Author: Mike Darcy

Mike lives and gardens in a suburb of Portland, Oregon where he has resided since 1969. He grew in up Tucson, Arizona where he worked at a small retail nursery during his high school and college years. He received his formal education at the University of Arizona where he was awarded a Bachelor of Science Degree in Horticulture, and though he values his formal education, he values his field-experience more. It is hard to beat the ‘hands on’ experience of actually gardening, visiting gardens, and sharing information with other gardeners. Mike has been involved with gardening communications throughout his adult life. In addition to garden writing, he has done television gardening shows in Portland, and for over 30 years he hosted a Saturday radio talk show in Portland. Now he writes, speaks, gardens and continues to share his love of gardening. To be connected to the gardening industry is a bonus in life for Mike. He has found gardeners to be among the friendliest and most caring, generous people. Consequently, many of his friends he has met through gardening.

Favorite Oregon Grapes for Landscape and Garden

A well-established Oregon grape looks spectacular in full fruit.

It was not too many years ago that gardeners often thought of Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium, syn. Berberis aquifolium) as primarily a woodland plant that did not belong in the ornamental garden. This Pacific Northwest native, which is the state flower of Oregon, is a member of the barberry family. Whereas Oregon Grape does not have spines like barberry, the plants do have spiny leaves–one of the reasons home gardeners avoided them. But, times change, as do trends, whether with regard to plants, fashion, or whatever the commodity. As for mahonia, there has been a resurgence of it in gardens.

Mahonia Landscape Traits

Brilliant bursts of yellow flowers are the crowning glory or Oregon holly in spring. (Image by Mike Darcy)

Oregon grape’s evergreen leaves are deep green, compound (leaves with multiple leaflets), and sometimes turn red or bronzy shades in winter. The common name refers to the attractive clusters of grape-like blue berries that appear in the fall. While these berries are edible, they are not particularly tasty when eaten directly off the plant, but they are quite good in jams and jellies. They are also an excellent food source for wild birds.

Attractive flowers are another attribute that makes Oregon grape a desirable garden plant. Most forms have brilliant yellow flowers borne in rounded, dense, spiky clusters that provide a very bright spot of color in the garden. In the Pacific Northwest, these bloom in late winter. In other areas of the country with colder winters, they tend to bloom in spring. On the West Coast, the flowers are a valuable source of nectar for hummingbirds as well as bees.

Once established, Oregon grapes require little care and minimal supplemental water. Protect the shrubs from bright sunlight, whether in summer or winter, to prevent leaf sunscald. While I have never heard of them being referred to as invasive, they do spread by underground stems, and in some states where they are not native, they have naturalized into the wild.

Mahonia Varieties

The variety ‘Soft Caress’ has soft, palm-like foliage.

Different species and new cultivars on the market have different heights and textures, giving gardeners new design options. When visiting a garden center, you may be surprised by the many cultivars available. Those living in the Pacific Northwest have even more varieties from which to choose. Our many specialty nurseries carry species and cultivars that are not always easy to find elsewhere. Regarding the selections mentioned below, I have tried to maintain a list of plants readily available at local garden centers across the country.

Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium, USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8) is an evergreen woodland shrub found in coniferous forests and open woodlands from British Columbia down to northern California, primarily on the western side of the Cascade Mountains. Dark, evergreen leaves, which are spiny and holly-like, look beautiful year-round. The dense, bushy shrub can reach 6-12 feet in height. Clusters of tiny, bell-shaped flowers of bright yellow flower from late winter to spring. Bluish berries mature by fall and may persist into winter.

Charity Oregon grape (Mahonia x media ‘Charity’, Zones 6-9) is a hybrid that has become very popular with gardeners due to its more delicate evergreen leaves and extra-large, prolific sprays of yellow flowers. It is a tall plant, reaching 8-15 feet in height, so it needs plenty of space in the garden. It makes an excellent background plant in a shrub and perennial border.

Creeping Oregon grape (Mahonia repens, Zones 5-8) only reaches about 1-3 feet in height and makes a good woodland ground cover. It can take sun but also deep shade and is drought tolerant once established. It is native from the Pacific Northwest down to West Texas, so drought tolerance and bloom times vary. In the North, it tends to bloom in late winter, but further south if produces small, rounded, tight clusters of yellow flowers as late as early summer. Its deep green, holly-like foliage turns reddish hues in winter. It is an easy-care, low maintenance plant that is often overlooked as a ground cover.

Soft Caress Oregon grape (Mahonia ‘Soft Caress’, Zones 7-9) is a relatively new hybrid mahonia on the market, and, as the name implies, the almost palm-like, evergreen foliage is soft and thornless. The growth habit is such that it is compact enough to be planted in containers and also makes an excellent border plant. Its yellow flowers appear in late winter to early spring and dark blue fruits mature by fall. This mahonia needs extra shade and protection from high winds, so plant it in a sheltered spot away from the hot afternoon sun. It reaches a height of about 3 feet and requires little supplemental water once established. I have found that when gardeners are first introduced to ‘Soft Caress’, they are amazed to discover it is a mahonia.

Mahonia Care

The evergreen leaves of Oregon grape can turn shades of red and burgundy in the colder months.

All mahonias grow best in soils that are fertile, very well-drained, and slightly acidic. At planting time, fortify their soil with Black Gold Peat Moss, which is slightly acid and an excellent source of organic matter. Provide them with partial sun to shade for best growth, flowering, and fruit set. These are true forest shrubs that dislike harsh winds that will desiccate their foliage. All-day winter sunlight can also scorch the leaves, so plant them where they are shaded for at least part of the day.

