Food-Gardening Lessons From A Wartime Victory Garden

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Author: JESSIE KEITH

Plants are the lens Jessie views the world through because they’re all-sustaining. (“They feed, clothe, house and heal us. They produce the air we breathe and even make us smell pretty.”) She’s a garden writer and photographer with degrees in both horticulture and plant biology from Purdue and Michigan State Universities. Her degrees were bolstered by internships at Longwood Gardens and the American Horticultural Society. She has since worked for many horticultural institutions and companies and now manages communications for Sun Gro Horticulture, the parent company of Black Gold. Her joy is sharing all things green and lovely with her two daughters.

I Have the Ugliest Caterpillars on My Orange Trees!

The giant swallowtail butterfly (Heraclides cresphontes)

“I have the ugliest caterpillar living on my orange trees, eating the leaves. There are more than one. They are dark in color, with different markings. These are just smaller than your little finger, with the top or face part ????, bigger than the tail. What are these, and should I get them off my Orange Trees. Tree’s are only about five years old, so they are small in size. Question from Colleen of Englewood, Florida

Answer: There are several caterpillars that could be eating your oranges, but the ugliest is that of the giant swallowtail butterfly (Heraclides cresphontes), which is common in your state. It is also called the orange dog caterpillar. The caterpillars are large (up to 4 inches), with a large head of dark brown and ivory or yellowish markings (particularly at the tail).  The butterflies then turn into fantastically beautiful and important pollinators. They are the largest swallowtails in North America, but boy are their young unsightly. Thankfully, they are never in numbers to do real damage to orange trees unless the trees are tiny, so I would leave them alone if you can. The beauty and value of these butterflies outweighs the loss of a few leaves.

There are a few other orange-tree-eating caterpillar possibilities, which are not as ugly, and don’t fit your description. The oleander caterpillar is one. It appears in larger numbers and is orange with conspicuous long, black tufts of hair from head to tail, but I am almost positive that you have giant swallowtail caterpillars.

If so, you may want to watch them until they form chrysalises and burst forth into the huge butterflies they become. I hope that this information helps!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

The giant swallowtail

Why Doesn’t Weed and Feed Kill All of My Broadleaf Weeds?

“I put weed and feed (broadleaf weed killer) down, but the plantago weed is still there. Why?” Question from Sandra of Cottage Grove, Minnesota

Answer: There could be several possible reasons. Before covering them, let me give an overview of how most weed and feed lawn herbicides work. Broadleaf weed killers that also feed grasses only kill broadleaf weeds, like dandelions, plantago, and clover, not grasses. Non-organic weed and feed products typically contain the chemicals (2,4-D) and mecoprop-p, for weed control.  2,4-D and mecoprop-p are most active at killing weeds after they have sprouted (annual weeds are easier to destroy). Here are several reasons why your perennial plantago may still be surviving.

1. You did not apply at the right time. Broadleaf weed killers must be used when plants have sprouted and are actively growing. If applied too early in the spring, they are not as effective.

2. Weeds seeds are a problem. These chemicals are not as impactful on weed seeds, so it is important to apply them after weed seeds have sprouted. (Very early in the season, try using corn gluten, an all-natural pre-emergent that stops weed seeds from germinating.)

3. Encourage thick grass and thatch. Thick grass discourages weed seeds from sprouting. Mow grass higher to encourage a lush lawn, and don’t rake away the thick layer of thatch (the carpet of dead grass below the living grass) because this also keeps weed seeds at bay. There are always loads of seeds below the thatch just waiting to sprout.

4. Perennial weeds are tougher. Plantago is a perennial weed, and these are a lot tougher for herbicides to kill. Be sure to follow application guidelines and warnings for full effect. Most guidelines suggest the product be applied again in the fall.

Chemicals in traditional weed and feed products are pretty harsh. If you are interested in a comparable organic option, there are several all-natural broadleaf weedkillers on the market.

In the meantime, pulling up really large, annoying plantagos is an option. Getting the worst specimens out of the way will likely make you feel better until the next application.

I hope that this information helps!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Why Won’t My Crepe Myrtles Bloom?

“My crepe myrtles don’t bloom. I’ve added “blossom booster,” but still no blooms. Any suggestions?” Question from Carol of Douglasville, Georgia

Answer: How frustrating! You plant one of these glorious flowering shrubs/trees and…no flowers. There are a few possible reasons why yours won’t bloom for you.

