Articles

Do You Have Container-Gardening Tips for Desert Gardeners?

“I live in the Sonoran Desert of Arizona, so I have to garden in containers that can be moved when it gets hot. What is the best thing I can do for plants that are confined in containers in a hot climate like this?” Question from Jacqueline of Casa Grande, Arizona

Answer: Aside from choosing more drought-tolerant plants to grow, there are several other things that you can do to protect your outdoor container plants from the harsh, dry desert weather. Moving them from exposed hot spots into more protected, shaded locations indoors or outdoors is very smart. A similar tactic would be to place them in a spot that affords them shade during the hottest times of the day and protection from desert winds and nighttime cold snaps.

Water-Holding Pots

You can also do a lot to protect your plants by choosing appropriate pots of the right size filled with a potting mix that holds water very well. Larger, thick-walled ceramic pots that are glazed hold moisture in quite well and tend to stay cooler. Always choose containers that are light in color, which reflect the heat of the sun. Pots must also drain well and have a saucer or basin to capture excess water. Also, keep plants in larger-than-average pots with plenty of space for root growth; don’t ever let your plants become pot-bound as this causes plant roots and soil to dry out more quickly.

Water-Holding Mix

When choosing your soil, make sure it holds water well but also drains well. Desert gardeners should consider either Black Gold® Waterhold Cocoblend for organic growing or Black Gold® Moisture Supreme Container Mix for ornamental gardening. Both of these products really hold onto water well but also provide excellent drainage.

I hope that these tips help. There are MANY more excellent growing tips for desert gardeners in the Black Gold articles below.

High-Desert Vegetable Gardening with Maureen Gilmer

What are the Best Raised Bed Plants for High-Desert Gardens?

Grey and Silver Garden Plants for Arid Gardens with Maureen Gilmer

What Are the Best Hanging Basket Flowers For the High Desert?

Happy Gardening!

Jessie Keith

How Do I Care for Butterfly Bush in Spring?

 

Lo & Behold® Purple Haze Butterfly Bush (Image by Proven Winners®)

“What is the care for a butterfly bush in the spring?  Mine is pretty old, and I always trim it back in the spring, but it isn’t yielding as many blossoms.” Question from Diane of Newark, Ohio

Answer: Start by pruning your shrub, if you didn’t the previous fall. I recommend that you wait until after the last frost of spring to prune buddleia back. When you do, hard-prune it back to 1-foot high. Buddleija should grow back quickly once the weather becomes warm, so don’t worry about cutting it back so severely. To encourage the best possible flowering, feed your shrub with bloom-boosting plant fertilizer (Proven Winners® Control-Release Fertilizer is a good choice).

If your shrub is old, you may opt for another tactic. Butterfly bushes often don’t live past 20 years, and some of the newer varieties can have even shorter lifespans. So, if your shrub has begun to lose gusto, consider planting a new one. Some of the best new varieties are available through Proven Winners. We recommend those in the Lo & Behold® and Miss series because they’re seedless and non-invasive, unlike other common varieties. When planting any new shrub, amend the planting soil with Black Gold® Garden Compost Blend to help it establish roots quickly.

I hope that these tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How to Water House Plants

Watering house plants…it sounds simple, doesn’t it? But, if it were simple, there would be fewer black thumbs out there. Proper watering is at the heart of good plant care, and if you don’t know how to water a plant, then its little green future may be in peril. It is surprisingly easy to drown a plant with aqueous attention.

There isn’t a one-fits-all watering method because the needs of plants vary so widely. Some specialty plants, like many orchids and African violets (click here to learn more about African violet care.), require special watering, but lots can be grouped into heavy, average, and light watering categories. These are the plants covered in this article. Many characteristics impact watering, including the plant type and size, the growing environment, and even the pot type.

Watering and Pots

Consider drainage, pot material, and pot size before planting. You’ll also need a good saucer for catching overflow.

Before considering how to water what, it is necessary to cover planting containers. Consider these three container characteristics before potting up a plant or determining a water regime.