Oregon grape was once relegated to native and woodland gardens but has now become a mainstream garden plant for many good reasons. It is easy to grow and has bright winter flowers that provide food for hummingbirds and bees at a time when few other plants are blooming. Moreover, once established, most forms require little supplemental water. Visit your local garden center to see its spectacular, leaves, berries, and flowers for yourself. You’ll want to buy one right away!

The blueish berries are edible when ripe but are better left to birds. (Image by Mike Darcy)

Overwintering Outdoor Ceramic Containers

With 150+ potted containers throughout my garden, it is important that I overwinter them well. Living on the relatively mild western slope of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, our winters do not compare with those in colder parts of the country, but we do get freezing temperatures. Almost every winter, we will have some nights when the temperatures dip into the low 20’s and sometimes into the high teens. While we also have our fair share of rain during the winter months, we often get a few days of snow and ice, which can wreak havoc on containers.

Protecting Wintering Containers

This snow-covered Italian Terracotta flower pot will likely weather through the winter.

Plants in containers are exposed to the elements more than those in the ground. Pots do not offer roots as much insulation or protection, but each is different in its protection and durability, whether glazed ceramic, concrete, plastic, Terracotta, or stone. (In this article, we will cover ceramic pots, which are what I use.) Just like the hot summer sun can quickly dry soil in a container, especially with Terracotta pots, cold temperatures, and winter wind can freeze the soil. The ice expands, and as it does, it often has enough force to crack certain pots, especially if the soil is moist.

The question is, what ceramic containers endure winter cold without cracking? In our climate, it would be very unusual for a container not to have soil wet from the winter rain and then potentially freeze. So, having the right container is an important necessity.

Over the years, I have learned through trial and error what pots work. The conclusions that I have reached are not scientific but based on my own experience in dealing with different types of pottery from different places. Some behave poorly outdoors and are better reserved for indoor plantings.

Pots for Indoor Use

Mexican pottery is fantastically pretty but cracks easily outdoors in freezing winters.

First, bear in mind that some manufacturers add elements to their clay to make pots more winter hardy, and some don’t. Thickness and firing temperature can also help prevent cracking. Generally, I have found that Terracotta-based Mexican pottery, glazed or unglazed, will not survive a cold winter without cracking. Likewise, most pottery from China is variable, but the thin pots tend to crack. Some of the most beautiful pottery that I have seen is from Thailand, but it tends to be thin-walled and is poor for outdoor planting.

Thin-walled ceramic pots tend to crack while thicker-walled pots don’t.

We do have some pots from Thailand in our garden, though. These tend to have unique designs and colors and create much interest from visitors. We use Thai pots as pieces of garden art with nothing planted in them. There are holes in the bottom for the rain to drain through, so there is no concern about cracking.

If you choose to grow summer annuals in pots that are not reliably frost-proof, take out the soil when you remove the annuals. Or, if your containers are mobile, move them into a garage to protect them.

Pots for Outdoor Use

Thick-walled, high-fired Vietnamese pottery survives the winter very well for me.

Containers from Italy seem to go through our winters just fine, but those that consistently weather through without cracking are from Vietnam. In our area, the Vietnamese pots sold in local garden centers are thick-walled, highly glazed and fired, very heavy, and frost proof. I have some pots from Vietnam on our deck that we have had for 15 plus years, and they have never cracked. These pots are exposed to winter winds, rain, freezing; they have no protection from the elements.

Thick, high-fired Italian pottery also withstands winter cracking better.

Another important factor when a purchasing pot is getting the right pot for the right location. Check the selection of winter-hardy pots at your local garden center for colors, sizes, and styles with good thickness, high fire, and thick glaze. I have found that the right colorful containers scattered throughout the garden are permanent additions that also serve as garden art.

Microclimates play a role, too. Try to protect your outdoor pots through winter by placing them below overhangs or patios close to the house. Not only can this further help protect them from cracking, it helps the shrubs or perennials they hold.

Bold Grasses for the Fall Garden

*Pennisetum* ‘Jade Princess’ is a spectacular variety with huge, showy plumes.

With many summer-flowering annuals beginning to fade, autumn is the season when many ornamental grasses take center stage. I do not want to dismiss those ornamental grasses that look quite good in the garden during the summer, and some that look good all year round, but by careful selection, a gardener can pick certain grasses that are at their prime in the fall season. In my neighborhood, I see ornamental grasses being used much more frequently than in years past. Nowadays, there is such a large assortment available that I will highlight favorites that have consistently performed well in my Pacific Northwest garden.

Keep in mind that most grasses, these included, grow best in full sun and require well-drained soil with average to good fertility. Hardiness varies among the perennial species. Adding a little Canadian sphagnum peat moss at planting time is always welcome.

Ornamental Millet

An annual grass that I regularly see in garden centers is the bold purple ornamental millet (Pennisetum glaucum ‘Purple Majesty’), which reaches up to 4 feet. It provides purple foliage, which can be quite striking from summer into fall. If planted in a full sun location, the blades will be the darkest. Upright purple flower spikes appear above the foliage, usually in mid to late summer. More compact ‘Jade Princess’, which reaches 2-2.5 feet, is another exceptional variety with lush green blades and large, puffy purple-red spikes that curve at the tips. Ornamental millet spikes are often cut when fresh and dried for Halloween or Thanksgiving arrangements. If the seed heads are left on, they are an excellent source of food for wild birds.

