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Feeding Common Winter Songbirds Naturally

A flurry of wings. A shower of seeds. Bird feeders are lively places in the winter months, and their presence is important. Natural food sources are rarer because fields and forests have been replaced by buildings and lawns, so feeders help fill a food void. But, if you have a sizable yard, you may also consider planting for birds. Many cold-season plants for winter songbirds are easy to grow and let birds feed more naturally.

Favorite Winter Birds

There are lots of common birds in North America that stick around during winter. Many of these are colorful favorites that evoke a winter feeling. Each has a unique lifestyle and story to tell. Here are ten favorites you will likely see outdoors this season, followed by some of their favorite grasses, flowers, shrubs, and trees for winter food.

  1. The Northern Cardinal

Probably the most well-known and beloved of all American winter birds, the northern cardinal inhabits much of North America, from Quebec, Canada all the way down to Central America. The male birds have bright red plumage, black faces, orange beaks, and cheery red crests on their heads. The brownish-red females are less colorful, which makes them less conspicuous while nesting. Cardinals favor shrubby, forested areas and eat seeds and fruits in winter, with a supplement of insects in the summer months. Their call is a clear or trilled whistle.

Favorite Winter Foods from Plants: Dogwood fruits (Cornus florida), pearl millet (Pennisetum glaucum), sumac fruits (Rhus glabra), tulip-tree fruits (Liriodendron tulipifera), purple coneflower seeds (Echinacea purpurea), dry corn, sunflower seeds (Helianthus spp.).

  1. Blue Jay

This relatively large crow relative has distinctive blue, white, and black markings and a blue head crest. Blue jays naturally exist on forest edges and wooded city areas across eastern North America. They are adaptable, somewhat aggressive birds with varied, sharp, “Craw!” calls. (Sometimes they even mimic hawk calls to frighten other birds!) The ground-foraging birds have a varied diet, eating everything from small mice to grains, seeds, and insects, but in the winter, they rely mostly on a diet of seeds.

Favorite Winter Foods from Plants: Sunflower seeds, grains, grass seeds, beechnuts (Fagus spp.), and acorns from most oak (Quercus spp.) trees.

  1. Cedar Waxwing

The beautiful cedar waxwing is a master flyer capable of aeronautic turns in the sky. Its plumage is tawny brown on the top and pale yellow on the belly. The crested birds have red markings on their wingtips and yellow markings on their tail tips. These woodland natives like treed neighborhoods and can be found from northernmost South America up to Canada. Cedar waxwings don’t visit feeders but primarily eat fruit and enjoy overripe berries on winter shrubs. Their call is a high-pitched, trilling whistle.

Favorite Winter Foods from Plants: Cedar fruits (Juniperus spp.), Hawthorns fruits (Crataegus spp.), Crabapples (Malus spp.), Holly berries (Ilex spp.), Rosehips (Rosa spp.), and Viburnum fruits (Viburnum spp.).

  1. American Goldfinch

Gold plumage with black markings makes these birds nearly impossible to misidentify. Finches of all types are small, seed-eating birds that always frequent feeders. The American goldfinch exists across much of North America and northern Mexico, where it favors open fields, parks, and lowlands–anywhere where thistles, asters, and sunflowers are common. Their chirpy, melodic song patterns are variable but distinctive. Females have lighter yellow bellies but otherwise look like males.

Favorite Winter Foods from Plants: Composite seed heads such as sunflower seeds (Helianthus spp.), coneflower seeds (Echinacea spp.), black-eyed-Susan Seeds (Rudbeckia spp.), aster seeds (Symphyotrichum spp.), Joe-Pye-weed seeds (Eutrochium spp.)

  1. Tufted Titmouse

A small, silvery gray bird, the tufted titmouse has a smart little tufted head crest, a whitish belly, and equal or rusty patches flanking the wings. It can be found only in the eastern United States and adjacent Canada where it exists in lower elevation forests and wooded neighborhoods. Its varied diet consists of insects, nuts, seeds, and small fruits. This species nests in tree holes and feeds in tree canopies and on field plants for winter food. Sometimes they use their fast, repetitive whistling calls to rally in groups and attack threatening predators, like hawks!

Favorite Winter Foods from Plants: Berries as well as seeds and nuts, including acorns, beechnuts, and evergreen cones.

