“Any idea what kind of plant this is? It was given to my mom and looks pretty bad. We were also wondering if it’s ok to cut all of the brownish leaves off. Will It come back with new regrowth?” Question from Donna of West Chester, Pennsylvania
Answer: You have a Japanese Sago Palm (Cycas revoluta). It looks like it is struggling. Definitely remove the brown or dying leaves.
It will regrow with good care! These prickly cycads require lots of sunlight and very well-drained soil. During the winter months, they should be watered very little. Leaf browning can be caused by underwatering or overwatering–most often overwatering. If you are watering it a lot, give it a rest for at least three weeks. It should also be in a pot with drainage holes and a bottom saucer to catch water. Good potting mix will also help keep it happy. I recommend repotting it in Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix amended with added Perlite for drainage, if your mix looks old and depleted.
The drying leaves may also be caused by spider mites, a common pest of these cycads. Spider mites are tiny plant pests, and once you notice their damage, they are already numerous and a problem. The tops of leaves will look like they have little white spots across them. These are dead leaf cells that the mites have sucked dry. You might also see little webs on the leaves and stems of infected plants. To make sure you have mites, and to get an idea of population levels, take a clean piece of white paper, hold it beneath the leaves, then tap the leaves onto the paper. If you have mites, lots of tiny specs will fall. Eventually, they will start crawling around. These are spider mites!
If you think you have mites, remove the worst of the damaged leaves. Then spray, wash, and wipe the remaining stems and leaves thoroughly. Remove the top inch of potting soil and replace it with fresh. It also helps to wipe the container down, in case any mites have strayed. Finally, spray the plants with insecticidal soap or Neem oil. Continue to do the tap test and wipe and spray leaves as needed. In time you will overcome your mite problem.
Container gardening has always been a big part of my garden. and years ago what started out as a small grouping of pots on our deck, has continued to expand. Now I have about 150 containers throughout my garden. The plant selection varies, and I am always removing something that did not perform as well as expected by adding something new. However, even with all the changes, some things remain consistent and one of the constants is my fondness for Abutilon. I cannot remember a time when I have not had at least one Abutilon in a pot.
The common name for abutilons is parlor maple or flowering maple because the leaf has a maple shape and the plants grow well indoors or outdoors. Abutilon can also be called Chinese lantern because of the pendulous, lantern shape of the flowers. Species are native throughout the subtropics and tropics worldwide and most are evergreen. Some of the prettiest are from the Americas.
The Best Abutilons
The sizes, shapes, and colors of Abutilon flowers are quite variable. Some flowers are bell-shaped and face downward, while others are more open and face outward. Their blooming season is long, and once they begin to flower, they will continue to do so throughout the summer and into winter, if you bring them indoors. They come in shades of red, pink, yellow, white and/or orange. South American species are specially adapted for hummingbird and bat pollination.
Abutilon ‘Moonchimes’
Abutilon ‘Moonchimes’
The large, open, 2-inch flowers of Abutilon ‘Moonchimes’ are a delicate primrose yellow. The compact plants reach 2 to 3 feet and have dark green foliage. This is a lovely variety for summer containers.
Abutilon ‘Red Tiger’
Abutilon ‘Red Tiger’
My all-time favorite Abutilon is ‘Red Tiger’. The flowers on ‘Red Tiger’ almost look like a stained glass piece. The yellow flowers have scarlet-red veining, and the design is so intricate that it almost does not look real. It is definitely a conversation piece in the home or summer garden. If you have not grown Abutilon and are going to try one plant, this would be my choice!
Abutilon ‘Souvenir de Bonn’
The cultivar ‘Souvenir de Bonn’ has leaves that are edged in cream and pendulous, orange, bell-shaped flowers. This is a reliably good bloomer, and with the contrasting leave color, it makes an outstanding container plant. I suggest giving this one some protection from the hot summer sun.
Thompson’s Abutilon
The leaves of Abutilon pictum ‘Thompsonii’ are green flecked with yellow patterns. This is a vigorous species that originates from Brazil can reach 6 feet, where hardy. Its orange flowers veined with red are no less beautiful and stand out against its unique leaves.
Trailing Abutilon
Trailing Abutilon (Abutilon megapotamicum)
Abutilon megapotamicum is sometimes referred to as ‘Trailing Abutilon’ because, with pruning, it can be kept almost prostrate. The flowers are small but abundant and have large, red calyces and yellow petals. If left to grow where hardy, without trimming, this Brazilian native can reach up to 8 feet and is in constant bloom.