Chinese Feather Reed Grass

If I had a favorite Chinese feather reed grass, Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gold Bar’ would be top on my list. It is an introduction by Joy Creek Nursery in Scappoose, Oregon as well as a Great Plant Picks selection. As the name indicates, ‘Gold Bar’ has golden, zebra-stripe bars that begin at the base of the green blades and continue to the tips. It is ideal for large containers or planted in a garden in need of striking foliage throughout the season. ‘Gold Bar’ is more compact and upright for feather reed grass, with a maximum height of 4-5 feet. It is also hardy, surviving in USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8. The foliage turns tawny brown in winter and has nice structure, so wait to cut it back to the ground in late winter.

Purple Moor Grass

For an easy-to-grow, small, clumping grass, variegated purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea subsp. caerulea ‘Variegata’, Zones 4-9) is an outstanding choice. The yellow and green variegated foliage grows 1-2 feet tall and works well as a border plant along a flower bed. In late summer and early fall, clusters of airy yellow to purple flower spikes appear about 2-3 feet above the clump. The purple flower spikes contrast well with the variegated foliage, and as they age, they turn yellow and look quite attractive into the autumn season. Cut the plant to the ground once the flower stems have faded. During the growing months, moor grass needs additional water when it is dry.

Tall Moor Grass

Another worthy garden grass of the same species is tall moor grass (Molinia caerulea subsp. arundinacea). This one has broader gray-green leaves that can form a clump about 3 feet tall with blooming stems up to 8 feet. One of its most popular, best forms is ‘Karl Foerster’ (to be distinguished from the more common feather reed-grass, ‘Karl Foerster (Calamagrostis × acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’), which has 2-3 foot leaves and feathery stems that can reach up to 7 feet. The form ‘Skyracer’ has plum-colored plumes that reach straight into the air. Tall moor grass survives in Zones 5-8.

Giant Feather Grass

Native to Spain and Portugal, the tall flower spikes of giant feather grass (Stipa gigantea) rise high above the foliage and can reach up to 6 feet in height from clumps that are 2-3 feet high. It is drought-resistant and hardy in Zones 6-10. Be sure to plant it where it can be appreciated as a specimen plant. It makes a very bold statement in a gravel garden. Airy stems of yellow flowers appear in summer, and a large plant in full bloom almost looks like a glistening cloud. It is a real attention-getter when in full bloom. Cut it to the ground in late fall or when the leaves begin to fade.

This listing presents a small sampling of some of the ornamental grasses that are available at local garden centers. If there is a particular public garden in your area that features perennial grasses, fall is an ideal time to visit to get an idea of what they look like at the end of summer in your area. Fall is also a good planting time.

Ginkgos Large and Small

In Portland, Oregon, Ginkgo biloba trees line the streets in an area called Park Blocks. These magnificent trees were planted years ago and today reach a height of perhaps 100 feet. The Ginkgo is an excellent choice for a large street tree when taking into consideration the ultimate growth expected. (Large tree lawns are a must.) They do not seem to be bothered by insects or diseases, are tolerant of air pollution and most soil conditions, and they provide shade in the summer and beautiful golden fall leaf color in the autumn.

Ginkgo History

An allee of ginkgos creates a spectacular fall display.

I have long been fascinated by these historic trees and marvel at their survival instincts. Ginkgo fossils exist dating to over 270 million years old. At one time they were thought to have grown worldwide, but presently, remnant populations were found to only exist in China and Japan. Throughout Asia, these trees were revered as fixtures in temple gardens and Buddhist monasteries.

Ginkgo trees are monoecious, a technical term meaning that separate trees have either just male or just female flowers. It may take a tree 20 years or more before the flowers develop. When purchasing a Ginkgo, select male plants, (grafted or grown from cuttings), because female trees produce messy, fleshy, ill-smelling fruit. In Asia, they use the fruits of the female trees for medicinal purposes, but they are not of value to most homeowners.

Ginkgo Size

Many ginkgo varieties have narrow, upright habits and no messy fruit.

There are several lovely large- to medium-sized ginkgo varieties. Most have been chosen for their unique, appealing growth habits in addition to robust growth and vigor. Those used as landscape trees are always seedless males. Two of the better available selections include the narrowly columnar ‘Princeton Sentry’, which only reaches 40 feet by 15 feet, and the excellent street tree ‘Magyar’, which reaches 50 feet x 25 feet and has a narrowly pyramidal shape with branches that curve upwards.

In my garden, I do not have space for a 100-foot or even a 40-foot tree. Most homeowners do not. However, due to recent ginkgo introductions, there are some cultivars that I can and do grow. Sometimes these are sold as being compact or “dwarf,” but it appears that the word dwarf often refers to a slow rate of growth rather than a small ultimate size. The plants might not be “dwarf” as we perceive the word to mean. I have been growing these new dwarf cultivars in pots and have them throughout my garden. With their slow rate of growth–even slower in a pot–they are easy to manage, and some selective pruning will keep them at the size that I want. (Ginkgos are classic trees for bonsai, so they are amenable to hard pruning.)

Dwarf Ginkgos

The leaves of the compact ‘Majestic Butterfly’ have beautiful variegation. (Image by Mike Darcy)

At the top of my dwarf ginkgo list would be the variety ‘Majestic Butterfly’. It is the first dwarf that I purchased, and it continually attracts the most attention from visitors. The annual rate of growth is considered 5-7 inches, so it has been very manageable. The outstanding feature of this ginkgo is the striped green and yellow variegation on the leaves, though the color can be variable. Sometimes an all-green branch will pop up, but as it goes through the season, the variegation will appear.

