Mike Darcy – Black Gold

Earth Day 2025, Our Power, Our Planet

The month of April has a lot going for it, especially for gardeners! Even though the official date for the beginning of the spring season is in March. April is often the month that gardeners get into high gear because the weather is more predictably, what we might refer to as “gardening weather”.

April begins with a whimsical holiday with the first day being April Fool’s Day. Then on April 22, the day becomes more serious with the celebration of Earth Day. The idea of Earth Day is generally credited to Senator Gaylord Nelson of Wisconsin, who conceived the idea in 1969. The first official Earth Day was in 1970 and Senator Nelson, today, is often referred to as the ‘Father of Earth Day’, The purpose is to create awareness of the need to protect our planet and to offer suggestions for environmental protection. Gardeners can, and do, play a vital role in this movement. Most gardeners that I know are very aware of the practices that are positive to our earth and try to stay within these guidelines.

Biochar is probably not a well-known name in gardening circles, but its name and use is becoming more common. A sustainable alternative to perlite, biochar is used to optimize aeration. It is made from 100% natural, renewable forest products that include sawmill and lumber remnants that are typically burned or end up in landfills. Exposing the wood to high temperatures in a low oxygen environment creates pure carbon that captures and stores CO₂from being released into the atmosphere. Good news for gardeners is that Sunshine® Black Bear® Indoor and Outdoor Potting Mix with biochar is now available. This is an ideal potting mix for containers and hanging baskets with superb water retention abilities. It is also an excellent product to work into the soil when planting.

With April being the month of Earth Day, and the new biochar product from Sunshine®, the third component would easily be planting a pollinator garden or at least some plants that are known for attracting pollinators. Most of us are aware of the plight of the monarch butterfly and how the numbers are drastically decreasing with one of the main reasons being the depletion of their much-needed milkweed plants. The group of plants, Asclepias, commonly called milkweed, is very diverse regarding native habitat, flowers, leaves, and hardiness. The monarch butterfly is very specific and only lays eggs on milkweed plants, which when the eggs hatch are the food source for the larvae.

Asclepias speciosa seed pods

With many patches of native plants on large commercial farming operations being eliminated, milkweed is part of the plant mix that is killed. Here is an opportunity where gardeners can step in and offer plants that are a necessary food source for the life cycle of the monarch. The flowers are good nectar source for many different butterflies. Asclepias are now offered for sale at many garden centers, and they can be garden worthy plants. One of my favorites is Asclepias speciosa, (Showy Milkweed). This is a perennial that grows 3-4 feet tall with large soft gray hairy leaves. The purplish pink flowers appear in mid-summer and are followed by 4–5-inch seed pods that split open and release silk-tailed seeds. The seed pods are often used in dried flower arrangements.

Asclepias speciosa flowers and flower buds

Another Asclepias that while also being a host for monarch butterflies, is probably best known for being a conversation piece in the garden. Asclepias physocarpa, also known as Family Jewels Tree, has flowers that are followed by hairy lime-green seed pods that will last for several months. This is fast growing and can reach 5-6 ft tall in one season. Plant it where it can be readily seen, and you’ll get lots of comments!

Asclepias physocarpa, also known as Family Jewels Tree

As the saying goes, “it takes a village”, and by working and conversing together, we can all make a difference. Initially our steps may be small, but with new knowledge of gardening practices, the steps can become more frequent and slowly become larger. It was not many years ago that I never saw a display at a garden center that highlighted pollinator plants and today it is commonplace.

Starting Tomato Seeds & Tuberous Begonias

Tomato seeds! Where to start? So many to choose from!

Looking over a recent garden catalog arrival, there were over 100 different named cultivars of tomato seed offered for sale. It is hard to think of any other offering that would have such a vast selection. It is no wonder that making a decision can be confusing to the gardener. Here is some basic information and some tips for starting tomatoes from seed.

There are two different types of tomatoes, determinate and indeterminate. A determinate tomato plant is generally compact and bears fruit over a short period of time. They usually only require minimum, or sometimes no staking. An indeterminate tomato is one that keeps growing after flowering and plants can get quite tall, often 5-6 feet or more, and they need to be staked. Indeterminate tomatoes will continue to set fruit until the arrival of cold weather.

When selecting the tomato seeds that you will be planting, give some thought to the kind of tomato that you like to eat. Do you like small, fruited tomatoes or do prefer a large juicy slicing type? There are many choices, just look at a seed rack! For most gardeners, one packet of tomato seeds will produce far more plants than the average gardener will use. This is a good opportunity to get together with other gardening neighbors and each planting a different cultivar and then when plants are ready to go into the garden, trading can begin!

Starting with the right potting mix is crucial and Black Gold Natural & Organic Seedling Mix is an excellent seed starting medium. Cell planting trays are available at most garden centers and are ideal for use when starting seeds. Some gardeners use yogurt containers, which also work for starting seeds, just be sure to punch some holes in the bottom for drainage, Plant 3-4 seeds in each cell-pack, using a heat matt will encourage germination. A good time frame to use is to plant seeds 6-8 weeks before the time plants would be set outside in the garden. Most cell pack trays will have a dome lid which increases humidity and help hold in heat from a heating matt. Remember, tomatoes like warm weather.

