“Is it possible to grow any vegetables indoors in a sunny room with a grow light? I live in NE PA and we have long cold winters. I would love to grow veggies over the winter. I have a room that I think would work.” Question from Melanie or Susquehanna, Pennsylvania
Answer: What a nice space! You can certainly grow container vegetables in your bright, sunny room. It offers so much natural sunlight that only some supplemental grow lights will be needed, if any. Vegetables will grow best in the sunniest window. A south-facing exposure is optimal.
Supplemental light may only be needed if you grow fruiting vegetables that need extra sunlight, like tomatoes and peppers. Greens and herbs should not need supplemental light; your bright windows and skylights should be enough. As far as grow light options, if you need to supplement choose a tall, adjustable grow light (click here for an example). (Click here for more information about different grow light types and options.)
From there, I recommend that you watch the video and read the article below. They should give you all the details that you need to grow vegetables inside.
“I live in northern California where we had a lot of fires and smoke. The sky was thick with smoke for quite a few days. How will this impact my flowers?” Question from Jenna of Magalia, California
Answer: What a crazy season it has been! I have watched several of my western gardening friends struggle through the impacts of wildfires. Thankfully, many have been spared the damage caused by fire, but none are spared the ill effects of ash and smoke, which does impact plants in several ways.
Wildfire Smoke and Ash Impacts on Gardens
Ash Effects: Ash can be very destructive, but it also has the potential to benefit plants. On the downside, hot ash will burn foliage. If fine and dense, it can cover foliage and keep plants from photosynthesizing as well. Rinsing it off will stop this problem. On the flipside, ash can raise soil pH, add extra minerals to the soil, and increase microbial activity and plant growth. So, it’s not all bad.
Smoke Effects on Air Quality: Smoke increases carbon dioxide levels, which actually benefits plants. Plants use CO2 to convert sun to energy and release oxygen.
Smoke Effects on Light Quality: Smoke lowers light levels, which can be harmful to plants growing under severe smoky conditions for extended periods of time. There is really nothing gardens can do but wait until the smoke passes.
Smoke is also drying, so be sure to irrigate your plants during these times, if you can.
I wish you the best and hope the fires stop soon. A moist, cool winter would certainly be a blessing.
Here in the Pacific Northwest, we often get some wonderfully warm and sunny days in late September and early October. This year is no exception. Now that most of the smoke from the forest fires has cleared from much of the Willamette Valley, our air is clean once again, and we can see blue sky. We are happy, and so are our plants and gardens.
Enjoy the Last Blooms of the Season
My pots of Salvia Rockin’® Fuchsia are still looking beautiful. (Image by Mike Darcy)
When we have sunny days in October, it forces me to make some decisions regarding my garden and some of these decisions are difficult to make. Many of my containers of blooming annuals are still bursting with color. The fuchsias have not looked better and the flowers on the Salvia just keep going. I am well aware that these blooms will not last much longer but I want to enjoy them as long as I can. Some, like fuchsias, can be brought indoors and tended as house plants through winter (click here to learn how to clean plants before bringing them inside). But, I usually let the frost take them and simply replant in spring, but sometimes I bring a special tender perennial or two inside.
Potting up some chrysanthemums, pansies, and flowering kale can also lighten the impact of losing garden flowers. Add a few decorative gourds and pumpkins and the display will be complete. (Click here for more fall container gardening tips.)
Clean Up
Clean up your lawn, edge beds, and plant tidy fall pansies. (Don’t be afraid to leave a few leaves in beds.)
In preparation for winter, now is a good time to begin some light pruning and general fall cleanup. As perennials and this year’s annuals die back, prune them or pull them. Leave up any ornamental grasses and perennial plants with attractive seedheads, but it generally looks best to take everything else back. You can leave some leaves in beds to support overwintering native bees and butterflies. Once your beds are clean, it always looks nice to edge for tidy and attractive gardens all winter. (Click here to watch a how-to video about edging.)
Compost
Chopped leaves and grass clippings make some of the finest compost to add to your other essential garden amendments, like peat moss.
