Articles

Why Didn’t My Hydrangeas Flower and Why Do They Have Spots?

“My hydrangeas didn’t flower this year and also have “black/brown” spots on the leaves.  Any ideas on what to do?” Question from Debra of Saint Inigoes, Maryland

Answer: Mophead or lacecap hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) are prone to fungal leaf diseases when there is excess moisture and the shrubs are poorly aerated. And, there are a couple of reasons why hydrangeas fail to bloom. 

Hydrangea Leaf Fungal Diseases

Do the spots on your plants look small, roundish, and purplish brown with lighter centers? If so, then they have the common disease, Cercospora leaf spot. It is not deadly, but it is unsightly and can eventually cause leaf drop. If your spots are larger, greyish, and more irregular, then your shrubs are suffering from Anthracnose spot. This appears when weather is excessively rainy and hot.

Both diseases take hold in spring but do not become visually apparent until later in the season. The best way to manage them is to clean old and diseased leaves diligently, and selectively prune to help aerate plants, which will reduce the onset of the disease. Also, refrain from overhead watering, which can further spread leaf spot.

Remove select stems down to the ground within your hydrangeas to encourage airflow, and if only a few leaves are spotty, remove them as you see them. Any fungicides you might use would be strong and not 100% effective at this stage, so I do not recommend them. In fall, be sure to remove all of the leaves that fall to the ground, and apply a fresh layer of mulch around them. Next year, keep an eye on your plants and remove any spotty leaves as you first see them.

Some hydrangeas resist spot diseases. These include the varieties ‘Veitchii’ (whitish flowers), ‘Pretty Maiden’ (soft pink flowers), ‘Ayesha’ (pink or blue white-centered blooms), and ‘Tovelit’ (brilliant pink or violet-blue flowers). If you continue to have lots of trouble, remove your hydrangeas and plant one of these.

Why Hydrangeas Fail to Bloom

Leaf spot will stress plants and can reduce bud set, but it should not totally keep hydrangeas from blooming. Two of the most common reasons hydrangeas fail to bloom in a season are 1) improper pruning or 2) winter dieback. If you prune Hydrangea macrophylla, then it is important to cut back the old blooms right after they flower. Otherwise, you may cut next year’s flower buds off. (Click here on a full tutorial on how to prune many different types of hydrangeas.) The same thing can happen if your shrubs suffered winter dieback. Sometimes late freezes damage the flower buds in spring as well.

I hope that this information helps. Please let me know if you have any additional information.

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Should I Store Peat Moss?

“I have purchased peat moss for the first time and will have some left over for the winter, how should it be stored? Question from Victor of Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Answer: Store your bags in a covered, dry place, and be sure your bags are secured at the top. You want to keep bags closed and dry to reduce the chance of attracting fungus gnats or encouraging fungal growth. It’s also wise to watch out for tears in your bags. Sometimes it’s worthwhile to purchase a covered bin to store peat moss or other amendments if you plan to store them for the long term.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

When is the Best Time To Grow Vegetables in Florida?

“I live in SW, Florida – what is the best time of year for growing vegetables? Question from Colleen of Englewood, Florida

Answer: I see that your summers are sweltering, humid, long, and can be cloudy while your winters are short, cool, and sunnier. What you grow in these times depends on the crop and season.

In the “cooler” winter months, you can grow root and cole crops. Late winter and fall are good times to start many warm-season vegetables that don’t thrive in raging heat.  In high summer, grow super heat-loving vegetables, like Southeast Asian eggplant and okra.

Here are some crops that I would recommend for each season:

Winter: cole crops, greens, and root crops. (Click here to read more about the best vegetables for fall and winter gardens in the South. And, click here to learn more about root crop growing. )

Late-Winter and Spring: beans, cucumbers, early tomatoes,  and summer squash. (Watch the video below to learn more about growing cucumbers.)

Summer: okra, eggplant, peppers, and other heat-loving varieties and crops. (Click here to read more about heat-loving vegetables and here to read more about tomatoes for Florida.)

Fall: Plant as you would in spring.

Strawberries are also great for growing in Florida. To learn more about strawberries for Florida, read this article.

