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Nuts For Edible Landscaping

Nuts are some of nature’s most nutritious foods. They are high in fats and vitamins and provide essential forage for wildlife. Nut trees also look beautiful in home landscapes. If you are willing to gather their shelled fruits in fall and roast or toast them, then consider planting some of these fine woody plants in your yard this fall.

These trees include a mix of native American, European, and Asian nuts that homeowners might consider. So long as you choose a disease-resistant tree that’s hardy to your zone and fit for your yard, you are set. All of the selections here are non-invasive, widely adaptable, and suitable for growing across much of the country. One setback is that some of the larger trees can take several years to produce.

Almonds

Blooming almond tree branch and almond garden background

The common almond tree (Prunus dulcis) is one that can only be typically grown in warmer regions due to its USDA Hardiness Zones 7-9 limits, but some newer varieties are hardier. Almonds grow best in more Mediterranean climates but will also grow moderately well in areas with more rain, if provided full sun, an open area with good airflow, and very well-drained soil.

Almond trees are beautiful in the landscape. They are closely related to peaches and have the prettiest white or pale pink flowers that typically bloom in March. These flowers are 100% bee-pollinated and fragrant. In fall, almond fruits dry on the tree and split open when ready for harvest. They mature around October or November, so warmer, drier autumn weather is a must. For best nut production, plan on planting two to three trees for cross-pollination. Different varieties are more compatible than others for pollination, so it is essential to match trees well at planting time.

For home landscapes, choose some of the newer varieties that are compact and hardier. The hardy, later blooming Nikita’s Gift survives up to Zone 5, so it is a good choice for gardeners further north. The tree is compact, reaching up to 12 feet, its nuts are high quality, and they produce earlier in September. It is pollination compatible with the equally hardy, early fruiting, Oracle, in addition to the highly productive variety, Seaside.

Common Hazelnut

New breeding has made it easy to grow high-grade hazelnuts in most yards.

Be choosy when picking a good common hazelnut (Corylus avellana) tree. Wise gardeners only grow varieties that are completely resistant to eastern filbert blight, a potentially deadly fungal disease that can kill a susceptible hazelnut in just two years. The disease threatened the US Hazelnut industry before the Oregon State University championed a hazelnut breeding program that resulted in several top-notch, resistant hazelnuts for professional growers and homeowners alike. These are the trees that produce the high-grade nuts that you expect to find in the supermarket or quality chocolate bars. Varieties that are fast-growing and compact are also choice. Keep in mind that hazelnuts need more than one tree to produce nuts, so plan on planting at least two or three.

Most new hazelnut varieties are compact for easy harvest.

One of the best varieties is ‘Jefferson‘, a compact, hardy tree (8 to 12 feet, USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8) with a pleasing upright habit. Its nuts are very large and flavorful. For good cross-pollination and fruitset, plant this tree alongside the equally compact and disease-resistant variety ‘Theta‘, which bears medium-sized nuts with good flavor. Both of these trees start producing nuts just two to three years after planting.

Another cross-pollinator compatible with ‘Jefferson’ is the extra high yielding ‘Yamhill‘. It is also a compact tree with an attractive, broad, spreading growth habit. Its nuts are large and delicious.

Japanese Chestnut

These wild Japanese chestnuts have fallen on a forest floor, ready for collecting.

Chestnut blight is a deadly disease that attacks most chestnuts, but the Asian Japanese chestnut (Castanea crenata), is the most resistant species of them all. Its fruits are delicious and bear heavily when trees grow to maturity, so plan to harvest loads when trees mature. Otherwise, they can be a bit of a mess. The broad canopied trees can reach 40 to 60 feet and are attractive in their own right. Well-drained loamy soil and full sunshine will ensure the best overall growth.

Some Japanese chestnut varieties are more compact, while the species grow to become large trees.

Japanese chestnuts produce showy ivory catkin flowers in spring that look a bit like clusters of fuzzy streamers. Nuts mature by fall and are held within prickly burrs that split open to bear two to three chestnuts. Unlike the other trees mentioned, these are self-fertile and don’t require another for cross-pollination.

English Walnut

Mature English walnuts are regal trees that produce lots of nuts.

A classic nut for cooking, the English walnut (Juglans regia) is a hardy tree that will reach up to 60 feet. Despite its common name, its native range extends from Europe across to Central Asia. For happy trees, plant them in fertile, upland soils and full sun. The non-showy, wind-pollinated flowers bloom in late spring and nuts appear by late fall. They are encased by a resinous green outer shell that splits open to reveal a perfectly formed walnut. A cross-pollinating second tree is not essential but can increase nut production. Trees can take up to 20 years to bear nuts, but some varieties can take just six years before producing.