Another favorite is ‘Marieken’. It was discovered as a sport mutation in Holland in 1995 and is now in the retail trade. In my garden, it has a semi-prostrate growth habit. I have pruned it in such a way to encourage this habit, and it is now a spreading shrub of about 2 feet high and 6 feet wide. The leaves have wavy ruffled edges and turn brilliant gold in the fall.

The dwarf ginkgo ‘Mariken’ is a bushy, spreading beauty.

The ginkgo ‘Jade Butterfly’ has proven to be quite popular with gardeners and should be readily available at nurseries. It has dark green leaves that look similar to the wings of a butterfly. It is another excellent ginkgo for a pot, and the unusual looking leaves draw much attention. As it matures, it develops a shrubby, vase-shaped habit.

The Ginkgo’s Legacy

Ginkgos have long been used for bonsai and can withstand the harshest treatment.

With fossils dating the ginkgo back millions of years, the endurance and survival of the ginkgo was ultimately tested when they dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima in 1945. Within days after the explosion, three Ginkgo trees sprouted new leaves. These trees were the closest survivors to ground zero after the atomic blast. Today they are part of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, and former Director Akihiro Takahashi summed it best when he declared that the ginkgos “expressed the endurance of hope, the need for peace and reconciliation.”

My Favorite Summer Flowering Trees

With the proliferation of spring-flowering shrubs and trees, sometimes the trees that flower in the summer can be overlooked. This is too bad because there is quite a selection of summer flowering trees from which to choose. Many people visiting our garden are often surprised to see the trees that are in bloom in July and August. So, as people visit our summer gardens, we make sure to educate them about our favorite summer-blooming trees.

Crepe Myrtle

One of my favorite summer blooming trees is crepe myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica). Perhaps thirty years ago I planted one of these small, multi-stemmed trees in my garden and at that time it was not a well-known tree in the area. It has since thrived and is now about 20 feet tall. It blooms in August and continues flowering into September with flowers that are pale lavender.

Truly, it is the terminal clusters of small, curly edged, brightly colored flowers of white, pink, red, or lavender that really make these trees shine. But, crepe myrtles have many other desirable attributes. The leaves are often tinged with red when they open in the spring and then turn dark green as they mature. The bark is another outstanding feature. As the trees mature, the smooth grey or tawny bark begins to exfoliate, revealing a lower layer of copper-colored bark. The bicolored effect is especially attractive in winter. Plus, many crepe myrtle trees have beautiful fall leaf color of red, orange, and/or yellow.

There is one common problem that these trees may have. That is powdery mildew. While the tree in my garden sometimes gets powdery mildew, many of the new hybrids are powdery mildew resistant. Trees planted in open areas with a lot of airflow and sunlight are also let apt to get the disease. Trees also perform best in very well-drained soil. The addition of Black Gold Garden Compost Blend will increase fertility and drainage.

The bark of ‘Natchez’ crepe myrtle looks beautiful any time of year.

For many years, the U.S. National Arboretum has conducted a breeding program and introduced many crepe myrtle trees and dwarf shrubs that have been selected for winter hardiness and mildew resistance. Many of the mildew-resistant introductions have Native American names, such as ‘Zuni’ (bright purple flowers and orange-red to maroon fall leaves), ‘Tonto’ (semi-dwarf, fuchsia-red flowers, and orange-red fall leaves), ‘Hopi’ (semi-dwarf, pink flowers, extra attractive bark, and brilliant fall leaves in fiery shades), and ‘Natchez’ (white flowers, extra attractive bark, and orange-red fall leaves), and are exceptional performers in the garden. These new cultivars come in many sizes and have a wide selection of flower colors to choose from including white, red, pink, and various shades of lavender.

More recently some crepe myrtle plants have been developed for their intense black-purple foliage. Examples are Black Diamond® and Sunset Magic™. Check with your local garden center to see if any of these beautiful selections are available.

Seven Son Flower

Seven son tree has fragrant, white flower clusters in summer.

The Chinese seven son flower (Heptacodium miconioides), is an easy-to-grow, summer-flowering tree that we do not often see, probably because it is not well known. The common name, seven son flower, is named for how the flower clusters are arranged. Smaller whorls of seven small flowers comprise the larger flower clusters. The flowers appear over a long period in the summer, from July to August, and are ivory and fragrant. They are followed by masses of attractive small fruits that appear inside rose-purple calyxes. From a distance, these calyxes look as though the tree is flowering.

There is one seven son flower in my garden that receives minimal care and still performs well. This tree can reach 15 to 20 feet tall and 10 feet wide and be trained as a single or multi-trunked specimen. The leaves are glossy green and the bark exfoliates, which is an added feature.

Harlequin Glorybower

When the harlequin glorybower (Clerodendrum trichotomum) blooms in my garden the fragrance of the flowers is almost intoxicating. Flowers appear in late July and August in white clusters. This tree also has the common name of peanut butter tree because when the leaves are crushed they have a peanut butter scent. This tree has fruits with scarlet edges that develop metallic-looking turquoise centers that will often last until after the leaves fall in autumn. It is quite a sight to see these colorful fruits on bare branches. This tree does sucker, so beware and remove suckers as soon as they appear.

Golden Rain Tree

If you have more space in your landscape, the midsummer-flowering golden rain tree (Koelreuteria paniculata) is a great choice. When mature, the trees reach a stately 30 to 40 feet–not too big and not too small. Airy clusters of golden flowers cover the tree when in bloom and are followed by interesting, drooping papery pods that are attractive in their own right. The tree’s compound leaves add textural interest and turn shades of gold, orange, and red in fall. Look for the variety ‘September’, which flowers later, from August to September.