1. Drainage – First, unless you are watering an aquatic plant, pots must have drainage holes at the bottom, which allow water to fully drain. Otherwise, water will pool at the bottom and stagnate because of a lack of air. This will result in root rot or no root growth the soppy bottom of the pot. So, not only do drainage holes allow roots to get fresh water from top to bottom at each watering, but they help give roots needed air.

2. Material – The pot’s material will also impact a plant’s access to water. Terracotta pots soak up and release water, which increases the need to water. So, refrain from planting water-needy plants in Terracotta. Ceramic, fiberglass, and plastic pots are more watertight.

3. Size – Consider pot-to-plant and root-to-soil ratios. Larger plants in smaller pots need more water, while smaller plants in larger pots need less water. Why? Because smaller root systems soak up less water, and if little plants are grown in larger pots, the soil will hold water for longer. The flip side is that when the roots of a large plant outgrow a pot and become intertwined, they no longer have room to take up water, so the need to water greatly increases, especially when conditions are hot, dry, and sunny. Plant roots need room for good water uptake.

Watering and Environment

Most tropical house plants grow best in indirect light but prefer average warmth and relatively high humidity (or the occasional water spritz).

Just use common sense when weighing environment and plant watering needs. When conditions are sunny, dry, hot and/or breezy, plants need more water. So, if you place them in a hot, sunny window, near a vent or radiator, or in a warm conservatory or sunroom, plan to water more. Likewise, in lower-lit rooms that are cooler or very humid, the need for water will be reduced.

The soil environment also plays a big role in watering frequency. The more water your potting soil holds, the less water the plant will need. For example, Black Gold®Waterhold Cocoblend Potting Mix holds a high amount of water, unlike Black Gold® Cactus Mix and Black Gold ® Orchid Mix, which hold far less water. Black Gold® All Purpose Potting Mix is somewhere in the middle. We create different potting mixes because plants have different soil-water needs. That’s why it’s important to pot up a plant in the right mix.

Watering and Moisture Testing Methods

Succulents require far less water, especially in winter, so test the soil to be sure it is quite dry before watering.

The most basic watering method is simple; water the pot entirely until the bottom saucer is filled. Do this every time you water, and make sure there are no dry pockets in the potting mix down below (this can happen when soil becomes too dry between waterings). Consistent, thorough watering will also allow you to better calculate when to regularly water a plant.

When to rewater is the trickiest bit that gets new house-plant growers into trouble. How can you tell when you need to rewater? There are a few ways to determine this with average house plants. Most gardeners use the finger test. Stick your finger down into the soil. When it feels dry down to a couple of inches, then rewater. But, some gardeners want greater precision. Soil-moisture meters are accurate and popular with calculating gardeners. They indicate the level of moisture in the mix down to any given depth, allowing for more precise watering. Once you have a good watering rhythm, the need to test should be less frequent or even unnecessary.

Plants That Need Heavy Water

Ferns and many large-leaved tropicals are among the plants that require more water.

Think big. Large and thin-leaved tropicals, fast-growing plants, and those with big, fast-growing root systems require more water. They soak it up and spit it out quickly. (Some large-leaved plants with thick, tough, waxy leaves can be exceptions because some hold onto water quite well.) Elephant ears (Alocasia and Colocasia spp.), Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), and peace lilies (Spathiphyllum spp.) fall into the heavy-watering category as well as semi-aquatic plants, like papyrus (Cyperus papyrus). Depending on the growing environment, they may need to be watered daily or every few days.

Plants That Need Moderate Water

Many tropicals with slender or average-sized leaves perform very well with moderate (sometimes even low) water.

Moderately vigorous plants that are not succulent often require moderate water. These are your not too much, not too little, in the middle plants. Soil moisture meters are perfect for these. Begonias, spider plants, peperomia, pilea, palms, and philodendron all fall into this category. They may need to be watered once or twice a week under average indoor growing conditions.

Plants That Need Little Water

Cacti and succulents are among the easiest to kill because wayward gardeners tend to overwater them.

Cacti and succulents, such as agave, aloe, echeveria, and jade plants (click here to read more about growing jade plants), require the least amount of water. The main killer of these plants is heavy winter watering. In their natural habitats, most endure a dry winter period, so this is what they expect in homes as well. Root rot, stem rot, and plant death are the side effects of heavy watering, so it’s best to err on the side of safety and water little to none between late fall and spring–maybe once a month. If you bring them outdoors in hot summer weather, the need for water will increase to approximately three to four times a month.