Tomatoes are easy to start from seed and doing so is a good project to also get young kids involved. This could be a learning project to learn how a seed grows into a tomato plant!

Changing the subject from tomatoes to begonias can be a stretch, but this is also the time to start begonia tubers indoors. Tuberous begonias can provide some wonderful summer color in a shady or semi-shady location, and they are excellent to use in containers.

Start with a large firm tuber. Avoid tubers that are soft to the touch. Begonias like a rich fast-draining soil and Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix will provide the conditions they need. Place the tuber in a pot and bring the potting mix just up to the top, not covering the tuber. Water after planting and place pot by a window for light. As it grows in the pot, it will probably need to be moved into a larger container. Begonias do not tolerate frost, so wait until all danger of frost is overs before setting them outdoors. They are easy to grow and once flowers appear, they should continue blooming all summer.

Both planting tomato seeds and tuberous begonias is a good early spring project and gets us in the mood that spring is coming. Starting your own plants can give a feeling of accomplishment and we can all use some positive vibes!

Primrose in the Garden

There are many flowers that herald the coming of the spring season and most gardeners have their favorites. Here in the Pacific Northwest, we have a surprisingly large number of shrubs that bloom in January/February. Our own native Mahonia, (Oregon Grape), is a good example with the bright yellow flowers casting some color in what might be a rather drab winter garden. The large shrub/small tree Hamamelis, (Witch Hazel) is a winter bloomer and so are some Viburnums. However, for an early winter flower, it is hard to beat the diversity of colors and flower types as the primrose.

On a recent visit to a garden center, I saw a beautiful display of blooming primrose plants in a wide assortment of colors. The largest display was of the single flower types and to many gardeners this is the traditional primrose. The bonus for me was that not only did I get to visually see the display of blue, purple, yellow, pink, white, and red, but I was also able to get a whiff of their delightful fragrance.

It was not many years ago that most primroses available were the single types. However, today there is more diversity in the flower types and while the single flowering types are the most widely sold, there are many new flower choices available. Double flowering primrose are becoming increasingly popular and available, and their color range is also as diverse as the single types. Actually, their color range may surpass the single types because many double flowers are multi-colored.

Single Flowering Primrose

Double Flowering Primrose

Several years ago, I discovered a new, to me, primrose called ‘Oak Leaf Yellow Picotee’. This was an excellent long-term bloomer, and the plants had flowers long past the usually blooming season. The leaves are as the name suggests, shaped like an oak leaf. A grouping of this primrose was in a pot in our entryway, and it received many positive comments because of the flowers and the leaves. In addition to the long blooming season, it seemed to be more sun tolerant than others.

Oak Leaf Yellow Picotee Primrose

There are other primroses that have clusters of flowers in tiered candelabra-like clusters. Combining these with other woodland and shade loving plants can create a peaceful scene. Once their blooming season is over, they die back to the ground and reappear the next year. Also, leaving the flowers on the stems until they set seed is a guarantee that new plants will also appear in the next spring,

Candelabra Type Primrose Cluster

Plant primrose in a woodland setting where they receive partial sunlight, at least some protection from the summer sun. A dappled shade location would be a good choice. Most would thrive in the same conditions as hostas. Primrose should be planted in a soil that has been enriched with organic matter and the roots mulched to help keep them cool especially in areas with hot summer sun. Black Gold Natural & Organic Raised Bed & Potting Mix would be an ideal potting mix.

Primrose make ideal outdoor potted plants and Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix would give them the organic matter and drainage they need. A container of blooming primrose would certainly provide a bright color spot in a winter garden. They would also be perfect plants for a deck or patio while not much is blooming.

Visit a local garden center and a primrose purchase will be hard to resist!

PS Never being able to visit a garden center and not leave without a plant purchase, I found this gem. It is a primrose called ‘Pollyanna Crystal Fountain’ and as you can see by the picture, it is loaded with buds which indicate many new flowers yet to come!

Pollyanna Crystal Fountain Primrose

Dahlias by Mike Darcy

As of September 22, we have officially moved into the autumn season. I don’t think that plants know it is autumn, nor that they care, but we humans do know and care. Here in the Pacific Northwest, it has been a very unpredictable spring and summer season, and autumn looks to be just as unpredictable. We have experienced some very high temperatures for this time of year and taking a snapshot of many plants in pots on my deck, it resembles a summer scene. Impatiens, coleus, zinnias, salvia, cannas, are just a few that are still providing lots of color.

This photo shows the first flush of blooms on the dahlia Hart’s Bonnie and it’s classified as a B size (medium) ID (informal decorative) Yellow. The unique thing about this variety is the fine line of red found on the margin of the ray florets. This is called picotee and is quite rare.