Abutilon ‘Nabob’
Abutilon ‘Nabob’
The Abutilon cultivar ‘Nabob’ has always performed well in my garden. It is tall, reaching 8 to 10 feet, where hardy, with very dark red flowers that attract hummingbirds. The leaves are very dark green.
Growing Abutilon
Here in the Pacific Northwest, Abutilon is not reliably winter hardy, but if the winter is mild, the plants will often survive as perennials and new shoots will emerge from the ground in the spring. Most survive in USDA Hardiness Zones 8-10. I would not consider outdoor potted plants as winter hardy, so I treat them as annuals if they are not brought indoors. And, if they survive winter, then that is a pleasant spring surprise.
Abutilon is fast growing and new shoots will be in bloom by summer. My pots get varying degrees of sun and shade. Some get full sun all day, and others receive full shade and some a mix of sun and shade. I have found that Abutilons seem to be very adaptable and thrive in full or partial sun, but they do not want to be in full shade. For pots in full sun, I plant them in Black Gold Waterhold Cocoblend Potting Mix because it is excellent for retaining moisture on a hot summer day. For pots in a partially sunny location, I plant them in Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix.
Abutilons are very easy to start from cuttings and that is an easy way to carry over plants from year to year. Take new tip cuttings, dip them in rooting hormone, place them in a moist potting mix, and they will root in no time. Pot them up and keep them indoors in bright, indirect light to keep them happy while they winter over. Whether in indoor containers or in the ground, abutilons make superb blooming plants.
After the holiday season is over and the poinsettias have been discarded, the home can seem to be rather bleak with no color from blooming plants. Having indoor color to brighten some of the dark and gloomy days we get in the winter months can give our spirits a boost while we wait for spring. In the time between now and the arrival of spring, a good way to fill the flower void is with the easy-to-grow, blooming house plant, Cape primrose (Streptocarpus spp.).
Cape Primrose Origins
The common name, Cape primrose, refers to the plant’s usually long-tubed, primrose-like flowers with South African Cape origins. But, it is not a true primrose. Instead, it’s in a plant group called gesneriads, in the family Gesneriaceae, and a relative of African violets. Cape primroses have an advantage over African violets in that they produce multiple large flowers on longer stems. Like African violets, they can bloom over a long period of time and come in colorful shades of blue, purple, pink, yellow, white and bicolors. They also have contrasting veins and/or throat colors for added appeal. There are many cultivated varieties, and many have ruffled edges for extra flounce.
Growing Cape Primroses
Many varieties of Streptocarpus have ruffled edges for extra flounce.
The location in the house is critical for Cape primroses to thrive and continue to bloom. Keep them in an area with bright, indirect light. They are sensitive to hot, direct sun but will not bloom without adequate light. They also require high humidity, so keep them away from a heating vent or outside door so as to minimize drafts. One humidifying method to try is placing the pots on a tray of crushed rock or small pebbles covered with water. This will keep the air around the plants humid while not over saturating the pots.
Most house plants either die or decline because of too much water, and Cape primrose is no exception. They should be watered thoroughly from the bottom, and the soil should be allowed to slightly dry out at the top before watering again. With too much water or lack of adequate drainage, the leaves will wilt and the base of the plant may rot.
Most Cape primrose hybrids also have large leaves, which tend to tear easily. If this happens, just cut off the damaged part. These are quite forgiving plants.
Most garden centers carry specific African violet fertilizers, which are also best for Cape primroses. Follow label directions and fertilize as needed.
Some Favorite Cape Primroses
False African Violet (Streptocarpus saxorum): Many small lilac-blue flowers are produced from densely foliated plants with small, succulent leaves.
Streptocarpus ‘Party Pinafore’: This variety boasts large, lilac-purple flowers with white lower lips striped with purple.
Streptocarpus ‘Bethan’: This cultivar has loads of medium-sized, pale violet-blue flowers with strong venation and white throats.
Streptocarpus ‘Seren’: Flowers of palest ivory with violet picotee edges and yellow throats bloom in profusion on these long-leaved plants.