Deciduous trees will soon be losing their leaves, and if you are not composting some of this potentially rich source of organic matter, this is a good time to start. Compost kits and bins are readily available at local garden centers, and they do not need to be fancy. I prefer those with no enclosed bottom. You will learn by experience which plant material breaks down quickly and which does not. I have found that large maple leaves, of which we have an abundance of, break down relatively quickly. Pre-chopping the leaves also helps. Adding grass clippings, that have not been treated with a weed and feed, are a good addition to get the pile heated up to begin the breakdown process. Keep the pile moist, turn it every month or two and add a little granular nitrogen fertilizer to hasten the composting process, if it is moving slowly. I stay away from conifer needles, like fir, spruce, and pines, as well as rhododendron leaves and the leaves from the evergreen magnolia because the decomposition process is too lengthy.
Plant Bulbs
Plant layered bulb pots now for a big spring show.
This is the time to plant fall bulbs, and the earlier they are purchased, the better the selection. Many of these bulbs, such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocus, can be planted in more than the garden. They also make excellent container plants for spring color on a deck or patio. I like to layer them in pots for maximum effect. (Click here to learn how to make layered bulb pots.) Most bulbs like a soil environment that has an ample supply of compost, so I like to add Black Gold Garden Compost Blend and mix it into the existing soil. When I am planting bulbs in pots, I use Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix in addition to adding a fertilizer formulated for bulbs.
Plant Garlic
Garlic is an easy crop that must be planted in fall for summer harvest. One clove will quickly develop into a full head.
October is also an ideal month to plant garlic. It needs winter cold to bulb up, so if planted now, it will be ready to harvest next summer. Most garden centers have several different varieties, from more tender softneck types to hardy longneck types, and all are easy to grow. Plant garlic in a sunny location with well-drained, fertile soil. (Click here to learn everything that you need to know to grow garlic.)
Plant Hardy Shrubs
Fall is an excellent time to plant hardy shrubs in the landscape.
It is a good time to plant hardy shrubs while the soil is still warm. Planting them now will help them settle and set roots in their new location through winter. This will give them a head start on growing in the spring. Dig in Black Gold Garden Compost Blend around the root zone. If the root ball of the shrub is tightly matted with entangled roots, gently break it apart to encourage the roots to grow into their new environment. It also helps to apply a starter/transplant fertilizer.
Dig and Store Dahlias, Cannas, Gladiolus, and other Tender Bulbs
Trimmed and forked up dahlia clumps dry on the porch before being cleaned and stored for winter.
If you are in an area that has hard freezes in the winter, it would be wise to dig dahlias, cannas, gladiolus, and other tender bulbs, and store them in a protected location through winter. Dig dahlias after their tops wilt following the first light frost. Cut the tops back, dig the bulbs, and store them in an aerated plastic bin filled with peat moss. A cool, dark place is best for storage. (Editor’s Note: When digging tubers, keep then intact and be careful not to damage their necks as this is where next year’s buds will appear. Gently clean and dry the tubers before storing them. Pack in a dry peat/vermiculite mix and store in a cool, dry basement, garage or root cellar no colder than 40 degrees Fahrenheit.)
In many areas of the Willamette Valley, where I live, we do not have to dig them up. Our winters are generally mild enough; thick mulch is often sufficient. However, if you have a particular favorite dahlia or canna, be on the safe side and dig it.
Plant a Cover Crop
Seedlings of winter rye can be tilled under once the snow has passed.
Planting a cover crop over a summer vegetable garden can provide nutrients and organic matter for the next spring season. Cover crop mixes are now available and the sooner they are planted the better. Some, like alfalfa, naturally add nitrogen to the soil and have deep roots that help break up clay soils. Winter wheat, rye and, other grain covers protect your beds from winter weeds. All naturally add organic matter to the soil when tilled under in spring.
Usually, our weather is such that on most days we can continue to enjoy our garden, as we should. Enjoy your fall!
“What is the best practice to ensure a window-sill cilantro plant will thrive? I have a green thumb and can grow or rehab practically any plant/flower/herb/garden. However, each time I’ve purchased a cilantro plant, it wilts after a few months. I only water when dry. Thank you!” Question from Ann of Raleigh, North Carolina
Answer: Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is a short-lived annual herb that grows best in full sun and cooler temperatures between 65–70°F. That’s why it dies away after a few months after flowering. It’s just what annuals do. My recommendation is to start it from seed in pots along a sunny windowsill and keep replanting as needed.
