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SEASON ‘ROUND COLORS IN THE GARDEN

For maximum satisfaction, I find that planning my garden so that it produces fresh floral displays throughout the growing season, is a good idea.  As a side benefit, every day I can look out and enjoy the view, and on blue days when I need a pat on the back or a kick in the slats I can say “Hey look, I did all this.” That usually works.

For most of human existence, color, if it was considered at all, was supposedly sprinkled about by some beneficent deity to keep us amused. Scientists now believe that what we perceive as beautiful colors are no more than varying frequencies of electromagnetic energy, sensed and interpreted by our eyes and brain. That certainly takes some of the romance away, but on second thought, it’s still beautiful, so to heck with it.

When our temperate landscapes change from dull grayish brown to an overwhelmingly luxuriant green, it’s probably spring. And spring brings with it lilacs, my favorite flowering shrubs. When my yard is filled with the scent and beauty of lilacs, that is the high point of my spring. I tend to overdo, so I have fourteen of them.  My favorite is ‘Marie Francis’, a true salmon pink, an unusual warm color in a sea of cool purples, blues and whites. Of course, spring is also filled with bulbs, such as daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths, spreading fabulous colors around the garden.

Spring also brings the hostas, a perennial, which comes back every year, with leaves in different shades of green, blue, and yellow, with a combination of different stripes and edges, some wavy.  They are a shade plant, coming in all different sizes, and keep their beauty all season, under trees, and on the north sides of houses.  Two new varieties I could not pass by this year, were ‘Glad Rags’, with bright yellow, crinkled leaves and a center green stripe, and ‘Etched Glass’, which has thick, bright, green leaves, and an etched ivory center.

Summer moves in for its turn in late June. Suddenly the number of flowering species and colors takes a big jump. A glance at my summer garden will quickly inform you that daylilies are my summer passion, and they are currently one of the most popular perennials. I have about sixty different varieties.  There are now hundreds of different varieties, in red, yellow, purple, orange, lavender, and white.  Newer ones have ruffled edges, or throats of a different color.  I have ‘Diva’s Choice’, deep bright pink, with yellow ruffled edges.

There are many annuals, which need to be planted every year.  A popular flower, means many new varieties of it will be developed every year, and petunias are one of the best examples.  A few years ago, when the wave petunias that spread over the edges of pots came along, they sold like crazy.  Now we have purple petunias with white edges, blue, (there never used to be a blue petunia), with white spots, and striped ones and more. I, of course, have every one of these on my back deck. I plant the purple and blue with marigolds in the back.

Of course the favorite flowering shrub of all is the rose.  I buy mine from David Austin, a famous English Rose Breeder, who has new breeds and favorite antique ones. English roses are gorgeous, thick with petals, and come in many colors.  My favorite is ‘Lady of Shalott’, a thick, salmon colored rose, on four foot tall plants.

Another very popular perennial is the coneflower.  They are daisy shaped, sun loving flowers that used to be just pink.  Now they come in every shade of pink, orange, yellow, red, some with two colors, and there is even a green one.  Coneflowers are very easy to grow, and bloom heavily all summer.

 

Late summer and early fall will bring on colorful asters and mums. There are thirteen different shaped chrysanthemums.  That’s a lot to choose from.  My favorites are Pompom, Incurve, Cushion, and Football. Two other varieties look like an explosion.  Look up the pictures on Google, and you will find all thirteen.  Bluestone Perennials is a good online source.  Mums like full to one half day sun.

Now we get down to how to plant all these flowers, so they do well in pots and in the ground.  After digging the hole, whether large or small, I put in a generous layer of Black Gold® Natural & Organic Garden Soil.  Then I mix some more garden soil into the dug dirt, put the roots in, and fill in with the remaining soil.  My soil is heavy clay, and really needs this amendment.  The final step is to sprinkle some Osmocote, the best fertilizer I have ever used, on top of the soil.  When planting bulbs in the fall, be sure and plant daffodils and tulips six to eight inches deep.

For containers, fill with just the Black Gold Potting soil, plant your plant, indoors or out, and put a little Osmocote on top.  Remember, the little petunia you buy at the store, will get very big, in a pot.

Now you will have color in your garden!

About Teri Keith


Garden columnist, Teri Keith, has gardened for over 50 years in her home state of Indiana. She served as a longtime IGC nursery manager specializing in annuals and perennials in Bloomington, Indiana and still gardens with passion. Each year she plants and maintains over 50 flower containers, many gardens, and a large collection of lilacs.

 

 

Summer Color by Mike Darcy

With the cool and rainy wet spring that we had here in the Pacific Northwest, most plants seemed to be about two weeks behind what would have been their ‘normal’ schedule. The weather delayed many gardeners from doing what would be some of their early spring chores. Not only was the weather not conducive for working in the garden, but the soil was too wet and muddy from all the rain.  Then in May, spring arrived with warm sunny days, and it was as if plants exploded with growth and bloom. Suddenly plants were no longer two weeks behind schedule but were on schedule.