This list offers just four examples of attractive summer-flowering trees. For more selections, visit a local arboretum. Many local garden centers will also have other suggestions for sale and are an excellent local source of information. Don’t think that flowering trees are only for spring. Extend your bloom season into summer and sometimes even into fall.

The white summer flowers of harlequin glory bower are in attractive clusters.

Edible Landscaping

Pots of lettuce look great in spring or fall gardens.

As I visit gardens, it is a delight to see more and more gardeners incorporating edible plants into their landscape. It has not been that many years ago that vegetables, fruits, berries, and herbs would be grown in their own separate garden spots. In many cases, they would be away from the ornamental plantings around the house. That is not so today, with gardeners being very creative in using edible plants, whether planted in the landscape or in containers.

Ornamental Berries

Blueberries are attractive garden shrubs to add to your landscape.

I think that one of the first edibles to incorporate into the ornamental garden are blueberries (Vaccinium spp.). Since the blueberry is a shrub, this is easy incorporation. Here in the Pacific Northwest, many gardens have blueberry plants mixed in and among ornamentals, and with good reason. The blueberry is a natural in the ornamental garden because in the early spring there are clusters of creamy white flowers, followed by blueberries and, depending on the variety, the harvest season can extend from June through August. If that is not enough, in the fall, they have exceptional fall color with leaves turning shades of yellow and red. Blueberry plants like acidic soil rich in humus, and Black Gold Garden Compost Blend or Black Gold Peat Moss are ideal amendments to add at time of planting or to use as a top dressing around the plants. Blueberries have shallow roots and the addition of compost around the base of the plant will help keep the roots moist in the summer. Plant at least two shrubs for good fruiting, ‘Bluejay’ and ‘Duke’ are good selections.

Often when we think of hanging baskets, we think of flowers, but consider everbearing strawberries (Fragaria anassa) as an alternative. The plants will fill the basket, and the runners will trail down over the sides. Select a variety such as ‘Quinault’ or ‘Seascape’ that will produce berries over a long period of time. Hanging baskets tend to dry out quickly on hot summer days and Black Gold Waterhold Cocoblend Potting Mix is specially formulated to retain moisture.

Ornamental Fruit Trees

These espaliered apples are space-saving and look great.

While most city lots cannot accommodate standard size fruit trees, some innovative gardeners have learned to espalier dwarf fruit trees. In a very limited space, you can grow apples, pears, peaches, and plums. Training a fruit tree on to a wire support system is not difficult, but it does require regular pruning and training to keep the branches flat along the wire. The limiting factor for some gardens would be sunlight, and for fruit trees to thrive, they should have at least six hours of sunlight; more would be preferable.

Ornamental Greens

Rainbow chard makes a beautiful addition to borders.

Pretty and delicious greens are some of the easiest ornamental edible to incorporate into the garden. Plant pretty pots of lettuce (Lactuca sativa) for a colorful and delicious change to bedding flowers. Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris ssp. cicla) and attractive kales will also add big foliar interest to gardens and landscapes. Try the fantastically pretty blue-green dinosaur kale (Brassica oleracea ‘Lacinato’) or silvery cardoon (Cynara cardunculus) to make a bold garden statement. Pretty herbs, like lavender-flowered chives (Allium schoenoprasum), also make a great floral and foliar addition to gardens.

Ornamental Vines

Tromboncino squash looks pretty and tastes great.

Growing squash and cucumbers vertically is something I am seeing in gardens both in the ground and in containers. Bush squash or cucumbers are always the best for smaller garden spaces or pots. The pretty pattypan squash ‘Sunburst’ has bold leaves and delicious yellow fruit. If you want a potted cucumber, try the small, pretty ‘Salad Bush’. Its small cucumbers are crisp and delicious.

For vining squash, choose summer squash, which can be easily trained to grow on a trellis. If growing squash or cucumbers in a container, use Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix for optimum results. Summer squash can be quite decorative on a deck or patio with fruits of various shades of green and yellow. The long-vined (15 foot) tromboncino squash (Cucurbita moschata ‘Tromba d’Albenga’) is grown for its long fruit, which can reach 3 feet or more. Let the squash grow vertically on a trellis, and plant herbs or edible flowers around the base, like pot marigolds (Calendula officinalis) or basil (Ocimum basilicum).

Edible Flowers

Then there is a suite of fantastically beautiful edible flowers to make your garden look outstanding and taste wonderful. Watch this video to discover the best-tasting edible flowers for gardeners to grow.

Some gardeners are making their raised vegetable beds as a focal point of the garden. Raised beds do not have to be square or rectangle but can be cut to reflect different angles.

The possibilities of an ornamental, edible garden or landscape are endless. Do some experimenting, and you may be pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to have a pretty edible garden providing good looks and fresh produce throughout the summer.

Five Great Daylilies for Continuous Bloom

Rainbow Rhythm® Tiger Swirl is an extra pretty, large-flowered everbloomer. (Image care of Proven Winners)

Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) are one of the most welcome flowers of summer, but most bloom for just four to five weeks, some blooming earlier and others later. This is why daylily hybridizers have worked to breed daylilies with longer bloom times. These days, there are more and more great rebloomers on the market for gardeners to plant and enjoy.

About Daylilies

A garden filled with daylilies flowering in late summer.