Growing Cilantro from Seed
Cilantro seeds germinate well in Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix. Sow the seeds, cover them lightly with 1/8 of an inch of soil, and water them thoroughly. Then keep the seeds lightly moist by spritzing them with water. Expect them to sprout in a week to ten days. Then keep the soil just moist by watering from the bottom. It also helps to apply an application of water-soluble fertilizer weekly after they begin to grow. Typically, you can start trimming the leaves for cooking after a few more weeks. Microgreens can be harvested earlier.
Cilantro remains leafy for only a couple of months before it starts to send up stems of white, lacy flowers. If you let it flower and set seed, you can harvest and dry the coriander seeds for pickling and cooking. If you prefer cilantro, then pull the plants as they flower, and plant seeds anew. You might even maintain a couple of pots and plant them several weeks apart to ensure you have a constant flow of cilantro.
Some cilantro varieties stay leafy longer than others. ‘Calypso‘ is one of these. It is generally ready to harvest 50 days after planting.
Bolivian Begonia is an excellent container garden flower that can be overwintered indoors. (Image by Jessie Keith)
“I rent my house but I have always wanted to grow a flower garden. What’s the best way to grow flowers in containers that are movable and what kind of flowers grow best in containers?” Question from Jenna of Magalia, California
Answer: Container gardening is certainly the best option for renters. If you really want to create a movable garden, start with quality pots that will be easy to transport in a move. Choose large containers for vegetables or multiple flowers. The larger the pot, the more plants you can grow in it. Thick, glazed ceramic containers resist weathering and retain water well.
I determined that you have warm, dry, mostly clear summers and cold, wet, partly cloudy winters with temperatures that range from 33°F to 88°F–rarely dipping below 25°F or above 96°F. Considering your drier summers and cool, wet winters, here are five drought-tolerant container perennials that should grow well for you in pots.
Santa Cruz Sunset Bolivian Begonia: Grow this glowing begonia in partial sun to shade for best results. Bring this tender perennial indoors for winter.
Coronado Hummingbird Mint: Hardy hummingbird mint produces loads of bright orange flowers that hummingbirds cannot resist.
Arizona Apricot Blanket Flower (Gaillardia aristata Arizona Apricot): Bright orange and yellow flowers are produced on this spreading, pretty desert bloomer.
Sweet Romance®Lavender (or any other lavender): Lavenders look pretty, smell great, and look beautiful in containers.
Annie’s Annuals, which is based in Richmond, California is one of the coolest mailorder flower nurseries around, and they sell loads of flowers suited to your climate. I recommend visiting to get ideas.
Planting Flower Containers
Choose plants that you like and pair them according to color, size, height, and texture. A good potting mix for drier climates is Black Gold Waterhold Cocoblend, which has excellent porosity, water-holding ability, and is OMRI Listed for organic gardening. Keep in mind, containers need regular water, even if you plant drought-tolerant plants, so plan to water your containers daily or once every couple of days. Feed them with plant food for flowers, such as Proven Winners® Premium Water Soluble Plant Food for Flowering Plants. Once hard cold hits, trim back any dead or dying stems to keep your pots tidy through winter.
How Do I Organically Feed My Vegetable Garden Soil for Fall?
“I’m getting ready to prep my raised beds for the fall crop. What is best to amend the soil with since I do not use chemical fertilizers?” Question from Randal of Chiply, Florida.
Answer: There are lots of things that you can do to feed your soil for fall and winter crops. Here are some of easy options.
Feed Your Soil
Your garden is as good as its soil. For success, liberally feed it with organic matter, such as Black Gold Earthworm Castings, Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss, and Garden Compost Blend, especially if your soil is rich in clay or sandy. Add at least 3 inches of the amendment to the soil surface, and till it to a depth of at least 8 inches. Tilling in amendments will increase water-holding capacity and aeration for better root growth. Use the amendment application formula below to determine the amount you will need.