As I walk around my own garden, as well as other gardens that I have recently visited, I am in awe of all the color that I see. Most gardeners always have room for another plant and the following are some of my favorites for summer color. Many of the plants that I use for color are in containers and I have found that adding a mulch across the top of the soil is a benefit to helping the plants thrive. Black Gold Natural & Organic Garden Compost Blend is an ideal mulch to help retain moisture. Another option is Black Gold Natural & Organic Just Coir which has excellent water holding capacity.

Hardy fuchsias would have to be near the top of the list for summer color. There is such a wide variety to choose from with size and color of the flower and the growth habit of the plant. Some will get quite tall, often up to six feet or more in one season, while the height of many stays in a three-foot range. Some varieties will even hug the ground and grow as a ground cover. Plant tags will often say sun to shade exposure, I have found they do best with some protection from the hot afternoon sun. One of my favorites is Fuchsia ‘Debron’s Smokey Blues’.

The flowers on Abutilon ‘Red Tiger’ do not look real but look like a fine stained glass art piece. This is a shrub and in a mild northwest winter, it will survive. A large plant in full bloom is stunning.

If there was ever a plant that was a work horse for blooming, I think it would have to be the dahlia. Most dahlias will begin flowering in June and there will be non-stop bloom until frost. The color range is vast and there is almost every color except blue. The flowers are also variable in their shape as is evident by the photos. These pictures were taken last summer in the trial garden of the Portland, (OR), Dahlia Society which is located on the ground of Swan Island Dahlias in Canby, OR. These photos give a good example of the wide range of color and shape of flowers. Dahlias also make excellent cut flowers.

Our summer deck would not be complete without several containers of Salvia. Keep the flower stems picked when the blooms are gone, and many will bloom throughout the summer. Two of my favorites are Salvia ‘Black & Blue’ and Salvia ‘Amistad’. The flowers on ‘Black & Blue’ tend to be cobalt blue and ‘Amistad’ has flowers that are deep purple. Both are magnets for butterflies and hummingbirds,

Sometimes, I think it is fun to grow plants that are known not to be winter hardy, but nevertheless will perform well during the summer. The Princess Flower, (Tibouchina), is one such flower. It will bloom with purple flowers all summer and into the fall. It will not survive our winters outside and so mentally; I consider it an annual. It is fast growing and flowering can be profuse. Excellent for growing in a container.

I realize that I have barely touched the list of plants for summer color, but the above-mentioned ones should all be readily available and easy to grow. Perhaps one is new to you, and you will give it a try. Most gardeners are always trying something new. Who knows, it might just become a favorite!

About Mike Darcy


Mike lives and gardens in a suburb of Portland, Oregon where he has resided since 1969. He grew in up Tucson, Arizona where he worked at a small retail nursery during his high school and college years. He received his formal education at the University of Arizona where he was awarded a Bachelor of Science Degree in Horticulture, and though he values his formal education, he values his field-experience more. It is hard to beat the ‘hands on’ experience of actually gardening, visiting gardens, and sharing information with other gardeners. Mike has been involved with gardening communications throughout his adult life. In addition to garden writing, he has done television gardening shows in Portland, and for over 30 years he hosted a Saturday radio talk show in Portland. Now he writes, speaks, gardens and continues to share his love of gardening. To be connected to the gardening industry is a bonus in life for Mike. He has found gardeners to be among the friendliest and most caring, generous people. Consequently, many of his friends he has met through gardening.

Pollinators in a Pinch by Teri Keith

Honeybees, (Apis milliflera) are in trouble in North America, and gardeners, farmers, beekeepers and industrial agriculture are in danger of losing their services. The decline has been going on since the 1940s. Factors include habitat degradation, introduced predators like giant wasps, climate change, and introduced parasites and diseases to name a few.

Honeybees are eusocial insects. That is, they have a tight-knit social order and caste system that revolves around a single queen who provides the offspring for the succeeding generations. The entire colony is powered by nectar and pollen collected from flowers in the vicinity of the hive. In 2005-2006 beekeepers noted that worker bees were quitting millions of hives, presumably dying as a result. This is termed Colony Collapse Disorder and its causes are still being investigated. Under suspicion are two mite species that can infect and kill entire colonies.

Honeybees are not natives of the New World.  They were carried west by Old World settlers, clerics and explorers. They are highly efficient pollinators and they make and store honey as well.  Honeybees are not the only organism that can pollinate plants.  Birds, bats, ants, beetles, butterflies and moths, and native bees can all do it: they just do not tend to go after one species of plant at a time.

We now know now that there are literally thousands of other species of wild native bees, flies, wasps, ants and many others. One of them will pollinate a plant for you if you ask it nicely or at least make it feel welcome around your garden.