I hope that this information helps!

Happy gardening,

Jessie

What is the Pollinator For Summer Squash?

Male squash bee (Peponapis pruinosa). (Photo courtesy of USDA-ARS Bee Biology and Systematics Lab)

“What is the pollinator for summer squash? I stopped trying to grow them after getting zero fruits last summer!” Question from Robin of Warner, New Hampshire

Answer: It is frustrating when squash do not set fruits. There can be several reasons why, but the primary reason is lack of pollination. The main pollinators are bees or all types, but squash (Cucurbita spp.) are native American plants, so they have unique native American bees specialized for pollinating them. Squash bees are small and come in two groups (Peponapis species and Xenoglossa species). They are solitary, meaning that they do not create hives, and they ONLY pollinate squash.

Keeping a Yard for Bees

Your squash should be enough to encourage squash bees, but if they are not abundant in your area, then you will need to rely on other bees to do the job. One way to encourage more bees to visit your vegetable garden is to plant swaths of garden flowers for bees nearby. Surrounding your garden with flowers is a great method. Bees love easy flowers like zinnias, cosmos, marigolds, sunflowers, and black-eyed-Susans. (Watch the video below to learn more about flowers for bees.)

It is also essential to refrain from using toxic pesticides in your garden. These kill bees that happen to land on a sprayed spot. Harsh chemicals in the garden aren’t worth it.

Sometimes fertilizer imbalance can contribute to poor production. Be sure to feed your squash with a quality fertilizer formulated for vegetables. Low light can also cause poor fruit set, so give your plants full-day sun. For additional information, I recommend that you read this article: Why Aren’t My Squash Bearing Fruit and Do They Have Borers?

Happy Gardening!
Jessie Keith
Black Gold Horticulturist

Should You Start by Tilling a No-Till Vegetable Garden?

Here’s a shot of my no-till garden three years after its creation.

“When creating no-till garden beds, do you think it’s best to till once and never again, or just use a never till method?” Question from Anthony of Bentonville, Arkansas

Answer: There are lots of benefits to going no-till with vegetable beds, especially when it comes to weed and weed seed control and the encouragement of soil beneficials. For me, creating a good no-till garden started with a big investment. I dug deep, enriched my beds to the hilt, and lifted and bermed my planting areas. (Lifting soil is especially important if your garden’s topography is low.)

Here’s my five-step method for starting a no-till garden.

  1. Till deeply: Creating a good vegetable bed is all about adding lofty tilth and good fertility for extra drainage and deep rooting. In my opinion, you cannot accomplish this without initial tilling. For excellent no-till bed longevity, you have to start by lifting and aerating your soil as deeply as possible.
  2. Double dig: Move the lofty tilled topsoil aside and double dig areas that you plan to plant. This is easier if your beds are on the smaller end, but at bare minimum, double dig the areas where you plan to grow root crops. (Click here to read more about double digging.)
  3. Amend all of your backfill: Amendments rich in organic matter and microbes are essential for the longterm health of your garden. Work as much good stuff, like Black Gold compost, earthworm castings, peat moss, and even composted manure, into your backfill as possible and till it in.
  4. Define pathways, fill, and berm: If you have a large or relatively large garden space, it’s nice to establish paths for easy garden access and harvest. Most gardeners choose a row or block design. I always like my pathways to stand a bit lower than my beds to encourage deep rooting, so I berm up fill in the bed areas.
  5. Cover: As a final step, I cover my walkways with black & white newspaper or non-waxed corrugated cardboard and cover the paper with a thick layer of seed-free grass clippings, straw, or even pine straw. You can even plant nitrogen-fixing clover in the walkways. Then I add a thick layer of compost along the top of the beds to detur weeds.

Each year, I clean up and refresh the walkways and add fresh compost as a mulch. Invest in your no-till garden like this in the beginning, and you will be wowed by the results.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

What Are the Best Tomato Varieties for Central Florida?

“What are the best tomato varieties for USDA Hardiness Zone 9a?” Question from Janet of Summerfield, Florida.

