Plants are the lens Jessie views the world through because they’re all-sustaining. (“They feed, clothe, house and heal us. They produce the air we breathe and even make us smell pretty.”) She’s a garden writer and photographer with degrees in both horticulture and plant biology from Purdue and Michigan State Universities. Her degrees were bolstered by internships at Longwood Gardens and the American Horticultural Society. She has since worked for many horticultural institutions and companies and now manages communications for Sun Gro Horticulture, the parent company of Black Gold. Her joy is sharing all things green and lovely with her two daughters.
“Will the mold from decomposing leaves and wood chip piles harm your soil?” Question from Sylvia of Belle Plaine, Minnesota
Answer: The molds involved in the decomposition of dead plant material are generally not disease causing to live plants, so they should not harm your garden plants. They are distinct from disease-causing fungi.
The soil is filled with fungi of all kinds at all times, some can cause plant disease and others do not. Those fungi that are disease-causing and remain in the soil are brought on by live plants that have contracted fungal diseases and passed them into the soil. These fungal diseases are generally crop specific. Crop rotation on a three-year cycle is the best way to ensure that your different crops are protected from soil-borne fungal diseases. For example, if your tomatoes get fungal late blight, plant beans where your tomatoes grew the previous year followed by squash the next year. By the third year, the late blight should no longer be a problem where you originally planted your tomatoes, and you can plant them in that spot again.
With that said, excess mold spores in the air are not good for human health. Excess moisture encourages mold growth, so to reduce mold in your leaf and wood chip piles, keep them turned regularly to increase air flow. If you plan to use them as garden covers, the mold will dry out once the leaf mulch and wood chips are spread out. Then they won’t be a problem.
“I have a Barbados cherry tree that I just bought from a fast-growing tree nursery, and it’s small and dying. When I got the plant, all the leaves were gone, and it’s just not growing. I added seaweed and some fish emulsion, but it just won’t grow. There is green when I scratch the stem. What canI do to bring it back?” Question from Carol of Joaquin, Texas
Answer: This a concern because the leaves of Barbados cherry (Malpighia glabra) are evergreen, so it should have had leaves when it arrived from the nursery. But, it’s a good sign that you see green when you scratch the stem. It may still have enough life left in it to survive.
Because this subtropical shrub/tree is not reliably hardy where you live (USDA Hardiness Zone 8), I would plant it in a pot with very well-drained potting soil and keep the soil just moist. In the wild, it grows in very dry soils, so too much water will kill it. I suggest Black Gold Cactus Mix with a little added peat moss.
If your tree has enough life in it, the little guy should start putting out leaves and new growth within a couple of weeks. If it doesn’t, be sure to get a replacement. Barbados cherry makes a nice potted specimen, and I’ve never eaten the fruit, but it’s supposed to be tart and tasty.
To learn more about this South Texas native tree/shrub, check out this webpage from the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. Barbados cherry is a great wildlife plant because its delicate pink flowers feed butterflies and edible fruits feed songbirds.
“How to keep aphids away each gardening season without chemicals?” Question from Steven of New England
Answer: Aphids are delicate pests and quite easy to manage, believe it or not. When I have an infestation, I use these four pesticide-free methods of removal.
1. Spray them off with a sharp stream from your hose. This actually removes them fast and will kill quite a few. It’s a good first step for management.
2. Prune off really badly infested flowers or stems and place them in soapy water. This will remove damaged parts of the plant and greatly reduce aphid populations.
3. Spray plants with OMRI Listed insecticidal soap to tackle any lingering aphids. This mild product is approved for organic gardening and will kill aphids fast. If you are worried about it harming other insects, you can rinse off plants a few hours after application.
4. Nurture ladybugs, and other beneficial insects that comsume aphids, in your garden. Refrain from using any harsh pesticides, and the beneficials will come. (Click here to read more about beneficial insects.)
I hope these tips help you better manage your aphid problems. They are annoying insects, but they won’t stand a chance if you continue with these methods.