However, the standout flowers now are the dahlias. The late summer and early fall is their time to shine and they are certainly giving us a grand performance, Dahlias have become a mainstream plant in many gardens and it appears that they are ‘growing’ in popularity. Visiting other gardens and walking in my neighborhood, there is little doubt that dahlias reign at this season. The Pacific Northwest appears to be an ideal climate for them, and I am continually amazed at the diversity of the flower shapes and sizes, and the wide diversity of colors.

Just in time for Halloween is ‘Bloomquist Jean’ a medium size, the form is informal decorative, and, of course, it’s orange.

Dahlias originated from Mexico and Guatemala and in 1651 reports of flowers that were bigger than asters were published in Rome. These reports originated from Spaniards living in Mexico and while the American Dahlia Society was established in 1913, dahlias had been popular in Europe for probably one hundred years earlier.

Ken’s Rarity, a waterlily type dahlia

While dahlias can be grown from seed, most home gardeners start them from tubers that are widely available in garden centers in the spring. Dahlias are a warm, season flower and should not be planted outdoors until all danger of frost is over. Many gardeners will plant tubers indoors about a month before they can be transplanted outdoors, and Black Gold® Natural & Organic Seedling Mix is an ideal medium for starting the tubers. Starting them indoors will give the plants a head start and plants will usually bloom earlier than those tubers planted outdoors later in the season.

Dahlia ‘Star Child’

Dahlias like plenty of organic matter such as Black Gold® Natural & Organic Garden Compost Blend worked into the soil prior to planting. Good drainage is essential and if poor drainage is an issue, the addition of Black Gold® Perlite may be a benefit. Dahlias thrive in a full sun location. The tall growing types have a tendency to be floppy and I like to put in a wooden garden stake next to the tuber at time to planting to use as support during the growing season.

‘Narrow’s Kirsten’, a ball, dark pink

As the autumn season wanes and the leaves begin to turn yellow or there is a frost and the leaves die, cut the stems back to ground level. Dahlia stems are hollow and if water gets in the stems and freezes, the tubers will be damaged and may die. There are a couple of choices here on what to do next. Once plants have been cut to ground level, some gardeners will carefully lift the tubers out of the ground and store them in a container in a frost-free area such as a garage. Black Gold® Perlite is excellent to use around the tuber to protect from cold temperatures.

Another storage method is to leave the tubers in the ground. With this method, the hollow stems should be cut to where they attach to the tuber and is solid, not hollow. Then apply a thick layer of mulch over the tubers. If the winter is severe, this may not offer enough protection and thus the lifting and storing the tuber is a more reliable method.

I have a neighbor that is a big dahlia grower. He has a large bed and did not want to lift all the tubers, and he had no good place to store them. After the first frost, he cut the stems down to the tuber and put a plastic tarp over the entire dahlia bed. On top of the tarp, he added a 4–6-inch layer of leaves and compost. Even though we had some severe winter weather, his dahlias all survived.

This is Maggie C. a medium sized bloom of light blend of yellow and orange.”Lacinate” refers to a characteristic in which the tips of ray florets are split or divided, creating a fringed or feathery appearance

This is the time to take notes on what are some of your favorites and then order tubers for spring delivery. For specific color and color combinations, I have learned that, if possible, actually view the dahlia rather than relying on a photo. This way, you are assured of getting the flower that you want.

Dahlias also make great container plants, especially the small and medium size growing types. They will provide a long season of bloom, usually mid-July until the first frost. They also make excellent cut flowers. If you have not grown them, give them a try in the spring.

Note: All photos and captions are by Portland Dahlia Society lifetime member Gary Murphy.

Big Bold Hostas

Not all hostas are going to be ‘big and bold’ like ‘Empress Wu’, (photo above), but being one of the largest growing hostas, it certainly does make a statement! At the opposite end of the spectrum is a hosta like the miniature ‘Country Mouse’. photo below. It is small growing and perfect for a trough or rock garden Within the hosta ‘world’ there is a huge range to choose from with regard, not only to the size of the plant, but to leaf color, size, texture, variegation, sun tolerance, and flower color.

At one time, hostas were thought of as an old-fashioned plant because they were so often used in gardens in the early 1900’s. They were commonly used in a mixed border garden and most hostas at this time were generally a plant with large green leaves and thus, the common name of Plantain Lily. The plain green leaf hosta has evolved with many new cultivars on the market, and they are much more than just a plain green leaf plant.

Hostas are native to eastern Asia and are now commonly planted throughout the United States. Generally considered shade plants, some hostas will tolerate sun, but I doubt if any would be happy in the intense heat we are getting this summer in the Pacific Northwest! Generally, those with white and/or yellow in the leaves are the least sun tolerant. Since there is such diversity withing this group of plants, check at a local garden center for advice. When visiting a local garden center, if plants are under a shade cloth, this would probably be an indication that they need some protection from the sun.