  • Plant native perennial flowers that will provide the garden with a constant range of flowers lasting from spring into fall. Here are some suggestions: Spring blooners – crocus, hyacinth, borage, calendula and lilac; Summer- bloomers – bee balm, cosmos, echinacea, snapdragon, foxglove and hosta; Fall bloomers– zinnia, sedum, aster goldenrod, and milkweed.
  • Blossom colors Bees prefer white, yellow and blue blooms. Birds like red, orange and white. Bright, vivid colors, including red, yellow and purple, draw butterflies.
  • Plant a few flowering shrubs nearby. This will attract birds and more types of potential pollinators.
  • To attract ground-nesting bees (e.g., bumblebees, miner bees or sweat bees) make sure there is a few clear, sunny, well-drained patches of loose soil. Such areas should not be mulched or covered in any way.
  • Lay a shallow plate or two to collect rain or runoff and keep your pollinators happy.
  • Carpenter bees are good pollinators, and are attracted to fence posts, wood siding, and old wooden sheds and outbuildings. Laying out or hanging up untreated lumber pieces will provide them with something to excavate.
  • Consider making pollinator condos. These consist of bundles of small tubes of varying diameters (generally ¼ inch or less. Bamboo, hollow reeds, hollow weed stems, paper straws stems are common materials. They are often made with a small roof to keep them dry.

Photo credit USDA Forest Service

For a good start visit, “Gardening for Pollinators” in the Forest Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture website. https://www.fs.usda.gov/managing-land/wildflowers/pollinators/gardening

Honeybees have been successful because they can make a living on a wide range of plants over the growing season. Some other species can do the same, but others are active over only a short time period and still others may confine their activities to a limited set of plants.

A few comments:

Please note that native goldenrods and common milkweed are favored pollinator targets. Monarch butterflies rely on milkweed both as a source of food and protection against predators.

I could not help noticing the repetitive refrain that ran through much of the source material for this piece, viz: “This (name species) does not sting! That is incorrect as written. If it has a stinger or a formidable set of mandibles, it will sting or bite when threatened, alarmed or trapped in a crease of sweaty flesh or clothing. Any person who is allergic to insect stings, and any child that is inexperienced around potentially stinging insects should be encourages to play elsewhere. This is also the reason I did not discuss attracting wasps or hornets.

Finally, to give all your hard work its best of success, remember Black Gold® lawn and garden products will be waiting at a local supply store. Find one on the Black Gold® website.

 

About Teri Keith


Garden columnist, Teri Keith, has gardened for over 50 years in her home state of Indiana. She served as a longtime IGC nursery manager specializing in annuals and perennials in Bloomington, Indiana and still gardens with passion. Each year she plants and maintains over 50 flower containers, many gardens, and a large collection of lilacs.

Petunias Are Glorious plants By Teri Keith

Petunias Are Glorious Container Plants

It is time to plan your 2023 container garden, so start picking out which of the fabulous annuals available, but check out the petunias first.  The petunias we know today are a far cry from those that first appeared in 19th century gardens. Two species had been discovered in South America in the mid-1700’s: White-flowered Petunia axillaris and purple-flowered Petunia violacea. These were introduced into Europe in the early 1800’s.  Soon breeders in Germany and England began crossing them.  The result was the ‘garden petunias’, a group of plants in new colors and larger flowers. Referred to as Petunia x hybrid, the plants were not hybrids, as we know the term; they were chance crossings of species.  Double flowers occurred in only 20 to 30 percent of the plants grown from seed, the rest would be large singles. It took until the 20th century for hybridizers to formally bring Mendelian genetics, to bear on petunia plant breeding.

Now they come as packed doubles, looking like small peonies, ruffled petals, striped, spotted, new colors, and with different colored edges.

There are now several types of petunias.  All, except milliflora, have single or double flowers.

  • Grandifloras have 3 to 4 inch diameter blooms.
  • Multifloras have smaller flowers, 2 inches diameter; produce more abundantly, with sturdier flowers that withstand rain better.
  • Floribundas are the combination of top two, with the size, abundance, and sturdiness of both. Sounds like the best pick.
  • Milliflora have small, around 1 inch in diameter, and do not need cutting back.
  • Wave petunias are the last, and cascade over the sides of your containers. They also can be used as a ground cover, some as large as 10 feet square.  Waves will tolerate drier weather, and do not need dead heading.  Waves get 4 to 6 inches tall.

The colors of petunias range from, red, white, purple, lavender, pink, peach, orange, rose, yellow, salmon, green, blue, and yes black.  The last two colors took years of breeding.

Now, to some of the best varieties, available today.  Our gardeners from the past would be blown away by these flowers.  Look on the web to see where to buy them.

‘Black Cherry’ has deep red flowers, with black centers, and ‘Bordeaux’ pale lavender, with deep purple veins and centers.

‘Black Cat’ has velvety, true black flowers, and gets 12 inches tall.

‘Night Sky’ is one of the most unusual petunias, purple, with white spots.  Does well in baskets,

 

‘Limelight’ has magenta flowers, with lime green edges, and is 10 inches tall.