Lots of semi-succulent tropicals are also surprisingly tolerant of low water. Snake plant (Sansevieria spp.), cycads (Cycas spp.), and ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) are included in this group. (Click here to watch a video about tough, low-water house plants.)

When getting the hang of watering a new plant, make sure you fully understand its growing and moisture needs. Then refrain from the desire to water just a little bit more or a little bit less than it needs. Get basic watering right, and you will be on your way to having a true green thumb.

If you are not certain of a plant’s specific water needs, then ask our garden experts via Ask a Garden Expert!

ZZ plant is a semi-succulent tropical that also requires low water.

Should I Sterilize Potting Soil to Reduce Greenhouse Pest Problems?

“In an effort to keep down the insect population of my indoor veggie garden, I’ve been sterilizing my soil in the oven or microwave. I’ve had whitefly and fungus gnat infestations from using Miracle Gro and other soils right out of the bag, so someone told me to sterilize, and it seems to work. However, if there are beneficial microorganisms in your Black Gold soil, I fear that sterilization may kill them. So, my question is this… should I heat sterilize my Black Gold organic soil before using it indoors? Or is that defeating the purpose of the soil’s ingredients?” Question from Holt of Georgia

Answer: Theoretically, fresh, straight-out-of-the-bag potting mix should be pest and disease-free. Black Gold® gets good grades in this arena, but if a bag gets slashed or torn during transport or is improperly stored, the contents can pay the price. (Only buy Black Gold® bags that are undamaged with contents that are not waterlogged.) Otherwise, you shouldn’t have to worry. Still, if you prefer to play it safe, soil sterilization is certainly helpful with preventing damping-off (click here to learn more), and it would kill any harboring pest eggs, but beneficial microbes will also pay the price.

The chief potting soil beneficials to consider are mycorrhizae and the good microbes in earthworm castings and sometimes compost. Other soil components, like Canadian Sphagnum peat moss and bark, are not particularly rich in any worthy beneficial microbes accessible to plant roots. Currently, we do not add mycorrhizae to any of our Black Gold® soils (unlike some of our Sunshine® mixes), but we do add earthworm castings and compost to quite a few, including our Black Gold® Natural & Organic Potting Mix. Sterilization would certainly kill any soil good guys, but if you are determined to sterilize, it should not impact your growing dramatically. And, you can always beef up your soil after sterilization by adding Black Gold® Earthworm Castings Blend from a well-sealed bag, or dry mycorrhizae spores, which are available at most garden stores.

Even after the sterilization of greenhouse pots, surfaces, and soil, pests may come. Every open door, window crack, or new plant brought indoors is a threat. When it doubt, fight back early using smart IPM. We have lots of blogs on the topic. (Click here to read an article about managing the worst indoor plant pests, and watch our video below about beating fungus gnats.)

Happy indoor vegetable gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

January: House-Hasson Dealer Market 2020


Sun Gro and Black Gold will be at booth 101.

Sun Gro Horticulture and Black Gold will be at the 2020 House-Hasson Dealer Market held from January 30th to February 1st, 2020, at the Opryland Resort in Nashville, Tennesee. House-Hasson is the largest regional hardware distributor serving dealers in Tennessee, 17 states in the United States, and regions in the Caribbean. This is our first year at the show, so stop by to see the newest and best growing products and services that we have to offer your business. Our distinguished products include nationally-recognized and respected brands, such as Black Gold, Fafard, and Sunshine premium growing mixes and amendments.

January: MANTS 2020

Check us out at Booth 242!

Black Gold and Sun Gro Horticulture will be at The 2020 Mid-Atlantic Nursery Trade Show (MANTS), The Masterpiece of Trade Shows. Now in its 50th year, this business-related trade show for the horticulture industry hosts nearly 1000 exhibiting companies and supports over 11,000 annual registrants. The huge event covers over 300,000 square feet at the Baltimore Convention Center. It will be held from January 8-10, 2020.

How Do I Start Paw Paw Seeds?