Daylilies belong to the genus Hemerocallis–a name derived from the Greek words hemera (day) and kallos (beauty). The genus was originally named by Swedish botanist Linnaeus, the father of modern taxonomy and plant classification. Linnaeus originally classified these plants as part of the lily family but more recently they have been moved into their own plant family, Hemerocallidaceae.

These flowers have a long history and are known to have been cultivated during the time of Confucius, (551-479 BC). Originally these long-lived perennials were grown for food and medicine. The Asian natives reached Europe in the 1500s and, along with peonies and lilacs, were one of the earliest ornamental plants taken to the New World by colonists. The standard ditch lily (Hemerocallis fulva) was the common species grown. The wild nature of these orange-flowered daylilies made them less garden worthy by the standards of today, but nevertheless, they offered seasonal color in early gardens. They were also easy to grow, required little care, and could grow in diverse environments.

About Reblooming Daylilies

The pale yellow reblooming daylily ‘Happy Returns’ is low growing, too. (Image by Ateragramm)

Before the 1970s, daylilies were less popular in ornamental gardens. This was because of their relatively short bloom period, the straggled and unkempt look of their late-season foliage, and the bank of more garden-worthy flowering plants with continuous summer blooms. Then reblooming daylilies began to appear. The most popular of these was the 1975 introduction, ‘Stella de Oro’. It was the introduction of this daylily that inspired a widespread change in perceptions about daylilies. ‘Stella de Oro’ has compact foliage, golden flowers. and probably the most important feature, a long blooming season. It became the new role model for daylilies and is still one of the most popular landscaping daylilies today.

With the attributes of ‘Stella de Oro’, a new interest in daylilies began and home gardeners suddenly began using them in their ornamental gardens. Plant breeders began to make crosses, and soon there were new colors of daylilies that were rebloomers. (I recently spoke with a daylily grower about rebloomers, and he commented that for summer-long bloomers he preferred the term continuous bloomers because they begin blooming in mid-June and continue through the summer and often into September.) Here are some of the best rebloomers beyond ‘Stella de Oro’.

Reblooming daylilies come in all colors from apricot to purple to palest yellow.

Hemerocallis ‘Apricot Sparkles’: Introduced in 2000, this compact, continuous bloomer has apricot-colored flowers that are large and showy.

Hemerocallis ‘Buttered Popcorn’: This award-winner is a reliable rebloomer that was bred in 1971. Despite its fine, fragrant, butter-yellow blooms on 32-inch stems, it did not win the quick popularity of the more compact ‘Stella de Oro’.

Hemerocallis ‘Daring Deception‘: Grow this 1994 rebloomer for its wonderfully fragrant flowers of pale lavender pink with purple edges and a central eye. The plants reach 24-inches tall.

Hemerocallis Happy Ever Appster® Daylily Series: Bred by famed daylily breeder Dr. Darrel Apps, the daylilies in this series include many favorites, many of which are ‘Stella de Oro’ hybrids. The series includes popular varieties, such as the classic ‘Happy Returns’, a compact rebloomer from 1996 with cheerful primrose yellow flowers.

Hemerocallis Rainbow Rhythm^® Daylily Series: There are so many beautiful, reliably reblooming daylilies in this group that its cultivars are sold by Proven Winners. Try the spectacular variety Rainbow Rhythm^® Tiger Swirl, which has huge 7-inch flowers of gold with a red central eye.

‘Daring Deception’ is a fragrant daylily with flowers of pale lavender-pink and a black purple edge and eye.

This is just a small sampling of the many rebloomers available. After visiting several garden centers and looking at catalogs and online sources for daylilies, the selection of “continuous” bloomers is vast. There is huge diversity in daylily flowers in lots of colors, many with dark edges and centers. Flowers not only come in single forms but semi-doubles and doubles as well as those with ruffled edges. Most have arching foliage, and plant height is variable with some growing only about 12-inches tall and others reaching 3-feet high or more.

Growing Daylilies

Daylilies are easily divided in spring or fall if their clumps become too large.

Luckily for gardeners, daylilies are exceptionally easy to grow. They perform best in a soil that has been amended with compost. Black Gold Garden Compost Blend is ideal. Give daylilies a location where they will receive sun for at least 5 hours a day. Plant the crown of a new plant slightly below the soil surface to protect the overwintering buds. Placing mulch around the base of your daylilies in the fall to further protect them during the winter. Daylilies are easily divided if their clumps become too large for an area.

As with many plants, keeping the old blooms picked off will encourage more flowers. If the foliage starts to look unkempt in late summer, gently pull off the browning leaves to refresh the plant’s overall look.

If you think of daylilies as short-season blooming plants, check out the many new continuous bloomers. This is an excellent time to plant them, and plants from a local garden center will probably be in bud or bloom providing instant color.

Five Bold Salvias for Summer-Long Color

Salvia guaranitica ‘Black and Blue’ is tall, beautiful and blooms effortlessly.

Ask any gardener what their favorite plant is, and you are sure to get multiple answers. Some of my favorites are in the genus Salvia. It offers a wide variety of garden plants with impressive flowers. I have many containers scattered throughout my garden, and there are more pots planted with salvias than any other flowers. When I say Salvia, I am not just referring to common bedding types, like mealycup sage. My favorites are bold, perennial everbloomers.

Though many of the varieties that I plant are technically perennial if we have a severe winter they may not survive. My philosophy is that the plants provided me with so much enjoyment that even if they die, they were worth it. Fertile soil with good drainage is essential for potted salvias, so I use Black Gold® Natural & Organic Potting Mix and often add Black Gold® Perlite as an added insurance for good drainage. Most also require full sun to thrive and bloom to their fullest.