‘Purple Pirouette’ is one of my favorite petunias, with ruffled, double purple flowers and bright white edges.  It is 10 to 15 inches tall.

‘Wave Blue’ has bright, true blue, 2-inch flowers.  Gorgeous in a large container, or as a 3 to 4 foot groundcover.

Romantica ‘Isabella Red’ is one of the striped petunias, with intense red blooms and yellow stripes.

The Supertunia ‘Mini Vista’ series, have small 2-inch blooms, and are perfect for hanging baskets, growing 2 feet long.  They come in yellow, white, scarlet, white with purple stripes, velvet purple, and more.  Unlike the other petunias, they do not need cutting back.

The ‘Vogue Series’ has beautiful double flowers in shades of purple, pink, red, white, lavender with deep purple veins, and lastly one I have never seen anywhere else, having deep magenta petals, with light green ovals, not stripes.

And lastly ‘Crazytunia Mayan Sunset’, has yellow throats and bright rose edges.

Of course, these are not all of the wonderful petunias available.  Many of these, and more, are available online, as well as nurseries and stores.

Plant your petunias using Black Gold® Potting Mixes, such as  Black Gold® All Purpose Potting Mix, or  Black Gold® Natural and Organic Cocoblend Potting Mix.  Sprinkle with Osmocote Fertilizer, and repeat every 6 weeks.

Petunias like full sun, but can take about 1/3 shade.  Cut them back by 1/3 every 4 weeks, to keep new flowers growing, and be sure to hit the local flower sellers early to get the best ones.

Happy gardening.

 

About Teri Keith


Garden columnist, Teri Keith, has gardened for over 50 years in her home state of Indiana. She served as a longtime IGC nursery manager specializing in annuals and perennials in Bloomington, Indiana and still gardens with passion. Each year she plants and maintains over 50 flower containers, many gardens, and a large collection of lilacs.

Hanging Baskets by Mike Darcy

Hanging baskets and the month of May seem to go together. On a recent visit to several different garden centers, the selection of colorful hanging baskets was vast. It was not that many years ago that fuchsia baskets were the most common, but that is not the case today. Yes, there are certainly fuchsia baskets but there are so many more options available. Many of the baskets today, do not have just one type of plant, but multiple different plants in any one basket.

Calibrachoa Photo by Mike Darcy

If I had to pick one plant that I saw consistently in multiple baskets, it would be calibrachoa. Whether planted singly or with other plants, this petunia relative is ideal for trailing in baskets or pots and blooms all summer. Plants in garden centers are blooming now and with the wide range of colors available, it is easy to pick specific flower colors. Other plants that are widely used include, petunias, verbena, begonias, fuchsias, bacopa, geraniums, and lobelia.

Petunia ‘Night Sky’ Photo by Mike Darcy

Before making a purchase, consider where the basket will be in the garden. There are baskets made for sun, for shade, and for a sun/shade mix. There are two choices in purchasing hanging baskets, buying one that is already made, or making one yourself. Keep in mind that the already made baskets have probably been in somewhat of a controlled environment and might need a little extra care until they get established. For example, a basket made for a sunny location, might not have been in a full sun location and so it may need some protection on hot sunny days until it becomes adjusted to its new  environment.

Calibrachoa Photo by Mike Darcy

Making your own basket can be a fun project and you get to pick exactly the plants that you want. Making a basket is also a good way to get kids involved. Once you have selected the container, use Black Gold® Moisture Supreme Container Mix as your potting mix. This mix has excellent water retention qualities and on hot summer days, hanging baskets can dry out quickly. Select your plants and place them closer together than they would normally be in a flower bed. This will give you a blooming basket sooner than if the plants are spread apart.

Geranium, Calibrachoa, and Lobelia Photo by Mike Darcy

An herb basket can be ideal if a kitchen door is close by. Try planting basil in the center and plant thyme along the sides. This can be both beautiful and functional.

Watering and fertilizing are both key to keeping baskets looking good all summer. Being exposed to the elements, especially the sun and wind, baskets can become dry quickly. They will often need to be watered once a day. The city where I live has had a hanging basket program for many years and a maintenance is contracted to water them once a day, even if it rains. As the season progresses, the plants will get thick with leaves and the leaves can prevent the rain from reaching the soil. Because the plant is being watered so often, nutrients are often leeched out and need to be replenished. Fertilize weekly with a water-soluble plant fertilizer.

Fuchsia autumnale with red impatiens Photo by Mike Darcy

The choices for a basket are limitless. Try something new and enjoy your creation all summer!