  1. Downy Woodpecker

One of the most common and adaptable of the woodpeckers, downy woodpeckers are relatively small birds easily distinguished by their black and white checkered wings, white backs, and black-striped heads patched with red. They reside across the whole of North America, from Alaska to Florida, where they live in open woodlands, scrubby areas, and wooded neighborhoods. The insect-eaters rely on suet at winter feeders but will also eat seeds and berries. They make a loud, percussive “rat-a-tat-tat” when pecking trees and have a shrill, whinnying call.

Favorite Winter Foods from Plants: Sunflower seeds, berries, acorns, and grains.

  1. Nuthatch

Long beaks, attractive gray, black, and white markings, and white bellies are the key identifiers of the white-bellied nuthatch. Native to much of North America, these forest-dwelling birds survive on a diet of insects, nuts, and seeds. Their long, strong, silvery beaks can easily wedge open nuts. The loud call of the nuthatch hammers on with a rapid “wha-wha-wha”.

Favorite Winter Foods from Plants: Sunflower seeds and nuts, such as acorns (Quercus spp.), beechnuts, hazelnuts, hickory nuts (Carya spp.), and walnuts (Juglans spp.).

  1. Mourning Dove

Ground-foraging mourning doves are smooth tawny gray with flecks of black on their wings. The common North American birds mate for life and are often seen in pairs. They are very prevalent in open wooded areas, fields, and yards where they can be seen scouring the ground and low-lying plants for seeds and nuts. 99% of their diet is made up of seeds. They emit mournful coos and nest in trees.

Favorite Winter Foods from Plants: Seeds from wild and cultivated grasses, amaranth (Amaranthus spp.), sweetgum seeds (Liquidambar styriciflua), weed seeds, and sometimes berries.

  1. Carolina Wren

In fall, you can hear the “tea party, tea party, tea party” songs of defensive Carolina wrens staking out their winter territories. Existing across the eastern United States down into adjacent Mexico, these small birds have cinnamon-brown plumage and perky tails that stick upwards. They like dense vines and bushes where they can forage on insects and small vertebrates. In the winter, they switch to a diet of fruits and seeds.

Favorite Winter Foods from Plants: Seeds from bayberry (Morella pensylvanica), sweetgum (Liquidambar styriciflua), and poison ivy (This is not a reason to keep poison ivy in the yard!).

  1. Black-Capped Chickadee

A common bird across northern North America, the black-capped chickadee is a small bird with a distinctive black cap and chin, gray and white wings, buffy tan body, and little beak. It inhabits shrubby forests and wooded neighborhoods where it forages for insects, seeds, and nuts. Spiders are also a favorite treat! The males do most of the singing with a high-pitched, two to three-note “fee-bee” whistle.

Favorite Winter Foods from Plants: Sumac (Rhus spp.), honeysuckle fruits (Lonicera spp.), hemlock seeds (Tsuga spp.), bayberry fruits, and sunflower seeds.

A Winter Bird Garden

Lots of fruits and nuts found on garden flowers, trees, and shrubs will feed birds through winter. Planting for birds has become more and more popular. Winterberries, juniper berries, bayberries, hawthorn berries, sunflowers, purple coneflowers, and asters are just a few easy landscape and garden plants birds love. One way to understand how to create a designer garden for wildlife is through the National Audubon Society’s backyard conservation resources. They offer native plant lists for birds and other wildlife to teach gardeners how to turn their yards into bird havens.

Winter Bird Food Table

Most ardent bird feeding folk like to supply a diversity of food types to attract different bird species. Many birds require the addition of suet in their winter diets, as well as nuts and fruits. This table makes it easy to plan a feeding garden for these birds.

Table 1: Favorite winter bird foods

Bird Millet Cracked Corn Sunflower Seed Wild Fruits Thistle Seed Suet
American Goldfinch X X X X
Blue Jay X X X
Cardinal X X X
Carolina Wren X X
Cedar Waxwing X
Chickadee X X X
Downy Woodpecker X
Mourning Dove X X X X
Nuthatch X X X X
Tufted Titmouse X X X

Providing Winter Bird Cover

Birds have all kinds of tricks up their wings when it comes to handling the cold. Dense down feathers line their bodies to store heat, they eat a lot to put on fat reserves and burn energy, and they seek all kinds of protective shelter from the harsh winter weather.

