Food-Gardening Lessons From A Wartime Victory Garden

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Author: JESSIE KEITH

Plants are the lens Jessie views the world through because they’re all-sustaining. (“They feed, clothe, house and heal us. They produce the air we breathe and even make us smell pretty.”) She’s a garden writer and photographer with degrees in both horticulture and plant biology from Purdue and Michigan State Universities. Her degrees were bolstered by internships at Longwood Gardens and the American Horticultural Society. She has since worked for many horticultural institutions and companies and now manages communications for Sun Gro Horticulture, the parent company of Black Gold. Her joy is sharing all things green and lovely with her two daughters.

How Much Outdoor Cold Can Ginger Plants Survive?

“What is the minimum temperature for growing ginger plants outdoors?” Question from Susan of Pembroke Pines, Florida

Answer: Culinary ginger (Zingiber officinale) is a true tropical plant that originates from Southeast Asia. It survives in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12, which means that it can withstand outdoor cold reaching down to 25 to 30 degrees F, no colder. Temperatures on the coldest end will still stress plants out and cause their foliage to die back, so it’s best to keep them in a warm, humid location if the weather really takes a cold turn. But, ginger should grow really well in your zone 10 location under normal weather conditions.

To learn more about growing ginger, click here!

Happy ginger growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What Time of Year Do You Prune Abutilon?

“What time of year do you prune an Abutilon?” Question from Angie of Fort Bragg, California

Answer: Parlor maples or Indian mallows (Abutilon hybrids) are tropical to subtropical plants that can be pruned to shape at any time. Cultivated forms do, however, bloom on new wood, so late-winter or spring pruning is recommended. Especially if you plan to trim your plant just once a year. These shrubs can be cut back quite a bit and rebound beautifully. Another option is to carefully thin overgrown stems back to main or central branches or remove smaller tip branches. It depends on how large you want your shrub to grow. Shearing is not advisable.

Dead, diseased, or winter-damaged stems should always be cut off.

Happy Abutilon growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

When Should I Trim Tropical Hibiscus?

“When is the best time to trim tropical Hibiscus?” Question from Jane of Tampa, Florida

Answer: You can prune these evergreen tropicals at any time to manage plant size, encourage denser growth, and induce more flowering, but pruning is best done in late winter when they are blooming very little.

These tropical Chinese shrubs flower on new wood, and pruning encourages the development of new wood, so it’s a great way to get them to bloom more. Here are five good hibiscus-pruning tips.

  1. Late winter is generally a good time to prune, but wait until the weather is sure to be consistently warm.
  2. Use clean, sharp pruning shears.
  3. Make 1/4-inch angled cuts above the leaf joints (the angle’s point should be towards the leaf joint).
  4. Remove sprawling, unruly branches that ruin the plant’s bushy shape.
  5. Refrain from pruning again until the following year unless your shrubs become too overgrown.

Just be sure to refrain from pruning when your hibiscus are in full flower.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How and When Should I Plant Milkweed Seeds?

“I have some milkweed seeds and wonder when I should plant them. Should I plant now or wait until spring?” Question from Lynda of West Warwick, Rhode Island

Answer: Start milkweed (Asclepias spp.) seeds indoors in mid to late winter. The seeds of these long-lived perennials can be a little tricky to start because they require a chilling period before they will sprout. (Keep in mind that this only applies to temperate species. Tropical milkweeds, like Asclepias curassavica, don’t need stratification at all.) Here is a materials list and timeline of the steps needed to get these seeds to germinate.

Materials List

  • Milkweed seeds
  • Black Gold Seedling Mix
  • 4″ pots
  • Large, sealable plastic bags
  • Labels
  • Water
  • Seedling Trays with small pots or cell packs
  • Grow lights or sunlight

Directions

  1. Mid-Winter: Soak your seeds for half a day in lukewarm water. Sprinkle several seeds over small (4″) pots filled with moistened Black Gold Seedling Mix, and lightly cover them with additional mix. (The seeds should be placed about an inch apart. I suggest planting at least a two pots up to ensure you get at least a few seedlings.) Stick labels into each pot with the plant name and date started. Put the pots in large, sealed plastic bags, and then refrigerate them for four to six weeks. Make sure the mix remains lightly moist during this time. (This can also be done in plastic bags of lightly moist potting soil, but I find that the seeds are easier to find and manage if they are pre-potted.)
  2. Early Spring: Remove the pots from the refrigerator, place them in water-holding trays, and lightly water them with lukewarm water. Set them in a warm, south-facing window or beneath grow lights. I prefer to start seeds beneath grow lights. (Click here for an article with an overview of starting seeds beneath grow lights.) Lightly spray the surface soil to keep it moist. The seeds should germinate within two to three weeks. Then water intermittently to keep the pots just moist.
  3. Mid to Late Spring: Transplant the seedlings into their own small pots or into cellpacks, allow them to grow to at least several inches, harden them off, and plant them outdoors.