Hostas like a soil that has been enriched with an organic compost such as Black Gold® Natural & Organic Garden Compost Blend or a mix with coir such as Black Gold® Natural & Organic Cocoblend Potting Mix. Coil has excellent moisture retention qualities. Hostas make excellent container plants on a deck or patio where there is some shade. Their flowers are a summer bonus with spikes of blue, white, or lavender, with some being quite fragrant. All hostas go dormant in the winter and a winter mulch is helpful.

A medium size hosta is ‘Wolverine’ with a mound of long tapered blue green leaves with rippled yellow edges that age to white. Pale lavender flowers in late summer.

One of the most popular of the large growing hostas is ‘Sum and Substance’. With chartreuse, yellow leaves, this hosta has pale lavender flowers in the summer. This is a large grower, up to five feet and is spectacular in a large container.

Earlier this year, I planted several new hostas in my own garden and one is ‘Red Dragon’, pictured above. Not only did I like the shiny green leaves, but the red stems are what drew my eye to this hosta. It is a medium size grower and while in a shady location, it has held up well in the summer heat.

Sometime part of the fun in buying a new plant is the name. ‘Blueberry Muffin’ is a good example. The powdery blue leaves make quite a show and this is another hosta that would make an excellent container plant and would certainly attract attention.

It is not too late to plant hostas and if there is a particular leave pattern or color you are seeking, now would be an ideal time to be certain you are getting what you want. This would also be a good time to let the weather be an indicator as to which plants have survived with little or no heat and sun damage.

Once established in the garden, hostas are very reliable for coming up each spring season. If you have an established plant, they are also very easy to divide during the winter months. They are often overlooked as container plants and can provide some wonderful foliage during the summer months. Give them a soil rich in organic matter, some summer fertilizer, and a shady location, and they should thrive for many years.

All photos are courtesy of Sebright Gardens, a hosta nursery in Salem, Oregon.

About Mike Darcy

Mike lives and gardens in a suburb of Portland, Oregon where he has resided since 1969. He grew in up Tucson, Arizona where he worked at a small retail nursery during his high school and college years. He received his formal education at the University of Arizona where he was awarded a Bachelor of Science Degree in Horticulture, and though he values his formal education, he values his field-experience more. It is hard to beat the ‘hands on’ experience of actually gardening, visiting gardens, and sharing information with other gardeners. Mike has been involved with gardening communications throughout his adult life. In addition to garden writing, he has done television gardening shows in Portland, and for over 30 years he hosted a Saturday radio talk show in Portland. Now he writes, speaks, gardens and continues to share his love of gardening. To be connected to the gardening industry is a bonus in life for Mike. He has found gardeners to be among the friendliest and most caring, generous people. Consequently, many of his friends he has met through gardening.

Favorite Summer Garden Herbs

The flowers of English lavender and sage complement each other in the early summer garden.

Parsley, Sage, Rosemary, and Thyme is one of the most popular songs by Simon and Garfunkel, and both the herbs and song are favorites. But, what about basil? Shouldn’t basil be a part of the song lyrics? Truly, the addition of basil would create a wordier line in the song, but the addition of the herb would complete my list of top herbs to grow in summer. (We will leave parsley out because most gardeners start the plant as a spring herb.)

Basil

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is one of the most important culinary summer herbs, and the plant is steeped in history and folklore. It is probably the most well-known and widely grown of all the summer herbs. Although ubiquitous to southern European cuisine, basil is a native of Africa, Asia, and parts of the Middle East. The word itself, basil, is believed to be derived from the Greek Basilikon phuton which means “kingly herb.”

In my summer garden, I would never be without a container or two of basil. There are many different cultivars–too many to list. Basil flavors range from sweet basil, such as ‘Genova’ or ‘Lettuce Leaf’, to the anise-scented leaves of Thai basil (Ocimum basilicum var. thyrsiflora, ‘Siam Queen‘ is a beautiful flowering form), or the lemony leaves of ‘Mrs. Burns’ ‘Lemon basil (Ocimum basilicum var. citriodora ‘Mrs. Burns). There are also colorful purple and red basils, such as ‘Dark Purple Opal‘ or the maroon ‘Osmin‘, etc.

While I always try a new variety each year. Last summer, I grew ‘Emerald Towers’ for the first time. It grew, as the name implies, in more of a pyramid shape, and, as advertised, the plant produced no flowers. The leaves had the same flavor as sweet basil. It was so effortless, I plan to grow one in a pot near the kitchen door for summer!

Basil plants will bloom with spikes of white or lavender flowers, but I recommend gardeners pinch the flowers off, so the plant will continue to produce new leaves rather than seeds. Sometimes, in the fall I leave a few flower spikes when plants are tired because they seem to be a magnet for honeybees.

Sage

Sage (Salvia officinalis) is another easy-to-grow summer herb originating from the Mediterranean. In our Pacific Northwest climate, the shrubby, evergreen will overwinter as a perennial (USDA Hardiness Zones 5-11). The attractive plants look good either in ornamental gardens or herb gardens.