Tall plant cover, in fields and byways, creates dense shelter for many birds, but large uncut perennial gardens and shrub borders can give them comparable protection. Other winter birds nest in tree holes, while others may even seek refuge under the warm eaves of buildings. Dedicated winter birders may even put up protective roosting boxes to give their birds shelter in winter.

To learn more about birds in your yard visit Cornell University’s All About Birds page, and join their Project Feeder Watch to provide data about the birds in your yard.

Help! I Have Fungus Gnats

I’ve been using your organic potting soil for both outdoor and indoor planting for the past 8 months.  Over the past 3 months, my house has been inundated by fungus gnats.  I have tried everything written in the literature to get rid of them.  Yesterday, I ran out of your potting soil and began researching potting soil on the web.  While still recommended, I read that many consumers of your product complain of gnats.  What should I do?  What can you do?  Please help. Question from Marilyn or Colorado

Answer: Every top manufacturer of potting soils get fungus gnat complaints. Fungus gnat infestation and management is a cultural matter and not soil dependent. This is because fungus gnats are everywhere soil, algae, fungus and plant material can be found. Once plants are brought indoors, gnat populations explode because most gardeners don’t understand how to stop them or how they enter the home.

Fungus-Gnat-Free Manufacturing

Black Gold bagged growing media is manufactured at production facilities under conditions unfavorable to the growth and reproduction of fungus gnats, fungi, and algae. Why? Our mix and manufacturing facility conditions include:

  1. The use of high-quality Sphagnum peat moss, which is too dry to be conducive for fungus gnat reproduction and algal/fungal growth
  2. Mix components with low pH levels and nitrogen availability, which prohibit gnat/algal/fungal growth
  3. Mix compost from piles too hot and dry for fungus gnat reproduction and algal/fungal growth
  4. Thick, well-sealed bags to maintain mix integrity

Fungus gnats can enter any opened or damaged bag of potting soil or amendment, so keep opened bags well sealed and dry after opening and never buy any bagged soils with open ends or tears! Once you have these gnats, they are pretty easy to manage, if you know what to do.

Managing Fungus Gnats

All potting soils must contain organic matter, be porous, and hold water well for effective root growth; any soil that’s moist and high in organic matter will attract fungus gnats. But, don’t despair! Follow the simple cultural guidelines in this video, and you can easily stop fungus gnats from breeding in your plant pots.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

When Will My Lemon Tree Set Fruit?

“I have a lemon tree that’s five, or six, years old. I was wondering how old they have to be to produce fruit, and if there has to be two of them, or is cross-pollination not necessary?” Question from Royce of Texas

Answer: A lemon tree should be fruitful by five years of age. Most lemons are self-fruitful and do not require cross-pollination, but they do require bright sunlight and good care to flowering and fruiting. Has your tree begun to flower? If so, give it good care and it should begin fruiting for you. For care instructions, I recommend you read our article titled Growing Lemons, Oranges and Other Citrus Indoors (click here to view the article). It will give you all the information you need to encourage your indoor lemon to fruit.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Can You Suggest Native Winter Shrubs that Feed Birds?

American cranberrybush (Viburnum opulus var. americanum) is one of several great native shrubs for birds.

“What native bushes (VA) can I plant that will provide winter food for wild birds?” Question from Dagmar of Virginia

Answer: The fruits and nuts of many Mid-Atlantic native shrubs feed birds in winter. Here are some of the best shrubs with fruits and nuts for winter birds.

Native American Shrubs with Fruits for Birds.

Some of the best red-fruited shrubs for birds are winterberry (Ilex verticillata), American cranberrybush (Viburnum opulus var. americanum), and chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia). The pretty witherod (Viburnum nudum) has berries that turn from bright pink to blueish-purple, and arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum) has deep-blue berries. The vivid purple fruits of American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) are also lovely and loved by birds. These highly landscape-worthy native shrubs have beautiful winter fruits coveted by many songbirds.

Native American Shrubs with Nuts for Birds.