 

 

About Mike Darcy


Mike lives and gardens in a suburb of Portland, Oregon where he has resided since 1969. He grew in up Tucson, Arizona where he worked at a small retail nursery during his high school and college years. He received his formal education at the University of Arizona where he was awarded a Bachelor of Science Degree in Horticulture, and though he values his formal education, he values his field-experience more. It is hard to beat the ‘hands on’ experience of actually gardening, visiting gardens, and sharing information with other gardeners. Mike has been involved with gardening communications throughout his adult life. In addition to garden writing, he has done television gardening shows in Portland, and for over 30 years he hosted a Saturday radio talk show in Portland. Now he writes, speaks, gardens and continues to share his love of gardening. To be connected to the gardening industry is a bonus in life for Mike. He has found gardeners to be among the friendliest and most caring, generous people. Consequently, many of his friends he has met through gardening.

Camellias in the Garden by Mike Darcy

Camellias have been a part of American gardens for several hundred years. Native plants to China, Japan, and SE Asia, some plants were probably brought to England in the 1700’s. At this time, they were primarily grown in conservatories or greenhouses. Camellias would be grown in containers taken outdoors in the summer and back to a protected location for the winter. In probably the early 1800’s, they began to appear in the United States. They quickly became popular in the southern US because it became known that they were not quite as winter tender as had been previously believed. In many southern states, Camellias would thrive as shrubs in the garden.

 

Today, camellias are found in many regions in the US except some of the coldest. With thousands of varieties to choose from, some are more winter hardy than others and a local garden center is a good place to check out which varieties they carry. The bloom shape and color range of camellias is vast. Over the years, it seems as though camellias have had a love/hate relationship with gardeners. They have been very popular, then they went into a decline, and now seem to be staging a strong comeback.

 

While there are probably overt 200 different species, the two that are most widely planted are Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua. These two species would also be the most prevalent in garden centers. As a general rule, the japonica type is what most gardeners have in mind and is what they think of when they hear the word camellia. Some names to look for are; ‘Bob Hope’, deep red with gold stamens, ‘Kramer’s Supreme’, very large red peony shape flower, ‘Carter’s Sunburst’, large pink flowers with deep pink stripe, The japonica types usually have a peak blooming season in late March and April. Bloom times can vary greatly depending on the particular variety so be sure to check the plant label tag.

 

Photo by Mike Darcy

The sasanqua types are also popular, but usually have smaller flowers and bloom in late fall and early winter. ‘Yuletide’ is a popular red that usually blooms during the Christmas holiday season. The flowers are single but can be profuse and continue to bloom for several months. Many of sasanqua types can be easily trained to espalier on a wall or trellis. In my garden, I have the sasanqua variety ‘Setsugekka’ trained on a trellis. It has a long season of bloom during the winter and is covered in single white flowers.

 

Camellias like a similar environment to that of rhododendrons. While there are many examples of them being planted in full sun, I believe they prefer some shade from the hot afternoon sun. They like a well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Black Gold Natural & Organic Garden Compost Blend would be a good choice at time of planting. Also, Black Gold Natural & Organic Cocoblend Potting Mix would be a good choice to use in areas that might be susceptible to particularly drying conditions. Camellias are often planted under the protection of trees with roots that might be robbing a camellia of moisture. Coir, used in this mix, has excellent moisture retention properties. Newly planted camellias will need supplemental water during the summer months. On older and established plants, supplemental watering may not be necessary. Sometime due to space considerations, pruning may be required and if so, it should be done right after flowering.

photo by Mike Darcy

April is an excellent month to plant camellias and many plants will be in bloom so selecting the right color and bloom form is easy. As mentioned earlier, the selection available is vast and garden centers usually have their best selections at this time. The delicate looking flowers of camellias can be deceiving to the tough and easy to grow plants that they are. Camellias also make excellent plants for container gardening.

About Mike Darcy


Mike lives and gardens in a suburb of Portland, Oregon where he has resided since 1969. He grew in up Tucson, Arizona where he worked at a small retail nursery during his high school and college years. He received his formal education at the University of Arizona where he was awarded a Bachelor of Science Degree in Horticulture, and though he values his formal education, he values his field-experience more. It is hard to beat the ‘hands on’ experience of actually gardening, visiting gardens, and sharing information with other gardeners. Mike has been involved with gardening communications throughout his adult life. In addition to garden writing, he has done television gardening shows in Portland, and for over 30 years he hosted a Saturday radio talk show in Portland. Now he writes, speaks, gardens and continues to share his love of gardening. To be connected to the gardening industry is a bonus in life for Mike. He has found gardeners to be among the friendliest and most caring, generous people. Consequently, many of his friends he has met through gardening.

Spring Ephemerals by Teri Keith

I always feel like the Winter Solstice is an emotional turning point that comes each year when it’s needed most.  The world stops darkening and the sun begins its long climb back to summer.  It is accompanied by winter festivities that celebrate (directly or indirectly) the great turnaround.  When our kids were small, spring hikes were a yearly occurrence.  Nearby nature preserves, state parks and even city parks and secluded woody hollows sometimes had amazing displays of spring wildflowers. At some point I decided we could have a spring wildflower display in our own yard.  After all, how hard could it be?  Those things are natives and grow everywhere!