Answer: The best tomato varieties you grow will depend on the time of year in your Central-Florida location. You are lucky to have the luxury of being able to grow tomatoes almost year-round. For summer, grow very heat-tolerant varieties, and in your milder springs and falls pick fast-to-produce varieties tolerant of cooler conditions. Overall, choose tomatoes that are high yielding and disease resistant.

Tomato Varieties for Florida

Two of the best heat-tolerant varieties include the large, red-fruited ‘Heatmaster‘, which can take the high heat of the South, and disease and heat-resistant ‘Heatwave II‘, which bears deep red tomatoes with good flavor.

Two tasty early varieties for cooler growing conditions include ‘Aurora‘, which bears loads of medium-sized, red tomatoes fast, and ‘Alaska‘, which quickly produces red salad tomatoes on short vines.

From there, I encourage you to read all about our favorite sauce tomatoes, monster beefsteak tomatoes, eating tomatoes, and the 10 best-tasting cherry tomatoes.

Growing Tomatoes

Wherever you live, tomatoes need constant soil replenishment. Getting your soil and feeding regime right is so important. In general, tomatoes like fertile, well-drained soil that is high in organic matter and has a relatively neutral soil pH of around 6.0 to 6.8. If you are growing plants in the ground, amend your soil thoroughly with a quality amendment that’s high in organic matter, like OMRI Listed Black Gold Garden Compost Blend.  Be sure to raise low soils, so they are well-drained. It is also essential to feed regularly with a fertilizer formulated for tomatoes and to keep plants evenly irrigated.

Click here to read a great University of Florida Extension article with more information about growing tomatoes in your region. It also details some heirloom tomatoes tolerant of heat.

Happy tomato growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Should I Care for Marigolds Through the Season?

“I have a large, 1/2 whiskey barrel in my flower garden, planted with various types of marigolds.  Since Mother’s Day, when I planted them, I’ve fertilized them every two weeks.  I am faithful about deadheading them as needed, on a daily basis.  I water as needed. They are just glorious this year!  1) Should I continue to fertilize them?  How long can I expect them to last?  Thanks so much!” Question from Diane of Newark, Ohio

Answer: I love marigolds, too. They are heat tolerant, tough, beautiful, and so easy to grow. It sounds like you are doing everything right! Continue to fertilize them until mid-September, and they will keep blooming until the first frost of autumn. Late-season bees and butterflies that gather pollen and nectar towards the end of the season will thank you.

If you like to save seed, I would also suggest letting a few blooms go to seed, starting in late September. Once the plants have all succumbed to frost, remove the mature seedheads and pull the withered plants from your whisky barrel. Through winter, store the seeds in a paper bag kept in a cool, dry place. Then the following April, refresh the barrel’s potting soil (Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix is excellent) and sprinkle the seeds on the surface. Keep the soil moist, and they should start sprouting once the soil warms. I like this method because it’s free and effortless. Open-pollinated plants typically don’t look just like their parents, but the variation in the flowers from year to year is a fun surprise.

(Click here to read an article with more information about marigold growing.)

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

I Need Organic Solutions for Vegetable Pests and Powdery Mildew

“Which is the natural and most efficient solution against pests, aphids, white powder, etc. that year after year destroy our vegetables?” Question from Doina of Bothell, Washington

Answer: I wish that I could give you a simple answer. There are so many vegetables and so many pests and diseases that attack them that it is impossible to know where to start. You specifically mention aphids and powdery mildew, so I will give you guidelines for managing these. It will be followed up by two general steps that you can take to discourage veggie pests and diseases.

Aphid Management

Aphids are slow-moving insects that suck the juices out of tender plant parts, like stem tips and leaves. When aphid populations are high, they cover the tips of growing plants in masses. It looks creepy and can seem overwhelming. Lucky for you, they are easy to manage organically.

I always start by putting my hose setting on jet or center, then I spray. Aphids are delicate and can be spritzed off a plant in no time. To keep them from returning, follow up by spraying your plants with an insecticidal soap that is OMRI Listed for organic gardening. Keep them spritzed as you see more aphids. This method will put them in check quickly.