A good nut-producing native shrub is the American hazelnut (Corylus americana). Plant this large shrub along the margins of any spacious garden or landscape. The edible hazelnuts they produce are just as tasty to homeowners as they are to birds and other wildlife. We also recommend planting sunflowers in the garden. Let their seedheads dry and winter birds will flock to them. (Click here to learn more about nuts for edible landscaping.)

Check out your local garden center for varieties of these shrubs. Most cultivated forms have even more fruits than wild types. Expect the berries to persist from early to midwinter, so you can appreciate their landscape color and wildlife value.

Happy winter gardening!

Jessie Keith

Help! My Peace Lily Leaves are Dying Back

“I have some large peace lilies that the leaves sprout up like crazy but then start to turn completely brown, they are been doing this for over a year. What is causing this?” Question from Mary of Huntington, West Virginia
Answer: Several problems may be at play regarding your peace lily (Spathiphyllum spp.). Over watering, under watering, planting too deep, and fungal diseases can all cause leaf decline in newly emerging foliage or existing foliage. So, let’s start with what these plants need to grow well.

1. Bright, filtered sunlight or partial shade (never direct sunlight);

2. Lightly moist, well-drained soil (never wet soil);

3. Soil that is allowed to dry between watering;

4. High humidity;

5. Warmth (temperature between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (18-26 degrees Centigrade).

Here are factors that can cause decline and eventual plant death:

1. Over watering;

2. Deeply planted plants;

3. The fungal diseases Cylindrocladium spathiphylli and Phytophthora parasitica, which both cause foliar decline and root rot disease (both are encouraged by over watering and deep planting).

4. Under watering

I recommend starting fresh and repotting your plant. Start by removing your peace lily from its current pot and discard the old planting mix. Next, remove any dead or dying leaf or root tissue. Clean the planting pot in hot, soapy water and refill it with fresh potting mix (Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix or Black Gold Natural & Organic Potting Mix are great choices). When replanting, make sure your peace lily’s upper roots are close to the surface. Then water it well and place it in a location with bright, indirect light. Allow the soil to dry quite well between watering.

I hope these recommendations help!

Happy indoor gardening,

 

Jessie Keith

I Need a Subtropical Groundcover for Partial Sun

 

“What would be a good ground cover for a small area in the garden with partial sun for Zone 11a?” Question from Susan of Pembroke Pines, Florida.

Answer: There are many lovely subtropical groundcover plants for partial sun that are easily grown in smaller areas. I’ll supply both native and non-native options.

Non-Native Subtropical Groundcovers

Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior): This tough evergreen groundcover is hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 7b-11a.

Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus):  Grassy, evergreen mondo grass is very tidy, low-growing, and thrives in partial sun.

Fan Flower (Scaevola aemula): Fan-like blue flowers and semi-succulent green leaves make this a perfect perennial groundcover for those living zones 10-11.

Moses-in-the-Cradle (Tradescantia spathacea): Semi-succulent purple and green leaves and a spreading habit make this an excellent groundcover for tough growing areas. It is also easily pruned back.

Native Subtropical Groundcovers

Baby Rubber Plant (Peperomia obtusifolia): The glossy evergreen leaves of this southern Florida native are always pretty. Look for variegated varieties. This groundcover is hardy to zones 10-12.

Frogfruit (Phylnodiflora nodiflora): This low, succulent verbena relative tolerates partial sun, has lovely clusters of lavender flowers, and feeds butterflies (see image above). I highly recommend it!

I hope these tips help!

Happy Gardening,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold horticulturist

When Should I Cut Back My Ornamental Grasses?

“I have lots of ornamental grasses in my garden. When is the best time to cut them back?” Question from Mary of Raleigh, North Carolina

Answer: Tall ornamental grasses, like Chinese silver grass (Miscanthis sinensis) and switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) provide food and cover for many birds and other wildlife. Their dry blades and seedheads also tend to look pretty through the winter months. So, the best time to cut them back is in spring when your bulbs just begin to peak up from the soil. Take some sharp shears, wear protective gloves, and cut them back to about 8-12 inches from the ground. I suggest composting them. The tops quickly break down in the compost heap, especially if you cut them up into smaller pieces and keep them moist.

Many smaller bunch grasses, like blue fescue (Festuca glauca) and prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis), do not require cutting back, while mid-sized bunch grasses, like fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides) do.

Make sure you rake away all remnant grassy blades to keep your beds looking tidy!