Those wildflowers, known as spring ephemerals, are a somewhat unusual, but time honored, gang of plants.  They are perennial woodland plants that are mainly found in the eastern U.S. and Canada. They emerge quickly in the spring, when sunlight warms the soil, but leaf canopies have not yet cut off the sunlight. Ephemerals quickly bloom and produce seed.  Plant stems and leaves will wither back to their underground parts (roots, rhizomes or bulbs) for the remainder of the year.  Fallen leaves provide mulch for the plants and the leaves break down, enriching the soil and provide a food base for detritivores and potential pollinating insects.

Here are some common native spring ephemerals:

  • Spring Beauty
  • Cutleaf Toothwort
  • Dutchman’s Breeches
  • Twinleaf
  • Bloodroot
  • Celandine Poppy
  • Shooting Star

Spring ephemerals are woodland plants that live around the base of deciduous hardwood trees. Soils tend to be rich in organic material with a crumbly texture.  Dry, sandy soils or heavy wet clay soils a generally unsuitable for ephemerals, except shooting stars that need well-drained soil.

I like to plant in fall, while the soil is still warm. Add a top dressing of compost, plus a layer of shredded leaf mulch. Depending on the species and the nursery, you may be planting seeds, bulbs, corms or starts. If there are trees around your beds, plant them near the base.  You plants are unlikely to flower the first year, just take care of them and they will do the rest.

Bearing in mind that your ephemerals will spend only a short time entertaining you, you will need to plant some companion plants.  Shade or semi shade perennials are a good bet.

Still, finding a good site for your new ephemeral garden may be a challenge.  Try to find a location that has partial sun/shade in early spring. Do not worry about existing trees or shrubs. By the time they leaf out, your ephemerals should be done flowering for the year. Most of the plants mentioned above like a rich neutral to slightly acidic soil.  If you have moved into a new housing subdivision, you may be forced to deal with clay subsoil that will require amending with compost and fertilizer before you can plant.  Please consider the Black Gold™ line of soil amendments and compost products for your needs.

Soil drainage is another important factor.  Virginia bluebells can tolerate a wet site, while others like shooting star quickly die off on poorly drained sites.  Digging sand into a poorly drained area may help a bit, but for a really wet soil, you should either apply some sort of positive drainage method or find another site.

Some plants can be readily started from seeds, corms, rhizomes or bulbs.  Rue anemone starts well from seeds and spreads by reseeding.  Others like trillium are best started by dividing an existing plant (no poaching).  They can be started by seed, but it may take a few years to flower.

Finally, you do not want to be feeding the local small mammal population more than you already are.  Rabbits, chipmunks, mice, voles, squirrels and others can be a real threat to your ephemerals.  A few years back, we tried growing a lady’s slipper. It did not last the summer before being consumed.  The same occurred with a Helleborine orchid. Spring beauty and trillium are favored sources of food, but most of the plants on our list have toxic stems, roots or foliage.

Of course you want to know how we made out with our own ephemerals.  The orchids were a flop.  So were shooting stars and trout lily. We planted trillium obtained from a local nursery under an oak-leaved hydrangea and snowball bush and they do reasonably well in both locations.  Celandine poppy and Dutchman’s breeches also do well under the snowball bush.  Virginia bluebells have done very well everywhere we planted them.  Of course we still visit the woods in spring, but we do have a small spring show of our own.

 

About Teri Keith


Garden columnist, Teri Keith, has gardened for over 50 years in her home state of Indiana. She served as a longtime IGC nursery manager specializing in annuals and perennials in Bloomington, Indiana and still gardens with passion. Each year she plants and maintains over 50 flower containers, many gardens, and a large collection of lilacs.

Digging Dirt by Teri Keith

Soil is the heart of your garden.  Wherever you decide to set up a garden, you should know that there may be soil factors or problems that you will have to deal with in order to get the most benefit and enjoyment from your efforts. Soil is what is left behind after a long and complex interaction of sun, wind, water, and plant life and soil organisms on some sort of parent material. The latter could be the native bedrock, materials deposited by wind and water, organic material and so forth.

Most undisturbed soils have distinct, well-defined layers that taken together form a soil profiles.  These extend from the ground surface down to native bedrock or to a depth at which soil formation processes are no longer active. Soil profiles describe individual soil types, and provide information regarding fertility, texture, and color, and organic content, moisture holding capacity, erosion potential, chemical characteristics, and suitability for various land uses.

In the United States, soils are the province of the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). The USDA provides services not only for farmers, but to gardeners as well. In most U.S. locations, USDA maintains a county or regional presence through Natural Resources Conservation Services (NRCS) offices. These are often excellent sources of local soil information in your area such as soil maps, soil descriptions and other resources such as soil testing.

A soil profile is typically displayed as:

  • O Horizon This is seldom present in recently disturbed soils. The O Horizon provides a habitat for small invertebrates and fungi that process dead organic materials (detritivores), and enrich the soil.