“I have a beautiful pink rose bush, but the flowers are starting to look like they are dying as soon as they open. What can I do?” Question from April of Dresden, Tennessee
Answer: I bet you have had a cool, wet spring because this is when rosebud problems appear. Climatic changes can roses to turn brown on the stem, but fungal disease is the most common cause. In general, the common name for this phenomena is called rose balling.
Climatic Causes for Rose Balling
If your flower buds looked normal, but then developed dry, papery outer petals and healthy looking inner petals, the cause could be due to a physiological response to weather changes. When weather is rainy and cool and then is quickly followed by hot, sunny weather, the water-saturated outer petals can fuse to one another and dry on the outside–disabling the flowers from opening normally.
Fungal Causes for Rose Balling
Fungal rose browning/rot is caused by Botrytis Blight (Botrytis cinerea). In most severe cases, the buds will turn brown before opening. You may even see signs of grey mold on them. In less severe circumstances, the flowers will open with brown petals or brown patches on the petals. This is most likely your problem, especially if your weather has been consistently cool and moist and you see signs of mold.
Managing Botrytis Blight in Roses
Here are three easy, all-natural steps to managing botrytis blight in roses.
Remove all dead or dying flower buds, being sure to remove all the brown parts. This will reduce the spread of the disease. Be sure to sterilize your pruners after cutting any diseased plants. Dipping them in a 10% bleach solution works.
Increase airflow via pruning. Dense bushes with too much foliage can encourage fungal disease by discouraging air flow. By selectively removing overgrown branches or young suckers, you can really reduce fungal disease problems on your roses.
Use liquid copper fungicide sprays, which are OMRI Listed for organic gardening. These are safe to use and will help prevent further rosebud attacks.
Chiles, ginger, lemongrass, curry leaf, and other traditional herbs and spices can be grown at home. (Citrus can even be grown at home.)
American gardeners can grow many Indian herbs and spices. Sure, the classic spice blends of India contain tropical ingredients (cardamom, star anise, nutmeg, cinnamon, etc.) that most American gardeners cannot grow, but it does not end there. A long list of distinctly Indian culinary herbs and spices grow well in most areas of the United States.
You don’t need a greenhouse or conservatory for these essential Indian herbs (leafy aromatics for cooking) and spices (culinary seeds, fruits, roots, bark, and stems). All are easy-to-grow herbaceous annuals and tender perennials. Here are 10 options to consider for this year’s kitchen garden.
Annual Indian Herbs and Spices
Indian naan bread is often sprinkled with black cumin.Black cumin flower
Black Cumin (Nigella sativa, 6-12 inches): Unlike the common violet-blue garden flower love-in-a-mist (Nigella damescena), the flowers of black cumin have much more sharp, prominent pistils and anthers. Their large, bulbous, spiky seed pods are filled with loads of black seeds that have an oniony, peppery flavor. These are toasted and added to anything from garam masalas to breads and yogurt lassis. As with any nigella, black cumin self-sows prolifically. It is fast to bloom, set seed, and die, so plant it among other herbs that look good through summer. Sometimes black cumin will even flower and set seed for a second harvest in fall.
Coriander
Cilantro/Coriander (Coriandrum sativum, 18-24 inches): The flavorful leaves of cilantro add a fresh flavor to Indian dishes and are used in chutneys, meats, and vegetable dishes. Its heads of round seeds dry by summer for harvest and are ground to make the spice, coriander. Coriander has a complex, earthy flavor and is used as a main ingredient in garam masala spice mixes.
Cilantro is a cool-season plant that grows best in spring or fall. Its frilly white flowers set round seed heads that readily self-sow, so don’t be afraid to sprinkle some of its seeds on the ground after it has bolted.
Cumin seed
Cumin (Cuminum cyminum, 12-15 inches): Both the leaves and seeds of cumin are edible. This warm-season, drought-tolerant annual has feathery, aromatic leaves that can be eaten in salads. Its delicate Queen-Anne’s-lace blooms set seed followed by heads of cumin seeds that must be fully dry before collection. (Give the plants at least three months to produce seed.) Ground cumin is a common component of garam masala, lentil dishes, and the seeds can be used to flavor breads.