Check out your local garden center that has a good selection of house plants, and you will most likely see Streptocarpus in bloom in an array of colors. There are even dwarf and trailing varieties. When it is too early to plant actual primroses (Primula spp.) outdoors, Cape primroses can be a good indoor substitute. And, when the weather warms, you can even place pots outdoors in brightly shaded spots for a bit of porch or patio color.
Why wait for flowering house plants to bloom for indoor color when you can have plants that always look vivid and dramatic? Some have foliage that’s so colorful their leaves look like a Mardi Gras parade. Just a few pots will bring dazzling delight to any room with good light.
These rainbow house plants come from tropical or subtropical regions and grow best in rooms with good humidity and warmth. Plant them in premium potting soil that holds water well. Then water and feed them, keep their leaves clean and sparkling, and they’ll paint living spaces with spirit-lifting color. The hottest of the rainbow hotties include the following bold house plants.
Rainbow House Plants
Jacob’s Coat
Jacob’s coat ‘Mosaica’ is a riot of color and grows well as a house plant or seasonal ornamental.
A native of the Pacific Islands, Jacob’s Coat (Acalypha wilkesiana) is a tropical shrub that makes a wonderful potted house specimen. It has standout multicolored evergreen foliage that typically comes in shades of white, green, pink, and red. Choice selections include the pink-, peach-, green-, and purple-leaved ‘Mosaica’ and peach- and orange-hued ‘Tiki Peach Whirl’. The plants can grow quite large and should be pruned to size as needed.
Chinese Evergreen
‘Two-Tone Moonstone’ is one of many wildly colorful Chinese evergreens.
The brilliant leaves of Chinese evergreen (Agleonema spp.) are boldly colorful. These low, lush plants originate from the humid tropics and subtropics of Asia where they survive in the forest understory. Two of our favorites for color include ‘Two Tone Moonstone’, with its pink and white leaves speckled with green, and the poinsettia-like ‘Red Zircon’, which has crimson-red leaves edged in green.
Begonias
Begonia T REX™ ‘St. Nick is one of the thousands of different begonias with cheerful leaves. (Image thanks to Terra Nova Nursery)
The variety of colors that can appear in a single begonia leaf are truly impressive. Species extend from subtropical to tropical regions across the Americas, Africa, and Asia where they exist in moist, forested habitats. They have been intensively bred, resulting in thousands of impressive cultivars, such Begonia ‘Martha Stewart’ with its gold-, chartreuse- and russet-leaves, and Terra Nova’s T REX™ ‘St. Nick, with a purple- and red-centered leaves decorated with green and silvery white spotting. Another good pick from Terra Nova is Begonia SHADE ANGEL™ ‘Aurora’ with its lustrous leaves that have hints of silvery blue, lavender, raspberry pink, and ivory.
Croton
Croton ‘Mammy’ has the bonus of curly extravagant leaves.
The leaves of croton (Codiaeum variegatum) are arguably the most colorful and visually diverse of all the plants in this list. Natural populations exist in the South Pacific and Australia where they grow in open forests and shrublands. The lush, glossy-leaved plants can take a little less water and have brilliantly patterned leaves that may have mixed shades of yellow, red, purple, white, and green. Some are broad-leaved and others elongated. We like ‘Mrs. Iceton’, with leaves of deep purple, rose, green, and yellow, ‘Lauren’s Rainbow’, with elongated leaves of purple, orange, green, and yellow, and the compact ‘Mammy’ with its curly multi-colored leaves.
Rose-Painted Calathea
Rose-painted calathea ‘Princess Jessie’ loves shade and always looks lovely.
Native to the forests of Brazil, rose-painted calathea (Calathea roseopicta) has broad, striped leaves of green, ivory, and rose. The compact plants always look and grow well in low-light areas of the home. Try the dark green, rose, and ivory ‘Princess Jessie’ (a name I like very much).
Ti Tree
Few house plants are as electric as ti tree!
The upright, lance-shaped leaves of ti tree (Cordyline fruticosa) come in lots of brilliant tropical shades. Like croton, it comes from the South Pacific and adjacent Australia where it survives in drier tropical forests. Specimens develop woody, trunk-like bases over time. Give them bright light and large pots that will allow their roots to grow freely. For color, we like the purple and magenta ‘Ruby’, and the green-, yellow- and pink-leaved ‘Morning Sunshine’.
Tricolor Prayer Plant
As the name suggests, the low-growing tricolor prayer plant (Stromanthe ‘Triostar’) has three-colored, lance-shaped leaves with bold markings of cream, rosy purple, and green. It originates from Brazilian rain forests and requires sufficient moisture and humidity for good growth.