Amendment Application Formula
([area to cover] ft2 x [depth in inches desired] x 0.0031 = ___ yd3).
Example: If you wanted to cover a 20 square foot area with 2 inches of compost, the result would be: 20 ft2 x 2 inches of compost x 0.0031 = 2.48 yd3.
Vegetables perform better with regular fertilization, especially heavy feeders like tomatoes. In fact, most veggies will deplete the soil of nutrients over time, so replenishment is necessary. There are many organic vegetable fertilizers on the market. Alfalfa, blood, bone, feather, fish, kelp, and shrimp meals are all common natural components of non-chemical fertilizers. Earthworm castings are also a good source of nitrogen and beneficial microbes. Adding mycorrhizae to the soil is also useful because it helps plants take up water and nutrients better. Black Gold Natural & Organic Ultra Coir is another of our organic-rich amendments that also contains our proprietary blend of endomycorrhizae. We recommend that you research top-rated organic fertilizers to find the best for your needs.
Rotate Your Crops with Legumes
Vegetables, especially tomatoes, should be rotated on a three-year cycle–tomato one year and other vegetables the next two years. Legumes, like beans and peas, are excellent rotation crops because they naturally fortify soils with nitrogen. For more rotation tips, I encourage you to read Spring to Fall Vegetable Rotation: Planting for Non-stop Garden Produce. It will provide all of the information you need to effectively rotate your crops, whether container- or garden-grown.
I hope that all of this information helps! We have many more articles about gardening in Florida, click here to view them.
Making your own herbal infusions in oils and vinegar is a great way to preserve herb flavors from your garden. Since comparable store-bought bottles can be pricey, you’ll save money and have some delicious artisanal gifts to give to friends and family.
Harvesting and Drying Herbs
Bundles of rosemary, lavender, sage, pineapple mint, and thyme are easy to dry and retail their flavor.
Some herbs can be infused dry; others should be infused fresh. Dill, oregano, thyme, rosemary, and sage are all suited for dry infusion. Basil, cilantro, chili, and chives have the most flavor when infused fresh.
Harvest herbs from your garden early in the morning using clean, sharp scissors or pruners. If you plan to use fresh herbs, start your infusion immediately after cleaning the stems. To prepare dry herbs, hang them upside down in bundles or lay them in a single layer on trays in a dark, cool area. (Click here for some other drying methods.)
Which Herbs to Infuse
Choose herbs that are fresh from the garden in pleasing combinations that suit your taste.
The herbs you choose are entirely up to you! What are you growing? What’s freshest in the garden and best for your flavor palate? You can make single herb infusions, like basil oil or rosemary vinegar, or you can blend flavors together, like citrus zest, chili, and thyme. Choose a few options, and you’ll have plenty of ways to add spice to your kitchen creations.
Oil Infusion Methods
The stovetop method is one way to infuse herbal oil. A double boiler or saucepan set on low heat also work. Cilantro, garlic, rosemary, and thyme are in this infusion.
Infusing the flavors of herbs in oil is most effective when the oil is warmed. This can be done on the stovetop, in the sun, or a Crockpot. The infused oils will be ready in just a few hours this way. You can also place herbs in oil for a cold infusion as long as you have the time to wait for six weeks to get your finished herbal oil.
Safety notes: When infusing herbs into oil, be sure to use dried herbs for the stovetop and sun-infused methods. Jars and bottles must also be dry and sterile. (Click here to learn how to sterilize jars and bottles.) Clean, dry, chopped or processed fresh herbs can be used for the slow-cooker method, as long as the oil is heated to a temperature just over 140 degrees F, which is hot enough to kill bacteria.
Stovetop Oil Infusion
Slowly heat the oil and herbs in a double boiler. Pack as many herbs as possible into the boiler top. Then, pour the oil over them–enough to fill your jars or bottles. Pour an inch of water into the bottom of the double boiler. Heat the double boiler on medium-high for a few minutes. Reduce the heat to low for a few hours until the oil becomes aromatic. If you do not have a double boiler, you can use a saucepan set on the lowest heat setting.