  1. Light – One of the most common reasons is too little light. Crepe myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica) are sun lovers that need high light to bloom well. If yours gets a good bit of shade, little to no blooming can result.
  2. Food and Soil – Well-drained soil enriched with organic matter (peat moss or compost) will also encourage good growth and blooming. Fertilizer is also important. I would choose a slow-release fertilizer formulated for flowering. Work it in around the root zone at the beginning of each season.
  3. Heat and Water – Parched summers that are extra hot can put a strain on these plants and reduce flowering. Does yours look otherwise healthy? If not, I would provide it with additional water when the summer weather is at its worst. Likewise, prolonged excess moisture can cause poor growth and root rot.
  4. Disease – Several crepe myrtle diseases can put a damper on health and flowering. Powdery mildew, which appears like a whitish powdery dust on leaf surfaces, stresses plants and negatively impacts flowering. Likewise, Cercospora leaf spot, which results in spotty leaves that fall prematurely, can reduce flowering. If you suspect mildew, look into the effective fungicide, GreenCure. For leaf spot, try a copper-based fungicide spray. To reduce the impact of both diseases, prune out dense, internal branches to encourage airflow, and be sure to clean up fallen leaves in autumn.
  5. Variety – Consider the variety. Some are more reliable than others. If yours just won’t flower well, then choose a tough, reliable variety with excellent flowering performance. I recommend three vigorous, disease-resistant varieties: the deep-red flowered Dynamite®, brilliant pink ‘Hopi’ and lavender-violet ‘Zuni’.

 

I also recommend that you contact your local UGA Extension Agent to get more tips for your growing area.

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

What Bulbs Can I Force in a Vase?

“Other than hyacinths, which bulbs can I force in a hyacinth vase?” Question from Robin of Warner, New Hampshire

Answer: There are several factors to take into consideration when choosing bulbs to force in hyacinth vases. Only certain bulbs can be easily forced, in water, gravel, or soil, during the winter months. And, most require a chilling period before they are forced or sold for forcing–the paperwhite ‘Ziva’ is an exception. The easiest and most common bulbs for winter forcing, aside from hyacinths, include amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp., see video below), paperwhites and some daffodils (Narcissus spp.), crocus (Crocus spp.), grape hyacinths (Muscari spp.), netted irises (Iris reticulata) and some early tulips. But, not all are well-suited for vase forcing.

Bulbs must be of a certain size to be supported by a water-filled hyacinth vase.  Hyacinth bulbs are large, and the plants don’t become too leggy if grown in direct or bright, filtered sunlight. So they are well-supported by the water-filled vases. Large crocus bulbs/corms can also be grown in hyacinth vases. There are also long-necked bulb vases that can accommodate taller bulbs, like amaryllis. Most other bulbs I would grow in vases with gravel at the base or in pots filled with growing medium, such as Black Gold All-Purpose Potting Mix, and topped with decorative sphagnum peat moss.

I hope that this information helps!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

I Am Looking for a Source for Boughton Dome Hebe?

“I am looking for bright dome hebe… can’t find it anywhere. Can you help?” Question from Kate of Brookings, Oregon

Ask a Garden Expert Answer: There are several Dome hebe. This includes ‘Boughton Dome’, ‘Emerald Dome’, ‘Golden Dome, and ‘Pewter Dome’. There is no ‘Bright Dome’ that I know of or
can find. Can you tell me the flower color and appearance of the hebe you seek?

Kate’s Response: Thanks so much for getting back in touch with me.  I meant to say I am looking for ‘Boughton Dome’ Hebe. Can you help me with that?

Ask a Garden Expert Answer: Sure! Joy Creek Nursery has an online catalog and is offering ‘Boughten Dome’ for sale. Click here to view. Before buying from an online nursery, I always check the Garden Watchdog of Dave’s Garden. You can type in any nursery, and they have reliable reviews. Joy Creek has overwhelmingly positive reviews.

I hope that this helps!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

How Do I Care For My Butterfly Bush in Fall?