Caring for Tropical House Plants
Aside from bright filtered sunlight, warmth, and humidity, these tropicals need plenty of rich, moisture-holding soil to dig their roots into. At planting time, provide them with containers that are several inches larger than their root balls. Make sure the pots have drainage holes at the bottom and deep saucers to catch excess water. Two of the best Black Gold mixes for substantial water-holding ability are Black Gold Waterhold Cocoblend Potting Mix, which is OMRI Listed and contains coconut coir, and Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix, which is our #1 best seller for house plants of all kinds. Keep the potting mix evenly moist, never wet, and fertilize regularly with an all-purpose fertilizer. Slow-release fertilizers are easier to apply and time-saving.
A collection of these rainbow house plants will bring spectacular looks to any indoor space. Forget about flowers! Planting with indoor foliage is the best way for busy gardeners to achieve neverending color.
“I seem to have a problem keeping my plants happy. What is a good amount of water for succulents?” Question from Becky of Cambridge, Nebraska
Answer: It depends on the time of year and climate. It is very easy to overwater indoor succulents, especially in the winter months. Overwatering leads to root and crown rot, real succulent killers.
Watering Succulents from Winter to Fall
In general, succulents require little to no water in winter. This mimics the natural dry season that they experience in the wild. During the growing months (spring through fall), give them limited water. I often water mine between two to four times a month, depending on how hot and dry it is. In drier weather, I water them well once a week, or four times a month.
“Do I need to cut off the stems after my orchid flowers fall off or will new flowers grow on the stems next year?” Question from Bonnie of Young, Arizona
Answer: It depends on the health and blooming stage of the flowering stem. If the stem/s are still green, prune off the spent flowers to about 1-inch above the closest node on towards the bast of the stem; this may encourage further flowering. If your spike/spikes are beginning to turn brown, prune them all the way back to the base of the plant. Always use clean, sharp shears to prune off old stems, and sterilize the shears in a 10% bleach solution before pruning another orchid. This will reduce the risk of cross-contamination if one of your orchids happens to have a disease.
Always keep a lookout for keikis. On occasion, certain common orchids will develop little plantlets on their flowering stems, called keikis. These can be nurtured, removed, and replanted as entirely new plants! (Click here to learn more about keiki removal.)
Once your orchid has finished flowering, it needs a rest before it will bloom again. The length between blooming will depend on the type of orchid you are growing. But, in general, slightly decrease the growing temperature for the orchid, and give it good care and fertilization. (Click here to learn more about how to get certain orchids to rebloom.)
Please let me know if you have any additional questions about the specific orchids you are growing!
“I have no sunlight in my home. I need plants that will thrive without direct sunlight. Any suggestions?” Question from Susan of Albuquerque, New Mexico
Answer: There are loads of low-light house plants that will thrive in indirect sun. Just be sure to set them all as close to a lit window as possible! Because of the dry air in your part of the country, I have also selected plants that will withstand low humidity. Here are some good picks for you to try:
Aspidistra
Cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior): As the name suggests, this large-leaved house plant is tough as nails. It will grow well in low light, low humidity, and can take irregular watering.
Fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata): Large, glossy, unusual leaves make this indoor tree a very attractive addition to the home. It is also a tough African native that likes partial shade and intermittent watering. Give this one a larger pot to grow in and space because it can easily reach several feet.
Dragon Tree (Dracaena marginata): This small, understory tree from Madagascar can take low light, drought, and dry air. Choose a pretty variety, like ‘Colorama’, which has red-striped leaves.
Sanseveria
Snake Plant (Sansevieria spp.): Also called mother-in-law’s-tongue, this succulent African native makes a beautiful addition to homes and will take low light and low humidity. For best looks give it filtered sun, room temperature, well-drained soil, and once-weekly water (twice-monthly water in winter). (Click here to learn more about growing snake plant.)
ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia): This is another semi-succulent African beauty with tropical good looks that grows very well in low light and drier air. Care for it as you would snake plant.
“I want to start some special African violets for friends. How do I divide or take cuttings from them? Question from Anna of Cheboygan, Michigan
Answer: You will be happy to learn that African violets are one of the easiest houseplants to propagate! The process does not even require rooting hormone.
Starting African Violets from Cuttings
Newly stuck African violet leaves in vermiculite.