Expect walnut trees to reach between 40 and 60 feet tall unless the variety is a compact selection.

The thin-shelled ‘Carpathian’ is a Polish heirloom variety selected in the 1930s that is remarkably hardy and takes 15 years to produce from seed, so be sure to purchase a tree that’s several years old. Its nuts are ready to harvest by mid-fall — plant at least two trees for best nut production.

More compact walnut varieties are a better fit for most gardens. Stark® Champion™, is an award winner that bears loads of nuts in six to seven years after planting and has thin-shelled nuts of the highest quality that ripen in mid-fall. It is also more compact, reaching a final height of 30 to 40 feet. Plant it with the pollenizer ‘Lake English’, an even earlier-to-bear (four to five years) tree of the same height that is a little less productive.

Pecan

Pecans are the finest native American nuts and the hardwood trees are beautiful.

Pecans (Carya illinoinensis) are the finest native American nuts. The tall hardwood trees exist across the southeastern United States, reach 65 to 130 feet, and are hardy up to Zone 6. The elegant trees have a broad but upright canopy. Wild trees look good and have reliable nut production, but quality can be variable, so plant a good cultivated variety. Pecans have inconspicuous spring flowers. Nuts are ready to harvest by mid-fall. Pecans are self-pollinating but yield better with cross-pollination.

Commercial pecan groves exist across the southern US.

Starking® Hardy Giant™ is remarkably hardy (to Zone 5) and has extra large, thin-shelled nuts for easy cracking. The equally good producer Stark® Surecrop™ is a good cross-pollinator and an exceptionally attractive tree for landscape use.

Cultivation and Harvest

Cracking nuts by hand is cumbersome, but nut shellers are available to make the task easier.

Overall, nut trees require soil to enable deep root growth and full sun for top-notch nut production. At planting time, help trees get the best possible start by amending their soil with Black Gold Garden Soil and peat moss. For a detailed tree-planting step-by-stem, read our article How and When to Plant Trees.

If you purchase a nursery-grown nut tree, it will be potted, and several feet tall, but catalog-purchased trees are typically 0.5 to 3 feet tall. So, if you want a more vigorous, faster-to-produce tree from the getgo, see if any nurseries in your area sell nut trees.

Fall harvest is very time consuming if you harvest by hand. Nut rakes or harvesters are worth the investment if your trees are highly productive. They make harvest a snap.

Shelling is also a chore, so consider getting a hand-crank sheller that will do the job more quickly. That way you can roast your nuts in quantity faster.

Nuts are nutritious and expensive, so if you enjoy them, it’s worth investing in a few of your favorite trees. These long-lived, hardwood trees will also add charm and elegance to your landscape for true edible landscaping.

Top 10 Best Tasting Winter Squash

Do you love delicious pumpkins and winter squash for pies, muffins, cakes, and soups? Then try growing some of these extra tasty squashes in your garden. All are easy to grow and sure to satisfy your tastebuds.

Click here to view the step-by-step pdf

How Should I Overwinter Gladiolus in Southern Florida?

“We live in Miami and planted gladiolus bulbs this spring. They bloomed beautifully! How are we supposed to cut them, so they bloom next spring? Should we dig them up or just cut the leaves?” Question from Brenda of Miami Florida

Answer: Gladiolus hybrids will thrive year-round as perennials in your Miami garden (USDA Hardiness Zone 10), so they don’t need to be dug up in fall. Cut back the foliage as it starts to turn yellow. The plants will experience some dormancy before putting forth new foliage and then flowers.

Gladiolus species are native to Africa, Southern Europe, the Middle East, and Asia and garden hybrids are mixes of quite a few species from these areas. Where native, gladiolus undergo either a cold-season or dry-season dormant period. Because you have very little seasonal cold, the main thing that will kill your glads is excessive soil moisture during dormancy. So, make sure that their soil is fast draining and very porous. Plant them in light soil that is raised and well amended with organic matter, such as Black Gold Peat Moss. You may also want to amend further with a mineral additive, such as Gran-I-Grit or even sand, to further increase drainage. Over time, happy gladiolus can naturalize in southern gardens.

Some of my favorite glads are heirlooms with old-fashioned charm (click here for a good source). I also love the elegant Byzantine gladiolus (Gladiolus communis ssp. byzantinus), which is a species bearing long-blooming spires of purple-red summer flowers.

I hope that this information helps!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Why Aren’t My Heirloom Tomatoes Producing Fruit?