“What’s the best way to care for my butterfly bush, now that all the flowers are gone?  I usually cut it all the way back in the spring, which usually makes for a beautiful bush throughout the summer.  This year, not so much.  It was not very full, although it did grow quite tall.  Should I be doing something to it in the fall?”  Question from Diane of Newark, Ohio

Answer: If you trim the seed heads off of your butterfly bush (Buddleia hybrid) now, you may get a new flush of flowers before season’s end, if the weather stays moderately warm. So, don’t give up on your shrub so early. There are lots of migrating monarchs that still need food for their travels.

Butterfly Bush Pruning Time

There are different fields of thought regarding buddleia pruning time. Some say late spring; others say it does not matter. In my experience, when you hard-prune it back (I generally prune mine back to 1 foot) depends on your hardiness zone. I have pruned mine back in both spring and fall with no difference in summer performance, but my USDA Hardiness Zone 7 garden is milder than yours. So, for your Zone 6 garden, I recommend that you wait until after the last frost of spring to prune buddleia back.

Butterfly Bush Fertilization

For top flowering performance, I recommend that you feed your shrub with bloom-boosting plant food. It should also get full sun for most of the day. Butterfly bushes often don’t live past 20 years, and some of the newer varieties can be shorter-lived. This must also be taken into consideration.

Happy buddleia growing!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

How Do I Get Rid of a Groundhog?

“What is the best way to get rid of a groundhog?” Question from Glenn of Parsippany, New Jersey

Answer: Groundhogs can be very destructive creatures as well as smart and evasive. I have dealt with a few around my vegetable garden, and they are real pests! Here are several removal methods that I recommend.

1. Remove cover. Groundhogs dig dens where there is ample green cover. If you can find the den entryways, cut back any cover you can. It will encourage your groundhog to move on. (Some will tell you to pour things down a groundhog’s den hole or smoke them out, but these methods are rarely, if ever, effective. Groundhogs can have as many as 4 to 5 escape exits and can always create a new den.)

2. Live trap: Live trapping them is an iffy venture but worth a try. Offering desirable food within the trap your best bet. Groundhogs are most attracted to tasty, aromatic fruits and vegetables. Contact your local Department of Natural Resources to find out where you can drop off a captured groundhog. (Be sure to wear thick gloves to protect your hands while moving a live-trap cage.)

3. Use motion-activated deterrents: There are motion-activated repelling devices that will scare groundhogs away from your yard or garden when you are not there. These can be quite effective.

4. Get a dog or cat: A dog will do more to scare away a groundhog, but cats can also be helpful, especially large male cats. Groundhogs will clear out if threatened or frightened by a pet.

5. Use copious repellents: If you use some of the methods above in combination with bad-smelling granular or liquid repellents around your yard or garden, you will create a truly undesirable place for groundhogs to reside.

I would also recommend fencing (at least 5-feet high and sunk at least 1-foot below ground), but this can be very expensive. One thing that I do not recommend is the use of poison, which can harm pets, wildlife, and children. Poisons are a real liability and danger.

To get more good ideas, I recommend that you read the article below.

I hope that these tips help!

Happy gardening,

Jessie Keith, Black Gold Horticulturist

Managing the Six Worst Garden Animal Pests

September: Ace Fall Convention 2019

Black Gold Will Be at Booth 4136

The Ace Fall Convention 2019 runs from September 5th to the 8th and will be held in Atlanta, Georgia at the Georgia World Congress Center. Come out and see all of the new products and services Black Gold and Sun Gro Horticulture have to offer.

Our soilless growing mixes and amendments are the best on the market, and we offer the best service to our retail customers and gardeners. The Black Gold website is geared towards customer education with expert-driven garden blogs, videos, and personalized gardening information through our free Ask a Garden Expert support service.

Arett Open House 2019

We will be at Booths 124 and 125.

Black Gold and Sun Gro Horticulture have lots of new retail products to show off at the Arett Open House 2019! It will be held from September 8-10, 2019 at the Atlantic City Convention Center in Atlantic City, New Jersey.

Sun Gro will be on the trade show floor with hundreds of other green-industry companies. Check out our new products for 2020, discounts, and shipping options. We hope to see you there!

The Landscape Show 2019

We will be at Booth 903.

Produced by the Florida Nursery, Growers & Landscape Association (FNGLA), The Landscape Show will be held from September 19 – 21, 2019 in the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, Florida. And, Black Gold and Sun Gro Horticulture will be there!

The Landscape Show is one of the biggest nursery and landscape industry shows in the South. The trade show has over 800 booths with green-industry professionals showing the best that they have to offer for 2020.