All you have to do is take leaf cuttings from African violets and give them good care until they root and sprout. Simply cut healthy leaves from the base of the petiole (stem) and insert them in moist Black Gold Vermiculite. Maintain high humidity and keep them out of direct sunlight. After a month or so they should root. Then within a couple more weeks, new leaves will slowly develop from the petiole base. Once the sprouting African violets look like small plants, move them into small pots filled with Black Gold African Violet Mix. They should start growing happily straight away! I also encourage you to watch our video on African violet care below, to ensure your little plants grow to their fullest.
In the Pacific Northwest, where our winter days are often rainy and overcast, (some would say dark and gloomy), it is a bonus to have an indoor environment where plants grow and thrive. If the plants also have fragrant blooms, it’s even nicer.
The limiting factor for most of these floriferous house plants is the lack of adequate light, so if a spot in a sun room or near a bay window is available that would be ideal. I also refer to these plants as being double-duty, because they can be outdoors in the summer and then brought indoors for the winter. Most of the bloomers on this list have white or ivory flowers that are naturally moth pollinated and exude their most powerful fragrance at night.
Gardenia
Gardenia
There is a wide assortment of gardenias (Gardenia spp.) to chose from, with some being quite winter hardy here in the western part of the Pacific Northwest. I have had Gardenia ‘Frostproof’ (Gardeniajasminoides Frostproof’) for several years, and it blooms outside for most of the summer. While the flowers are small, they have the typical gardenia fragrance. I leave my plant outdoors, but it could also be a winter blooming house plant. Gardenia ‘Mystery’ (Gardeniajasminoides ‘Mystery’) is a double-flowered variety used by florists, and if given an indoor location with lots of light, it will make a very nice house plant.
Dwarf Citrus
Citrus blossoms are wonderfully fragrant and you can’t beat the fruits!
Dwarf citrus (Citrus spp.) are excellent choices for double-duty plants. Meyer lemon is probably the most widely planted, and if placed in a container of adequate size, it can live for many years. Citrus like heat and can be outside in full sun during the summer and then brought indoors for the winter. Meyer lemon will bloom with fragrant white flowers throughout the year and will also bear lemons at a fairly young age. If the plant has been outdoors all summer, spray it thoroughly with water before bringing it inside to wash off any insects that might be present. Be sure to bring the plant indoors before a frost. (Click here to learn more about growing indoor citrus.)
Pink Jasmine
Pink jasmine, (Jasminum polyanthum)
Another house plant is pink jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum). The vine produces masses of fragrant, star-like flowers that are reddish-pink on the outside, white on the inside, and intensely fragrant. This is a fairly reliable bloomer that flowers through most of the late winter and early spring. It is a fast grower and needs a small trellis for its twining stems to climb. Trim it regularly to keep it check.
Orange Jasmine
Orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata) is a compact plant with waxy white flowers that have an orange-blossom fragrance. Young plants start blooming early on. This is an easy-to-grow house plant that blooms reliably.
Madagascar Jasmine
Madagascar jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda, image by Scott Z.)
Often used in wedding bouquets because of its intensely fragrant white flowers, Madagascar jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda) is best grown as a house plant in cold climates. The vigorous evergreen vine needs something to twine up and likes humidity, so mist it on a regular basis. If given enough light, it will bloom indoors during the winter. The fragrance of the flowers will easily fill a room.
Pinwheelflower
Gardenia Crape Jasmine (Gardenia jasminoides), white flowers with green leaves
Like many of the other house plants listed, pinwheelflower (Tabernaemontana divaricata) has fragrant white flowers and evergreen foliage. The tender shrub is native to Southeast Asia but grows very well indoors in pots. It blooms the most in spring but may produce additional flowers throughout the year. The waxy white, blooms are most fragrant at night.
Over watering and poor drainage are common reasons for these house plants to diminish. Planting them in a premium potting mix that drains well will help ensure growing success. My mix of choice is premium Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix. It has ingredients to help with drainage in addition to added fertilizer that lasts for up to six months. Start a regular fertilization regime several months after potting.
In addition to giving them plenty of light, keep your plants away from dry heat sources, such as heating vents or a fireplace, as this will stress the plants and their foliage. Once your fragrant house plants start to bloom, you will be glad you planted them. Their flowers and scent brighten dreary winter days, making the indoors just a little more enjoyable.