Sun Oil Infusion
Pack herbs into a large mason jar and pour oil over them, covering the herbs completely. Screw the top onto the jar, and leave it out in the sun for up to eight hours. To avoid overheating the herbs and eliminating some of their benefits, don’t use this infusion process during the height of summer. This method works best during the warm parts of late spring and early fall.
Slow Cooker Oil Infusion
Place the dried herbs into the Crockpot. Cover them with oil. Heat on low (190 degrees F) for a few hours or until the oil becomes fragrant. To create multiple oils at the same time, place the herbs in mason jars, cover with oil, and add a lid to each jar. Fill the Crockpot with a couple of inches of water and heat.
Editor’s note: If using fresh herbs, such as basil, start with a large bunch–maybe six big stems. Clean the stems and pat them dry. Blanche them in boiling water for 5-10 seconds, place them on a towel and lightly pat them dry, then put them in a food processor with a pinch of salt and puree them. Add the puree to a clean 16 oz. canning jar, fill with light olive oil, and cover with a lid. Fill the Crockpot with a couple of inches of water, place the jar in the water, and heat for a couple of hours. Finally, place three layers of cheesecloth over a bowl, pour the mixture through, and squeeze out all of the basil oil. Pour the oil in a fresh, clean jar and store it in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks. Another option is to store it in the freezer in a well-sealed plastic freezer container until use. A lidded silicon ice cube tray also makes a good container.
Cold Infusion
Pack dry herbs into a jar, lightly compacting them until filled to the top. Pour olive, canola, or grapeseed oil over them, gently pressing them down with a spoon to release some of the air bubbles. Completely cover the herbs with oil. Set the jar in a cold, dark room for four to six weeks.
Vinegar Infusion Methods
Apple cider vinegar makes lively herbal infusions.
The method you use to infuse vinegar depends on whether you are using herbs alone or adding fruit. In either case, the herbs do not need to be dried first. Pick fresh, clean herbs from the garden, and add them to the vinegar of your choice. Keep in mind that better quality vinegar will result in a better final product. White wine, apple cider, and coconut vinegars are lively when infused. If you have a sweet tooth, white balsamic is good for fruity infusions.
Herb and Fruit Vinegars
Herbs such as basil, lemon balm, and mint can make refreshing vinegars.
If you’re infusing vinegar with both herbs and fruit, such as strawberries, choose fruit that is ripe and free of blemishes. Wash it and cut off any stems. Harvest and wash fresh herbs. Bruise them with the back of a knife to release their scent and taste. Pack the fruit and herbs together into a jar. Cover them with vinegar and secure the top of the jar. Place it in a cool, dark room for ten days. Strain the solids out of the vinegar. Stire it in the fridge for up to a month.
Pack washed and bruised herbs into a jar. Cover them completely with vinegar and secure the top. Place it in a cool, dark room for about two weeks. Strain the herbs out of the vinegar. Store the finished vinegar in the fridge.
Everyone who loves to grow their own food should grow their own blueberries. Blueberries are ideal for edible landscaping. They grow well in-ground or in containers. They’re bushy, attractive, and their leaves turn brilliant shades of orange, purple, and red in fall. Before adding them to your yard or garden, it’s good to know what types are available. You will be glad that you learned how to grow your own blueberries.
Blueberry Varieties Listed
Highbush Blueberries: ‘Blue Ray’ has extra-large-fruits early to mid-season, ‘Duke’ is high-yielding with upright shrubs, and ‘Elliott’ is a good late-producer.
Rabbiteye Blueberries: ‘Tifblue’ has large berries midseason and ‘Brightwell’ produces large clusters early to midseason.
Southern Highbush Blueberries: large-fruited ‘Cape Fear’, robust ‘Sharpblue’, and upright ‘Legacy’, which has very large, tasty fruits.
Designer Blueberries: The boxwood-like Blueberry Glaze® and cute, round Jellybean® have delicious fruit, tidy habits, and bright fall color (from Bushel & Berry).
Create an easy fairy garden filled with tender succulents that will look great through summer and winter. We used a bowl-shaped planter filled with Black Gold Cactus Mix and lots of beautiful succulents from Mountain Crest Gardens. Product links are below.