Fenugreek leaves and seed
Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum, 2-3 feet ) Used as an herb and spice, fenugreek is a member of the pea family that produces edible leaves and seeds. The leaves have a nutty, maple syrup taste and are added to curries, and the sprouts are added to salads. Its summer-blooming, yellow, pea-like flowers are followed by long pods filled with yellowish seeds. Once dried, they have a similar but stronger flavor and are used for pickling.
Mustard Seed (Brassica juncea): Any strong-tasting mustard green will yield yellow mustard seed. Gather the spring leaves for cooking and salads, and then let them bolt when the summer heat hits. The pretty golden flowers rise above the foliage and produce long seed capsules filled with round, golden mustard seeds. Harvest the seed after the plants have dried naturally.
Mustard flowers with seeds
Red Chili (Capsicum spp.) The hottest chilies in the world originate from India, so grow those that are dangerously hot with caution. Keep them away from young children and pets, and wear gloves when harvesting. One plant will produce a wealth of peppers for fresh eating or drying. Two Indian cultivars to try include ‘Dhanraj’ (2 to 3 feet, 5,000 SHU), which produces clusters of slender, upright peppers that turn from green to red, and ‘Bengal Naga’ (3 to 4 feet, 980,000 SHU), which has sweet, raging hot peppers that are broader, bumpy, and turn from green to orange-red.
Drying chiles
All of these annuals grow best in full sun, require moderate moisture, and prefer fertile soil with excellent drainage. If you plan to grow them in containers, try Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix. It is OMRI Listed for organic gardening and will yield great results. Those planted in the herb garden will get a boost from Black Gold Garden Soil, which has added fertilizer for vigorous growth.
Some of the seed spices can be challenging to collect. I like to shake or pick apart the dried seed heads into a plastic bag. To further separate the seed from the chaff, use a fine sieve. (Click here to learn more about harvesting and drying edible seed.)
Tender Perennial Indian Herbs and Spices
Holy basil
Holy Basil (Ocimum tenuiflorum, 1-2 feet): There are several cultivated types of holy basil. The two most common are the sweet, green Ram Tulsi, and purple-leaved Krishna Tulsi, which has a distinctive peppery flavor. Holy basil leaves are used to make fragrant teas, soups, or desserts. It is also used for medicinal tinctures.
Ginger (Zingiber officinale, 2-4 feet): Ginger is one of the easiest spices to grow in pots, indoors or outdoors. It’s distinctive, flavorful roots can be harvested bit-by-bit from the pot and used fresh or dried and ground into a powder. It is a common ingredient for flavoring meats, soups, and vegetable dishes.
In temperate areas, ginger can be grown in pots and summered outdoors and overwintered indoors. Choose a large pot that can hold its bulky rhizomes and the height of its tall, upright leaves. The attractive plants bloom seasonally with upright clusters of pinkish red flowers. (Click here to learn more about how to cultivate ginger in pots.)
Turmeric
Turmeric (Curcuma longa, 3-4 feet): This close relative of ginger can be grown in pots just as you would grow ginger, except it requires more water. Its deep golden-orange roots are easily harvested. Just dig and remove a portion of the plant, leaving plenty to grow anew for continued harvest. They can be used fresh or dried to yield deep yellow turmeric powder, which lends curries their distinctive color. The pungent flavor of turmeric is reminiscent of bitter orange and ginger, and the fresh roots taste stronger.
Lemon Grass (Cymbopogon citratus, 3-4 feet): Lemon grass is commonly used in Southeast Asian food, but it is also popular in India. This tall, aromatic grass forms a huge, healthy clump in just one season when planted in a container or in the garden. The tender, citrusy leaf bases are easily harvested with pruning shears. (Watch the video below to learn how to harvest lemon grass properly.) Lemon grass can be used fresh to flavor to broth and meats or dried and ground into a powder to add to curries.
One benefit of lemon grass is that it grows beautifully in moist or wet soils. Potted specimens require very large containers and should be planted in a moisture-holding potting mix, such as Black Gold Waterhold Cocoblend Potting Mix, which is approved for organic gardening.