Powdery Mildew Management

This one is really simple! Powdery mildew is a leaf surface mold that can be removed with all-natural products containing the mild chemical potassium bicarbonate, which is similar to baking soda. GreenCure® is one of the most popular commercial examples on the market.  Just spray your mildew-ridden squash or cucumber leaves with these products and the spots disappear. It’s a remarkable transformation.

Two Steps For Disease- and Pest-Free Vegetables

Here are two more steps towards protecting your plants from pests and diseases. Both may sound deceivingly obvious.

1. Don’t stress your vegetables. When plants become stressed, they create stress chemicals that are detected by insect pests that are then attracted to the plants. What’s worst is that many common pests, like cucumber beetles and leafhoppers, spread common vegetable diseases. Stress also makes plants far more susceptible to disease. Weak plants have weakened immunity. So, grow your plants in well-fortified soil (see our long list of Black Gold soil amendments), provide them with good fertilizer throughout the season, and keep them well watered.

2. Choose resistant vegetable varieties (!!!). Choosing good varieties is the single most important way to protect your crops. When selecting varieties to grow in your garden, look for descriptions of pest and disease resistance. Award-winning plants also tend to be resistant and robust. Plants bred for resistance are the easiest to care for naturally and organically.

I also suggest you read the Fafard (our sister brand) article, Beating Vegetable Garden Pests Naturally, as well. It has even more information to help you. I hope that these tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

I Need Help Growing Hydrangea in My Central California Garden!

“Some tips please – I planted a Hydrangea, and it lasted just a couple of weeks.  I love the plant and would like to try again. Help!” Question from Rita of Dinuba, California

Answer: Hydrangeas are lovely when they are blooming at their prime, but many can be finicky, especially when it comes to soil and moisture levels. I see that your city has a USDA Hardiness Zone of 9, and Sunset Climate Zone 8. Your hot, arid summers and cool, wet winters don’t favor the needs of standard mophead or lacecap hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla). These survive in USDA Hardiness Zones 5-11, but they are really moisture-needy plants.

This doesn’t mean that you lack options. There are three possible solutions to consider.

1. Plant the tougher, more drought-tolerant panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) in a protected spot in your yard and give it lots of care through summer. There are many beautiful varieties, such as the large, bushy ‘Limelight‘, which has greenish-ivory flowers, and the compact ‘Pinky Winky‘, which has ivory blooms that darken to deep pink as they age. I suggest planting panicle hydrangea in a partially shaded location on the north side of your home and amending the soil heavily with organic matter. Black Gold Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss and Black Gold Garden Compost Blend will really boost levels of water-holding organic matter. Follow up with a 2- to 3-inch layer of fine bark or leaf mulch to reduce surface evaporation. Try to plant your hydrangea where it will be protected from the midday sun. Even though this hydrangea is tougher, it will still need to be irrigated regularly throughout summer.

2. Attempt to plant a mophead or lacecap hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) as you would the panicle hydrangea but give it even more water and care.

3. Plant a variety of the California Lilac (Ceanothus spp.), which is native to your state and has bold clusters of violet-blue or white flowers that rival those of hydrangea. The variety ‘Concha has extra pretty violet-blue flowers, and the flowers of the compact ‘Mill’s Glory‘ are forget-me-not blue. California Lilac would be the easiest option because the plants are best adapted to your climate. (Click here to read more about growing California lilac.)

I hope that these tips help! Happy gardening.

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Marvelous Miniature Flower Arranging

Small is sweet, especially when it comes to flowers and gardens. Miniature and fairy gardens have gained huge popularity, but miniature flower arrangements are just gaining attention. These tiny floral gems give crafty gardeners reason to collect the sweetest miniature vases (second-hand shops are a great source) and create small works of art that look best when presented in sets. Children are also thrilled to devise their own delicate mini flower creations.

Vases

We have gathered cute, tiny vases that are made of crystal, colored glass, and ceramic.

Rule one: your vases must be very little. Vase size, color, and personality can set the stage for your floral creation. Rounded vases are designed for radial views—or table centers. Square or rectangular vessels can hold front-facing floral arrangements to be placed against walls, or not. Brightly or wildly colored vases lend themselves to simpler floral color schemes for contrast, while simple, neutral vases can hold anything.