  • A Horizon (Topsoil) The A Horizon is true soil in which most seeds germinate. It reaps the benefits of O Horizon detritivore activity plus the activity of earthworms that carry bits of dead organic material into the soil to feed, aerating and further enriching it.

 

  • B Horizon (subsoil) The subsoil is just below the topsoil and just above the C Horizon or native bedrock. It contains fewer soluble minerals and less organic material than topsoil, but it is also a place of deposition of soluble minerals and mineral salts.
  • C Horizon This layeris devoid of any organic material and is made up overwatered broken bedrock.

In most cases it is preferable to make the best of the soil you have.  It came with your house, you own it and you need to take care of it. Using deadly chemicals to control weeds, bugs, moles and other annoyances can backfire by killing off beneficial pollinators, beneficial soil bacteria and fungi; detritivores that eat dead organic material and earthworms, not to mention songbirds and small mammals.  Bringing in topsoil is expensive.  The soil may have been to keep the cycle going illegally stripped from another building site.

Any kind of topsoil can be transformed into healthy garden soil with dedication and work. Organic matter needs to be replenished frequently to keep the cycle going.

Here are some ways you can improve your soil.

  • Get a soil test Have your soil tested at the beginning of your project, then every few years thereafter to determine what additional nutrients are needed to promote plant growth and production.

  • Add Compost posed organic material, and it is a wonderful soil additive to improve soil structure, enable them to better retain nutrients and water and keep the soil loose.
  • Mulch Mulching the soil surface helps to keep the soil cool and reduce moisture loss from evaporation.

  • Avoid soil compaction Soil that is hard and compacted will inhibit seedling growth. This can be alleviated by breaking the garden up into smaller beds connected by footpaths.
  • Rotating cover crops. Planting cover crops of nitrogen fixing plants like clover or alfalfa on a portion of your garden beds. This will benefit the doily by increasing fertility. After overwintering, these annual plants will act as mulch

In addition, don’t forget that Black Gold® has a complete line of soil amendments, soil conditioners, and specialty potting mixes. Black Gold® is your indispensible ally in caring for the heart of your garden.

 

About Teri Keith


Garden columnist, Teri Keith, has gardened for over 50 years in her home state of Indiana. She served as a longtime IGC nursery manager specializing in annuals and perennials in Bloomington, Indiana and still gardens with passion. Each year she plants and maintains over 50 flower containers, many gardens, and a large collection of lilacs.

Prepping for Spring by Mike Darcy

I like to refer to February as the month to get ready for spring. Most of us have some garden tasks that we have yet to complete, and this is a good time to get them done. Living in the Pacific Northwest, this winter has been a mix of temperatures, both mild and very cold, (for us). In late January/early February, temperatures dipped into the low 20’s and we will have to wait until spring to really discover what damage was done to our plants.

Years ago, I was given a Musa basjoo, often called ‘Hardy Banana’ because the tops will die to the ground after a freeze, but the roots will survive, and new banana shoots appear in the spring. Musa basjoo is fast-growing and likes a soil rich in humus. When planting, add Black Gold Natural & Organic Compost Blend into the soil.

Photo above, is what my plants looked like after a frost. This was a major winter cleanup chore because I cut all the stalks to ground level and then put the leaves in my compost bin. This is a rather barren spot right now, but I know what it will look like in late spring and summer.

Hardy fuchsias are treated differently. I have found that after freezing weather, the leaves on hardy fuchsias all turn brown and the stems look as though they are dead. However, it is difficult to tell just how far back the stems have been killed. If hardy fuchsias need to be pruned because of space considerations, I suggest waiting until later in the season because I have often found that on many of the stems that I thought were dead, new shoots will appear.

While it is too late to plant bulbs of Galanthus, well known by their name ‘Snowdrop’, some garden centers will carry pots of blooming plants which can be planted now. Bulbs should be planted in the fall. These are among the first bulbs to bloom in late winter/early spring. Plant them in an area where they can naturalize such as under a shrub or in a woodland setting. They like a moist soil and adding Black Gold Natural & Organic Garden Compost Blend at time of planting would be a benefit.

We should also think about what, I would call some of the more mundane tasks. Before pruning, check pruners and make sure they are sharp and well oiled. Shovels, rakes, and trowels should be cleaned. February is also a good month to get the lawn mower tuned up, so it is ready to mow once spring arrives.

While the February weather is not always ideal for working outside, we usually have some days, or partial days, when there are sun breaks. As you walk around your garden, when you see new growth emerging, check for signs of slug damage. I have seen many very small slugs in the garden, and they can do significant damage on newly emerged plants. Take appropriate control measures.

 

The garden is meant to be enjoyed, don’t let the tasks overwhelm you!

 

Happy gardening!