As with the annuals, all of these perennials grow well in full sun, though ginger and turmeric will withstand partial sun. All grow well in the summer heat.
A garden filled with these Indian herbs and spices will provide a fragrant, beautiful garden that will look good and let you create your own fresh Indian dishes. Many can also be harvested and preserved for winter use. (Click here to learn more about harvesting and storing herbs.)
Fresh lettuce from the garden tastes so much better than anything you can buy. Here are 10 of the best lettuce varieties for home growing. Many are bolt and disease-resistant heirlooms that stay crisp and sweet, even in the summer heat.
“I’ve tried and tried to find the ID of these beautiful flowers. Any help would be appreciated.” Question from Pamela of Conroe, Texas
Answer: This beautiful, unique bulb is Mediterranean Bells Allium (Nectaroscordum siculum (aka. Allium siculum)). It is native to Southwest Europe and Turkey where it grows in sun-dotted woods, though it also grows beautifully in full sun. It makes an excellent cut flower, so take advantage of the long stems. Its clusters of maroon and green bell-shaped flowers bloom in late spring. I have found that they look good interplanted with columbine, Amsonia, and oriental poppies. If you plan to plant more, be sure to fortify the soil with Black Gold Garden Soil and bonemeal for bulbs.
“Are there any companion plants to help strawberries grow and produce better? Or to keep bugs away from them?” Question from Amber of West Plains, Missouri
Answer: The true effectiveness of companion plants to ward off pests is argued. That’s because insect pests can detect their host plants from great distances, and/or they overwinter near host plants from year to year. So, if your strawberries are not covered with a deterring companion plant, there is a good chance they will not be protected. Either way, there are some strong-smelling plants that may be helpful, while also bringing herbal and floral benefits to your strawberry patch and garden. Just be sure that you don’t plant tall plants too close to your strawberries. You do not want them competing for sunlight! And, don’t forget to amend your beds with Black Gold Garden Compost Blend, which is OMRI Listed for organic gardening.
Marigolds: Plant small French marigold varieties around your strawberries–the prettier the better.
Basil: I like mini bush basil. Plant them alongside your strawberries and harvest as needed. The two even taste great together.
Rosemary: Shorter or trailing rosemaries may also provide some benefit.
Sage: The strong leaves of sage ward off certain insects and may benefit your strawberries.
Thyme: Most any thyme variety would be the perfect complement to your strawberries. I would recommend lemon thyme, which is believed to deter more insect pests.
As far as helping strawberries grow better, legumes provide the soil with added nitrogen, which may help strawberries develop more lush foliage. Click here to read more about garden legumes.
“We moved to Jasper, TX from Jefferson City, MO and I am having trouble getting my favorite bulbs, daffodils, to grow. What suggestions might you have?” Question from Betsy of Jasper, Texas
Answer: You moved from a USDA Hardiness Zone 6 location to a USDA Hardiness Zone 8 location. Many daffodils will not grow well in Zone 8 because they need chillier winters to complete their flowering cycle. Thankfully, there are some that will grow very well in your region. Choose from this list of varieties, and you should have daffodil success! Many of these are Tazetta-type Narcissus.
Daffodil ‘Avalanche’: This fragrant daffodil produces clusters of ivory flowers with small yellow cups and blooms from early to mid spring.
Daffodil ‘Carlton’: Prolific golden yellow flowers are produced by this daffodil in early spring
Daffodil ‘Erlicheer’: This unique variety produces fully double flowers of ivory and palest yellow in early to mid spring.
Daffodil ‘Falconette’: This early spring bloomer bears fantastic clusters of yellow blooms with dark-orange coronas.
Daffodil ‘Texas Star’: This delicate daffodil produces tiny yellow blossoms in early spring.
There are many other southern Narcissus and daffodil varieties to add to these. I suggest doing your bulb shopping at Brent & Becky’s Bulbs or The Southern Bulb Company. Both list preferred zones for their flowers.