Here are my top five favorite bold salvias that will bloom through summer. As an added bonus, all are very attractive to hummingbirds.

Anise-Scented Sage

Salvia guaranitica ‘Black and Blue’ has been a longtime favorit, and we have had at least one pot on our deck for many years. It begins blooming in May and continues until fall. Often plants at garden centers will be in bud or bloom, and the flowering will continue until frost. Cut the old flower stems back to prevent the plant from going to seed, which will increase flowering. It is marginally winter hardy. In my yard, the stems die to the ground but often the roots will survive.

Salvia guaranitica ‘Amistad’ is similar in habit to ‘Black and Blue’ except the flowers are darker and more violet instead of blue. It is a consistent bloomer just like ‘Black and Blue’.

Scarlet Sage

The tender perennial Salvia splendens ‘Saucy Red’ has flowers that look ‘muddy red’, according to a friend visiting my garden. This might not sound like an attractive color, but the plant is spectacular when it comes into full bloom. ‘Saucy Red’ blooms late in the season, and in my garden it does not begin flowering until late summer. It has not been winter hardy where I live, but further south it will live from year to year. The tall ‘van houttei Peach’ is another recommended Salvia splendens variety with palest peach-pink flowers.

The Wish Salvias

*Salvia* ‘Embers Wish’ has brilliant blooms on tall plants. (Image by Jessie Keith)

Salvia ‘Embers Wish’ was a new salvia for me last year, and I am planting it again this year. It has coral-red flowers that appear early and continue all summer. It is a prolific bloomer and a vigorous plant, reaching 4-feet high. It received full sun in my garden, and the flowers did not fade. The roots did survive the winter and new growth is now appearing. Salvia ‘Wendy’s Wish’ is almost exactly the same but it has violet-pink flowers.

Bolivian Hummingbird Sage

Bolivian hummingbird sage (Salvia oxophora) was also new to me last year, and the flowers look the least like a typical salvia. It also goes by the common name Fuzzy Bolivian Sage because the flowers have a fuzzy, almost velvety look. It prefers some afternoon shade in areas where it is very hot. It is not winter hardy and since I did not want to lose it, I took the pot into our garage during the cold weather. While the plant did not look so good when I took it outside this spring, I cut it back about half way and new healthy looking growth is appearing.

Texas Sage

Classic Texas sage (Salvia coccinea) is a tender perennial that has bright red flowers that bloom all summer and well into fall to feed migrating hummingbirds. There are also white and coral-pink varieties. Pinch back the old flowers of this heat-tolerant tender perennial to encourage more blooms.

Try any one of these salvias, and I do not think you will be disappointed. You’ll have colorful blooms all season and hummingbirds to spare.

California Wild Lilac for Western Gardens

*Ceanothus thyrsiflorus* is the most commonly cultivated species of California wild lilac. (Image by Kousvet)

It is difficult to think of another plant genus that has the diversity of violet-blue flowers as Ceanothus. There are several species available to gardeners, but the most cultivated is Ceanothus thyrsiflorus (USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10). Most are native to California and are sometimes referred to as California wild lilac, but there are some native to Oregon and the Pacific Northwest. Unlike true lilacs, which are in the olive family (Oleaceae), these shrubs are in the buckthorn family (Rhamnaceae). Although the growing requirements of different species and varieties are diverse, as a group, and in our Pacific Northwest climate, most will thrive with little care once established. Generally, the crucial factor is providing them with well-drained soil.

California Wild Lilac Characteristics

An impressive *Ceanothus* hedge in full bloom.

Most Ceanothus bloom in spring and early summer with clusters of violet-blue flowers that range in color from light blue to sky blue to violet blue. The evergreen shrubs are generally not long-lived plants, surviving 10-15 years on average. In addition to their spectacular flowers, another attribute is that the plants fix nitrogen into the soil, and so planting them in the landscape helps improve soil nutrition. The flowers are also very attractive to honey bees, as well as native bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. They prefer full sun but can withstand light shade, and once established they do not need summer water. They are truly low-maintenance, easy-care plants for the garden. Their growth habits are variable as there are some species that grow as ground covers and others that become large shrubs with heights reaching 10 to 12 feet.

These beautiful western natives require soil that is light and sandy or loamy with excellent drainage. They are not picky about soil pH. The addition of Black Gold Garden Soil at planting time will really help. Another benefit is that they are tolerant of salt spray but need to be protected from high winds. As the shrubs grow, pruning is often required for space consideration. The important thing to remember is that pruning must be done after the plant has bloomed.

California Wild Lilac Varieties

Bees of all kinds love them flowers of Ceanothus!

Luckily for gardeners, the California wild lilac varieties are available at local garden centers and have continually become more available over the past few years. When purchasing one, be sure to check the plant label or ask a knowledgeable nursery person, since their growth habits are so variable.

One of the most popular and widely planted Ceanothus in the northwest is Ceanothus thyrsiflorus ‘Victoria’. Originally found in Victoria, British Columbia, this shrub has glossy foliage and is good looking throughout the year. The flowers are sky blue and cover the plant from May to June and the shrubs will sometimes repeat bloom but are not as prolific as the first spring flowering. It is a tall shrub, in my garden reaching about 8 feet in height and almost as wide.

Ceanothus ‘Dark Star’ is one of the showiest hybrids with very small dark green foliage and a spreading habit (4 to 8 feet by 8 to 12 feet). The flowers are deep cobalt blue and stand out against the dark green foliage. This is a spectacular specimen plant for the spring garden. The flowering season is usually in April.