There are quite a few garden-worthy culinary sage varieties with variations in leaf color from standard green to purple to variegated forms, which usually have leaves with purple tones and white margins. The large-leaved ‘Berggarten‘ sage has big, rounded, felty-green leaves, and the purple, ivory, and green-leaved ‘Tricolor‘ sage is both good-looking and savory. In the spring or early summer, the sage plants produce spikes of lavender-blue flowers visited by bees.

Any sage can be grown as an attractive potted plant, if given full sun a large pot filled with quality, well-drained soil and regular water.

Rosemary

Another shrubby perennial herb is rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis, USDA Hardiness Zones 7-11). While many plants did not survive our January ice storm last winter, rosemary plants usually live through our winters. Fortunately, some cultivated varieties are hardier than others. ‘Arp‘ is a selection that tends to be more winter-hardy than others and can survive winters up to Zone 6.

Rosemary grows to be a large, attractive plant in the garden. Specimens can reach 3-feet or more. In fact, they are often grown as shrubs in the Mediterranean. For their best chance of survival, choose a full-sun location with sharply-drained soil. The roots will not tolerate wet feet in the winter.

Small spikes of flowers appear along the stems in various shades of lavender-blue, sometimes white, in the late spring or early summer. There are trailing forms that are ideal for planting along a retaining wall or in a large container. ‘Prostratus‘ (Zones 8-11), which can reach a foot or so and spread to 3 feet or more, is the most common creeping form available.

Lavender

Few herbs are as strongly identified with fragrance and color as lavender (Lavandula spp.). There are many beautiful species and varieties to try, including the classic, compact ‘Munstead’ English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia ‘Munstead’), and lovely ‘Lady’ lavender (Lavandula ‘Lady’), which blooms in the first year from seed. ‘Vera‘ (Lavandula angustifolia ‘Vera’) is another compact form known for its strong, aromatic fragrance and dense wands of lavender-blue flowers.

Lavender is a short-lived shrubby perennial, which varies in hardiness depending on the species. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), the hardiest form, will survive in Zone 5 or 6. All grow best when given full sun and soil with good drainage. Like rosemary, they do not appreciate wet feet in the winter. With good care, plants will survive for four to five years before they begin to decline and require replacement.

Growing Summer Herbs

Potted basil is useful to have near or in the kitchen.

All of the herbs listed need warm temperatures, and a rule of thumb should planted outdoors after the threat of frost has passed. A full-sun location is required. For plants in containers, all will thrive in Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix. The addition of perlite and pumice to increase drainage is recommended. Add three parts mix to one part pumice/Black Gold Perlite, and make sure the container is large and has drainage holes at the base.

There are so many different herbs that are readily available to the home gardener. If you have a favorite, check out the herb section at your local garden center for the best plants in your area. While many may not be winter hardy, they can provide great satisfaction during the summer months.

Glorious Hydrangeas for the Summer Garden

Blue lacecap hydrangeas are garden favorites, especially ‘Nachtigall’ (singer of the night). (Image by Mike Darcy)

The name Hydrangea denotes water and comes from the Greek words, hydor (water) and aggos (a jar). Together the words mean ‘water vessel’ because of the cup-like form Hydrangea seed capsules. I have looked at the seed capsule, and perhaps my imagination is not quite enough to describe them as water vessels, but hydrangeas do require regular soil moisture to look their best. Give them basic care, and they are some of the easiest summer-flowering shrubs you can grow.

As with many groups of plants, Hydrangeas are very diverse in flower color, leaf color texture, and growth habit. Their flowers can be different shapes and colors will vary from solid colors of white, pink, blue, purple, and cream to some that are bicolor in shades of pink and white. Leaf color is also variable and while most are solid green, some are variegated and some have burgundy foliage. They thrive throughout much of the Pacific Northwest and in many other parts of the country, except for areas with extreme summer heat or winter cold, and some species are not adapted to the deep South.

Hydrangea Selection

Tuff Stuff^™ is a compact lacecap known to prosper in more difficult growing areas. (Image by Jessie Keith)

Selecting a hydrangea for the garden can be difficult because there are so many choices. It is difficult to only select one! Space is limited, and I cannot name all of my other favorites, but here is a selection of favorites from my garden.

Oakleaf Hydrangea

If I had to pick just one hydrangea to grow, my choice would be Snow Queen oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Snow Queen’). It is named because of the oak-like shape of the leaves and snowy summer flower clusters. This hydrangea is a sturdy grower with white upright panicles of single blooms that cover the plant in early to midsummer. It has deep green leaves all summer and in the fall, they turn a superb shade of red. Another plus is that oakleaf hydrangeas tend to take more sun than many other species.

Lacecap and Mophead Hydrangeas

‘Nachtigall’ has some of the best blue lacecaps. (Image by Mike Darcy)

Common bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla, USDA Hardiness Zones 6-11 (a few cultivars are bred to survive to Zone 5)) and mountain hydrangeas (Hydrangea serrata, Zones 5-9) have either mophead (with a puffy head of showy flowers) or lacecap (with a head showy flowers along the margins) blooms. Mopheads are more common, but I prefer lacecaps for their stately appearance. Their flowers are in shades of blue, pink, white, red, or purple. The blue/purple or pink/red types have flower colors that can change depending on the pH of the soil. Pinkish/reddish colors denote more alkaline soil, and purplish/blueish colors indicate more acidic soil.