Click here for a full overview of transplanting and hardening off seedlings and planting them outdoors. Additionally, click here for a list of our favorite milkweeds for the garden.

Happy milkweed growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do I Harvest and Store Hardneck Garlic?

“I planted garlic bulbs for the first time and chose the hardneck variety ‘Music’. I understand that they will be fully mature around the first of August. Where is a good place to cure the bulbs for the duration? I live in a USDA Hardiness Zone 6 area.” Question from Belinda of Fort Wayne, Indiana

Answer: I have actually grown ‘Music’ garlic with great success. It’s a hardneck garlic, which means it has hard “necks” above the bulbs that keep them from being braided, unlike softneck garlic. Hardnecks are also more cold hardy and have fewer, larger cloves than softnecks. ‘Music’ is also a porcelain garlic, which means thin, white, satiny skins surround the extra-large cloves.

Time to maturity depends on the garlic variety and growing location. ‘Music’ is an early to midseason variety. In Indiana, I would expect it to be ready for harvest sometime in July.

In spring, your garlic plants will emerge and leaf up. By summer, each will have tall, upright, oniony leaves and produce a heron-shaped stem and bud; remove the stems and bulbs as they appear, or they’ll deplete the cloves below of energy. But, don’t throw them the stems away. They taste great stir-fried or sautéed.

Dig up the garlic bulbs when the leaves have declined significantly and start to turn brown. Wipe the bulbs clean of dirt, and hang them to dry for a week or two. ‘Music’ is an unusually good keeper for a hardneck. Count on its bulbs to keep for up to several months, if properly stored in a cool, dark place. (Click here for more tips on how to grow garlic.)

Enjoy your fresh garlic next season!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What Are The Best Indoor Grow Lights for Succulents?

“Now that the northern hemisphere is transitioning into winter, and I have more succulents than ever, what’s the best indoor grow light for me to invest in? Broad-spectrum? Red/blue lights? I’m confused.” Question from Stacy or Portland, Oregon

Answer: Plants always grow best with sunlight, which is full-spectrum. So, if you have a South-facing window that can accommodate your succulents, start there. Then supplement with full-spectrum grow lights where your sun-loving succulents are getting the least light. (Full-spectrum light covers all light wavelengths, from infrared to near-ultraviolet, which plants need to gather energy. This is because plant chlorophyll gathers light at all visible wavelengths and beyond (view the chlorophyll wavelength chart by clicking here).

If you are just illuminating your plants with lighting, then you’ll need strong, full-spectrum lights. Consider the spectrum, lumens (the light amount emitted per second), and lifespan of bulbs before purchasing them. The higher the spectrum, lumens, and lifespan, the better.

Here are your indoor grow light options listed from the lowest to the highest price.

1. Fluorescent Lights: There are several ways to go with fluorescent bulbs. The cheapest way is to use a balance of warm/red and cool/blue bulbs. Together they cover much of the light spectrum, but not all. Some fluorescent bulbs are specially designed for plant growing and cover more of the spectrum–up to 94%. In general, fluorescent bulbs are not very strong, so they must be placed just inches above plants for best light reception and growth. Most growers choose shop-light fixtures, which support long bulbs.

2. Metal Halide (MH) and High-Pressure Sodium (HPS) Lights – These bulbs can be quite expensive (both the bulbs and fixtures) and have high heat output, but they are stronger and can be used to grow larger plants. MH bulbs cover much of the warm/red light spectrum, which is best for foliage growth, while HPS bulbs cover more of the cool/blue spectrum, which is best for flowering. For this reason, these bulbs are often paired to cover a full spectrum for plant growth. If you want to use both bulb types, choose a fixture that will accept each.

4. LED – Great strides have been made regarding full-spectrum LED growing lights, and they are now superior to both fluorescent and MH-HPS options. They can be pricy, but they are long-lasting, full-spectrum, lack heat output, and require less energy. They are also stronger and can be used to grow larger plants. Read the Ask a Garden Expert below to learn more!

I hope that this information helps clarify your question and your succulents shine through the winter.

Happy growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Best Full-Spectrum LED Lights for Indoor Growing

Can I Grow Asparagus in Central Florida?