Basic Design Tenets

This simple arrangement maintains a monochrome color scheme of pink and balances two textures–an airy, mounded base of Joe-pye blooms and spiky celosia.

Formal floral design embodies many design tenets for good arranging. Here I will define six.

  1. Line: This is the arrangement’s path that draws the eye. The overall direction of an arrangement’s focal point—whether primarily vertical, horizontal, symmetrical, asymmetrical or angled—defines the line.
  2. Form: Flower placement defines form with respect to flower height, arrangement width, and depth.
  3. Space: Flower spacing is what enables each flower to be visually appreciated.
  4. Texture: This refers to the coarseness or fineness of arrangement components. A textural theme can be dominant (all fine or bold flowers and foliage) or mixed/balanced.
  5. Flower size: Central, dominating flowers are the biggest and boldest while smaller flowers and foliage accentuate the showpiece blooms like ladies in waiting.
  6. Color (scent can also be considered): For easy arranging, choose flowers with complementary contrasting colors, a beautiful bright or pastel hodgepodge, or flowers of all one type or color.

Or you can throw away the rules. The carefree gardener need not apply themselves to any rules and still create something beautiful. Wild and free arrangements have their own charm. This approach is often a default for kids unless you have a disciplined child wanting to design within set parameters.

Some Tiny Flowers

There are many mini flowers that are probably already in your garden! Here are some good ones.

All good cut flowers last longer in the vase. Choose small specimens with good longevity. Sometimes these can be smaller side blooms on plants with larger blooms (like purple coneflower, black-eyed-Susan, and Joe-pye-weed) white others are tiny from the getgo. All need to be placed in water just after cutting.

Alyssum (Lobularia maritima): These tiny, sweet-smelling blooms are white, pink, or purple.

Spike Celosia (Celosia spicata): These form papery spikes that last a long time. Choose small side blooms.

Gomphrena (Gomphrena globosa): The tiny papery globes come in pretty shades of red, pink, purple, and white.

Small Pinks (Dianthus spp.): The long-stemmed blooms may be white, pink, lavender, red, purple, and burgundy and look like little pincushion flowers.

French and Signet Marigolds (Tagetes patula and Tagetes tenuifolia): Everyone knows and loves these yellow, gold, and/or orange flowers.

Violas and violets (Viola spp.): These flat-faced, fragrant flowers prefer cool weather. Violets are just spring bloomers.

Jeana Tall Phlox (Phlox paniculata ‘Jeana’): This tall phlox has clusters of teeny weeny lavender-pink flowers.

Brown-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia triloba): This airy perennial becomes covered with lots of tiny black-eyed golden blooms in late summer.

Miniature Roses (Rosa spp.): Everyone loves roses and miniature rose flowers are exquisite.

Small Salvias (I like Salvia farinacea and Salvia greggii): Almost all salvias–blue, pink, red, or white–work well.

Creeping Zinnia (Sanvitalia procumbens): The flowers of this creeping annual look like the tiniest black-eyed-Susans. So cute!

Small-flowered Zinnias (Zinna Profusion series and Zinnia angustifolia): Small-flowered zinnias come in many bright shades and last long in the vase.

Complement any of these blooms with attractive foliage from any appealing garden plant. (Click here for a list of additional fast-growing cut flowers for fall.)

All of these flowers grow best in garden beds amendment with Black Gold Garden Compost Blend. The annuals thrive in pots of Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix.

Designs

This suite of tiny arrangements shows the diversity of pretty bouquets you can bring together in the garden.

Each vase of flowers should embody the maker. Go for the style or design scheme that pleases you the most. Here are a few that I created with my girls.

A collection of different miniature arrangements—coordinated or every which way—can make quite a statement. Line them up along a window ledge or as a collective on a shelf or table.

My girls love to create their own intermittently to decorate the dinner table. This idea could also work at a dinner party. A personalized mini floral creation at each table setting would also look impressive.

The tiniest of the tiny arrangements are the cutest!