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

Help! My Gardenia Bonsai is Dying!

“I have a flowering bonsai tree that last year got leaves on all of it.  It is still in the pot, I have not planted it outside as I live in an apartment.  I normally set it outside in summer and bring it inside during the winter. However, right now I am wondering if the one side of the tree is dead, as no leaves are coming on it, and one side has brand new green leaves emerging.  It currently is inside as it’s winter here.  Should I prune it to just the one side main branch where the leaves are starting? Or wait until Spring to see what happens?” Question from Amy of Madison, Wisconsin

Answer: It appears that several of your gardenia’s branches are dead. To test this, feel the twigs and buds, and do some test scratches to look for green living tissue under the bark. If the twigs and buds are dry and brittle, they are likely dead. If a scratch test shows no living green color beneath the bark, they are dead and need to be pruned off to the point of living tissue. Prune off only dead branches. Living branches should not be pruned in winter but should be pruned right after plants flower, later in the season.

Gardenias go through a sort of semi-dormancy in winter, so they need special care. There several things that could be causing your gardenia bonsai stress, so let’s cover what indoor gardenias need to overwinter in good health.

  1. High humidity: Keeping the pebble tray below the plant hydrated should provide adequate humidity. Humidifiers are also helpful. Also, keep plants away from drying heating vents
  2. Cool night temperatures: Gardenias prefer cool night temperatures between 55 to 60 degrees F in winter and day temperatures up to 65-70 degrees F.
  3. Bright filtered sunlight: Turn the plant weekly if it only gets bright sun on one side.
  4. Lower water: In winter, allow the plants to dry between watering. The surface soil should be dry down to at least 2 inches before you water again. Saturated soil can cause root rot and plant death, especially in the winter months. (At replanting time, consider a well-drained potting mix like Black Gold All Purpose Potting Mix.)
  5. No fertilizer: Do not fertilize plants in winter because they are not actively growing.
  6. Check plants for pests: Spider mites and white flies are two common pests that attack leaves–causing plant stress and leaf drop. Check beneath the leaves for little black specks (spider mites) or tiny white-winged flies. If you see them, clean beneath the leaves with a damp cloth and spray plants with insecticidal soap.

Follow these steps and the living portion of your plant should snap back. Keep me posted on its progress!

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold horticulturist

 

How Do I Root Begonia Cuttings?

“How do you “root” begonias?” Question from Judy of Louisville, Mississippi

Answer: Good timing! I root begonia cuttings from my favorite begonia to give to friends, and they just rooted (see photo)! You will be glad to learn that they are one of the easiest plants to root. There are two ways to do it–the easy way and the surefire way. I choose the easy way, which usually works for most begonias. (See the video below for the surefire way!)

The easy method involves few tools. You just need some sharp shears, a begonia, and a glass of clean water. Take healthy, actively growing tip cuttings of about 4-5 inches from your begonia. (Tip cuttings are taken from the branch tips where new growth appears.) Place cuttings in a glass of fresh water, and keep the water clean and the glass replenished. In about two weeks, your cuttings should start to root. Once cuttings have substantial roots of 1-2 inches, you can plant them in potting mix. I suggest planting them in a rich, porous potting mix like Black Gold All Purpose Mix. The process is a snap!

Faster, surefire rooting will happen if you use the method in the video below, but for begonias it is not always necessary.

Happy begonia growing,

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist

 

Can I Overwinter My False Cypress in Pots?

Image by Jessie Keith

“I bought 10 Lemon Threadbranch Cypress shrubs and didn’t get them planted.  How can I overwinter them in zone 7 so I don’t lose them?” Question from Marilynn of Wilmington, Delaware

Answer: You are in luck! Lemon thread false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Lemon Thread’) shrubs are very hardy, surviving up to USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. They should be able to withstand your Mid-Atlantic winter in pots with no problem. If you want to give them a little extra protection, place them against a garage or building. Just be sure they get natural snow and rain, so the pots don’t get too dry.

If you have a spell of warm, dry winter weather, feel free to get them into the ground. (Amending the soil with Black Gold Garden Compost Blend will help them establish more quickly.) Otherwise, you can plant them in early spring, as soon as the soil is warm enough to dig.

Happy gardening!

Jessie Keith

Black Gold Horticulturist