“My heirloom tomato plant is growing beautifully. However, it has not one tomato on it, while another bush, under same growing conditions, is more prolific though it still does not have ample tomatoes. Is there something I am doing/not doing correctly? During the long summer days the beds do get over 6 hours of sun a day, as the days are getting shorter they are down to about 51/2 right now. I use no chemical pesticides.  I only have two tomato plants and check them daily.” Question of Ann Marie of Holbrook, New York

Answer: Several things can keep otherwise healthy looking tomato plants from producing ample good fruit. These are 1)  imbalanced nutrition and 2) too little sunlight. Tomatoes are heavy feeders that need high nutrition, regular watering, and at least eight hours of direct sunlight for good fruit production. All of these are necessities.

Fertilizer is easy. Choose a fertilizer formulated for tomatoes and feed your plants regularly, as recommended on the package. Adding additional bone meal is also helpful in reducing the chance of blossom end rot, a common nutrient deficiency of tomatoes.

Sunlight may not be as easy to provide, depending on your yard, but eight or more hours are needed for fruit-producing vegetables, like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and squash. More is even better. I plant my veggies where they can get all-day sun for maximum output.

If you plant only a couple of tomatoes, try growing them in large containers and moving them to a sunnier part of the yard. This will enable to provide them with more sun and better control their soil, nutrients, and water. Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix is a great potting mix choice. Please watch the video below to learn more about how to grow great tomatoes in containers.

I hope that these growing tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Where Can I Buy Black Gold Soil With No Carriers Nearby?

“I’d like to try your soil for indoor growing. What would be the cheapest way to go? I’d have to order online and have it shipped. Not sure if it would be worth the shipping, but I do like organic soil. Nowhere close (that I can find) has anything even close to yours.” Question from Joseph of Oceana, West Virginia 

Answer: Always check our Store Finder first to see if there is a store near you that carries our products, and be sure to call stores in advance to make sure that they have not run out for the season. I checked our locator and found two stores near you. Both are close.

Gardeners that live too far from garden centers or hardware stores that carry our products can purchase them online via several sources. Several big-box stores carry our products online, such as Ace Hardware and Walmart. You can also find well-rated vendors that sell our products on Amazon.

I hope that these answers are helpful!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What is Causing Leaf Spot and Drop On My Desert Roses?

“My desert roses are dropping their leaves and they have brown to blackish spots on them.  I have attached an image.”  Question from Charles of Sebastian, Florida

Answer: The yellowing and black blotching and spotting on your desert rose (Adenium obesum) leaves is likely caused by the fungal disease, anthracnose leaf spot (Colletotrichum spp.). Yellowing of the leaves is caused in the early stages, and then they develop black spots and splotches and fall off.

These true desert plants thrive in dry heat and cannot take high moisture and high humidity without eventually succumbing to fungal diseases. I recommend placing them away from any place where they will be subjected to rain and high humidity. An indoor sunroom or south-facing window would be ideal. Bottom water the plants sparingly (to keep water off of the leaves) and hope that this will tackle your leaf spot. In very severe cases, this disease can cause plants to die. Also, be sure to water these plant very little to none in winter to mimic the dry winter period in their native Africa and Arabia. Consider reading this other Ask a Garden Expert Inquiry: What is the Best Soil for Desert Rose?

I also encourage you to watch the video below. It covers desert rose. (Many of the other flowers will also grow well in Florida.)

Happy Gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Can I Plant a Vegetable Garden In Partial Shade?

“Please tell me if a slightly shaded location is suitable for a veg garden. It is partially shaded for most of the day. There’s a creek running behind my yard’s fence where the bed will be. And please guide me to the best articles for starting a garden in my area. Should I soak this hard soil and mix it with (something?)or just put(something?)on the surface. How large to feed one or 2 vegetarians and juicing people?” Question from Jane from Camp Verde, Arizona

Answer: A few vegetables will tolerate partial shade but most will not. Partial-shade tolerant veggies include greens, such as lettuce, arugula, kale, and some herbs, such as lemon balm and sweet woodruff.

In general, you need a bare minimum of 6 hours of strong direct sunlight when growing most other vegetables, especially tomatoes, peppers, squash, corn and others that need lots of sun to produce. More sun is always better. Clearing away some of your larger tree branches might help.

Raise Your Gardens

As far as planting near a lowland creek bed, you probably have to worry about seasonal flooding. If this is ever a problem, consider planting in high raised beds. Trough gardens are also a good option.

Or, you can tackle both your sun and possible flooding problem and grow vegetables in large containers that can be moved into more sunny, upland spots in your yard.

Both raised garden types will prove to be useful for growing deep rooting vegetables. (Click here to learn more about successful vegetable container gardening.)

