dropping.

There is much to be seen in the garden at this time of year. Not only are summer annuals still going strong and dahlias at their prime, but many trees and shrubs are putting on quite a show that should not be missed. It is a good time to visit your local garden center to discover these and other fall-blooming trees and shrubs for autumn. (Click here to discover more fabulous fall-blooming shrubs.)

Late-Summer Gardening in the Pacific Northwest

Fuchsia ‘Dying Embers’ has lovely deep purple flowers that draw hummingbirds.

It seems as though the gardening season has flown by, and here it is August already. I think August is a good month to relax and enjoy the fruits of your labor; summer is not quite over and autumn has not yet begun. The summer vegetable gardens are peaking with tomatoes, squash, melons, beans, cucumbers, and all the other seasonal crops. The flower garden is bursting with the color of all the late-season bloomers, like dahlias, crape myrtle, hardy hibiscus, salvias, and the list goes on.

Late-Summer Food Crops

Lycopersicon esculentum 'Early Girl' JaKMPM — 2016 has been a great year for tomatoes in the Pacific Northwest.

This has been a good season for tomatoes, and I am hearing from other gardeners that their crops are abundant. We had both a mild winter and spring and tomatoes, which usually do not ripen until September in the Pacific Northwest, are turning red.

This year the season for commercial fruit and berry growers is about two weeks ahead of normal. Last week I visited with the Market Manager of the Beaverton (OR) Farmers Market, and she said that apples that are usually brought to the Market in September maturing by mid-August. Fall apples are now ripening in late summer!

Hardy Hibiscus

Hibiscus 'Tie Dye' — Hibiscus ‘Tie Dye’ is a late-summer gem producing 10-inch pink and white flowers with cherry-red eyes.

Since there is not much we can do about the weather, we should look to the garden and enjoy it and all the color it has to offer. A favorite pastime of mine is walking through the garden in the early morning before the sun has gotten hot. I like looking at all the color that the August garden provides. In the past few weeks, I have been adding hardy hibiscus, (Hibiscus moscheutos), to my garden, and I am enjoying this late-blooming hardy perennial.

Often when people hear the word “Hibiscus”, they think of the tropical Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) from East Asia. Instead, this hibiscus is native to the eastern United States, and I remind garden enthusiasts that if it can survive a winter in Michigan or Ohio, it will certainly survive a Portland winter. One of its attributes is that it blooms later in the season, July-September, when many other herbaceous perennials are long gone. Check out your local garden center as they should have plants in bloom now. In addition to flower color, (white, pink, red, and all shades in between), this hibiscus has a variety of foliage colors from solid green to dark red and almost black.

Hardy hibiscus like to be planted in full sun and need summer watering. In fact, it is a wetland plant that grows well in continuously moist ground. That’s why I mix Black Gold Garden Compost into the soil before I plant to help hold moisture.

Fuchsia

Our Pacific Northwest climate is ideal for growing fuchsias and most are nonstop bloomers. All summer they attract hummingbirds, which is an added benefit. A fuchsia that I saw in a garden late last summer was called ‘Dying Embers‘. This prolific bloomer was a must-have in my garden this year, and it is not a disappointment with its small, very dark purple blooms. I have my plant in a large pot filled with Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Soil. As the August sun has been hot and bright, I am very glad that I did because it holds moisture while also providing good drainage and boost of organic fertilizer.

BG-Seedling-1.5cu — Mid-to late-summer is the time to start seeds for fall planting.

Seed Starting

August is also the time to be thinking about the fall garden. Most of our winters are mild enough to allow vegetable cultivation through the coldest months. Sow seeds now for cool-season crops such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts. Start seeds now in seed trays with Black Gold Seedling Mix and plant them outdoors by late summer. (Click here to learn more about starting plants from seed.) For gardeners with limited space, or those wishing to grow vegetables on a deck or patio, try starting leafy vegetables from seed in a pot using Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix. Leaf lettuce is quick to germinate and can provide several cuttings before frost.

This is an ideal time of year to visit other gardens and see what is blooming. I like to encourage gardeners to visit new gardens, talk with other gardeners, and learn what plants have done well, or not so well. We often tend to visit other gardens in the spring and early summer, but many plant surprises can be also discovered in late-summer gardens.

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