One of the deepest blues of the lacecap types, and a spectacular specimen in my garden, is Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Nachtigall’ (5 feet x 5 feet). I first saw one in a garden last summer, and I kept walking back to it because it was such an impressive large shrub in full bloom. Some of the flowers looked as though they were almost double. Another I have had my eye on is a compact, pink-flowered lacecap called Tuff Stuff^™ (3 feet x 3 feet) from Proven Winners. It is supposed to be exemplary and has a neat, rounded habit.

Three more favorite hydrangeas are known for both their foliage and flowers. They are the lacecap ‘Lemon Wave’, which has leaves with patches of white and yellow, the bigleaf lacecap called ‘Purple Leaf Form’, with its truly burgundy foliage, and a dark-purple-leaved mophead called Eclipse^® with showy red and white flowers. All are striking in the garden and cause my visitors to comment.

Smooth Hydrangea

For large blooms, the native Annabelle smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’, 3-8) is hard to beat. It is sometimes referred to as an old-fashioned snowball plant. The buds begin as pale white or light green and open to white. The blooms are very large, and the plant has a long blooming period in the summer.

Climbing Hydrangea

*Schizophragma hydrangeoides* ‘Moonlight’ is a lovely woody vine for shade. (Image by Mike Darcy)

While technically not a Hydrangea, climbing hydrangea (Schizophragma hydrangeoides ‘Moonlight’, Zones 5-8) is a close relative. The climbing lianna tolerates shade. In my garden, it only receives about an hour of morning sun and looks beautiful. Its heart-shaped leaves are almost silver and the lacy summer flowers are ivory. Climbing hydrangea stems are stout and develop rootlets that attach to buildings, walls, or pergolas, so plant yours on a structure with strength and permanence.

Hydrangea Care

Hydrangeas like moist, not soggy, soil. Select a site that is protected from the hot afternoon sun. Morning sun or filtered sunlight is ideal. Water thoroughly, especially during the first year, and don’t let the soil become dry. At planting time, add a liberal amount of Black Gold^® Natural & Organic Garden Compost Blend to the soil beforehand to increase organic matter. When planting hydrangeas in large pots, use Black Gold^® All Purpose Potting Mix. Then add Black Gold^® Perlite for increased drainage and aeration.

Eclipse^® has both showy leaves and flowers. (Photography by Tracy Walsh, care of First Editions® Shrubs & Trees)

Hydrangeas species and varieties have different pruning needs. Some of the older cultivars bloom on second-year growth, and if heavily pruned in the fall, the plants will skip a year of bloom. Some bloom on new growth, so the time of pruning is not so critical. Those that bloom on new growth include the panicle hydrangea, which is not mentioned above (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ is a good variety to try), and smooth hydrangea. Check the plant tag for pruning requirements. (Click here for more pruning guidelines from Proven Winners^®.)

There are so many hydrangeas to choose from, and given the right planting conditions they can provide beauty in the garden for many years. A good rule of thumb as to how particular plants will perform in your garden is to talk with friends or neighbors who have them. If their plants are thriving, yours should, too. The month of May is an excellent time to plant. For more Hydrangea information, contact the American Hydrangea Society.

The Best Reblooming Clematis

Clematis *alpina* ‘Pamela Jackman’ first blooms in April and again later in the season.

When visiting older established gardens, if there is a border garden, it will probably contain at least one of these three plants: peony, bearded iris, and clematis. These are often considered old-fashioned plants because they have been regularly planted in gardens for so many years. All three of these plants are generally considered reliable spring bloomers and once blooming. The bloom period can be over several weeks, and there are usually early and late-season varieties, but their flowering time is usually spring and early summer with additional flowers not expected until the next spring. There are, however, exceptions.

Over the past several years, there has been a resurgence of interest to select those that will rebloom. This is especially true with clematis, and with a little effort, a gardener can have plants that will rebloom once and sometimes even twice. I recently discussed reblooming clematis with Linda Beutler, curator of the Rogerson Clematis Collection in Lake Oswego, Oregon, and here are some of her thoughts.

The fully double ‘Duchess of Edinburgh’ blooms as many as three times in a season. (Image from the Friends of Rogerson Clematis Collection archive)

Reblooming Clematis Care

Most clematis grow best in the full to partial sun and like to have their roots shaded and their tops in the sun. After a clematis has flowered, deadhead it, (remove old flowers) and do some light pruning if necessary. Deadheading prevents the plant from setting seed and light pruning removes any dead stems and opens the plant up to more sunlight. Fertilize the plant at this time. Linda said a rose & flower fertilizer is generally good. At the Rogerson Clematis Collection, they use a fertilizer with an NPK, (Nitrogen- Phosphorus-Potassium nutrient numbers on the bag or box) ratio with numbers under 10. Currently, they use a 5-7-2. Often, 30-45 days after fertilization, the plant will re-bloom. For a full list of care tips, visit the Rogerson Clematis Collection page on clematis care (click here).