For a ground cover, Ceanothus gloriosus ‘Point Reyes’ is hard to beat. It will cover the ground densely with light-blue flowers in March. This is an excellent plant for steep banks or slopes and will usually not get much taller than about 1 foot. It is tough and heat tolerant, so it is often planted in the ‘hell strip’ area between curbs and sidewalks.

New Jersey Tea is an eastern species that also grows well out west. (Image by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service)

Some eastern Ceanothus are also available for gardeners in this part of the country. New Jersy Tea (Ceanothus americanus) is a very hardy deciduous species that survives in USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8 and can take partial shade. It has fragrant, white summer flowers that attract bees, and it only grows to 3- to 4-feet high. It is also tough and can be grown in the West.

Another for white flowers is Ceanothus cuneatus ‘Adair Village’, a cultivated variety of an Oregon native that has silver leaves and white flowers. It is fast growing, reaching about 8 feet at maturity, and requires no summer water. It is also a great pollinator plant, honeybees love it.

This brief listing of Ceanothus is just a sampling of the many species and varieties that are available. The ‘Victoria’ in my garden has never had a pest problem. I gave it supplemental water the first year and none thereafter. Check out your local garden center for prime Ceanothus because this is an excellent time to plant them.

Western Riparian Trees for Wet Soils

Trees that naturally grow by waterways or riversides make good landscape trees for wet ground.

Do you have moist ground in your yard but want trees for the site? For a gardener with wet or damp soil, finding a tree that will thrive in such conditions can be challenging. When browsing through a garden center and reading the cultural requirement for many of the plants, probably one of the most common phrases will be “needs a location with good drainage”. Often when I give presentations to garden clubs, a very common question asked is what kind of trees are recommended for areas with wet soils.

When recommending trees for wet soils, I have tended to rely less on textbook comments and more on actual experience. While my own garden does not have this issue, I have visited many gardens with moisture problems. The following selection of trees for wet soils has been collected from talking with other gardeners and actually seeing these trees growing in yards and landscapes.

But, in general, trees adapted to wet soils tend to either be natural waterside trees or lowland trees that inhabit flood plains that become seasonally water saturated. These are called riparian trees, and they are worth seeking out when planning landscape plantings for damp ground. When planting these trees in the landscape, it is always wise to enrich the soil with a fertile amendment, like Black Gold® Garden Soil.

Trees for Wet Soils

Tupelo

If I had to pick just one tree for an area with wet soil, it would be Nyssa sylvatica. Commonly called blackgum, sour gum, or Tupelo, it is a very hardy deciduous tree native to eastern North America, from southern Ontario to central Florida. Honey made from its flowers, appropriately called ‘Tupelo Honey’, is well known across the east, especially in northwest Florida. The trees are dioecious, meaning there are separate male and female trees that flower in late spring. Male trees have pollen-bearing flowers, while the female trees are fruit-bearing. Female trees develop small, bluish-black fruit if a male tree is close by for pollination. The olive-shaped fruits appear in small clusters, and while they can make a mess on a deck or driveway, birds like them.

The Tupelo is very well adapted to the Pacific Northwest and will reach a height of 35-50 feet. It is disease and insect resistant and makes an excellent shade tree. However, the real attribute of the Tupelo is its spectacular fall color. The simple leaves turn yellow and orange and then bright red before dropping. The red fall color is outstanding.

Alder

Alder (Alnus spp.) is another group of trees that are moisture loving and fast growing. Red alder (Alnus rubra), is a riparian native from Alaska to northern California. It usually reaches about 50 feet and has attractive bark that is light gray. The dark green leaves are rust colored and hairy underneath. European alder (Alnus glutinosa) is a non-native tree but one of the best for wet soils and can even survive standing water for a time. A disadvantage of alders in our Pacific Northwest region is that they are prone to getting tent caterpillars in the summer.

Pacific Crabapple

Native nurseries sometimes sell the Pacific crabapple (Malus fusca), which is a shrubby, small tree with fragrant white spring flowers and small yellow to purple-red fall apples that make delicious jams and jellies. In the wild, it survives along streamsides and moist woods, so it is perfect for lowland landscapes that are seasonally wet.

Willows

Many willow (Salix spp.) trees will also tolerate wet soils and look attractive, though most are fast-growing and short-lived. The Pacific Northwest native Hooker’s willow (Salix hookeriana) is a shrubby tree that can withstand high soil moisture and has attractive leathery leaves. White willow (Salix alba), which is native across much of North America, is not a tree for a small lot as it can reach 75-100-feet high and almost as wide. The leaves are silvery beneath and often turn gold in the fall. Golden weeping willow (Salix alba ‘Tristis’), has young stems that are bright yellow and are often used in flower arrangements. Be aware that willows have shallow and invasive root systems and should not be planted near power or sewer lines. While a weeping willow is beautiful to look at, it needs lots of room.

Vine Maple

The Pacific-Northwest-native vine maple (Acer circinatum) has truly beautiful pale green leave with fall color of yellow, orange, and/or red. It is a small tree that rarely reaches heights above 20 feet. Several cultivated varieties have been bred, including the coral-red-stemmed Acer circinatum ‘Pacific Fire’, which has palm-shaped leaves that turn a rich yellow in fall.

If there is wet soil in your garden, others probably have similar issues. I like to advise gardeners to check around their neighborhood for yards with similar characteristics. Talk to other gardeners and look to see what trees they are growing. Most gardeners are usually very receptive about sharing plant information. Hearing what trees grow with success in your own neighborhood should give you some sound guidance.

Articles