About Mike Darcy


Mike lives and gardens in a suburb of Portland, Oregon where he has resided since 1969. He grew in up Tucson, Arizona where he worked at a small retail nursery during his high school and college years. He received his formal education at the University of Arizona where he was awarded a Bachelor of Science Degree in Horticulture, and though he values his formal education, he values his field-experience more. It is hard to beat the ‘hands on’ experience of actually gardening, visiting gardens, and sharing information with other gardeners. Mike has been involved with gardening communications throughout his adult life. In addition to garden writing, he has done television gardening shows in Portland, and for over 30 years he hosted a Saturday radio talk show in Portland. Now he writes, speaks, gardens and continues to share his love of gardening. To be connected to the gardening industry is a bonus in life for Mike. He has found gardeners to be among the friendliest and most caring, generous people. Consequently, many of his friends he has met through gardening.

Pruning The Garden in Winter

 

As for me, I believe that pruning is without doubt the biggest (dreadfulest) but most important job in the winter garden.  Young trees and shrubs need pruning then while the branches are bare.  The rules for pruning flowering shrubs depends on when they bloom.  Spring blooming shrubs (i.e. quince and viburnums that bloom on last year’s wood should never be cut in winter. But only after they bloom.  Summer and fall blooming shrubs such as Hydrangeas will bloom on new wood and can then be cut to the ground in winter.

General Pruning Rules

Be sure to use the right pruning tools for the job. Small pruning saws are best for larger branches.

The first step is to remove all dead wood at its base.  Then look to see if any branches are crossing and rubbing together. If you find crossing branches, cut one off leaving the best branch to grow.  The next step for almost all non-evergreen shrubs is to cut one-third of the oldest branches to the ground every three years.  This will ensure a new crop of younger shoots each year and help to eliminate pests that often attack the old wood first. A perfect example of this is the lilac.  A common mistake I have seen is to cut some shrubs into forms that are unnatural to their basic shape.  The worst offenders try to prune forsythia into shapes such as globes or rectangles.  There again, give forsythias room to spread and follow the three-year cycle.  If you have a small area buy a small shrub to fill it.  There are a few slow-growing shrubs that do not need pruning at all, as far as its shape is concerned.  The most common plant in our area is the Star Magnolia (Magnolia stellata).  Except for dead wood and rubbing branches leave it alone.

Pruning Winter Evergreens

Rhododendrons are and azalea

Pruning rhododendrons and azaleas and is a whole different story.  There is a difference between them relating to pruning, other than flower, leaf, and shrub size.   The difference is where the flower buds are located on the branch and when to prune.  Rhododendron flowers are found just above the leaf rosette and pruning consists of removing the old flowers, after spring blooming, while not hurting the leaf rosette just below it. That is where next year’s buds will form. Aside from removing dead wood, never prune them in winter for fear of removing their spring flowers.

Azaleas, on the other hand, form new buds all along the branch, so they will tolerate some light winter pruning.  Just remove any out-of-place branches, but not all the way back. Then you will have new flowers next spring.

Remember both plants require acidic soil.  If your plants start to look weak or yellow you need a soil additive. Copperas (hydrated ferrous sulfate) an inexpensive powder comes in small bags. Follow the instructions and add to a liquid mix for acid-loving plants.

Pruning Roses

Be sure to remove any dead or dying branches before you really start pruning living branches.

Roses are in a group by themselves. The main rule is to get rid of the old wood to discourage pests and encourage new growth (= more roses).  There are two groups of roses, one that blooms on last year’s wood and one that blooms on this year’s new growth. With both groups remove the oldest and weakest canes.  The oldest canes tend to be dark brown and woody. They need to go. The new-growth roses should have one-third of all old branches cut to the ground to keep the plant from pouring energy into maintaining old growth, and it should be done in the very early spring just when the buds begin to swell.  For a fuller-looking plant cut some of the inward-growing branches to open up the center.  For roses that bloom only on one-year-old wood (and I do not think there are many of these left) look at the stems.  They should be brownish-green.  Leave them and cut out anything older, but be sure to let new growth come along for next year. (Article: When is the Best Time to Prune Roses)

I also caution against the dreaded rose rosette virus.  (Article: Best Diseases-Resistant Roses) If you see any misshapen or oddly colored growth dig up the plant and burn it or put it into a large plastic bag to put in the trash. Even if everything looks okay douse your pruners with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol between each rose.  I encourage everyone to go online and see what bad growth looks like.

I also recommend going online to see the gorgeous new varieties of all the plants I have talked about, for example, Hydrangea paniculata images and a world of gorgeous shrubs will appear.

I hope I have given you enough work to keep you out of trouble and I haven’t even gotten to young trees.  So get going and happy gardening.

About Teri Keith


Garden columnist, Teri Keith, has gardened for over 50 years in her home state of Indiana. She served as a longtime IGC nursery manager specializing in annuals and perennials in Bloomington, Indiana and still gardens with passion. Each year she plants and maintains over 50 flower containers, many gardens, and a large collection of lilacs.