Five Recommended Reblooming Clematis

‘Blue Ravine’ is a large-flowered rebloomer. (Image from the Friends of Rogerson Clematis Collection archive)

Naturally, some plants will consistently rebloom easier, and for that consistent rebloom the following are five clematis varieties that Linda recommends.

Clematis alpina ‘Pamela Jackman’ (Zones 3-9) flowers first in April and reblooms well, often in late summer. It requires trellising and can also be grown well in a container. With this clematis, you can have April in August.
Clematis ‘Elegant Rhythm’ (Zones 5-9) is a handsome herbaceous perennial clematis named and introduced by Joy Creek Nursery. If you do not allow it to set seed, it will rebloom through late spring and summer, just like annual Scabiosa or perennial Astrantia.
Clematis ‘Duchess of Edinburgh’ (Zones 4-9) is a double that can bloom as many as three times in a long growing season. Deadhead the spent blooms and fertilize with most any fertilizer for roses. The fully-double flowering clematis will often produce flowers that are less doubled when they rebloom.
Clematis ‘Blue Ravine’ (Zones 4-9) is an excellent large-flowered variety and has the added advantage of flowering well—if paler—in partial shade. The photo above was taken in September 2020 and looks as though it were in spring.
Clematis ‘Niobe’ (Zones 4-9) is a deep-red variety (pictured below reblooming in the autumn). Look closely at the image and you can see this clematis is growing through and is supported by another plant. This particular support plant is Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’.

The deepest-red-flowered ‘Niobe’ is growing up an Osmanthus shrub. (Image from the Friends of Rogerson Clematis Collection archive)

Clematis are often grown in this way using another plant for support. Often some of the old garden roses are used because they not only offer a good support system, but the clematis will flower again when the once-blooming roses are finished.

If you are visiting the Pacific Northwest, and have any interest in clematis, be sure to visit the Rogerson Clematis Garden, which is part of the Lake Oswego, Oregon, Parks & Recreation system. With over 900 taxa represented, it is the most comprehensive collection of clematis within a public garden in North America. Admission is free.

The handsome clematis ‘Elegant Rhythm’ has pendulous flowers. (Image from the Friends of Rogerson Clematis Collection archive)

Celebrating Colorful Coleus

Coleus ‘Henna’ is a real color-filled beauty with shades of green, orange, and purple.

Long ago, Coleus had been considered a house plant. I can remember, my grandmother always had coleus growing in her house. It was a popular winter houseplant because the colorful leaves provided bright spots of color during the long Midwest winter months. Only occasionally were plants planted outdoors during the summer. My, how the times have changed!

Today, coleus varieties have been developed to be sun tolerant and the leaf colors, shapes, and plant habits are widely diverse. While coleus is technically a tender perennial down south, for most of us they are grown as summer annuals and provide wonderful leaf color throughout the season. The plants need warm weather to thrive and cannot withstand frost, but from late spring until the first frost of fall, they look lovely.

Selecting Coleus

The Proven Winner’s Coleus El Brighto glows in a porch garden filled with cannas, sunflowers, colocasias, and lantanas. The coleus flowers were pinched off after the photo was taken! (Image thanks to Mike Darcy)

When selecting garden coleus, a good rule is to set them out at the same time tomatoes are planted. Both coleus and tomatoes need warm weather, and cold weather can stunt or kill plants if set out too early. Even though some new coleus selections have been developed as sun-loving coleus, I have found most perform better in my garden with some afternoon shade.

Coleus are ideal in both the garden and containers. More compact varieties make superb container plants with their colorful foliage throughout the summer season, such as the new compact, red, purple, and green Coleus ‘Spitfire’. Another I have grown both in a container and the garden is Proven Winner’s showy, ColorBlaze® El Brighto, with its brilliant fringed leaves of red, purple, and gold. (Click here to admire more of Proven Winner’s Colorblaze Coleus.)

Whatever coleus I choose, my potting mix of choice is Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix. It holds moisture well and also provides for good drainage. I add an organic fertilizer at the time of planting and mix it well into the potting mix.

Planting Coleus

Coleus ‘Spitefire’ has a unique layering growth habit suited to containers and hanging baskets. (Image thanks to Mike Darcy)

When setting out and growing coleus plants, it is a good idea to pinch the tips of the stems often to encourage a compact growth habit and encourage branching. Sometimes plants will send up spikes of white or lavender flowers. Even though bees like them, coleus foliage looks best if you pinch off the buds before they bloom. Pinching will stop flowering and encourage the plant to produce new colorful growth rather than flowers and seeds.