“I’m looking for asparagus that will grow in USDA Hardiness Zone 10b.” Question from Lori of Venice, Florida

Answer: Asparagus generally survives in USDA Hardiness Zones 3-8 and requires a winter dormancy period to successfully grow and produce spears.  In northern regions, plants can produce for up to 30 years, but they don’t tend to fare well down south where winters are warmer.

With that said, some varieties will produce spears in Central Florida, but they generally stay productive for just three to five years. One of the best of these varieties is the California-bred ‘UC-157’. (Click here for a good source.) This is the asparagus that you want to grow in your part of the world. To get special planting instructions for Central-Florida gardeners, visit the University of Florida’s page on the subject (click here to view).

Happy asparagus growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Why Are My Tropical Hibiscus Leaves Dropping?

“What are the reasons leaves drop from [tropical] hibiscus?” Question from Brenda of Miami, Florida

Answer: Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa–sinensis) are lovely shrubs when they are healthy and happy, but they look so dismal when they’re in poor shape–especially when they start dropping their leaves. There are LOTS of problems that can lead to leaf drop. Some of these depend on whether your plants are potted or in the ground.

Here are several common leaf-drop causes in potted hibiscus.

  1. Bound Roots – This means the plant has overgrown its pot and needs an upgrade. In this situation, the roots cannot access proper water and nutrients, and plants begin to decline. Poor growth, wilting, and leaf drop are just a few of the signs. Watch the video below to learn how to identify and repot pot-bound plants.
  2. Overwatering or Underwatering – Watering too little or too liberally can stress plants out. Tropical hibiscus need good soil moisture, but they can’t stand waterlogged soil. Irrigate when the top inch or two of the potting mix feels dry, and then water the pot thoroughly until the plant’s saucer is full. Your soil must also drain well while holding lots of moisture (Black Gold Moisture Supreme Container Mix is a good choice).
  3. Change of Scenery – If you recently moved your hibiscus to a shadier, windier, or indoor location, changes like this can cause stress and subsequent leaf drop. Give them good care, and they will snap out of it.
  4. Spider Mites – These tiny, destructive pests are nearly impossible to see but cause discoloration of leaves and eventual leaf drop. If you have them, you might also see little webs on the leaves and tender stems of infested plants. To determine if you have mites, take a clean piece of white paper, hold it beneath the leaves, then tap the leaves onto the paper. If you have mites, lots of tiny specs will fall and eventually, they will start crawling around. These are spider mites! (Click here for everything you need to know about getting rid of these pests.)
  5. Diseases – There are lots of diseases that can cause leaf drop. If your leaves show spots or mottling, then they are most certainly diseased. (Click here to learn about potential hibiscus diseases, pests, and solutions.)
  6. Poor Soil and Lack of Fertilizer – Be sure to refresh your plant’s soil every two years, and provide it with ample fertilizer for lush growth and flowering (follow manufacturer’s recommendations).

If your plants are growing in the ground, sharp temperature changes and high winds can cause leaf drop as can pest and disease problems. Considering that you live in Miami, I doubt that temperature changes are an issue.

Please let me know if any of these solutions help!

Happy hibiscus growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Black Gold’s 2019 Garden Photo Contest Winners

We were excited to have received hundreds of photos for our garden photo contest held in October, 2019. Thank you to everyone who entered. There were so many beautiful, high-quality photos to choose from that it was difficult for our panel of five judges to whittle it down to just three winning shots.

Our winning photos were of good quality and maintained a balance between garden beauty and bounty. Here are our top three picks.

First Place Winner

Dahlias by Christine of Klamath Falls, Oregon

After winning, Chris shared a very special story behind the dahlias shown in this photo. “My son’s grandfather planted dahlias for over 50 years. When he passed, we moved his dahlias from Washington to Oregon in over 10 car trips. He was a wonderful human being. I grow and share Grandpa Tony’s dahlias every year in his honor.” Congratulations Chris! Your lush, diverse dahlias were clearly grown with pride and care.

Second Place Winner

Harvest by Rachel of Raleigh, North Carolina

Rachel submitted a photo that showed a late-season harvest from her raised beds in the afternoon sunlight. She told us that gardening is her love and passion. Her photo proves it! Thank you for sharing your photo with us, and congratulations!

Third Place Winner

Colorful Border by Mary of Baton Rouge, Louisiana

What an impressive subtropical border! This well-composed photo shows off Mary’s great gardening and design skills. Its colors just pop.

Congratulations to all of our winners!