“I want to start and grow paw paw seeds. Can you give me your recommendation on a planting mix? I’m planting seeds in 4×14 containers. They’ll be in the containers for two years in the shade in hot Texas conditions before I plant them in the orchard. Pawpaws are considered tropical. The nursery that sells paw paw seed said I might want to add a 50/50 sand mix to potting mix to help pull the seed husk off the seedlings when they emerge. I’m afraid I’ll introduce a disease like damping off if I add sand to the mix. My orchard soil is all sand, so I have plenty. I’m not so sure adding my sand is a good idea. Thanks for your help!”

Question from James of Pilot Point, Texas

Answer: Thanks for your question about paw paw (Asimina triloba) seed germination. There are several things that you need to know before successfully growing paw paws from seed. First, they are temperate trees that survive in USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9, and the seeds need a moist chilling period (stratification) before germinating. Seeds need to be chilled for 100-120 days before they will sprout.

I recommend starting your seeds in smaller containers. You can either cover and chill them in a refrigerator or keep them outdoors uncovered during winter for natural chilling. Just never let the mix get dry. A super well-drained seed germination mix of 50% peat and 50% purchased sand is recommended to ward off fungal diseases, like those that cause damping-off (Pythium and Phytopthera). The better the drainage, the more difficult it is for these fungal diseases to thrive.

After the chilling period, keep the soil moist and between 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit for best germination. After seedlings sprout, quickly move them into your 4×14 pots containing well-drained potting soil. Fafard -2 is the Sun Gro pro mix that I recommend. It is one of our top blends for forestry. If planting in Black Gold, choose our Natural & Organic Potting Mix.

Water your trees regularly, especially during your hot, dry Texas summers. Once they are ready for orchard planting, I highly recommend amending your soil. Paw paws grow best in rich, moist, slightly acid loams. Sandy loams are fine as long as they have enough organic matter. The liberal addition of compost or peat moss will greatly increase the organic content of your sandy soil.

I also suggest that you visit the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center’s informational page on paw paw trees. You may also consider contacting the Texas center for specific tips about growing these trees in Texas.

Happy paw paw growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

DIY Garden Project: Birdseed Ornaments for Outdoor Decorating


Bring living beauty to your winter garden with these three do-it-yourself birdseed ornaments for outdoors. Each project is a great activity for kids. Some wild birds just eat seeds, while others rely more on berries, and some need fat, like suet, to survive winter. Our different ornaments have ingredients to satisfy almost all wild winter birds. These ornaments fulfill the diets of many different birds.

Click here for a step-by-step pdf.

Beyond Poinsettias: Fresh Holiday House Plants

Florist’s gloxinia has fallen out of vogue but has spectacular flowers in winter.

Red, green, and white–these are the common holiday colors. Poinsettias, amaryllis, paperwhites, and cyclamen–these are the common holiday plants in these colors. Why not shake it up? You can have these colors and enjoy them anew with more adventurous seasonal house plants.

Plant vendors sell all kinds of other indoor plants fit for the holidays and winter. It’s nice to include something new and just as festive but more exciting. Lots of cheery holiday plants also make long-lasting additions to the indoor garden, unlike most of the classics. (Click here to learn more about maintaining common holiday plants year-round.)

Holiday Flowering Plants

Red Guzmania (Guzmania hybrids)

Starry, red guzmania flowers can last more than three months!

The floral and foliage characteristics of this tropical plant tick off all of the holiday boxes. Their blooms are starry, red, and festive, and they are supported by splays of glossy green foliage. There are many red guzmania varieties from which to choose, which have begun to appear more often for the holidays. Ambient humidity and warmth are important for the good health of this rain forest plant. Pot up red guzmania in a well-drained potting mix with high bark content, such as Black Gold Orchid Mix.

Anthurium (Anthurium spp.)

Clean the leaves and long-lasting flowers of anthurium to keep them shiny and attractive.

Glossy, bright red flowers make anthurium a real color contender with the traditional poinsettia. Its deep green leaves are also glossy. Choose cheery varieties for window-side tabletops or less sunny, north-facing windowsills.