Feed Your Soil

Almost all vegetables require rich, fertile soil to grow to their fullest. I always recommend mixing native soil with Black Gold Amendments when preparing the soil for raised beds. I also recommend adding irrigation when vegetable gardening out West. Plan to water heavily.

Gardening For Two

Two 4-foot x 6-foot beds should be a good start for just two people. Here are four articles I recommend you read before starting your new raised beds.

How Should I Prepare My Raised Bed? 

High Desert Vegetable Gardening

The Dos and Don’ts of Hand Watering

What Are the Best Raised Bed Plants for High Desert Gardens?

Contact Your Local Extension Agent

For further information about vegetable gardening in your area contact The University of Arizona’s Cooperative Extension service. They are there to help gardeners like you grow better.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What Are Good Hardy Orchids For Southern California Gardens?

“I grow Bletilla orchids in my Southern California garden. Do you know of others that don’t need cold? I’m interested in having some more hardy orchids in the ground outside.” Question from Sandra of Thousand Oaks, California

Answer: When thinking of good hardy, terrestrial (ground) orchids for your Southern California garden, seek out area nurseries that offer greenhouse-grown local native orchids or adaptable non-native orchids. You are fortunate to have a fantastic resource in your area, the Santa Barbara Orchid Estate. They recommend several potted and ground orchids for outdoor growing in the Santa Barbara, California and the surrounding area. (Click here to view their outdoor orchid list for beginners.)

They recommend Stenoglottis species and hybrids for in-ground growing where you live. Stenoglottis is an African orchid genus with many types able to withstand your climate. The vigorous, hot-pink hybrid Stenoglottis ‘Venus Jamboree’ is very pretty and comes highly recommended. Give it filtered light and soil with good moisture during the growing season (allow plants to dry between watering during the winter months). You can cultivate them as potted or in-ground plants. Either way, I recommend fortifying their soil with Black Gold Just Coir to increase water-holding potential. (Click here to read about some of my favorite hardy terrestrial orchids. If you can grow Bletilla, you may also be able to grow some of these as well.)

I hope that this information helps!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Should I Prepare The Base of My Raised Bed?

“In a raised bed application, what should I use first before adding soil to prep the bed to reduce weeds and grass?” Question from Marlene or Stuart, Florida

Answer: There are several ways to stop perennial weeds from rising from the base of a new raised bed. You can either do the obvious– roll up your sleeves and completely desod and remove all weeds from the base of the bed–or you can place an organic cover at the base that will break down over time. If you choose to desod, you may also consider double digging below your beds to encourage deep rooting. (Click here to learn more about double digging.)

Raised Bed Organic Covers

The three organic covers that I recommend include either a layer of plain cardboard, black-and-white newspaper, or biodegradable burlap garden cloth.  Any of these will work well if you provide full coverage. Place the cover of your choice at the base of the beds to stop weed growth, and then add enriched, raised-bed soil. 

Raised Bed Soil Preparation

Raised bed soil should contain a mix of your own topsoil amended with lots of organic matter. Black Gold Garden Compost Blend, Black Gold Earthworm Castings, and an organic soilless potting mix, such as Black Gold Natural and Organic Potting Mix, are all good choices. Soil-to-amendment ratios depend on topsoil quality; good topsoil requires fewer amendments. In general, mix two parts topsoil to one part compost and one part soilless potting mix or earthworm castings. If drought is a problem in your area, add a 2- to 3-inch layer of compost along the soil surface to reduce surface water loss. I also recommend that you fortify your soil with a quality vegetable fertilizer. 

To stop further weed encroachment, remove the grass from around your raised beds. Surrounding the beds with walkways covered with pebbles or organic mulches will look great and really help with weeds! (Click here to learn more about mulch solutions.)

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Do Livestock Troughs Make Good Raised Beds?

“Do livestock watering troughs make good vegetable garden raised beds?” Question from Sandy of Chester, Virginia

Answer: Yes! Livestock troughs make excellent raised beds. Choose deeper troughs. Those that are 2-feet deep are best. More depth helps them better support larger and deeper rooting vegetables.

The key is making sure that they have good bottom drainage, so be sure to drill/punch plenty of holes at the base to ensure water drains all the way through. You will need an inch or half inch hole every foot or so. Smaller holes are likely to get plugged up.  (Look for metal-cutting drill attachments.)

For best veggie production, fill your trough beds with an excellent growing mix and fortify it with fertilizer formulated for vegetable growing. Our compost blend and natural and organic potting mix are great for raised beds! I also recommend that you plant compact vegetables ideal for container growing. (Click here to learn more about the best miniature vegetables for containers.)
Happy gardening!
Jessie Keith
Black Gold Horticulturist