Sometimes one color plant can create a nice ‘pop’ of color. Last year I planted Coleus ‘Campfire’ with its amber-orange foliage, and it stood out nicely against a background of green (image below). Another bold coleus with only one color is Proven Winner’s Lime Time, which provides a beautiful display of chartreuse leaf color and is especially nice in a shady area. It mixes well with ferns in a woodland setting,

El Brighto is equally suited to container plantings. The container shown has three plants planted in early June and the photo was taken in mid-August. One plant would have been enough. (Image thanks to Mike Darcy)

Last summer, I saw a pot of Coleus Spitfire in a garden and was impressed. The variety has a unique layering growth habit as well as brightly colored leaves. It looked beautiful in the container and would work equally well in a hanging basket or a garden edge.

Caring For Coleus at Season’s End

The warm, glowing leaves of ‘Campfire’ look attractive against bright greens and golds. (Image thanks to Mike Darcy)

As the summer season ends consider overwintering a coleus. You can either take a cutting to pot up or transplant the larger specimen. They root easily in water and once rooted, can be planted in a small pot and kept by a window for necessary light. (Click here for video details on how to take cuttings.) The plants will probably have to be pinched often as they reach for light, but they are easy to keep over and then planted outside in the spring.

The selection of color combinations is vast and every year there are new forms on the market. Some dwarf types have small leaves and only grow up to about 12 inches. Then there is the Kong series with leaves reaching up to 8 inches in length! If you have not checked out the coleus section at your local garden center, you will be surprised at the diversity of leaf colors and shapes that are available.

Lime Time will brighten up any bed or potted planting. (Image thanks to Mike Darcy)

Spring Garden Tasks for a Happy Garden

Spring is here! Officially it was March 20th, but I knew it was spring as soon as I saw the daffodils emerge. The hellebores have been glorious this year, but as their late-winter flowers slowly fade, new colors appear in the garden. The red stems of the peonies have started to peek out after being dormant all winter, the early magnolias are blooming, and the sweet fragrance of daphne lets my family know that spring has begun.

This is a wonderful time of year in the garden, with lots to do but so much to be thankful for. Yes, there are many tasks required, but most of those tasks are not burdensome. Instead, they are rather enjoyable because as gardeners, we are getting ready for a new growing season with lots of promises in store.

Refreshing Garden Containers

By refreshing the potting soil in your spring and summer containers, you will find that they perform much better!

One of my early tasks is to freshen up my many containers, of which I have 100+ scattered throughout the garden. It is a chore, no question about that, but I always like to add new potting mix to containers as needed. In some of the large pots, instead of removing all of the older potting mix, I take out about half and add new and mix the two together. In most of the smaller pots, if the mix has not been changed for a couple of years, I empty the old and add new. With the old mix, I use it around established trees and shrubs in the garden as a mulch.

My planting mix of choice is Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix. Last year, we had some extremely hot days, and it was difficult to keep pots adequately watered. This year, I am going to add some Black Gold Just Coir to the mix because it should help with moisture retention when temperatures are high.

Click here for more spring-container reading:

Prune Early Spring-Blooming Shrubs

Prune spring-flowering shrubs, like this Viburnum, just after they flower to keep from removing next year’s flower buds.

As some of the early-blooming flowering shrubs, such as Forsythia, finish their blooming period, it is a good time to do some pruning if necessary. Remove any branches that tend to be older and weaker because this pruning will encourage new growth that will then bloom next year.

This has been a superb spring for Camellias, and I cannot remember a time when I have seen so many plants with so many flowers. As the flowers fade, they should be removed. Often plants grow much larger than we had intended when they were planted, and I think Camellias are a good example. After they bloom, it is an excellent time to do any necessary pruning.

Click here for more information about spring-bloomers:

Get Spring and Summer Vegetables Started

Now’s the time to plant spring herbs and vegetables, such as this dill, lettuce, and cilantro.

While it is too early to set out tomato plants and other summer vegetables, there are many cool-season vegetables that can be planted now. Vegetables, like lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower can be planted now, and garden centers should have a good selection available. Tomato seeds can be started indoors, and the plants will then be ready to set outside in late May or early June. Peas can be sown outdoors, both edible peas and flowering sweet peas. Sweet pea seeds have a very hard coating, and I have found that soaking the seeds overnight in a bowl of water prior to planting, will speed up germination. (Click here to discover more seeds that appreciate soaking.)

Here are some more resources about planting vegetables in the spring:

Prune Roses

If you failed to prune your roses earlier in the season, there is still time.

Roses should have been pruned in late winter or earliest spring, but if not, it is better to do it now rather than not at all. Your flowers will probably appear later, but the bushes will be more compact, and the flowers will be within reach.

Click here for more rose pruning and selecting resources:

Don’t let the many tasks of the spring garden overwhelm you. A garden is meant to be enjoyed and to be a place of peace and tranquility. Take the time to enjoy it, most plants are resilient and can stand some neglect. The garden never has to be perfect. It is a growing entity that is constantly changing. Enjoy the changes with it.

Click here to see my Spring Garden Tasks for a Happy Garden from previous years. Happy spring!!!

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