Varieties may be tall or small. Large, bright red, heart-shaped flowers are the glory of ‘Queen of Hearts’, which reaches up to 2-feet. Anthurium ‘Million Flowers Red’ is a shorter red-flowered variety that produces extra-small flowers in large numbers. The cutest miniature,  Anthurium ‘Baby White’, has little, white, petal-shaped blooms and only reaches 6-8 inches tall. Grab one of these, or another attractive variety, on your next trip to the garden center.

Rich, all-purpose potting soil, such as Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix, high humidity, and warmth help anthurium bloom best. Wipe their leaves and long-blooming flowers off with a damp cloth every month or so to keep them clean and glossy.

White Jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum)

White jasmine flowers are most fragrant in the evening.

Let your winter evenings be filled with the floral scent of jasmine. The white tubular flowers appear in fall or early winter and smell nicer than paperwhites. It grows as a vine and needs some pruning and training so trim as needed. Place it in a spot with bright, indirect light, and provide it with good potting soil and regular water.

Christmas Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)

Calendiva flowering kalanchoes has lovely double flowers and come in many colors, including red and white. (Image by Jessie Keith)

The English call this succulent Christmas kalanchoe because its bright flowers look radiant during the holidays. The compact plants have succulent leaves and reach between 6 to 18 inches. Popular varieties are red or white, but pink, orange, and yellow bloomers are also available. Flowering typically occurs from winter to spring but can last up to 6 months.

Like most succulents, kalanchoe needs little water during the winter months. It grows best in bright, sunlit, south-facing windows. Well-drained potting mix formulated for succulents, such as Black Gold Cactus Mix, is a must.

Florist’s Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa)

Florist’s gloxinia has huge, bell-shaped flowers.

Florist’s gloxinia deserves more attention due to its big, showy flowers. It has fallen a little out of vogue, but who knows why? The enormous, bell-shaped flowers of red and/or white (as well as purple and pink) are spectacular and will keep blooming for weeks with good care.

Grow florist’s gloxinia as you would its close relative, the African violet, and transplant it into Black Gold African Violet Mix. (Click here to learn more about growing African violets (and gloxinia).)

Holiday Foliage Plants

When it comes to house plants with festive foliage, there are many to come by that will consistently look good all year. In summer, they can even be brought outdoors to liven up the patio.

Silver Queen Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema ‘Silver Queen’)

Aglaonema silver Queen with a small number of green areas on the leaves

The textural ‘Silver Queen’ has boldly marked leaves of white and green. The 1-2-foot lush plants are shade-loving and originate from the humid tropics and subtropics of Asia where they survive in the forest understory. Give them a good, water-holding potting mix like Black Gold® Waterhold Cocoblend Potting Mix.

Two Tone Moonstone Red Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema ‘Two Tone Moonstone’)

Arguably the prettiest of the Aglaonema hybrids, ‘Two Tone Moonstone’ leaves are mottled with white and green and have pinkish-red stripes down each leaf. Grow it as you would ‘Silver Queen’.

T REX™ St. Nick Rex Begonia (Begonia T REX™ St. Nick)

T REX™ St. Nick provides a whirlwind of color. (Image thanks to Terra Nova Nurseries)

Introduced by Terra Nova Nurseries, T REX™ St. Nick provides a whirlwind of color. Its large, toothed leaves are dark greenish-purple with specklings of pinkish-white and bold streaks of pink and red. Pink flowers bloom in fall. Lightly moist fertile potting soil (like our All-Purpose Potting Mix), average humidity, and filtered light will keep it happy. Be sure not to overwater it in winter.

Mammy Croton (Codiaeum ‘Mammy’)

Flower leaves of Codiaeum variegatum. Close up Green croton plant surrounded by red crotons.

 

If you want a serious pop of color in your home, then grow the 2-3 foot croton ‘Mammy’. Its wavy, linear leaves are mottled with red, orange, and purple, and new growth is green and yellowish. Ironclad croton are very easy to grow if given large enough pots with well-drained potting soil (our Natural & Organic Potting Mix is a good choice), regular water, and average humidity. Wipe or rinse off the leaves from time to time to keep them dust-free.

Stay with the holiday color palette but break beyond the mold when it comes to holiday house plant choices. There are so many other jolly plants to enjoy through the season.